
JOHN COLTER, THE DISCOVERER OF YELLOWSTONE PARK. 



Si ^uine to clie i^ational parfefl; 

YOUR 
NATIONAL PARKS 

BY 

ENDS A. MILLS 

WITH DETAILED INFORMATION 

FOR TOURISTS 

BY 

LAURENCE F. SCHMECKEBIER 
j^f)J with Illustrations and Maps 




BOSTON AND NEW YORK 

HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY 

Abe Watxi\t\t T^xtii Cambcibge 

1917 






COPYRIGHT, I917, BY ENOS A. MILLS 
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 

Published June tqiy 



X.^o 



V\\\ m H 1917 



'C!,A467305 



TO 

GEORGE W. PERKINS 

AND 

WILLIAM A. WELCH 

WHOSE STATESMANSHIP, ENERGY, IDEALS, AND COURAGE 

ARE MAKING THE PALISADES INTER-STATE PARK 

"THE GREATEST PARK IN THE WORLD'' 



PREFACE 

St. Louis had a memorable "flag day" 
a little more than a century ago. Within 
twenty-four hours the yellow and red flag 
of Spain was run down and the tricolor run 
up; this hauled down and the Stars and 
Stripes run up. The Louisiana Territory 
thus became a part of the United States. 
In a flash, the western boundary of this 
country was changed from the Mississippi 
River to the Rocky Mountains. 

Scarcely were the Stars and Stripes fly- 
ing, before Lewis and Clark were on their 
way to explore the vast and mysterious 
Louisiana Territory — the West. Theirs 
was one of the most comprehensive and 
successful exploring expeditions on record 
— one of the greatest of outdoor expedi- 
tions. There were adventures and hard- 
ships, but after two years the party re- 
turned to civilization with the loss of only 
vii 



one man. The resources of the great West 
were definitely placed before the world. 

This expedition revealed the extraordi- 
nary resourcefulness of Lewis and Clark and 
brought out also two other characters who 
are worthy of a place in American litera- 
ture and whose achievements might well be 
a source of inspiration in American life. 
These are John Colter, who afterwards dis- 
covered the Yellowstone, and Sacagawea, 
the " bird woman." Sacagawea was the one 
woman of the Lewis and Clark expedition. 
She rendered remarkable service, and her 
name will be forever associated with explo- 
ration, with woodcraft, and with the 
National-Park wildernesses. 

Just before the returning Lewis and 
Clark expedition reached St. Louis, it met 
trappers starting up the river — going into 
the great West. This was the real begin- 
ning of the trapping industry, which for 
nearly two generations was the dominating 
influence of the West. 

The West was thoroughly explored by 
viii 



preface 

the trappers. In a number of States they 
formed the first permanent settlement. 
The trappers harvested the furs of lakes 
and streams throughout the mountains 
and built up the "Commerce of the Prai- 
ries." We are indebted to them for the 
Oregon and Santa Fe trails. All history 
shows no more picturesque or resourceful 
character than the trapper. Among them 
were such great men as John Colter, James 
Bridger, and Kit Carson. 

The trapper was followed by the pros- 
pector. The trapper did not search for 
gold. The prospector did not look for furs 
or fertile lands. In a different way the 
prospector exploited the same territory as 
the trapper and thus placed the resources 
and the romance of the West before the 
public. 

Closely following the trapper and pros- 
pector was that rugged and aggressive 
character, the cowboy. He had a definite 
part in the forward movement of the fron- 
tier. The cowboy cared nothing for furs, or 
ix 



preface 

gold, or fertile lands. He was interested in 
the rich grasses for his cattle. He, too, had 
his short day. These characters — the cow- 
boy, the prospector, and the trapper — 
tarried for a brief moment on the frontier 
when the farmer, the first lasting settler, 
arrived. All these armed and vigorous peo- 
ple, the wearers of buckskin, were people 
of individuality and power. They made 
great changes throughout the West, and 
hastened its final development. 

Pioneer men and women are among the 
great and influential figures in history. 
They were human, they were honorable, 
and we do honor them. They did not want 
or need sympathy. They were getting 
much, perhaps the most, from life; they 
were happy. We think of theirs as being a 
life of sacrifice, but it really was a life of 
selection. They were away from the crowd 
— from the enemies of sincerity and indi- 
viduality. Of all people they were most 
nearly free. But the pioneers are gone. 

The frontier no longer exists, and the 

X 



days of the wilderness are gone forever. 
Yet, in our magnificent National Parks we 
still have a bit of the primeval world and 
the spirit of the vigorous frontier. In these 
wild parks we may rebuild the past, and 
in them the trapper, the prospector, the 
cowboy, and the pioneer may act once 
more their part in the scenes that knew 
them. 

These wilderness empires of our National 
Parks have been snatched from leveling 
forces of development. They are likely to 
prove the richest, noblest heritage of the 
nation. Here the world is at play, here are 
scenes ever new and that will greatly help 
to keep the nation young. 

In the words of John Dickinson Sherman: 
"It is as if Nature in these places had 
in self-defense devoted all her energies to 
scenery, proclaiming to the nation, 'Here 
I will make playgrounds for the people. 
Here is nothing for commerce or industry. 
Here is natural beauty at its wildest and 
best. Elsewhere man must live by the 
xi 



preface 

sweat of his brow. Here let him rest and 
play. Here I will rule supreme for all 
time.'" 

There are seventeen National Parks. 
New ones will early be made and there are 
at least twenty other scenic regions which 
should at once be added. No nation has 
ever fallen for having too much scenery. 
Scenery is, indeed, one of our most valuable 
resources, and these Parks will enable us to 
build up a scenic industry of magnitude. 
Already they are being developed with 
roads and trails, and before long there 
will be in all of them hotels and camps 
for visitors of every taste, together with 
special camps and provision for school- 
children. 

I have tried to describe a few of the won- 
ders of the Parks and to suggest the larger, 
fuller use of them. Through most of the 
Parks described I have had happy excur- 
sions afoot, alone and unarmed. Not only 
do the Parks contain some of the world's 
sublimest and most beautiful scenes, but 
xii 



preface 

each Park is a wild-life reservation, a place 
where guns are forbidden. Thus protected, 
these wildernesses will remain forever wild, 
forever mysterious and primeval, holding 
for the visitor the spell of the outdoors, 
exciting the spirit of exploration. Within 
them will survive that poetic million-year- 
old highway, the trail. Among their path- 
less scenes wild life will be perpetuated. 
Chains of mountain-peaks will ever stand 
— "the silent caravan that never passes 
by, the caravan whose camel backs are 
laden with the sky" — with purple forests, 
mountain-high waterfalls, vast and broken 
canons, wind-swept plateaus, splendid lakes, 
and peaks and glaciers often touched with 
cloud and sunshine. 

Our National Parks will continue for 
generations to come to be the No Man's 
Land, the Undiscovered Country, the Mys- 
terious Old West, the Land of Romance 
and Adventure. My great hope and belief 
is that they will become a marked factor 
in public education. Surely, these wonder- 
xiii 



preface 

lands mean much for the general welfare, 
and will help to develop greater men and 
women — to arouse enthusiasm for our 
native land, and for nature everywhere. 

E. A. M. 



CONTENTS 

I. The Yellowstone National Park ... 3 

1. A Camp-Fire that made History . . 3 

2. The Discovery of the Yellowstone . 10 

3. The Geysers, Lakes, and Streams . . 28 

4. Ages of Fire and Ice 38 

5. The Petrified Forests 45 

6. Area; Trees, Flowers, and Animals . 51 

7. Entrances 53 

8. Administrative History 54 

9. Lost in the Wilderness 58 

II. The Yosemite National Park .... 65 

1. Ice-King Topography 70 

2. Trees and Forests 76 

3. Plant Life 79 

4. The Realm of Falling Water ... 83 

5. Seeing Yosemite 88 

6. History of Yosemite 93 

III. The Sequoia and the General Grant Na- 

tional Parks 99 

The Big Trees 104 

IV. Mount Rainier National Park . . .116 

1. The Splendid Wild-Flower Garden. . 122 

2. Glaciers of Mount Rainier .... 130 
V. Crater Lake National Park . . . .137 

VI. Glacier National Park 148 

History of Glacier National Park . .157 
XV 



Content^ef 

VII. Mesa Verde National Park . . . .161 
VIII. Rocky Mountain National Park . . .175 

IX. The Grand Canon 190 

X. Lassen Volcanic National Park . . .211 

XL Hawaii National Park 221 

XII. Three National Monuments 

1. The Olympic National Monuments . 230 

2. The Natural Bridges and Rainbow 

Bridge National Monuments . . 236 

3. Mukuntuweap National Monument . 239 

XIII. Other National Parks 242 

1. Wind Cave National Park . . . 242 

2. Sully's Hill Park 244 

3. Casa Grande Ruin Reservation . . 245 

4. Hot Springs Reservation .... 246 

5. Platt National Park 248 

6. Mount McKinley National Park . 248 

XIV. Canadian National Parks . . . .251 

1. Jasper Park 252 

2. Rocky Mountains Park .... 254 

3. YoHO Park 256 

4. Waterton Lakes Park 258 

5. Revelstoke Park 260 

6. The Animal Parks 260 

7. St. Lawrence Islands Park . . .261 

8. Fort Howe Park 262 

XV. Park-Development and New Parks . 264 

XVI. The Spirit of the Forest . . . .282 

XVII. Wild Life in National Parks . . .296 
xvi 



XVIII. In All Weathers 317 

XIX. The Scenery in the Sky .... 340 

1. TiMBER-LiNE 340 

2. Above the Timber-Line .... 345 

3. The Work of the Ice King . . .351 

4. High Peaks 356 

XX. John Muir 360 

XXI. National Parks the School of Na- 
ture 366 

XXII. Why We need National Parks . . 378 

XXIII. The Trail .388 

APPENDIX 

A. Act of Dedication of the Yellowstone 

National Park . . . . . . . 397 

B. The National Parks at a Glance . . 400 

C. Proposed National Parks 403 

D. National Monuments 405 

E. Dominion National Parks of Canada . .412 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 415 

GUIDE TO THE NATIONAL PARKS 

Introduction 425 

Yellowstone National Park 433 

Yosemite National Park 444 

Sequoia National Park 455 

General Grant National Park .... 459 
Mount Rainier National Park .... 460 

Crater Lake National Park 470 

Glacier National Park 475 

Mesa Verde National Park 488 

xvli 



€mttnt^ 

Rocky Mountain National Park . . . .491 

The Grand Canon 495 

Lassen Volcanic National Park .... 500 

Hawaii National Park 502 

Mount McKinley National Park . . .505 

Hot Springs of Arkansas 506 

Minor National Parks 

Casa Grande Ruin 508 

Wind Cave National Park 508 

Platt National Park 509 

Sully's Hill Park 509 

National Monuments 510 

Canadian Parks 

Rocky Mountains Park 5x5 

YoHO Park 516 

Glacier Park 517 

Jasper Park 518 

Revelstoke Park 518 

Waterton Lakes Park 519 

Buffalo Park 519 

Elk Island Park 520 

St. Lawrence Islands Park 520 

Fort Howe Park 520 

INDEX 521 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

John Colter, the Discoverer of Yellowstone 
Park Frontispiece 

From a drawing by E. S. Paxson 

Map showing Location of the National Parks 
AND National Monuments i 

Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone National 
Park 30 

From a photograph by George R. King 

Old Faithful Geyser, Yellowstone National 
Park 34 

From a photograph by Haynes, St. Paul, Minn. 

Grand Canon from Artist Point, Yellow- 
stone National Park 42 

From a copyright photograph by Haynes, St. Paul 

Petrified Forests in Amethyst Mountain, 
Yellowstone National Park .... 46 

Adapted from an illustration of the United States Geological Survey 

Bird's-Eye View of Yosemite Valley ... 66 
Half Dome, Yosemite 70 

From a photograph by George R. King 

Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls ... 84 

From a photograph by the Pillsbury Picture Company 

Lake Tenaya, Yosemite National Park . . 88 

From a photograph by the Desmond Company 

The Four Brothers, Sequoia National Park 104 

From a photograph by Lindley Eddy, Ranger, Cal. 

xix 



SFIIu^tratiouiei 



Stage Road, Mount Rainier National Park .118 

From a photograph by Curtis &• Miller, Seattle, Wash. 

Mount Rainier from Paradise Valley . . . 124 

From a photograph by Curtis fef Miller 

Crater Lake and Wizard Island .... 138 

From a photograph by the Kiser Studio 

Phantom Ship, Crater Lake 144 

By permission of the National Park Service 

McDermott Falls and Grinnell Mountain, 
Glacier National Park 150 

From a photograph by Haynes, St. Paul 

Spruce Tree House, Mesa Verde National Park 166 

From a photograph by Arthur Chapman 

Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National 
Park 176 

From a photograph by Enos A . Mills. 

Loch Vale, Rocky Mountain National Park 180 

From a photograph by W. T. Parke, Estes Park, Colo. 

Fern Lake, Rocky Mountain National Park 188 

From a photograph by H. T. Cowling 

Looking West from North Side of Grand 
Canon, showing Point Sublime and Isis 
Temple 192 

By permission of the Department of the Interior 

Lassen Peak in Eruption 214 

From a copyright photograph by B. F. Loomis 

Mount St. Helens from the Timber-Line Trail 
ON Mount Rainier 234 

From a photograph by A. H. Barnes 
XX 



^Fllujeftration^ 



Rainbow Natural Bridge, Rainbow National 
Monument 238 

From a photograph by the Geological Survey 

Illecillewaet Valley, with Mount Sir Don- 
ald in the Distance, Glacier Park, Canada 252 

From a photograph taken for the Commissioner of Dominion Parks 

Teton Mountain Region: Proposed Addition 
TO Yellowstone Park 266 

From a photograph by J. E. Stimson 

Mount Baker from the West 270 

From a copyright photograph by W. H. Wilcox, Port Townsend, 
Wash. 

Mount St. Elias from East Side of Agassiz 
Glacier, Alaska 274 

From a photograph by J. C. Russell 

On the Road to Sherman Tree, Giant Forest, 
Sequoia National Park 282 

From a photograph by George F. Belden 

Elk in Jackson Hole 296 

From a photograph by S. N. Leek 

Black Bear Cubs, Sequoia National Park . . 304 

From a photograph by Lindley Eddy 

Long's Peak, from Chasm Lake, Rocky Moun- 
tain National Park 320 

From a photograph by Enos A. Mills 

Above the Timber-Line in the Rocky Moun- 
tain National Park, showing Long's Peak . 346 

From a photograph by H. T. Cowling 

John Mum in Muir Woods 360 

From a photograph by Herbert W. Gleason 

Trail near Timber-Line, Indian Henry's Park, 
Mount Rainier 388 

From a photograph by Curtis &* Miller 

xxi 



5Fllu^tration^ 

Map of Yellowstone National Park . . . 436 
Map of Yosemite National Park .... 446 
Map of Glacier National Park .... 476 
Map of Rocky Mountain National Park . . 492 

The maps and bird's-eye view are used by permission of the Na- 
tional Park Service, Department of the Interior. 



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AND NATIONAL MONUMENTS, I917 



YOUR NATIONAL PARKS 



YOUR 
NATIONAL PARKS 

I 

THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 

I. A CAMP-FIRE THAT MADE HISTORY 

On September 19, 1870, a number of 
men were chatting around a camp-fire in 
the wilds of northwestern Wyoming. They 
had been exploring the Yellowstone won- 
derland. They had seen the geysers, — 
little hot-water volcanoes, — the pools of 
boiling colored mud, the great petrified 
forest, and the golden canon of the Yel- 
lowstone, into whose colored depths the 
snowy river leaps. The exploration was 
over, and the men were about to start for 
their homes. 

A group were discussing how they might 
secure the ownership of this scenic empire. 
A monopoly of this wonderland would 
3 



four i^ational ^arfe^ 

mean a fortune. The discussion was inter- 
rupted. Cornelius Hedges arose before the 
camp-fire. He said that private ownership 
ought never to be considered. This region, 
he thought, should be set aside by the Gov- 
ernment and forever held for the unre- 
stricted use of the people. The magnificent 
National-Park idea was thus born by a 
camp-fire in the wilds. The views of this 
statesman prevailed, and it was agreed 
that the park project be launched at once 
and vigorously pushed. And this was done. 
A few enterprising, aggressive men cham- 
pioned the measure so earnestly that the 
Park became a reality in less than two 
years after the idea originated. 

This celebrated camp was near the junc- 
tion of the Gibbon and Firehole Rivers, 
at the foot of what now is National Park 
Mountain. In 1891 I made a reverent pil- 
grimage to this historic spot. I am grateful 
to every one who helped establish the Yel- 
lowstone Park. I am glad that the idea of 
a National Park was a camp-fire thought. 

4 



€l)e f ellotDiDftone i^ational $axk 

The Helena (Montana) "Herald" of 
November 9, 1870, had an article by Cor- 
nelius Hedges, containing what is probably 
the first published reference to the park 
project. Honor must be given to David E. 
Folsom and a number of other individuals 
for publicly suggesting, independently, a 
similar idea. These suggestions, however, 
were barren of results. 

In the course of that autumn a bold park 
campaign was begun by Nathaniel P. Lang- 
ford, Cornelius Hedges, and William H. 
Claggett, who had just been elected Dele- 
gate to Congress from Montana. Langford 
lectured in behalf of the project before in- 
terested audiences in Minneapolis, Wash- 
ington, New York, and elsewhere; and he 
and Walter Trumbull published magazine 
articles on the subject. Copies of Lang- 
ford's article in "Scribner's Magazine" 
were placed in the hands of every Member 
of Congress. 

Dr. Ferdinand V. Hayden, of the United 
States Geological Survey of the Territories, 

5 



Sour l^ational ^arh^ 

became interested in the cause, and ren- 
dered invaluable service. During the sum- 
mer of 1 87 1 he explored the Yellowstone 
region and took scores of photographs. In 
cooperation with others, he drew the bill 
for Congressional enactment, and marked 
the boundary lines of the Park. This bill 
was introduced in the House by William 
H. Claggett, December 18, 1871. Senator 
Pomeroy, of Kansas, immediately intro- 
duced the identical measure in the Senate. 
Claggett, Hayden, Langford, and others 
made a thorough canvass. Each Member 
of Congress was personally interviewed. 
The enthusiasm, intelligence, and sincerity 
of these advocates produced winning re- 
sults. The question came to a successful 
vote in the Senate, January 30, 1872. Sena- 
tor Cole, of California, opposed. 

In the House, the Committee on Public 
Lands reported the bill favorably. Henry 
L. Dawes, of Massachusetts, championed 
the measure. It reached a vote, February 
27, 1872, with the following result: yeas, 
6 



115; nays, 65; not voting, 60. The bill was 
signed by President Grant, March i, 1872. 

It is a remarkable fact that Congress 
should have thus created the Yellowstone 
National Park. Through the ages the priv- 
ileged classes have had almost exclusive 
enjoyment of scenic empires. The campaign 
which brought about the creation of this 
Park was brief, intense, and unique. It 
was a genuine and epoch-marking achieve- 
ment. 

The National-Park idea has gone round 
the world. All leading nations now have 
national parks and are planning more. 
Time is likely to stamp our original legisla- 
tion as one of the important acts of states- 
manship. A few public-spirited men of 
vision began a revolution and triumphed. 
The anniversary of this event may some 
day be observed with world-wide celebra- 
tion. People progress in the improvement 
of their playgrounds no less than in the 
ordering of their workshops. 

Concerning this National-Park legisla- 
7 



four i^ational ^arftjef 

tion, General Hiram M. Chittenden, au- 
thor of "The Yellowstone National Park," 
makes the following comment: — 

Perhaps no act of our National Congress has 
received such general approbation at home or 
such profuse commendation from foreigners 
as that creating the Yellowstone National 
Park. The lapse of time only serves to confirm 
and extend its importance, and to give addi- 
tional force to the sentiment so well expressed 
by the Earl of Dunraven when he visited the 
Park in 1874: "All honor then to the United 
States for having bequeathed as a free gift to 
man the beauties and curiosities of 'Wonder- 
land.' It was an act worthy of a great nation, 
and she will have her reward in the praise of 
the present army of tourists, no less than in 
the thanks of the generations of them yet to 
come." 

It was a notable act, not only on account of 
the transcendent importance of the territory 
it was designed to protect, but because it was 
a marked innovation in the traditional policy 
of government. From time immemorial priv- 
ileged classes have been protected by law in 
the withdrawal, for the exclusive enjoyment, 
of immense tracts for forests, parks, and game 
preserves. But never before was a region of 
such vast extent as the Yellowstone Park set 
8 



€^t f ellotD^tone i^ational ^arfe 

apart for the use of all the people without dis- 
tinction of rank or wealth. 

It has been well said that "history is 
geography set in motion." And ''Geog- 
raphy," says Kant, "lies at the basis of 
history." The peculiar geographic environ- 
ment of the Yellowstone tract had a defi- 
nite and striking influence on the early his- 
tory of the region. It attracted few visitors 
and no settlers. To the pioneer and the 
Indian it offered few necessities, and these 
were almost inaccessible owing to climatic 
discomforts and difficulties of communica- 
tion. Even to-day, for commercial use, the 
Yellowstone country would support only a 
sparse population. 

But what formerly repelled now attracts. 
Time has brought changes. Congested 
population, the necessity for outdoor life, 
the destruction of most of the wild outing- 
places — these conditions have given to 
this and to other scenic mountain places a 
high economic value ; likewise what may be 
called a nobler or higher value. Reserved 
9 



iour l^ational ^atk^ 

and used as a recreation park by the public, 
it has become an economic asset of enor- 
mous importance. And through park use 
it conveys benefits to thousands. 

Yesterday the Yellowstone environing 
factor arrested, deflected, and retarded the 
movement and the development of society. 
To-day it attracts, arouses, energizes, and 
ennobles a multitude. 

2. THE DISCOVERY OF THE YELLOWSTONE 

In the Yellowstone National Park — the 
first national park in the world — are so 
many natural wonders, of such unusual 
character, that not until the tract was dis- 
covered the sixth time were the American 
people convinced of its existence. Sixty- 
three years elapsed from the time of its 
first discovery to that of its recognition as 
an actuality. 

The first two discoveries — they were 
made by trappers a generation apart — 
were laughed at and soon forgotten. The 
third, by prospectors, led to a successful 

lO 



private exploring expedition from Mon- 
tana. This was followed by a larger and 
semi-official expedition, which also achieved 
its object. The sixth and last was an official 
discovery by the United States Govern- 
ment. 

The Indians of the Yellowstone region 
knew of the present Park tract. They had 
a north-and-south trail across it, also one 
from east to west. To them it was the "Top 
of the World," the "Land of Burning 
Mountains," and the "Yellow Rock." But 
its wonders appear to have produced little 
or no impression on the Indians; there is 
an absolute dearth of myths, legends, and 
even of superstitions concerning it. To me 
this is remarkable. From every point of 
view the natives regarded the Yellowstone 
with indifference. Lewis and Clark daily 
questioned Indians concerning the charac- 
ter of the country, but the explorers heard 
nothing of the Yellowstone wonderland, 
although they passed and repassed within 
a few miles of it. 

II 



iour l^attonal ^arh$^ 

The Indians made scant use of this terri- 
tory. In an average year the passes into it 
are blocked with snow for nine months of 
the twelve. Besides, it is mostly covered 
with a tangle of forests. In earlier days, 
living in it or traveling through it was diffi- 
cult. Though filled with big game during 
the summer, at no time of year was it equal 
to the surrounding country as a hunting- 
ground. 

John Colter, who first discovered the 
Yellowstone region in 1807, was a member 
of the Lewis and Clark expedition. He 
was a hunter and trapper, a master of 
woodcraft, and an outdoor man of the first 
class; at the time of the discovery he was 
thirty-five years of age, nearly six feet tall, 
and an athlete who could hold his own in 
the games of the trappers* rendezvous. His 
endurance, courage, and resourcefulness 
were marvelous. Neither wilderness nor 
hostile Indian had terrors for him. The 
five years that he spent in the Yellowstone 
region were so crowded with wilderness ad- 
12 



€Jje ieHotD^tone i^ational ^atU 

venture that his name is immortal in the 
history of the American frontier. He ob- 
tained his release from the Lewis and Clark 
exploring party at a point on the Missouri 
River, some distance below the mouth of 
the Yellowstone, in August, 1806. He had 
served with the expedition more than two 
years. 

With two trappers. Colter that year 
proceeded up the Missouri and spent the 
winter somewhere on its headwaters. The 
following spring he left his companions 
and started for St. Louis. After a solitary 
journey of about two thousand miles, he 
met Manuel Lisa, the celebrated trapper 
and trader, who, with a large party, was on 
his way to found a trading-post somewhere 
on the headwaters of the Missouri. Lisa 
persuaded Colter to turn back with him. 

Strong is the lure of the wilderness. 
Although Colter had been away from civili- 
zation three years, and a triumphant wel- 
come awaited his return, he again post- 
poned the enjoyment of all that old friends 
13 



Wont li^ational ^ath^ 

and city attractions could offer, to resume 
the adventurous experiences of a trapper's 
life among hostile Indians in the wilds. 

Lisa built a trading-post, Fort Manuel, 
at the junction of the Big Horn and Yellow- 
stone Rivers, about two hundred miles 
southeast of the Yellowstone Park. From 
here, with a thirty-pound pack and rifle. 
Colter set off alone on a thousand-mile 
journey into the wilderness to tell the sur- 
rounding Indian tribes of this new trading- 
post. 

He traveled a few hundred miles to the 
southwest without notable adventure. We 
now marvel at the results of this journey, 
for its discoveries put Colter in the front 
rank of geographical explorers on the 
American continent. He discovered the 
Wind River Range, Union Pass, Jackson 
Hole, Teton Pass, Pierre's Hole, and the 
Grand Teton. He was the first to see the 
headwaters of those two great rivers the 
Green Fork of the Colorado and the Snake 
Fork of the Columbia. These discoveries 
14 



€lje icUottJiaftone i^ational ^arft 

might well have been enough for any one 
man, but his greatest discovery was still 
before him. 

Colter was with a band of Crows near 
Pierre's Hole when it was attacked by 
marauding Blackfeet. Of necessity Colter 
fought with the Crows, who were victori- 
ous. The Blackfeet blamed Colter for their 
defeat, and from this incident may have 
arisen the long-continued hostility of the 
Blackfeet tribes against the whites. 

Again alone, Colter set forth from 
Pierre's Hole, St. Anthony, Idaho, and 
traveled straight across the mountains to 
Fort Manuel. A wound in the leg, which 
he had received in the fight with the Black- 
feet, was not yet healed. The direct route 
that he took for his return may have been 
chosen as the shortest, but most probably 
was selected in order to avoid the Blackfeet. 

The crowning achievement of this re- 
markable journey was the discovery and 
traversing of the Yellowstone wonderland. 
His course took Colter diagonally, from 
15 



iour i^ational ^axk^ 

southwest to northeast, across what now is 
the Yellowstone National Park. He prob- 
ably passed along the west shore of Yel- 
lowstone Lake, and may have followed 
the Yellowstone River from the lake to 
the falls. He saw numerous geysers, hot 
springs, paint-pots, and possibly Sulphur 
Mountain. He noted that numerous rivers 
had their sources in the Park and flowed 
from it in all directions, thus justifying the 
Indian name for the region, "Top of the 
World." After crossing Mount Washburn 
he probably forded the river near Tower 
Falls and then followed the east fork of the 
Yellowstone. 

Colter arrived safely at Fort Manuel af- 
ter a journey of about three hundred miles 
from Pierre's Hole and a round trip of 
about eight hundred miles. Aside from its 
geographical value, this was a remarkable 
wilderness achievement. 

A little later came the most extraordi- 
nary chapter of Colter's adventurous life. 
In 1809, with a companion named John 
16 



Potts, he was trapping beavers near the 
Three Forks of the Missouri. They were 
rowing up a small stream that flowed into 
the Jefferson River, the most western of 
the forks. At a point on this stream about 
five miles from the Jefferson, they heard a 
great trampling. High banks and brush- 
wood shut off their view. 

Presently about five hundred Blackfeet 
appeared on the banks and ordered them 
to come ashore. Escape was impossible. 
The two men had the hardihood to throw 
the beaver- traps overboard, hoping to re- 
cover them later. As the canoe touched 
the shore, an Indian snatched Potts's ri- 
fle from him. Thereupon Colter sprang 
ashore, wrested the rifle from the Indian, 
and handed it to Potts who immediately 
pushed off into the stream. Colter told him 
to come back and not to try to escape. An 
arrow whizzed by Colter, and Potts fell 
back in the canoe, crying out, " I 'm done 
for!" as he shot an Indian dead. In an in- 
stant his body was filled with arrows. 
17 



The Blackfeet seized Colter and stripped 
him naked, then discussed methods of tor- 
turing him to death. They decided to set 
him up for a target, but the chief inter- 
fered — that was not exciting enough for 
him. Seizing Colter by the shoulder, he 
asked him if he could run fast. The ques- 
tion was greeted with howls of delight by 
the Blackfeet. 

The chief led Colter out on the prairie 
about three hundred yards from the band, 
pointed in the direction of the Jefferson 
River, told him to save himself if he could, 
and cast him loose. Colter ran, the Black- 
feet whooped and pursued, and the race for 
life was on. 

The ground was thick with prickly pears 
that pierced Colter's bare feet. Neverthe- 
less, he kept ahead of his pursuers. When 
about half the five miles to the Jefferson 
had been covered, he ventured to look back. 
The Indians were much scattered, and he 
had gained on the main body; but one In- 
dian, carrying a spear, was close upon him. 
i8 



Colter exerted himself to the utmost, 
and by the time he came within a mile of 
the Jefferson he was exhausted and blood 
from his nostrils had covered the front of 
his body. He stopped suddenly, turned, 
and spread out his arms. The Blackfoot, 
almost upon him, but also exhausted, at- 
tempted to stop and throw his spear, but 
he fell and the spear broke. Colter sprang 
upon him, seized the spear-head, pinned 
him to the ground, and ran on. 

The foremost of the remaining Indians 
stopped by the fallen runner. When others 
came, they all set up a whoop and resumed 
the chase. 

Colter gained the river-bank in advance 
of all his pursuers, just where there hap- 
pened to be a large beaver house, standing 
partly against the bank and partly in the 
water. Knowing that the entrance to the 
house was at the bottom, under the water, 
he dived and succeeded in forcing his way 
to the floor just above the water-level. 

Man fleeing from man has hidden in 
19 



four l^ational ^axh^ 

strange places, but it may be doubted 
whether one ever before sought safety in 
a beaver house of brush and mud ! 

Soon the Blackfeet were searching all 
over the place, "screeching like so many 
devils." They made search for the naked 
white man all the rest of the day. Appar- 
ently even their savage cunning never sus- 
pected the beaver house. Although they 
frequently clambered over it, they did 
not disturb it. 

When night came and Colter could no 
longer hear the Indians, he swam down- 
stream, gained the prairie, and headed for 
Fort Manuel, some two hundred miles away. 
Naked, with bleeding feet, he walked over 
prickly pears on the prairie and through 
snow in the mountains, which he crossed 
above the timber-line. The sun blistered 
him. Part of the time, he traveled by night 
and lay hid by day. He appears to have 
lived chiefly on the Indian-turnip {Pso- 
ralea esculenta). 

Colter arrived at Fort Manuel in terrible 
20 



shape. At first the men did not recognize 
him. He had been eleven days in making 
the distance between Three Forks and the 
fort. 

That winter Colter had the courage to go 
back alone to the scene of his capture to 
recover his beaver-traps. Before he reached 
them he was ambushed by Blackfeet, but 
escaped. He returned to the fort, and the 
following spring he was with Pierre Menard 
at Three Forks when the place was success- 
fully attacked by Blackfeet. Colter was 
among the few who escaped. 

Pierre Menard wrote a four-page letter 
to his brother-in-law, Pierre Chouteau, and 
Colter started with it for St. Louis. With 
a companion, "Mr. William Bryant," he 
made the three-thousand-mile journey by 
canoe in thirty days. Upon his arrival at 
St. Louis, he reported to his old comman- 
der, William Clark; told him the story of 
his journeys, discoveries, and adventures, 
and gave him much material for his forth- 
coming map of the Lewis and Clark expedi- 

21 



four i^ational ^arft^ 

tion. Clark traced on the map the route of 
Colter's Yellowstone Park journey and gave 
it the legend " Colter's Route of 1807." 

There is nothing incredible about any of 
Colter's stories. His accounts of the Yel- 
lowstone region appear to have been re- 
markably true to fact. His escape from 
the Indians, and his various journeys, are 
experiences within the range of human 
achievement. His hiding in a beaver house 
is easily possible. His race and his naked 
journey across the mountains show the 
courage and hardihood of the frontiersman 
of the day. I have been over the place 
where he ran for his life from the Blackfeet 
and have followed his trail across the moun- 
tains. 

Henry M. Brackenridge, the author of 
"Views of Louisiana, together with Jour- 
nal," secured Colter's story at first hand, 
and he does it justice. John Bradbury, au- 
thor of "Travels into the Interior of North 
America," did much important work in the 
Mississippi and Missouri Valleys in the 
22 



€Jje iellotD^tone i^attonal ^arft 

years 1 809-11. He also got Colter's story 
from Colter himself, and gives a careful 
account of the race for life with the Black- 
feet. The account given by General Thomas 
James, in "Three Years among the In- 
dians and Mexicans," is a third first-hand 
story of Colter's activities. Washington 
Irving was too good a literary craftsman to 
overlook Colter's story. In "Astoria" he 
retells the escape from the Blackfeet. Gen- 
eral Hiram M. Chittenden gives full ap- 
preciation to Colter in his "History of the 
Early Western Fur Trade" and "The Yel- 
lowstone National Park," both standard 
works. 

Nevertheless, St. Louis did not believe 
Colter. He told his travels, discoveries, and 
adventures, and the people laughed in de- 
rision. For two generations St. Louis mock- 
ingly referred to the Yellowstone wonder- 
land as "Colter's Hell." 

Colter married and went to live near 
Daniel Boone at La Charette. He declined 
to join the Astoria expedition, and this is 
23 



iour l^ational ^arfe^ 

the last heard of him. He may have died 
shortly afterwards; or it is possible that, 
because of unjust public opinion, he may 
have moved into seclusion. At any rate, 
the later years and the burial-place of the 
first discoverer of the Yellowstone Na- 
tional Park are unknown. 

Colter's story is a wilderness story of 
supreme character. It is full of the vigor 
and independence of outdoors. Colter is an 
heroic and picturesque figure in national 
history. I wish every boy and girl in the 
land could read his adventures. 

The second discovery of the Yellowstone 
site was also made by a trapper. James 
Bridger, of Fort Bridger fame, was there in 
1830, but his description of its wonders was 
laughed at as "just another of old Jim 
Bridger's good yarns." Between 1830 and 
1843 the region was visited by many trap- 
pers and traders, and its wonders were com- 
mon knowledge to the plainsmen of the 
Missouri Valley. Some accounts got into 
print. Nevertheless, the Yellowstone was 
24 



€l)e ielloto^tone l^ational ^arft 

no more real to the American of that gen- 
eration than was "Colter's Hell" to the 
generation before. 

Trapping began to fall off. The Mexican 
War and the California gold excitement led 
public attention away from the Yellow- 
stone country, and by the beginning of the 
Civil War it was as completely forgotten 
as if it had never been known. 

It was the prospector who gave the Yel- 
lowstone tract to the world for the third 
time. By 1865, reports of its wonders had 
been spread far and wide by prospectors 
attracted to the region by the Montana 
gold excitement. At last Montana became 
mildly curious over these reports. In 1869, 
David E. Folsom, C. W. Cook, and Wil- 
liam Peterson visited the region. They 
told enough to bring about the organiza- 
tion of a large semi-official expedition. 

This Yellowstone expedition (1870) is 
known as the " Washburn-Doane Expedi- 
tion," and from it dates the latter-day his- 
tory of the Park. Lieutenant Gustavus C. 
25 



gour l^ational ^ath0 

Doane, Second Cavalry, U.S.A., with a ser- 
geant and four privates was detailed from 
Fort Ellis to escort the expedition. Among 
its nine civilians were General Henry D. 
Washburn, Surveyor-General of Montana; 
Nathaniel P. Langford, author of "Vigi- 
lante Days and Ways" and first superin- 
tendent of the Park ; Cornelius Hedges, who 
first proposed setting apart the region as a 
National Park; and Samuel T. Hauser, 
president of the First National Bank of 
Helena, and later Governor of Montana. 

So skeptical was this party that when 
the steam of Old Faithful was first seen 
through the woods it was believed to be a 
forest fire. 

Mr. Hedges subsequently said, " I think 
a more confirmed set of skeptics never 
went out into the wilderness than those 
who composed our party, and never was a 
party more completely surprised and cap- 
tivated with the wonders of nature." 

Through the press and lecture-platform, 
the Washburn-Doane expedition spread 
26 



€?jc iellotD^tone i^ational ^ath 

the knowledge of its discoveries broadcast 
over the country. The direct result of its 
work was that the United States Govern- 
ment sent an official expedition to the Park 
the next year. This was a joint expedition 
made up from the Engineering Corps of 
the Army and from the United States 
Geological Survey of the Territories. The 
official United States Government expedi- 
tion of 1 87 1 officially put it on the map, 
with official scientific notes and photo- 
graphs. Thus the sixth discovery of this 
wondrous region, after two generations of 
unbelief, convinced the people that it ex- 
isted ! 

During these two generations the unex- 
plored wilderness of the Louisiana Pur- 
chase had been formed into seven new 
States of the Union, containing more than 
five million people. And "Colter's Hell," 
when its existence had been finally and offi- 
cially established, was within two hun- 
dred and fifty miles of a transcontinental 
railroad. 

27 



four H^ational ^ath^ 

3. THE GEYSERS, LAKES, AND STREAMS 

Water in numberless pleasing forms is 
one of the attractive features of the Yel- 
lowstone Park. There are snowy water- 
falls that leap in glory. There are geysers 
— transient, towering, fluted — with white 
columns draped with steam. Both the 
geysers and the waterfalls bring the rain- 
bow to them ; or, the prismatic springs go to 
the rainbow for their colors. The cascades 
have all the excitement of ocean breakers. 
The lakes mirror the clouds, and their 
placid bosoms reflect the stars that are "in 
the quiet skies." There are streams that 
wind and linger, and brooks that go on for- 
ever. There are hot springs and cold, large 
springs and small, each with its own at- 
tractive setting. Many burst through the 
roofs of caves; others gush from grottoes; 
still others pour forth from mounds and 
columns. 

The quiescent springs and prismatic 
pools have a delicate, exquisite, gemlike 
28 



€6e iellotD^tone i^ational ^atft 

beauty unlike anything else in the world of 
nature or of art. The waters are soft blue. 
Changing lights tinge the water with iri- 
descence ; touch its surface with soft lumi- 
nosity; give to moulded and sculptured 
basins a refinement of coloring that tran- 
scends belief. 

Dr. Ferdinand V. Hayden gives this 
glowing description : — 

The wonderful transparency of the water 
surpasses anything of the kind I have ever 
seen in any other portion of the world. The 
sky, with the smallest cloud that flits across 
it, is reflected in its clear depths, and the ultra- 
marine colors, more vivid than the sea, are 
greatly heightened by constant, gentle vibra- 
tions. One can look down into the clear depths 
and see with perfect distinctness the minutest 
ornament on the inner sides of the basin ; and 
the exquisite beauty of the coloring and the 
variety of forms baffle any attempt to portray 
them either with pen or pencil. 

These waters repose in basins that have 
in miniature all the beauty of the Mam- 
moth Cave. The basins and their rims are 
formed of minerals — mostly of silica — 
29 



gour l^ational ^athH 

deposited by the water. The rims are fit- 
tingly beautiful; the lines of internal con- 
struction are harmonious. Many springs 
have built up their basins with precipi- 
tated minerals until they rest on mounds. 
All these are picturesque, and some are 
beautiful. 

Morning-Glory Spring is like a gigantic 
morning-glory set in the earth. The Fire- 
hole, with a black fissured bottom, has at 
times flamelike colors which create such an 
illusion that the fiery interior of the earth 
appears to be on exhibition. 

Prismatic Lake, a spring large enough to 
be called at least a lakelet or pond, is a com- 
bination of the artistic and the spectacular. 
It has built up for itself a rounded mound, 
and down the gently curving slopes flow 
its waters in thousands of interlacing rivu- 
lets. Over the pool hangs a cloud of steam, 
often tinted red by reflection from the 
waters below. 

At Mammoth Hot Springs, close to Fort 
Yellowstone, the water bursts from the 
30 




p< 



o ^ 

w o 

o < 

- o 

^^ 



mountain-side with an enormous mineral- 
ized flow. Here lime in solution is quickly 
precipitated, forming basins and terraces 
and slopes of exquisite design, the whole 
adorned with intricate and fantastic fret- 
work of pink, brown, yellow, and white. 

While the deposits here are chiefly lime 
or travertine, those of the geysers and of 
the other hot springs are silica. The two 
kinds of deposits diff"er greatly. The Mam- 
moth Hot Springs' deposits are soft and 
frequently change their form. The silica de- 
posits of the geysers are hard as flint. With- 
out this hardness, the geyser action would 
be impossible, as the lime and travertine 
formations would not withstand the ex- 
plosive violence. A curious fact in this con- 
nection is that the color in and around the 
geysers and hot springs is in part due to 
the presence of algae, a minute vegetable 
growth. 

The geyser is one of Nature's strangest 
freaks. These in the Yellowstone Park are 
the largest, most spectacular, and most 
31 



Hour l^ational f)arh^ 

artistic in the world. The geyser may be 
described either as a large intermittent hot- 
water fountain or as a small water-and- 
steam volcano. There are scores of these 
eruptive springs in the Yellowstone, and 
their irregularities form part of their fas- 
cination. The place and method of apply- 
ing the heat, the diameter and shape of the 
tube, and the point of inflow and the quan- 
tity of the water are all matters affecting 
their activities. Apparently they, as well 
as the springs in general, have no under- 
ground interconnection, since the play of 
one geyser has no effect upon others close 

by. 

The eruptions are irregular as to inter- 
vals. Black Warrior and Hurricane do a 
continuous performance. Constant pauses 
from twenty to fifty-five seconds between 
gushes. Grand is active at intervals of 
from one to four days, and Turban plays 
intermittently for twenty-four hours fol- 
lowing Grand. Giantess rests from five to 
forty days at a time. Lioness played once 
32 



Hour i^ational ^atk$ 

which has a minimum of two hundred and 
a maximum of two hundred and fifty feet. 
Excelsior, which sometimes threw its water 
three hundred feet into the air, has not 
played since 1888. 

This geyser action is novel, picturesque, 
and weird. It appeals to the imagination. 
It goes on day and night, summer and win- 
ter, throughout the years. While many of 
the geysers are comparatively new, others 
are centuries old. Some may have been 
playing since prehistoric times. 

Old Faithful, in the Upper Geyser Basin, 
is in most respects the most wonderful gey- 
ser in the Park. Its action is almost uni- 
form; its usual interval is seventy minutes. 
It plays for four minutes and sends its 
water up from sixty to one hundred and 
twenty feet. It gives ample warning before 
each play and gets into action by sending 
its water higher and higher with graceful 
ease. 

But in some particulars Great Fountain, 
in the Lower Geyser Basin, may be put at 
34 



in each of the years 1910, 1912, and 1914. 
Splendid, which formerly threw a ten-min- 
ute gush to a height of two hundred feet, 
has not played since 1892. 

There is equal variation in the duration of 
the gush. The Minute Man's activity lasts 
but from fifteen to thirty seconds. Giant 
stops work promptly at the end of an hour. 
Giantess, after her long rest, plays from 
twelve to thirty-six hours. 

The quantity of water erupted varies from 
a few gallons in the small geysers to thou- 
sands of barrels in the large ones. The water 
is generally thrown vertically, though some 
of the tubes lie at an angle. The Fan, as its 
name suggests, throws its water in a fan- 
like shape. 

Geysers vary in the height of their gush 
as in everything else, and the gush of each 
is seldom twice the same. Jewel varies from 
five feet to twenty, and Great Fountain 
from seventy-five to one hundred and fifty 
feet. 

The highest stream is thrown by Giant, 
33 




(iLlJ l-AirHFUL GEYSER 
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL I'AI 



the head of the geyser list. Its waters issue 
from a vast low mound, and the basin has 
attractive ornamentation. It spouts an 
enormous volume of water, sometimes to a 
height of one hundred and fifty feet, and 
plays from forty-five to sixty minutes, at 
intervals of eight to eleven hours. 

Castle Geyser, in the Upper Geyser 
Basin, throws only a moderate gush about 
seventy-five feet in height, but it has built 
up a most imposing crater. It is quiet for 
from four to seven days ; it then plays three 
or four times at half-hour intervals. 

Other geysers that the visitor may well 
see are Grand and Beehive, both in the 
Upper Geyser Basin. Grand plays for 
about an hour at intervals of from one to 
four days and throws a column of steaming 
water smoothly to a height of two hundred 
feet. Of all the geysers. Beehive perhaps 
approaches nearest to artistic perfection. 
From a small, beehive-like mount it sends 
up a slender column of water vertically and 
symmetrically two hundred feet. 
35 



four i^ational ^arfejef 

Yellowstone Lake lies at an altitude of 
7741 feet above sea-level. Its area is about 
one hundred and thirty-nine square miles, 
and its irregular shore-line has a length of 
one hundred miles. In places the lake is 
three hundred feet deep. There are thirty- 
six other lakes, of which Shoshone, Heart, 
and Lewis are the largest. Each has its 
own peculiar and delightful wilderness 
boundary and beauty. 

There is a close network of streams, of 
which one hundred and sixty-five have 
names. Among the more important are 
Yellowstone, Lamar, Snake, Gardiner, and 
Firehole Rivers. There are numerous water- 
falls and cascades. The extensive water- 
flow abundantly supplies the headwaters 
of the Missouri, Yellowstone, and Snake 
Rivers. In Two Ocean Pass, among other 
places, is a lakelet upon the very summit 
of the Continental Divide whose waters 
flow to both the Atlantic and the Pacific. 
The altitude here is 8150 feet, and the 
lakelet completes a continuous waterway 
36 



€6e icnotdjftone i^ational path 

of nearly six thousand miles from coast to 
coast. 

A map that I carried showed Two Ocean 
Pond on the Continental Divide to the 
west of the Thumb. There is a Two Ocean 
Pond on the Divide at that place as well 
as one to the south of the lake. But my 
map did not show that the Divide was 
horseshoe-shaped, and it located the pond 
on the wrong arm of this horseshoe. Con- 
sequently I had a long search before I 
found the pond, and much confusion with 
the topography and watersheds after I had 
discovered it. 

One day in 1891 I had the good fortune 
to come upon General Hiram M. Chitten- 
den. He was directing the cutting of trees 
at a place that has since become famous 
as Lake View, from which, perhaps, the 
best view of Yellowstone Lake is to be had. 
General Chittenden spent many years in 
the Park and developed its existing scenic 
road system. He was the first to propose 
that the excess of elk and other game in 
37 



iour i^ational ^arfejer 

this and other parks be distributed over 
the country at cost. 

What is the greatest feature in this won- 
derland whose history began at a camp- 
fire? The Lower Falls thrilled me more 
than any other waterfall I ever have seen. 
The Yellowstone Canon may be called the 
greatest attraction in this Park. But to 
me the supreme attraction is the petrified 
forests. 

4. AGES OF FIRE AND ICE 

The Yellowstone plateau is a vast lava- 
deposit. Its material is mostly volcanic, 
but its landscape — its architecture — is 
largely glacial. In ages remote, this realm 
became the scene of volcanic activity. In- 
termittent outpourings went on through 
long periods of time. Volcanoes in and 
near the Park threw forth quantities of 
ashes, lava, and cinders, which built up a 
plateau region three or four thousand feet 
thick. Rhyolite and other forms of lava 
38 



€f>c f ellotDiSftone l^ational ^arli 

were last spread over the region. This 
volcanic activity appears to have ended 
before the last ice age. No eruption has 
occurred for centuries. The ice age wrought 
vast changes in the volcanic landscape. The 
ice smoothed wide areas, shaped caiions, 
and rounded mountain-sides, produced and 
spread soil, and gave the entire region the 
flowing, attractive lines of glacial landscape. 

On the rim of the Yellowstone Canon, 
about three miles below the falls, an 
enormous glaciated granite boulder re- 
poses upon lava — rhyolite. It measures 
about twenty-four by twenty by eighteen 
feet. It was transported to this resting- 
place from mountains more than thirty 
miles away. Here we have a stone founda- 
tion laid by volcanic fire, and upon it a 
stone, shaped, transported, and placed by 
glacial ice. 

There are about three thousand geysers, 

hot springs, and mud-and-water springs 

in the Park; and as many other vents of 

steam, acid, and gas. That the geysers 

39 



four l^ational garfe^ 

have been active in this region for thou- 
sands of years is shown in the deep deposits 
of silica and travertine that overspread 
extensive area. During the ice age many 
of these deposits were eroded and others 
were piled with boulders. It is plain that 
steam and hot water had been at work 
long before the last ice age came. During 
the ice period, a wild conflict probably 
took place between the deep outspread ice 
and the insistent eruptions of steam and 
hot water. 

The surface of Yellowstone Lake once 
stood about one hundred and eighty feet 
higher than it is at present. Its outlet was 
then through the Snake River to the Pa- 
cific Ocean. The Continental Divide then 
passed over the summit of Mount Wash- 
burn. Unwritten as yet is the splendid 
geological story of this change, which may 
have been caused by earthquake upheaval 
or by subsidence. It appears to have oc- 
curred about the close of the last glacial 
epoch. Possibly ice dammed the narrow 
40 



gorge of Outlet Creek, through which the 
waters of the lake formerly flowed to the 
Snake River. Whatever the cause, its out- 
let waters changed and eroded the now fa- 
mous and splendidly colored canon of the 
Yellowstone. 

This is the most celebrated canon in 
the Park, and its colors make it one of 
the most gorgeously startling in the world. 
At bright noonday, it is adorned with all 
the hues of the sunset sky. Its precipitous 
walls are comparatively free from vegeta- 
tion and are broken with pinnacles and 
jagged ridges. About fifteen hundred feet 
below the edge, the rushing waters of the 
Yellowstone River take on various shades 
of blue and green between accumulations 
of gray foam. 

Into the upper end of this canon the 
river, about seventy feet wide, makes a 
sheer leap of three hundred and ten feet. 
From the near-by rim, this wonderful 
waterfall appears like an enormous, fluffy, 
endless pouring of whitest snowflakes. 
41 



iour l^ational ^avh0 

The magnificence and wildness of its set- 
ting combine to make it one of the most 
imposing waterfalls in the world. 

The paint-pots are the curiosities of the 
Park. They are craters, or irregular- 
shaped ponds, in the earth, filled with 
brightly colored mud, thick and hot, of 
fine texture, and in appearance resem- 
bling kalsomine or paint freshly mixed 
and colored. The mud in many pots is 
red or pink; that in others is lavender, 
blue, orange, or yellow. Occasionally a 
rugged vat of this mud is found boiling 
away — very suggestive of slaking lime. 
In other cases, plastic mud throbs and 
undulates as steam- jets now and then 
escape through it. Here and there this 
bright steamy mud opens like a full-blown 
lily. The paint-pots near the Fountain 
Geyser, those east of the road in Gibbon 
Meadows, and those close to the lake at 
the Thumb are the more attractive. 

John Muir, in "Our National Parks," 
says of the Yellowstone: — 
42 



€Je ieWohJi^tone i^ational ^arfe 

Beside the treasures common to most moun- 
tain regions that are wild and blessed with a 
kind climate, the Park is full of exciting won- 
ders. The wildest geysers in the world, in 
bright, triumphant bands, are dancing and 
singing in it amid thousands of boiling springs, 
beautiful and awful, their basins arrayed in 
gorgeous colors like gigantic flowers; and hot 
paint-pots, mud springs, mud volcanoes, 
mush and broth caldrons whose contents are 
of every color and consistency, plash and 
heave and roar in bewildering abundance. In 
the adjacent mountains, beneath the living 
trees the edges of petrified forests are exposed 
to view, like specimens on the shelves of a 
museum, standing on ledges tier above tier 
where they grew, solemnly silent in rigid 
crystalline beauty after swaying in the winds 
thousands of centuries ago, opening marvelous 
views back into the years and climates and life 
of the past. Here, too, are hills of sparkling 
crystals, hills of sulphur, hills of glass, hills of 
cinders and ashes, mountains of every style 
of architecture, icy or forested, mountains 
covered with honey-bloom sweet as Hymet- 
tus, mountains boiled soft like potatoes and 
colored like a sunset sky. 

I had lively scrambles and saw much 
petrified wood in the rough mountainous 
43 



Hour l^ational ^ark^ 

country at the northwest corner of the 
Park. But the roughest and most scenic 
section visited was around Sylvan Pass. 
This rugged, narrow pass cuts through 
high, crowding mountains. To the north, 
Hoyt Mountain and Avalanche Peak rise 
precipitously; to the south, Grizzly and 
Top Notch Peaks. Sylvan Lake, whose 
peculiar wild beauty is unexcelled, is near 
this pass. The tree-sprinkled, grassy sec- 
tion near the Lamar River, in the north- 
east corner of the Park, was the most 
charming and parklike section visited. 

The Grand Teton, a peak of towering, 
bold individuality, looms imposingly as 
seen from various points in the Park. Its 
appearance across Yellowstone Lake, from 
a point near the outlet, is magnificent. 
Another excellent view of it is obtained 
from the stage-road midway between Up- 
per Geyser Basin and the Thumb. 

The Grand Teton territory might well 
be added to the Park; likewise a stretch 
of the rugged, mountainous territory ly- 
44 



ing along the southeast corner, and the 
mountainous tract immediately west and 
north of the northwest corner of the Park. 
All these belong to reserved government 
lands, and could without difficulty be ad- 
ministered as a part of this wonderland. 

5. THE PETRIFIED FORESTS 

Volcanic outpourings have ended the 
life of many extensive Yellowstone forests. 
In Amethyst Mountain are twelve forests, 
one above the other, buried at different 
periods by volcanic eruptions. On top of 
this mountain the pines and spruces are 
merrily growing, unmindful of the buried 
past — of the tragic tree history beneath. 
Nature forgets. Ages ago, the lowest of 
these entombed forests grew on the moun- 
tain plateau in the sunlight. But a flow 
of volcanic mud and heavy showers of 
ashes overwhelmed and buried it, with the 
trees standing erect. 

This volcanic material added a layer 
to the plateau. In the new surface above 
45 



four l^ational ^atk0 

the buried and forgotten forest, another 
tree growth flourished and towered. But 
the volcanoes only slept. Again their fire 
and ashes filled the sky, and again the 
forest was overwhelmed. Thus through 
the ages — through "a million years and 
a day" — each time the volcanoes slept 
the pines peeped up, and again their shad- 
ows fell upon the desolate lava landscape. 

At last, twelve or more forests were 
buried, each as it had stood upon the 
mountain, and in a layer by itself. The 
material in these numerous fateful vol- 
canic outpourings raised the summit two 
thousand feet. 

It may be that the topmost of these 
petrified forests was overwhelmed by the 
Ice King, but a volcano entombed the 
others. All were petrified, fossilized, or 
opalized. During the ages that went by, 
the Lamar River and other factors eroded 
a wide valley and excavated the edges of 
these forest ruins. 

This reveals one of the most appealing 
46 




PS--5,- i#? ^s&± 




PETRIKIEU FORESTS IN AMETHYST MOUNTAIN 
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 



€f>e iellotDiBftone i^ational ^ath 

geological stories ever uncovered — twelve 
illustrated but unwritten chapters of world- 
building. 

The strata of these twelve forests, story 
above story, show their edges in the pre- 
cipitous northern face of Amethyst Moun- 
tain. Thousands of logs and stumps still 
partly buried jut and bristle. 

Apparently there is an enormous area of 
these buried fossil forests in the northeast 
part of the Park, and perhaps numerous 
areas elsewhere in the region. They are also 
known to exist near the northwest bound- 
ary of the Park. 

Mineralized water circulated through and 
gradually fossilized the buried trees, chang- 
ing many to opal. In due time the mud 
and ashes that buried these trees also turned 
to stone. Limbs and tops of trees were 
broken off by the ashes, cinders, and mud 
that buried each forest. Many tree-trunks 
were overthrown, but great numbers were 
entombed as they stood. They are from 
one to ten feet in diameter, and some were 
47 



four i^ational ^arfeje? 

of great height. Many of the remaining 
stumps project forty feet. 

Much of the opalized wood is very beau- 
tiful. The change brightened and inten- 
sified the former texture of the wood. In 
most of these stone trees and logs the annual 
rings show clearly. They distinctly reveal 
the age of the tree and its rapidity of growth. 
In many cases the species is readily deter- 
mined. Strange stories are told by the fallen 
logs, in many of which old worm-holes 
show. The half-decayed logs were preserved 
in their original form, and in the process of 
fossilization their hollow interiors were 
filled with beautiful rosettes and crys- 
tals. 

Each of the buried forests contained 
some trees of different species from those 
in the forest just beneath it. Altogether, 
more than "eighty kinds have been recog- 
nized. Many of these would grow only in 
a mild or subtropical clime, so the former 
climate of this region must have been 
warmer than at present. Among the trees 
48 



were redwood, Cottonwood, walnut, pine, 
oak, sycamore, fig, magnolia, and dog- 
wood. 

Ancient Troy was nine ruined cities 
deep. But here in a national playground 
of our own country are twelve tree cities 
in ruins, one above another, and topped 
with a city of living trees. Like the exca- 
vated ruins of Pompeii, these ruined forests 
set one's mind to exploring the realm of 
imagination. Here in a subtropical clime, 
possibly a million years ago, was a luxuri- 
ant forest. Beneath was a crowded under- 
growth of plants, of shrubbery and waving 
ferns. Gay butterflies may have flitted 
here in the golden sunshine. Trees enjoyed 
the storms and lifted their heads serenely 
into the light. Then came the tragic end. 
Twelve times or more was this impressive 
drama reenacted. 

Trees, like men, often rear their struc- 
tures upon the ruins of those that have 
gone before. This is an old, old world. In 
the words of Omar, — 
49 



iour l^ational ^arfeje? 

"When You and I behind the Veil are past, 
Oh, but the long, long while the World shall 
last." 

Is the volcanic curtain once more to fall 
upon the forests of this magic scene? 

In "Our National Parks" John Muir 
comments eloquently upon the fossil forests 
and the telling background of most Yel- 
lowstone landscapes. He says : — 

Yonder is Amethyst Mountain, and other 
mountains hardly less rich in old forests, which 
now seem to spring up again in their glory; 
and you see the storms that buried them — 
the ashes and torrents laden with boulders and 
mud, the centuries of sunshine, and the dark, 
lurid nights. You see again the vast floods of 
lava, red-hot and white-hot, pouring out from 
gigantic geysers, usurping the basins of lakes 
and streams, absorbing or driving away their 
hissing, screaming waters, flowing around hills 
and ridges, submerging every subordinate 
feature. Then you see the snow and glaciers 
taking possession of the land, making new 
landscapes. How admirable it is that, after 
passing through so many vicissitudes of frost 
and fire and flood, the physiognomy and even 
the complexion of the landscape should still 
be so divinely fine! 

SO 



€6e ienoixj^tone l^ational ^arft 

6. area; trees, flowers, and animals 

The Yellowstone Park is about equal in 
area to Delaware and Rhode Island com- 
bined. It has 3300 square miles. The aver- 
age altitude is 7500 feet, while numerous 
peaks rise from 1000 to 3000 feet higher. 
Forests cover 85 per cent of the area. 

The largest parklike grassy space in this 
forested realm lies to the northeast of 
Mount Washburn, along the valleys of the 
Yellowstone and Lamar Rivers. This open 
space is about twenty-five miles long and 
from five to ten miles wide. The second 
largest area of grassy country, Hayden 
Valley, lies several miles to the north of 
Yellowstone Lake. Among other open 
spaces are Swan Lake Flat, Gibbon Mea- 
dows, Pelican Valley, and the small ragged 
areas around the Firehole Geyser Basin and 
Shoshone and Lewis Lakes. 

Among the trees are the quaking aspen, 
Douglas spruce, Engelmann spruce, and 
subalpine fir. The overwhelming propor- 
51 



Hour l^ational ^arhjef 

tion of these forests, however, consists of 
that interesting tree, the lodge-pole pine. 
It bears seed every year, beginning while 
young and small. It hoards its seeds by 
keeping its tightly closed cones. When fire 
sweeps through a forest of lodge-pole pine, 
it kills the trees and melts the sealing-wax 
of the cones, releasing the seeds. These 
seeds fall upon shadeless, ash-covered 
ground, under conditions most favorable to 
their germination and growth. The lodge- 
pole pine is Nature's selected agent for 
reforestation. 

The Yellowstone is a wild-flower garden. 
Wander where you will, you have the ever- 
new charm, the finishing touch, the ever- 
refreshing radiance of the wild flowers. 
Many are brilliantly colored. There are 
species of gentians, lupines, and pyrolas. 
The columbine is there in all its graceful 
beauty. The wild rose abounds. The In- 
dian paintbrush perhaps is most abundant. 
The pentstemon is common. There are two 
species of orchids. 

52 



The Yellowstone is the greatest elk-range 
in the world. It has a numerous grizzly- 
bear population. In fact the park has so 
large and varied a population of birds and 
wild animals that in most respects it is the 
greatest wild-life preserve in the world. 

7. ENTRANCES 

To the Yellowstone wonderland there 
are four entrances. The Northern Pacific 
touches the northern entrance at Gardiner, 
Montana. This route is through the Gard- 
iner Canon to the Mammoth Hot Springs 
at Fort Yellowstone. 

The western entrance is from the Union 
Pacific at Yellowstone. This route takes 
the visitor directly to the central geyser 
basin of the Park. 

The eastern entrance is from the Burling- 
ton at Cody, the road passing the Shoshone 
Dam, crossing the Absaroka Range at 
Sylvan Pass, and making connection with 
the Park routes at the Lake Hotel. 

The southern entrance is from the Jack- 
53 



iour l^ational ^ath^ 

son Lake and Teton Mountain region and 
makes connecton with the Park routes at 
the Thumb. 

The present Park road-system, though 
incomplete, touches most of the Yellow- 
stone's greater and more lovely attractions. 
This system will be extended from time 
to time on a comprehensive plan. Supple- 
menting these roads is a system of trails, 
which needs to be greatly extended, es- 
pecially in the more mountainous parts of 
the Park. 

The Yellowstone is at present the largest 
of our sixteen National Parks, and as the 
oldest of our scenic parks, it is entitled to 
head the imposing list. As a natural won- 
derland of varied attractions there is noth- 
ing like it in the whole world. 

8. ADMINISTRATIVE HISTORY 

The early administrative history of the 
Yellowstone National Park, and that of the 
celebrated Yosemite State Park of Cali- 
fornia, are records that no real American 
54 



€fj0 WtlloWtmt l^ational ^arft 

will ever read without a sense of shame. 
Both these splendid regions were long neg- 
lected by the public and by legislators. In 
those days scenery had no standing and 
few friends. It was treated as an outcast. 
The act of dedication for the Yellowstone 
National Park made it a reservation "for 
the benefit and enjoyment of the people." 
The aim was to preserve its natural curiosi- 
ties, its forests, and its game, and to make 
such development of the Park that the peo- 
ple might conveniently and freely see and 
enjoy it. For several years Congress failed 
to provide adequate appropriations either 
for the development of the Park or for its 
protection. It was given over to the ad- 
ministration of the Secretary of the In- 
terior. Unfortunately, the act that created 
the Park contained no code of laws, did not 
define offenses, made no provision for the 
handling of legal cases or for the punishment 
of offenders. It failed to provide even the 
legal machinery necessary to enforce the 
regulations written by the Secretary of the 
55 



iour l^ational ^arhjES 

Interior. The history of the Yellowstone 
for twenty-two years after its creation is, 
as Helen Hunt said of our treatment of the 
Indian, a tale of dishonor. 

The first Superintendent of the Park was 
Nathaniel P. Langford, who had rendered 
distinctive services in having it created. 
With his hands tied he endured the posi- 
tion for five years, and did heroic work in 
trying to suppress license, start develop- 
ment, and lay a broad foundation for the 
future welfare of the enterprise. The in- 
terests fought him, and the public con- 
demned him for inefficiency for which the 
public itself, and not he, was to blame. 

Hunters invaded the Park and slaught- 
ered game. One company almost secured 
leaseholds on extensive land-areas which 
would have given them a dangerous monop- 
oly of all the leading attractions. A water- 
power company almost obtained title to 
Yellowstone Falls. Many attempts were 
made to run a railroad through the Park. 
A few people, at enormous sacrifice and 
56 



through heroic and efficient efforts, saved 
it in its primitive naturalness. Among 
those who splendidly helped was George 
Bird Grinnell. At last Congress became in- 
terested, and in 1883-84 helpful legislation 
was passed. 

On August 20, 1886, came a change for 
the better. The Secretary of the Interior 
availed himself of legislation that Congress 
had recently passed and called upon the 
War Department for assistance. Captain 
Moses Harris, with the title of Acting Super- 
intendent, became the first military com- 
mander of the Park. Reforms were in- 
augurated, and development was begun. 
This military control has continued for 
twenty years, and for the most part the 
results have been satisfactory. General 
Chittenden, of the Engineer Corps of the 
Army, developed the present road-system. 
The character of the various military super- 
intendents of the Park has been good, and 
the achievements of these men have won 
the praise even of those who are against the 
57 



iour i^ationai i^arft^ 

use of soldiers or military regulations in the 
Park government. I am particularly im- 
pressed with the work of the last com- 
mander, Colonel L. M. Brett. The honor, 
ability, and peculiar characteristics of these 
military commanders have enabled them 
to do excellent work. On October i, 191 6, 
all troops were withdrawn from the Park 
and a force of civilian rangers was organ- 
ized. 

9. LOST IN THE WILDERNESS 

The Washburn-Doane Expedition of 
1870, which proved a large factor in the 
creation of the Yellowstone National Park, 
was marked by one of the most extraor- 
dinary incidents in the annals of the Ameri- 
can frontier. 

Truman C. Everts, a former United 
States Assessor for Montana, was a mem- 
ber of the party. On September 9, he be- 
came separated from it and for thirty-seven 
days wandered in the Yellowstone wilder- 
ness. 

58 



€fjc iellotD^tone i^ational ^ath 

Everts was wholly unfit to take care cA 
himself in the wilderness. He was a city 
man, without experience in the wilds, 
timid, unresourceful, and very near-sighted. 
The first day he lost his glasses. The sec- 
ond day, while he was dismounted, his 
horse took fright and ran away with his 
traveling equipment. He tried for hours to 
capture the horse, but failed. Everts was 
left alone on foot in the rough country 
south of Yellowstone Lake, without food, 
gun, axe, blankets, or matches. 

He went back to where he had fastened 
notes upon trees; but these had not been 
seen by his companions. By this time it was 
mid-afternoon. Toward evening he realized 
that he was completely lost. 

Without food, fire, or shelter, he passed 
the night in the depths of a forest. There 
was a hard frost. Coyotes howled, and 
lions cried. His overwrought imagination 
conjured up endless terrors and dangers 
from the strange and ever-changing sounds 
of the wilderness. 

59 



iour l^ational ^axh$ 

On the third day out, Everts started off 
to follow, as he supposed, the direction 
taken by his companions, but took the op- 
posite direction. He passed near numbers 
of animals. Finally he came to a small lake 
around which were many hot springs. In 
the water were many wild-fowl. He was 
starving, but had nothing with which to 
kill game. Fearful as he was of Indians, 
hunger led him to hope that he might meet 
them. 

The loss of his eyeglasses was calamitous. 
Out in the lake he saw what he took for a 
boat coming to land, and he joyfully has- 
tened to the shore to meet it. But when his 
"boat" took wings and transformed itself 
into a huge pelican, he was unnerved and 
almost lost hope. 

At this lake he fortunately discovered a 
species of thistle with large edible roots, 
and these formed his principal sustenance 
for weeks. He took up the uncertain fight 
for primitive necessities. At the lake he 
became afraid, imagining that a mountain 
60 



€6e idlotD^tone l^ational ^arfe 

lion was near. He climbed into a tree and 
remained there most of the night. When at 
last he descended, half frozen, a heavy 
September snowstorm was coming on. 

To avoid freezing to death, he built a 
rude shelter of boughs over one of the hot 
springs. In the boiling water he cooked 
his thistle-roots. For several days he re- 
mained in this shelter; then, realizing that 
if he stayed longer he might perish in an- 
other storm, he traveled on. 

Day after day, Everts hoped that his 
companions would find him. During two 
weeks they searched diligently, leaving 
small deposits of food at places where they 
thought he might pass. They fired guns, 
put up signs, and lighted fires on the 
heights; but the rough, wooded nature of 
the country, and Everts's near-sightedness, 
made these efforts unavailing. Reluctantly 
his friends gave up the search and went on; 
but when they reached a settlement they 
sent back a rescue party. 

Necessity stimulates thought. The only 
6i 



iour l^ational ^arft^ 

thing remaining in Everts's pockets was 
a little field-glass. Remembering that a 
lens would concentrate the sun's rays, he 
concluded that with his glass he might 
start a fire, and in this he succeeded. 

Onward he traveled. If a day came with 
the sky overcast, he had to camp at night 
without a fire. To relieve the discomfort of 
this, for several days he carried a brand, but 
this burned his hands and smoked his eyes 
so severely, and so often went out, that at 
last he abandoned it and depended entirely 
upon the lens. One afternoon he stopped 
with the intention of building a fire. But 
the lens was missing. Almost exhausted, 
he dragged himself back to his last camp, 
and there, fortunately, the lens was found. 

During a storm a benumbed bird fell 
into his hands, and he devoured it raw. 
In vain he tried to catch fish. As he stood 
on the margin of Yellowstone Lake, a gull's 
wing drifted ashore. This supplied his 
only satisfying meal. It was instantly 
stripped of its feathers, pounded between 
62 



stones, and boiled in a tin can which Everts 
had found. Hastily devouring the unsalted 
soup, he lay down and slept for several 
hours. 

He had resolution and will-power, and 
greatly needed them. His stomach re- 
belled at thistle-roots. His mind wandered. 
He lost track of time. But his determina- 
tion drove him on, though he was growing 
weaker each day. During the thirty-seven 
days he had traveled in a northerly course 
from south of Yellowstone Park to the sum- 
mit of one of the bluffs, several miles to 
the east of Mammoth Hot Springs. Here, 
barely alive, he was rescued by two men 
of the final searching party sent out by his 
companions. 

Everts not only recovered, but lived for 
thirty-one years after his terrible experi- 
ence, dying at the age of eighty-five. One 
of the peaks in the Park, Mount Everts, 
is named for him. 

The adventures of Colter and Everts are 
inspiring achievements. They give thrill- 
63 



four i^ational ^ath^ 

ing views of primitive life, and are strik- 
ing instances of men, empty-handed, suc- 
cessfully combating Nature. The stabil- 
ity, the will-power, the insistent, tenacious 
hopefulness of these men were extraor- 
dinary. Courageously they met and mas- 
tered the swiftly coming obstacles and 
afflictions that fate thrust thick and fast 
upon them. Their deeds are a part of our 
helpful heritage in the Yellowstone won- 
derland. 



II 

THE YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK 

On the western slope of the Sierra, 
about one hundred and forty miles east 
of San Francisco, lies the Yosemite Na- 
tional Park, with an area of 1124 square 
miles. It is slightly larger than Rhode 
Island. Its lower sections on the west have 
an altitude of about 3000 feet. From this 
elevation it rises through bold terraces 
into the High Sierra. Mount Lyell has 
an altitude of 13,090 feet; Mount Dana, 
13,050 feet. Gibbs Mountain and a num- 
ber of other peaks have slightly lower al- 
titudes. The elevational range, then, of 
this one Park runs through 10,000 feet, or 
nearly two vertical miles. 

It is one of the scenic wonders of the 
world. Within it are many attractions, 
each great by itself, and all more impres- 
sive in their splendid grouping. 
65 



iour i^ational garfejer 

Its glacial landscapes are magnificent 
and startling. Here the Ice King, the 
great landscape engineer, did work im- 
mensely bold and enchanting. An array of 
stupendous rock sculpture remains almost 
untarnished. Scores of lovely alpine lakes 
in solid rock lie open to the sun. The wild- 
flower population numbers more than a 
thousand varieties. It has scores of varie- 
ties of wild birds and many kinds of wild 
life. World-famous are its waterfalls. 

Two of the greatest of mountain rivers 
rise in the Park and cross it from east to 
west. Each of them falls several thousand 
feet within the Park. Crossing centrally 
through the northern section is the Tuo- 
lumne. Passing miles of alpine rock and 
meadow, it roars through the rugged Tuo- 
lumne Canon, and when well across the 
Park it sweeps through the majestic gorge 
known as the Hetch-Hetchy Valley. 

Paralleling this stream at the distance 
of about ten miles is the intense Merced. 
This and its tributaries are signally rich 
66 




By permission of the yational Park Service, Department of the Inte 



BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF YOSEMITE VALLEY LOOKING EASTWARD TO THE 
CREST OF THE SIERRA NEVADA 

Merced River. 

El Capitan Bridge and Moraine. 

Big Oak Flat Road. 

Wawona Road. 

Bridal Veil Falls. 

Cathedral Rocks. 

Cathedral Spires. 

Sentinel Rock. 

Glacier Point. 

Sentinel Dome. 

Libert J' Cap. 

Mount Broderick. 

Little Yosemite Valley. 



I. 


Clouds' Rest. 


14. 


2. 


Half Dome. 


15. 


3- 


Mount Watkms. 


16. 


4- 


Basket Dome. 


17. 


S- 


North Dome. 


18. 


6. 


Washington Column. 


19. 


y. 


Royal Arches. 


20. 


8. 


Mirror Lake and mouth of Tenaya Canon. 


21. 


9- 


Yosemite Village. 


22. 


0. 


Head of Yosemite Falls. 


23- 


I. 


Easle Peak (the Three Brothers). 


24. 


2. 


El Capitan. 


25- 


3- 


Ribbon Falls. 


26. 



€6e fojBfemite i^ational ^arft 

in lakes and waterfalls, and they flow 
among stupendous and astounding glacial 
landscapes. At last the Merced flows se- 
renely through the world-famous valley, 
the matchless Yosemite Gorge. 

No name can suggest the amazing com- 
binations of vastness and beauty seen in 
this rocky passage; the name "valley" is 
altogether lacking in significance. It may 
be described as having gorge walls with 
a valley floor. The walls have unshat- 
tered solidity, great height, and almost 
true verticalness. They bear the marks 
of individuality, and the valley-like floor 
shows original character. 

The Yosemite Valley is obviously the 
greatest, as it is the most celebrated, scene 
in the Park. It is about seven miles long, 
approximately one mile wide, and about 
three fourths of a mile deep. The floor is 
nearly level and lies at an altitude of four 
thousand feet. It is well grassed, adorned 
with trees and groves, and glorified from 
end to end by the Merced River. The nearly 
^1 



iour l^ational ^ath^ 

vertical walls rise mainly in smooth, sub- 
stantial masses from twenty-five hundred 
to nearly five thousand feet. Waterfalls 
from the heights above make the wild 
plunge over the rim down to the floor of 
the valley. 

This gorge is countersunk into a plateau. 
It extends from east to west. The western 
and open end has an impressive entrance. 
On the left, El Capitan raises his colossal 
figure thirty-three hundred feet in smooth 
and simple massiveness. On the right, over 
the front face of the mountain wall op- 
posite, flutter several hundred feet of 
Bridal Veil Falls. Then in order, on the 
right south wall, Cathedral Spires rise high 
above the valley ; then Sentinel Rock ; then 
stupendous Glacier Point. Farther east on 
the south wall, Half Dome stands up forty- 
five hundred feet, the most impressive fig- 
ure on the valley rim. Farther along, on the 
right or south side of the valley, is the cele- 
brated Clouds* Rest. On the left or north 
wall stand the Three Brothers. By these 
68 



€lje io^emite i^ational ^arfe 

the snowy stream of the Yosemite Water- 
fall comes down. About halfway up the 
valley on the left are the Washington Col- 
umn and the Royal Arches. Then, along 
the left or north wall in succession, rise 
North Dome, Basket Dome, and Mount 
Watkins. The upper part of the valley 
divides into three depressions or gorges. 
The north one is Tenaya Canon, the cen- 
tral one is Little Yosemite Valley, and from 
this branches the southerly one, lUilouette 
Canon. Each of these canons is a wonder 
by itself. 

Following is one of the most descriptive 
and eloquent tributes ever paid to this un- 
rivaled array of stupendous nature stat- 
uary: — 

Every rock in its walls seems to glow with 
life. Some lean back in majestic repose; 
others, absolutely sheer or nearly so for thou- 
sands of feet, advance beyond their compan- 
ions in thoughtful attitudes, giving welcome to 
storms and calms alike, seemingly aware, yet 
heedless, of everything going on about them. 
Awful in stem, immovable majesty, how softly 
69 



iour i^ational ^ath^ 

these rocks are adorned, and how fine and re- 
assuring the company they keep: their feet 
among beautiful groves and meadows, their 
brows in the sky, a thousand flowers leaning 
confidingly against their feet, bathed in floods 
of water, floods of light, while the snow and 
waterfalls, the winds and avalanches and 
clouds shine and sing and wreathe about them 
as the years go by, and myriads of small 
winged creatures — birds, bees, butterflies — 
give glad animation and help to make all the 
air into music. Down through the middle of 
the valley flows the crystal Merced, River of 
Mercy, peacefully quiet, reflecting lilies and 
trees and the onlooking rocks ; things frail and 
fleeting and types of endurance meeting here 
and blending in countless forms, as if into this 
one mountain mansion Nature had gathered 
her choicest treasures, to draw her lovers into 
close and confiding communion with her. 
(John Muir, in "The Yosemite.") 



I. ICE-KING TOPOGRAPHY 

The splendid scenic endowment of the 
Yosemite Valley, its stupendous architec- 
ture and vast sculpturing, its natural land- 
scape engineering, are largely triumphs of 
the ice age. Many theories have been ad- 
70 




HALF DOME, YOSEMITE 



€f)e io^emite l^ational ^arft 

vanced to account for the origin and the 
extraordinary features of this valley, es- 
pecial prominence being given to subsid- 
ence, uplift, explosion, with earthquake 
modifications and influences of violent cat- 
aclysmic nature. Stream erosion has been 
strongly urged. All these theories attribute 
minor influences to one or more other 
factors. 

The theory now generally accepted gives 
ice the leading part in the scooping of the 
valley and the creation of its wondrous 
forms. There is much evidence to support 
this conclusion. The ice theory is cham- 
pioned by John Muir, by Clarence King, 
and by F. E. Matthes. Matthes and Muir 
probably have made the most careful and 
exhaustive studies of the geological history 
of the valley. 

This famous depression is of varying 
width. Examination of its walls shows that 
in the wider places it is composed of fissured 
rock that was more readily carried away by 
the ice than the adjoining unfissured rock- 
71 



iour i^ational ^arh^ 

sections. These resisting unfissured places 
jut into the valley. 

Erosion by ice probably was preceded 
and somewhat guided by stream erosion. 
But this ice sculpture, the rock-forms and 
features wrought, must have been deter- 
mined in a marked measure by the rock- 
structure. That is to say, the dense quality 
of the rock, the number and the position 
of the cleavage joints, or their absence in 
the rock, were factors that helped determine 
the rock-forms of Yosemite. Other factors 
since the ice age have altered or modified 
this glacial topography. 

It is certain that a vast ice-stream poured 
over the walls and forced through this 
valley. This is shown in the rock-groov- 
ings and perched boulders high on the walls, 
and also by the massive moraine which 
dams the outlet of the valley. It appears 
certain that this must have been left when 
the ice vanished ; and apparently it formed 
a lake that filled the entire valley nearly 
to the height of the dam. The lake finally 
72 



€Je io^cmitc i^ational ^arft 

filled with sediment and sand, its surface 
corresponding approximately with the pres- 
ent surface of the valley. The valley floor 
is noticeably smooth, and its margins along 
the bottoms of the walls are comparatively 
free from rock-debris. 

The landscape of the entire Yosemite 
National Park is preeminently glacial. Ice- 
polished mountains and hundreds of sculp- 
tured figures of vast size are a part of the 
matchless exhibit of the ice age in this 
wonderland. Polished domes predominate. 
Much of the rock-surface was dense gran- 
ite comparatively free from cleavage lines, 
soft materials, or stratification. The forms 
made by the ice in these have endured. 
Since the ice age the softer and more fis- 
sured rocks have been far more changed by 
the various erosive forces than the more 
resistant rock of the domes and other sculp- 
tured forms. 

Little Yosemite Valley is essentially 
similar to the Greater Yosemite in features 
and also in the manner of creation. Its 
73 



Hour l^ational ^atk0 

walls are from fifteen hundred to two 
thousand feet high, its length is about three 
miles, its width one half-mile. Its floor, 
like that of the Greater Yosemite, was for 
a time a lake. In origin and history, the 
Hetch-Hetchy Valley, too, is almost iden- 
tical with the Yosemite. 

Nature often changes the scene, often 
puts on a new landscape. The forces of 
erosion are steadily at work; most of them 
work slowly, but sometimes a change is 
wrought suddenly. 

When the Sierra was first upheaved it 
was more or less tilted, terraced, and fis- 
sured. The surface was uneven. The pres- 
ent topography is the product of a long and 
complicated series of events. It has been 
wrought out by many erosive forces. It 
probably has been acted upon by two or 
more ice ages, but the last age shaped the 
splendid topography of the Yosemite that 
is attracting the world to the scene. 

The eroding power of ice is determined 
by its thickness, that is to say, by its weight. 
74 



€f)e io^cmite l^ational ^ath 

The small, shallow glaciers wear much more 
slowly than the deep ice-streams that bear 
heavily upon the surface passed over. The 
ancient glaciers of the region took on vast 
proportions. An enormous and deep ice- 
field accumulated from the snows of 
Mounts Dana, Lyell, Gibbs, McClure, 
Conness, and other peaks. Flowing west- 
ward, it came in contact with Mount Hoff- 
man, against which it divided. The right 
section flowed down into the Tuolumne; 
the left, a branch about two miles wide, 
swept upward, climbing about five hun- 
dred feet over the pass and descending 
upon the Lake Tenaya region. 

Apparently, five glacier streams united 
in the Yosemite Valley. They not only 
filled it but deeply overflowed the highest 
points on its walls. Passing out of the lower 
end of the valley, the united glacier was 
forced to climb upward several hundred 
feet. 

About twenty-five small glaciers still 
remain in the Yosemite National Park. 
75 



iour l^ational ^ath^ 

There are about two hundred and fifty 
glacier lakes, mostly small. Others have 
filled with sediment and are hidden and 
forgotten. Lake Tenaya, the Lake-of- 
the-Shining-Rocks, has a surrounding of 
dense rock-masses that still show the 
rounded form and the high polish given by 
the ice. 

2. TREES AND FORESTS 

The tree growth and the forest arrange- 
ment in the Yosemite National Park are 
among the grandest of such features on the 
globe, and they form one of the chief at- 
tractions of this heroic realm. The trees 
grow to enormous size and are distributed 
and grouped with crags, meadows, ter- 
races, canons — all in unmatched wild, 
artistic charm and sublimity. Though some 
areas are covered with growths tall and 
dense, they are free from gloom, and every- 
where one may walk freely through them. 
They are broken and brightened with 
numerous sunny openings. This splendid 
76 



landscape gardening extends over the 
greater portion of the Park. 

The sequoia, the largest and most im- 
posing tree, is found in the lower reaches 
of the Park. Other characteristic trees are 
the sugar pine, king of the pines; the Doug- 
las spruce, king of the spruces; and the 
hemlock, one of the loveliest trees upon the 
earth. 

The Park has three groves of Big Trees 
(sequoias) — the Mariposa Grove, the Tuo- 
lumne Grove, and the Merced Grove, all 
of the species Sequoia gigantea. The Mer- 
ced and Tuolumne groves are near the 
western boundary of the Park, several 
miles north of El Portal Station, while the 
Mariposa Grove is in the southwestern 
corner, about fifteen miles southeast of El 
Portal. The Tuolumne Grove has but about 
thirty-five trees, and the Merced Grove 
fewer than one hundred. 

The Mariposa Grove contains about five 
hundred and fifty trees. Among these is 
the Grizzly Giant, which, according to the 
77 



computation of Galen Clark, is six thou- 
sand years old. It has a diameter of nearly 
thirty feet and a height of two hundred and 
four feet. Evidently it was once much 
taller; its top probably was wrecked by 
lightning. Through the Wawona tree a 
roadway has been cut. A great number of 
these trees are between two hundred and 
twenty-five and two hundred and seventy- 
five feet in height. A few rise above three 
hundred feet. 

In this Park are about thirty species 
of trees besides those above mentioned. 
Among them are a cedar and a juniper; two 
silver firs; yellow, lodge-pole, and six other 
species of pines. Among the broad-leafed 
trees are the oak, maple, aspen, laurel, and 
dogwood. There are forests of firs and lodge- 
pole pines. 

The sugar pine grows to enormous size 
and has a noble appearance. Its cones are 
the largest produced by any conifer, oc- 
casionally reaching the length of nearly 
two feet. The yellow pine rivals the sugar 
78 



pine in size and grows from four to ten feet 
in diameter and from one hundred and fifty 
to two hundred and twenty-five feet high. 
Among the flowering shrubs are the dog- 
wood, manzanita, California lilac, wild sy- 
ringa, chokeberry, thimbleberry, and Cali- 
fornia laurel. 

I have seen the trees diminish in number, 
give place to wide prairies, and restrict their 
growth to the border of streams; . . . have 
seen grassy plains change into a brown and 
sere desert; . . . and have reached at length 
the westward slopes of the high mountain bar- 
rier which, refreshed by the Pacific, bear the 
noble forests of the Sierra Nevada and the 
Coast Range, and among them trees which 
are the wonder of the world. (Asa Gray.) 

3. PLANT LIFE 

The Yosemite ferns, forests, and flowers 
are growing almost exclusively in glacial 
soil. Nearly all of the soil in the Park is 
rock-flour that was ground by glaciers, and 
in part distributed by them. Landslides 
and running water distributed most of the 
remainder. 

79 



iour Ipational ^arh^ 

The Park has an altltudinal range of 
nearly two miles, with them any climates, 
and consequently numerous varieties of 
flora. These are encouraged by varied life 
zones that result from combinations of 
sunny and shady mountain-sides, uneven- 
ly distributed moisture, and the different 
temperatures that prevail between the alti- 
tudes of three thousand and thirteen thou- 
sand feet. 

Here and there in the Park wild flowers 
may be found in bloom every month of the 
year. Among the common flowers of the 
middle and lower sections are seen the 
shooting-star, evening-primrose, tiger lily, 
yellow pond-lily, Mariposa lily, black-eyed 
Susan, lupine, paintbrush, yarrow, and 
snow-plant. There are violets, blue and 
red, a number of pentstemons, the lark- 
spur, golden-rod, several orchids, and the 
wild rose. 

Many of the showy, crowded gardens of 
luxuriant wild-flower growths are in the 
moist fir forests. Among the tall flowers in 
80 



€]Je ^n^tmitt Rational ^atk 

these gardens are columbines, larkspurs, 
paintbrushes, lupines, and one of the lily 
families. The famous, fragrant Washington 
lily brightens the open woods; in places it 
grows to the height of eight feet. 

The snow-plant is a curiosity and at- 
tracts by its brilliancy of color. The plant 
and bloom are blood-red, but this herb is 
as cold and rigid as an icicle. It is not a 
parasite, but is isolated and appears to hold 
itself aloof from all the world. When caught 
by late snows it makes a startling figure, 
but it does not grow up through the snow. 

In the alpine heights are many healthy 
plants: the lovely arctic daisy, phlox, gen- 
tian, lupine, potentllla, harebell, moun- 
tain columbine, astragalus, and numerous 
other bright flowers. They grow in clusters 
and in large ragged gardens, and in places 
are low-growing and extremely dwarfed. 

Besides Its wild small plants and the 
blooming shrubbery the Park has a glori- 
ous wealth of tree blossom. The hemlocks, 
pines, firs, and spruces have a jeweled 
8i 



wealth of blue, purple, red, and yellow 
bloom. 

May and June are the months most 
crowded with blossoms, but many come in 
the autumn, mingling serenely with the 
calm, sunny days, the evergreen groves, 
the tanned grass, and the masses of red and 
yellow leaves. In May and June the water- 
falls are at their best, and the birds are most 
songful. 

The Yosemite National Park is perhaps the 
most delightful region in all the world for the 
study of plant life. The wide variety of condi- 
tions here found, ranging from the hot and 
desiccated slopes of the brush-clad foothills to 
the cold, bleak summits above timber line, the 
abode of glaciers and perpetual snow, gives to 
the flora an exceedingly diverse and inter- 
esting character. Innumerable springs, creeks, 
rivers, ponds, and lakes provide suitable habi- 
tats for moisture-loving plants. Rocky out- 
croppings, enormous cliffs, and gravelly ridges 
accommodate species adapted to such situa- 
tions. The irregular topography yields south- 
ward facing slopes which receive the full effect 
of the sun's rays, as well as northward slopes 
where the sun's rays are little felt, where it is 
82 



€lje f o^emite i^atxonal ^arh 

therefore cool, moist, and shady. The altitude 
ranges from two thousand five hundred feet 
in the foothill belt to thirteen thousand and 
ninety feet along the crest of the Sierra Nevada. 
All of these factors conspire to produce a re- 
markably varied and interesting vegetation. 
The richness of this flora is indicated by the 
nine hundred and fifty-five species and varie- 
ties here described. The total number repre- 
sented in the Yosemite National Park is con- 
siderably greater, since the grasses, sedges, 
and rushes are here omitted. Including an 
estimate for these, it is safe to assume that the 
number of species and varieties of flowering 
plants and ferns to be found within the one 
thousand one hundred and twenty-four square 
miles of the park is not less than about 
one thousand two hundred. ("A Yosemite 
Flora," by Harvey Monroe Hall and Carlotta 
Case Hall.) 

4. THE REALM OF FALLING WATER 

The Yosemite National Park is enlivened 
and splendidly enriched with mountain- 
high waterfalls and with wildly coasting 
and cascading streams. These world-fa- 
mous falls gain an added attractiveness 
through the magnificence of the walls over 
83 



four i^ational ^arfe^r 

which they plunge. In places the walls, 
clean-cut and smooth, rise sheer for more 
than one thousand feet. Here and there 
the line of a wall is broken with a vast 
niche or columnar buttress. 

A number of mountain streams and 
rivers in the Yosemite deliberately make 
their way to the brink of a vast gorge that 
has its brow in the sky, and there, in full 
self-control, they plunge over. 

Jutting rocks, and smooth steep inclines 
throw streams into wild, uncontrolled ex- 
citement. But where a vertical river drops 
its fluttering current against a magnificent 
mountain- wall, everything is harmonious 
and controlled, and the stream appears to 
have the sublime composure of a Big Tree. 

In a stream-channel water goes forward 
with crowding intermittent rushes. These, 
in plunging over a brink, break up into 
numerous closely falling rockets or comet- 
like masses, each tailed with spray. These 
in turn separate and divide into other such 
masses, with spray and water-dust. 
84 



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UPPER AND LOWER YOSEiMlTE FALLS 
Total fall 2600 feet 



€f)c io^emite i^ational ^ath 

In a drop of several hundred feet a mass 
of water is likely to expand to several times 
its width at the brink. This expansion 
varies with the volume of water, the height 
of the drop, and the direction and speed of 
resisting wind-currents. 

Swaying and bending are further attrac- 
tions of waterfalls. Bridal Veil Falls often 
swings and sways gently from side to side. 
This movement is sometimes accompanied 
by lacy flutterings at one or more places on 
the spray-wreathed white fall. Numerous 
falls in the Yosemite are high and spread 
widely in descending, and frequently the 
fall dances splendidly as its white, airy 
mass keeps time to the changing movements 
of the wind. 

Many of these high falls are accompanied 
at times by a fluttering of numerous rain- 
bows. These flaunt, shift, and dart like 
great hummingbirds. At the Lower Yo- 
semite, Bridal Veil, and Vernal Falls these 
rainbows sometimes momentarily form a 
complete circle of color. By these, too, 
85 



iour i^ational ^arh^ 

the moon produces similar though softer, 
stranger effects. Perl, ips the most pleas- 
ing, delicate, and novel effects in lunar 
rainbows are to be had about the foot of 
Yosemite Falls. 

The slender Ribbon Fall has a vertical 
drop of twenty-three hundred feet; the 
Upper Yosemite, about sixteen hundred 
feet. Nevada Falls is about six hundred 
feet high. Vernal Falls is one hundred feet 
wide at the top and drops three hundred 
feet. The Vernal and Nevada Falls are in 
the midst of magnificent and novel rock 
scenery. The Illilouette Fall is about six 
hundred feet high and is one of the most 
beautiful in the Park. 

The Tueeulala and Wapama Falls in 
Hetch-Hetchy have their own individ- 
ual setting and behavior. The Wapama, 
though lacking the verticality of the Upper 
Yosemite Falls, carries a greater volume 
of water. Yosemite Creek is a true moun- 
tain stream. In its first ten miles it goes 
through a number of zones, passes a variety 
86 



€Jje io^emite l^ational ^arfe 

of plant life, and makes a descent of six 
thousand feet. One third of this descent is 
in the Falls of the Yosemite. 

John Muir tells us that one windy day 
the Upper Falls was struck by an upward 
wind pressure that bent and drove the 
water back over the brow of the cliff. The 
wind held back the water so that the fall 
was cut entirely in two for a few minutes. 
But more wonderful than this was one day 
when the wind struck the Upper Falls at 
a point about halfway down and there 
stopped and supported its falling waters. 
For more than a minute the water piled up 
in an enormous conical accumulation about 
seven hundred feet high. All the while the 
water poured over steadily from above, and 
the entire mass rested upon the elastic but 
invisible air. Then came a wild collapse. 

At the foot of some of these waterfalls 
vast ice-cones are sometimes formed. Oc- 
casionally these spread out over a large 
area and rise to the height of several hun- 
dred feet. 

87 



iour l^ational ^arft^ 

Among the numerous cascades in the 
Park, one of the most precipitous is the 
Sentinel, which endlessly comes tumbling 
down over a steep rough incline of thirty- 
two hundred feet. In the upper end of the 
Tuolumne Canon the Tuolumne River 
rushes over inclined rocks and forms one 
of the most scenic rapids in the world. 

5. SEEING YOSEMITE 

I wish that all who visit the Yosemite 
National Park would have a view from the 
top of Mount Hoffman. I wish also that 
they might see Tuolumne Meadows, wan- 
der over the near-by alpine moorlands, and 
stand in the center of Hetch-Hetchy Valley. 

Even the most flying visit to the Yosem- 
ite Valley should include a visit to Lake 
Tenaya, Little Yosemite, Nevada, and 
Vernal Falls, and, last, and in some re- 
spects most important, a view across and 
down into the valley from Glacier Point on 
the south side, and also from the summit 
of Eagle Peak on the opposite side. 
88 




< 

a, 

< *^ 

2; o 

w 2; 

-J ^ 
w 

CO 

O 

>< 



€J)e io^emite l^ational ^arft 

From the first, John Muir called Hetch- 
Hetchy the Tuolumne Yosemite and con- 
sidered it a rival of the Yosemite Valley 
and "a wonderfully exact counterpart of 
the Merced Yosemite." It is less than half 
the size of the Yosemite, and its walls are 
about a thousand feet lower. Two im- 
mense rocks stand at the entrance. On the 
south wall is Koloma, a massive rock 
twenty-three hundred feet high. On the 
north wall is an almost sheer front of rock 
that rises eighteen hundred feet. Over this 
plunges Tueeulala Falls with a drop of 
ten hundred feet. This fall is somewhat 
like Bridal Veil, but excels it both in beauty 
and in height. Over the same wall, a short 
distance eastward, tumbles Wapama Falls, 
carrying a greater volume of water than 
the Yosemite Falls. 

Like the Yosemite Valley, Hetch-Hetchy 
is a combination of stupendous rock-walls 
that rise from a quiet grassy valley which 
is beautiful with trees and groves and a 
clear mountain stream. 
89 



four i^ational ^arft^er 

The Parsons Memorial Lodge at Soda 
Springs is an excellent stopping-place from 
which to explore the alpine scenes of the 
Yosemite National Park. It is owned by 
the Sierra Club, and was built in honor of 
Edward T. Parsons, who for years was one 
of the club's leading members. The Lodge 
is situated on the edge of the celebrated 
Tuolumne Meadows, by the Tioga Road, 
and is within a few miles of many cele- 
brated scenes and view-points. It is about 
twenty-five miles northeast of the Yosem- 
ite Valley. 

At Soda Springs, John Muir often had a 
central camp. He long ago recommended 
the place for an excursion center. It lies at 
an altitude of about nine thousand feet. 
One cannot too often see the near-by 
smooth, wide Tuolumne Valley with its 
surrounding world of mountain-peaks. It 
is in the very heart of the Yosemite High 
Sierra. By it is an extensive and splendid 
alpine zone. Here are lakes, moory spaces, 
polished pavements and domes, and, in its 
90 



€]Je io^cmtte i^ational ^arfe 

lower regions, canons, waterfalls, cascades, 
groves, and wild alpine gardens colored and 
made charming by dainty brilliant flowers. 
To the north lies Mount Conness; east- 
ward, Mounts Dana, Lyell, Gibbs, Mam- 
moth, and McClure; southward, the Ca- 
thedral Range; and westward ice- polished 
Mount Hoffman. 

Surely the Parsons Memorial Lodge will 
become a world-celebrated rendezvous for 
mountain-climbers and for those who de- 
sire to see mountain scenery where it is 
peculiarly lovely and sublime. A number 
of trails converge at this point. It will be 
interesting to follow the future of the Lodge 
and to observe the thousands of enthusi- 
astic people who will enjoy the surround- 
ing scenes. 

About twelve miles to the west of it is 
Mount Hoffman, which rises near the center 
of the Park and is probably the most com- 
manding view-point in it. This is one of the 
places that visitors to the Park should not 
fail to enjoy. 

91 



Hour l^ational ^axh^ 

Only a few miles to the southwest of the 
Lodge is Cathedral Peak. This imposing 
ice-burnished structure is one of the most 
celebrated pieces of nature statuary in the 
Park. Near by is Cathedral Lake. About 
fifteen miles to the south of the Lodge is a 
region of burnished rocks, numerous lakes, 
canons, and moraines — a wonderful array 
of glacial stories. This region is several 
miles southwest of Mount Lyell. 

Mountain-climbers will find Dana Moun- 
tain, to the east of the Lodge, an excellent 
view-point. To see a sunrise from it is a 
rare enjoyment. From its summit one looks 
down on the Mono Desert, the lake, and 
the craters. It is an easy one-day journey 
from the Lodge across Tioga Pass to Mono 
Lake. 

At the door of the Lodge are the mag- 
nificent Tuolumne Meadows. There are a 
series of them, the lower one being about 
four miles long and about half a mile wide. 
Its meadowy expanse is in places attrac- 
tively sprinkled with trees, and across it, 
92 



€I)e Hojefemite l^ational i^arft 

with beautiful folds and hesitating bends, 
lingers the Tuolumne River. 

The wonderful rapids in the upper end of 
the canon of the Tuolumne are perhaps the 
greatest in the world. The white and rush- 
ing river is intensely impressive. Some dis- 
tance below the Lodge begins the Big 
Tuolumne Canon. It is eighteen miles long 
and terminates in the Hetch-Hetchy Val- 
ley. A journey through this is a joy for the 
mountaineer. The canon is comparatively 
narrow for its depth, which in places is one 
mile. There are a few romantic parklike 
openings along the way, and at some points 
the statuary is stupendous and magnificent. 

6. HISTORY OF YOSEMITE 

Indians formerly called the Yosemite 
Valley Ah-wah-nee, meaning "grassy val- 
ley." Early one morning a young brave 
started for Mirror Lake to spear fish. On 
the way he encountered a huge grizzly bear. 
He fought the beast with his spear and a 
club. After a long and furious battle, in 
93 



iour i^ational 3^ath0 

which he was badly wounded, the bear was 
killed. For this exploit the Indian was 
named Yosemite, which means a full-grown 
grizzly bear. This name was transmitted 
to his children and eventually given to the 
entire tribe of Indians inhabiting the val- 
ley. 

The Yosemite Valley was first made 
known to the public by Major James D. 
Savage and Captain John Boling, who dis- 
covered it in 1 85 1. Joseph R. Walker, 
frontiersman and explorer, claims to have 
discovered the valley in 1833. 

Tourist travel to the valley began in 
1857. It became a state park in 1864, and 
in 1890 a National Park was made around 
it. In 1905 the boundaries were changed, 
and in 1906 a vigorous state and national 
campaign was waged, under the leadership 
of John Muir, the Sierra Club, and Robert 
Underwood Johnson, which resulted in the 
entire region becoming a National Park. 

John Muir enjoyed telling of the experi- 
ence of an English gentleman who years 
94 



I 



ago made a trip to the valley. Journeying 
from the railroad on horseback, he missed 
the way and spent a long day descending 
into gulches and caiions, then climbing out 
upon the high ridges. At last, late one eve- 
ning, he arrived on the rim of the Yosemite. 
After a swift glance down into the valley, 
he exclaimed, "Great God! have I got to 
cross this too?" 

John Lamon, a roving Westerner, was 
the first settler in the Yosemite Valley, 
where in 1859 he built a cabin, made a gar- 
den, and planted fruit-trees. He was so 
charmed with the scenery and the climate 
that he quit his roving life and here made 
his home till his death in 1876. 

The Hetch-Hetchy appears to have been 
discovered in 1850 by a hunter named 
Joseph Screech. In 1903 the San Francisco 
supervisors applied for permission to make 
commercial use of the valley by building a 
dam and making of it a reservoir. John 
Muir and the Sierra Club led the opposition 
to this. The fight went on for ten years with 
95 



four i^ational ^ath^ 

uncertain results. At times it was intense 
and bitter. Congress finally decided in 
favor of San Francisco, but up to this date 
San Francisco has not complied with the 
conditions imposed. 

In 191 5 plans were made for the improve- 
ment of the Yosemite Village. In the same 
year occurred an event of greater impor- 
tance for the Park. Chiefly through the 
efforts of Stephen T. Mather, the disused 
Tioga Road became a part of the Yosem- 
ite road-system. This road has been re- 
opened and will be a great advantage and 
convenience to Yosemite visitors. It ex- 
tends across the Park from east to west, 
passing near the Big Trees, the Parsons 
Memorial Lodge, and Tuolumne Meadows, 
invading the High Sierra, and crossing the 
range through Tioga Pass. Henceforth au- 
tomobilists from the East may leave the 
main continental highway in Nevada and 
reach the Yosemite Park via Mono Lake 
and this road. 

The name of Galen Clark is pleasantly 
96 



€l>e gojSemite i^ational 5^ath 

interwoven with the history of the Yosem- 
ite National Park. John Muir thus de- 
scribed the man: ''The best mountaineer 
I ever met, and one of the kindest and most 
amiable of all my mountain friends. . . . 
His kindness to all Yosemite visitors and 
mountaineers was marvelously constant 
and uniform." 

Galen Clark enjoyed showing people of 
all ages the various wonders of Yosemite 
Valley, never tired of answering questions, 
and endeavored carefully to explain the 
facts concerning each point of interest. 
Thousands of visitors to the valley came 
to know him intimately. He came to the 
Park to live in 1857, and for more than 
fifty years it was his permanent home. For 
twenty-four years he was a member of the 
Yosemite State Park Commission. The 
Indians of the valley were fond of him, and 
from them he gathered much interesting 
information. His serene disposition and his 
almost constant outdoor life kept his body 
and mind normal to the day of his death. 
97 



iour l^ational ^ath^ 

After he reached the age of ninety, deciding 
to become an author, he wrote and pub- 
lished three little books relating to the In- 
dians and to the natural wonders of the 
Yosemite National Park. 



Ill 

THE SEQUOIA AND THE GENERAL 
GRANT NATIONAL PARKS 

The Sequoia National Park has a 
crowded luxuriance of wild flowers. It 
abounds in varied bird-life and has a num- 
ber of wild sheep, bears, deer, and other 
animals. It has lakes, canons, and glaciated 
mountains. But the supreme attraction of 
this and the neighboring General Grant 
Park is the sequoia or Big Tree. Nowhere 
else on earth are trees found that are so 
large or so imposing. In places the Big 
Trees are attractively mixed with other 
forest trees. Besides the large aged trees, 
there are middle-aged ones, young trees, 
and seedlings. 

The General Grant Park has a sequoia 

that is thirty-five feet in diameter. This 

Park, like the Sequoia, was established 

principally to preserve Big Trees. Both 

99 



iour l^ational ^arftjB? 

became National Parks in 1890, chiefly 
through the efforts of George W. Stewart. 
The General Grant Park has an area of 
four square miles, the Sequoia Park of two 
hundred and thirty-seven square miles. 

The proposition to enlarge the Sequoia 
National Park should meet with early con- 
summation. The region would then em- 
brace about twelve hundred square miles, 
including the present General Grant and 
Sequoia Parks and Mount Whitney, the 
highest peak in the United States, exclu- 
sive of Alaska. Near Mount Whitney are a 
number of other peaks. In fact, the region 
is the highest and most rugged section of 
California. 

Says Gilbert H. Grosvenor, editor of 
"The National Geographic Magazine": — 

Switzerland, the playground of Europe, vis- 
ited annually (until 191 5) by more than one 
hundred thousand Americans, cannot com- 
pare in attractiveness with the High Sierra of 
central California. Nothing in the Alps can 
rival the famous Yosemite Valley, which is as 
unique as the Grand Canon. The view from 
100 



J>equoia anti 45meral <Btant ^atU^ 

the summit of Mount Whitney surpasses that 
from any of the peaks of Switzerland. There 
are no canons in Switzerland equal to those of 
the Kern and the King Rivers, which contain 
scores of waterfalls and roaring streams, any 
one of which in Europe would draw thousands 
of visitors annually. Many of the big yellow 
and red pines, of the juniper and cedar, eclipse 
the trees of Switzerland as completely as these 
pines are eclipsed by the giant redwoods. 

And then, as to birds and flowers, the High 
Sierra so excels the Alps that there is no com- 
parison. Never will the writer forget the 
melodies of the birds and the luxuriance of the 
meadows passed in the marches from Redwood 
Meadow to Mineral King, and then up over 
Franklin Pass; the fields of blue, red, yellow, 
orange, white, and purple flowers, all graceful 
and fragrant, or the divine dignity of the great 
Siberian Plateau, nearly eleven thousand feet 
above the sea, and yet carpeted from end to 
end with blue lupine and tiny flowers. 

From the educational point of view, the 
High Sierra so surpasses the Alps that again 
no comparison can be made. 

Magnificent is the King's River Caflon. 
The Kern River Canon is seven thousand 
feet deep; this is equal, if not superior, to 
the depth of the Grand Cafion of the Colo- 

lOI 



four i^ational garfeie? 

rado. Here is the celebrated Tehipltee 
Dome. There are numerous lakes, streams, 
waterfalls, and meadows. This was the 
original home of the golden trout. Besides 
the King's and Kern Rivers, there is the 
Kaweah. 

The glaciation of this region is on a stu- 
pendous scale and is of extraordinary in- 
terest. The peculiar topography, the heavy 
snowfall, and the character of the rocks all 
combined to cause the Ice King to execute 
wonderful works in this Park and to leave 
behind a splendid record. From the summit 
of this high region one looks into Death 
Valley, less than one hundred miles away, 
which is the lowest point in the United 
States, a section of it being three hundred 
to four hundred feet below sea-level. This 
region includes the southern extension of 
the High Sierra in California, is near the 
Nevada line, and is about one hundred 
miles north of Los Angeles. 

Clarence King, the distinguished geolo- 
gist and first Director of the United States 

I02 



Sequoia anD <^eneral <6rant ^ath^ 

Geological Survey, had a number of moun- 
tain-climbing experiences in this Greater 
Sequoia region. These are tellingly re- 
lated in that classic volume, "Mountain- 
eering in the Sierra Nevada." John Muir 
also wrote of this region, and it seems 
fitting that this enlarged reservation should 
be called the "Muir National Park." 

Here the skies and the weather are great 
changing attractions, and the big wild folk 
are alert neighbors. Here are forests made 
up of trees each of which is an heroic giant! 
Here the Ice King left vast and splendid 
stories. Here is perhaps the deepest gorge 
in this round world, and here the highest 
peak within the bounds of the States of the 
Union — a peak that commands vast and 
varied scenes. The streams and lakes are 
of the greatest. The variety of wild flowers 
is probably not equaled in any other park 
or territory. The birds, too, are numerously 
and abundantly represented. 

If I were sentenced to end my days in a 
National Park of my choosing, without the 
103 



iour l^ational ^atW 

least hesitation I should choose the region 
now proposed for the Greater Sequoia or 
Muir Park. 

THE BIG TREES 

The General Sherman is the largest tree 
on earth, and it may be the oldest living 
object that has a place in the sun. It is 
thirty-six and one-half feet in diameter and 
two hundred and eighty feet high. Nearly as 
large are the General Grant and the Grizzly 
Giant. A number of veteran sequoias are 
more than thirty feet in diameter and 
nearly three hundred feet high. Many are 
more than twenty feet in diameter, and 
thousands have a diameter of ten feet or 
more. 

The Big Tree {Sequoia gigantea) is scat- 
tered in thirty-two groves along the west- 
ern slopes of the Sierra for a distance of 
two hundred and sixty miles. Most of the 
trees are between the altitudes of five thou- 
sand and eight thousand feet. There are 
gaps of miles between groves. The south- 
104 




THE FOUR BROTHERS 
SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK 



4^equota anb (iBtnttai <Btmt ^arfe^ 

ern extension has a continuous forest for 
seventy miles, except where it is cut in two 
by canons, and it contains a majority of all 
Big Trees. There are three Big-Tree groves 
in the Yosemite National Park, one in the 
General Grant, and twelve in the Sequoia. 
One of these twelve is the famous Giant 
Forest. 

The Sequoia and General Grant Na- 
tional Parks have more than a million Big 
Trees. Of these, more than twelve thou- 
sand are ten or more feet in diameter. A 
few of these trees are upwards of three 
hundred feet high, but the majority are 
about two hundred and fifty feet. 

Galen Clark, who made a long and care- 
ful study of the Big Trees, expressed the 
opinion that the Grizzly Giant was at least 
six thousand years old. A number may be 
four thousand or more years of age, but the 
majority probably are less than three thou- 
sand. Careful counts of the annual rings 
of trees that have been felled show that a 
number of these had lived more than three 
105 



four l^ational ^ath0 

thousand years. One had more than four 
thousand annual rings. W. L. Jepson, au- 
thor of "The Trees of CaUfornia," beHeves 
that the general tendency is to exaggerate 
the age of the living Big Trees. 

These trees bear seeds each year. In a 

fruitful year a Big Tree may produce one 

million seeds. These are exceedingly small 

and light. The tree blooms in late winter, 

while the earth is still covered with snow. 

The flowers are pale green and pale yellow. 

The cones are bright green and are about 

two and one-half inches in length. They 

shed their seeds as soon as they are ripened, 

but the cones sometimes cling to the trees 

for months. If the seeds alight on freshly 

upturned soil or soil recently burned over, 

they usually sprout and grow vigorously. 

They do best in the sunlight. But if the 

seeds fall upon a grass- or trash-covered 

forest floor, they fail to sprout. 

With branches nearly to the earth, the 
outline of a young tree is that of a slender 
pyramid. As the tree ages, the lower 
1 06 



J^equoia anti <^tntteil <Btmt ^arft^ 

branches fall off. In middle-aged trees, the 
trunk commonly is free of branches from 
fifty to one hundred and fifty feet above 
the ground. The tiptop of aged trees usu- 
ally is a dead snag, surrounded by living, 
up-curved side branches from the trunk. 
The original tops of nearly all old trees 
have been smashed by lightning. 

Usually in young trees the bark is almost 
purplish; in old ones it is cinnamon-color. 
This bark is fire-resisting, is from one to 
two feet thick, and is good protection to the 
vitals of the tree. The roots are short, but 
the base of the trunk is heavily, artistically 
buttressed. 

Living or dead, the Big Tree has extra- 
ordinary durability. It has exceptional 
vitality and recuperative power. Its long 
life probably is due to the fact that it is al- 
most immune from insect pests, the most 
deadly enemies of all other kinds of trees. 
Men, fire, and lightning are the worst ene- 
mies of the Big Tree. Most of the old ones 
have had their heads shattered by lightning 
107 



four li^ational ^arh^ 

again and again, but they still insist on 
living and will produce a new top even 
though the old one is entirely smashed off. 
These trees appear to be almost immortal. 
Unless they starve or meet a violent death, 
they live on and on. 

John Muir says that the wood in the 
Big Trees has an endurance almost equal 
to that of granite, and gives the following 
illustration. He cut a piece of sound wood 
from the trunk of a fallen monarch that had 
been lying upon the earth several hundred 
years. In falling, the trunk of this Big Tree 
was cracked across in a number of places. 
Into these cracks fire ate its way each time 
a forest fire swept the locality. Each of 
these fires probably was separated from the 
following one by a number of years, and it 
probably took a great many burns to cut 
this slow-burning wood into sections. But 
at last this was done. Between the ends of 
two of these sections a fir tree took root and 
grew. After all these years, and after the 
fir tree had lived three hundred and eighty 
io8 



Sequoia anti 4Bmtta\ oBrant ^ath0 

years, the sections of the Big Tree still lay 
upon the ground, apparently as sound as 
the day the tree fell. 

All Big-Tree groves appear to have gone 
through forest fires. It is probable that 
most of these groves have been repeatedly 
fire-swept. Many of the trees show fire- 
scars that cannot be entirely healed for 
centuries. 

The Big Tree has been called the no- 
blest of a noble race. Its enormous size, 
its excellent proportions, 1 its serenity, its 
steadfastness, its age, make it the most im- 
pressive living object. John Muir, in com- 
menting on the imperishable nature of 
the sequoia, says he feels confident that if 
every one of these trees were to die to-day, 
numerous monuments of their existence 
would remain available for the student for 
more than ten thousand years. 

But the Big Tree is not verging toward 
extinction. Its greatest danger is from gen- 
eral destruction by man. The Big-Tree 
area has not diminished, but probably has 
109 



Hour l^ationai ^ath^ 

slightly increased in the last few thousand 
years. Seeds sprout readily and young 
trees grow vigorously. John Muir thus com- 
ments concerning the tree and its distribu- 
tion : — 

The Big Tree {Sequoia gigantea) is Nature's 
forest masterpiece, and, so far as I know, the 
greatest of living things. It belongs to an an- 
cient stock, as its remains in old rocks show, 
and has a strange air of other days about it, 
a thoroughbred look inherited from the long 
ago — the auld lang syne of trees. Once the 
genus was common, and with many species 
flourished in the now desolate arctic regions, 
in the interior of North America, and in Eu- 
rope, but in long eventful wanderings from 
climate to climate only two species have sur- 
vived the hardships they had to encounter. 

The Big Trees probably were discovered 
by General John Bid well in 1841. John 
Muir studied them for years, and then 
gave to the world an accurate account of 

them. 

The Big-Tree groves, he says, are grow- 
ing in the soil-areas off which the ice first 
melted at the close of the ice age. The wide 
no 



Sequoia anti 4Beneral 4Bvmt ^ath^ 

gaps between the various sequoia groves 
were areas occupied by the large and long- 
enduring glaciers. The topography of the 
mountains plainly shows that the areas 
where the groves are were places protected 
from the ice-flows of the heights. The gaps 
would naturally have received the main ice- 
flows from the heights. 

In the south the Big-Tree forests are in 
the areas that were effectively buttressed 
and shielded from ice-flows. Consequently 
these areas were early opened at the close 
of the ice age. The forty-mile-wide gap 
between the Stanislaus and the Tuolumne 
Groves was a channel filled with a glacier 
probably long after the groves to the north 
and the south started to grow. 

Did the sequoia endure the long ice age 
in these few places where the groves are now 
growing? The pine, fir, spruce, and other 
forest species in the Sierra may have been 
planted with seeds from trees that sur- 
vived in the south. But as the sequoia is 
found nowhere else, the question arises, did 
III 



iour l^ational ^arft^ 

it survive somewhere near the localities 
in which it is now growing? 

An acquaintance with the Big Trees, an 
understanding of them, gives us one of the 
most impressive and lasting ties to be 
had in nature. These trees ever impress 
one with a nobility of character. Seen at 
midday, or at early morning when their 
lengthened shadow gives strange tones to 
the scene, or in the serene, strange moon- 
light, or when, wrapped in restless mist, 
they loom vast and mysterious, or in a 
storm, they are ever marvelously steadfast 
and calm. Long may they live! 

At the Big Trees, the first act of Horace 
Greeley, the celebrated editor, was to take 
out a pencil and figure on the lumber con- 
tents of one. These veteran trees have a 
higher value. 

Lincoln, in his lecture on Niagara Falls, 
said: "The mere physical fact of Niagara 
Falls is a very small part of the world's 
wonder. Us power to incite reflection and 
emotion is its greatest charm." Lincoln 



112 



Sequoia anti General <Btant ^ath0 

might have calculated the mule-power of 
the Falls if ruined — changed from the 
higher value of a scenic spectacle to com- 
mon commercialism. Why tell how many 
hovels or how many feet of sewer might be 
constructed out of the Library of Congress; 
or the number of cobblestones that could 
be manufactured from the Washington 
Monument? As well tell the number of 
forts that might have been built with the 
marbles and the energy that were put into 
statuary and the inspiring arts, as to con- 
sider or measure Big Trees in lumber 
terms. 

The sequoia is one of the monumental 
wonders of this round world. It is the 
oldest settler — the pioneer of pioneers. 
Each venerable giant numbers his years by 
centuries. Each was already old when na- 
tions of the present were born. Gone and 
forgotten are the nations that were — gone 
the flags that waved in the wind when these 
trees began to cast their shadows. 

And it may be — for nations with all 
113 



iout l^ational ^ath^ 

their pomp and pride are short-lived — that 
every flag that now flaunts the sky, that 
every nation now on earth, will pass out 
of existence long before these patriarchal 
trees lie down at last upon the mountains. 
Some of these trees have already out-lived 
more than fifty generations of mankind. 
Some of them are likely to look upon a 
score or more of passing generations of the 
human race. These trees might tell a thou- 
sand stirring stories to the one possessed 
by the Sphinx. The Sphinx is of lifeless 
stone. These trees are alive. They have 
lived through countless changing scenes. 
But which shall be accounted the more 
striking and wonderful, the passing pictures 
in the centuries they have looked upon, or 
the moving, changing scenes in the cen- 
turies that they are yet to see? 

These Big Trees have endured fire, flood, 
lightning, landslide, gale, drought, and 
earthquake, but have never hauled down 
their evergreen banners. They have tri- 
umphed over the changes of ten thousand 
114 



Sequoia anti oBeneral ^rant ^axh^ 

seasons; watched and waved through cen- 
turies of sunHght and storm. Countless 
times the sun has projected a silhouetted 
shadow of their stupendous plumes against 
the mountain side. They have worn monu- 
mental robes of snow flowers; they have 
stood silent in the light of thousands of 
autumn moons ; and they are still upon the 
heights to inspire us with their steadfast- 
ness and their splendor. 

The landmark and the heritage of the 
ages are these splendid trees, these im- 
mortal evergreens. Their historic lore and 
unequaled grandeur give them amplitude 
and poetry enough to kindle and enrich the 
imagination. Let them live on; they will 
bless those who make the sacred pilgrimage 
to see them, and they will be a "choir in- 
visible" to all who simply know that upon 
the sublime Sierra they still wave grandly. 



IV 
MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 

Mount Rainier is one of the noblest and 
most imposing mountains in the world. It 
stands isolated. Around it are countless 
peaks, but these are so small that they but 
emphasize the colossal bulk and towering 
height of majestic Rainier. It is 14,408 feet 
high. The altitudinal sweep of the Park is 
ten thousand feet. Only Mount Rainier 
territory is in the Park. The area is three 
hundred and twenty-four square miles — 
about eighteen miles square. Yet so vast 
is this mountain that an extensive part 
of it is outside the Park boundaries. Its 
outline is intensified by the extraordinary 
make-up of black and white which charac- 
terizes it. The upper half of it is strangely 
white with masses of snow and ice. The 
lower slopes are purplish black with dense 
coniferous forests. Between the snow and 
116 



amount lHaimer i^ational ^atk 

the forest is a magnificent belt of wild 
flowers. 

Mount Rainier is a sleeping volcano. 
Beneath its shell of stone is a heart of fire. 
Upon this shell are snow-fields and glaciers, 
rushing rivers, a stupendous forest, wild- 
flower gardens in which millions of "ban- 
nered blossoms open their bosoms to the 
sun." 

Additional territory is needed to protect 
scenery not now in the Park, and especially 
for Park road development. At a number 
of points along the southern boundary the 
road winds outside the Park. A similar 
condition will exist on the eastern side when 
the eastern road-system is built. Much 
good would result from starting at the 
southeast corner of the Park and adding a 
six-mile strip twelve miles long on the south 
and another strip of equal size on the east. 

Mount Rainier lies about sixty miles 
eastward from Seattle and Tacoma. An 
excellent automobile road enters the south- 
ern boundary and extends into the Park, 
117 



iour l^ational path$ 

passing the snout of the Nisqually Glacier. 
The road-plan of the Park embraces an 
encircUng scenic highway around the moun- 
tain on the lower slopes. This road is to be 
united with entrance roads from the north, 
south, east, and west. A trail about fifty 
miles long circles this peak near timber- 
line. It penetrates fifty miles of unexcelled 
beauty and splendor. It touches a thou- 
sand different scenes and ever commands 
the world of light and shade that lies far 
below and far away. 

Small inns are to be built along this 
wilderness way. What a poetic, scene- 
crowded way to travel! Every boy and girl 
might well plan to walk round mighty 
Rainier on this commanding circle path- 
way. 

The uppermost edge of Rainier's dark 
primeval forest ends at timber-line in pen- 
insulas, bays, and islands. Between the 
ragged edges of the forest and the broken 
edges of the ice and snow is a magnificent 
wild-flower scenic belt, or zone, a mile or 
ii8 



flr^ount Rainier l^atioiml J^arfe 

two In width. Mingling are ice, snow, bro- 
ken groves, brilliant wild flowers, streams, 
crags, meadows, and a thousand cascades. 
Through this scenic zone lies the timber- 
line trail. 

Steam is constantly issuing from the 
craters in the summit. During the last 
century, there were a number of slight 
eruptions, the most recent one occurring in 
1870. Indian legends tell of a great cata- 
clysm during which the summit of the 
mountain was blown to pieces and scat- 
tered afar. Apparently the peak, before 
this explosion, was about two thousand 
feet higher than at present. The shattered 
summit indicates the reality of this tradi- 
tionary explosion and previous height. It 
is three miles across the summit. A part 
of the great crater-rim still remains, and 
Liberty Cap and Peak Success strongly 
testify to former elevation and grandeur. 

Often this splendid peak wears a vast 
wreath or belt of clouds or mists. Visitors 
to the middle slopes frequently have the 
119 



four l^ational ^arfefif 

delightful experience of being above the 
clouds. Francois E. Matthes, the well- 
known geologist, thinks this mountain a 
wonderful source of inspiration and wishes 
that it were possible for all people to share 
it. He says, " No doubt the time will come 
when a pilgrimage to Mount Rainier shall 
be esteemed among the most precious joys, 
the most coveted privileges which a citizen 
of this country may hope to realize for him- 
self or for his fellows." 

George Vancouver, the explorer, discov- 
ered Mount Rainier in 1792. It was named 
in honor of Peter Rainier, an English ad- 
miral. Theodore Winthrop, author of that 
classic book of travel, " Canoe and Saddle," 
visited the region in 1853. He was an ar- 
dent advocate of the original Indian names 
of conspicuous objects of interest. The In- 
dian name for this peak was Tahoma. It 
is encouraging that the people of Seattle 
and Tacoma may early unite to ask that 
this name be adopted. Said Mr. Winthrop 
in "Canoe and Saddle": — 
120 



amount lHainiet i^ational ^arft 

Let us, therefore, develop our own world. 
It has taken us two centuries to discover our 
proper West across the Mississippi, and to 
know by indefinite hearsay that among the 
groups of the Rockies are heights worth no- 
tice. 

Farthest away in the West, as near the west- 
ern sea as mountains can stand, are the Cas- 
cades. Sailors can descry their landmarked 
summits firmer than a cloud, a hundred miles 
away. . . . Kulshan, misnamed Mount Baker 
by the vulgar, is an irregular, massive, mound- 
shaped peak. . . . South of Kulshan the range 
continues dark, rough and somewhat unmean- 
ing to the eye, until it is relieved by Tahoma. 

Mount Tahoma was first climbed in 1870 
by General Hazard Stevens and P. B. Van 
Trump. The first woman to climb it was 
Miss Fay Fuller, who went to the summit 
in 1890. The Indians appear not to have 
climbed above the snow-line. They had 
little occasion to go higher, and they be- 
lieved that the god of the mountain forbade 
their ascending farther. 

In 1883, Henry Villard, president of the 
Northern Pacific Railroad, sent a large 
party to enjoy the scenes on the slopes of 
121 



iour l^ational ^ath0 

Mount Rainier. Among those in the party- 
were James Bryce, afterward British Am- 
bassador to the United States, and Bailey 
WilHs. These two gentlemen appear to have 
discussed the importance of having this 
peak set aside as a National Park. On the 
completion of this excursion, James Bryce 
and others recommended to Henry Villard 
that efforts be made to have this Park 
created. Later, similar requests were made 
by individuals and organizations, and a 
recommendation to this effect was made 
in writing by the National Academy of 
Sciences. In 1899 the Park was established. 

I. THE SPLENDID WILD-FLOWER GARDEN 

The triumphant glory of Mount Rainier 
National Park is seen in its wild flowers. 
It is doubtful whether anywhere else on 
earth is to be found so extensive and luxuri- 
ant a growth of such brightly colored flowers 
amid such scenes of supreme wildness and 
grandeur. 

A vast broken flower-belt encircles the 
122 



amount lltainier l^ational ^arft 

peak between the ragged lower edge of the 
large ice-fields and the ragged upper limits 
of tree growth. A flower- belt fifty miles 
long, covered and crowded with flowers, 
mile after mile ! It is most showy and splen- 
did at and just above the limits of tree 
growth. Masses of color; myriads of blos- 
soms, each of clean and vivid hue! This 
vast and splendid garden is crossed with 
streams and cafions, adorned with crags, 
green meadows, forested peninsulas, and 
islands of groves. This encircling flower 
carnival expands into numerous connected 
and disconnected alpine parks. Each park 
is a superb flower-garden with a splendid 
precipitous alpine back- and sky-ground. 
Among the more striking of these are 
Paradise Park, Indian Henry's Hunting 
Grounds, Spray Park, and Summerland. 
In the open upper reaches of the forest, 
the fragrant twin-flower covers and crowds 
wide places. There are thousands of cream- 
white mountain lilies — bear-grass — with 
tall, slender blooms. The shooting-star, a 
123 



Hour i^ational ^atft^ 

near relative of the cyclamen, is as thick 
upon the earth as stars up in the sky. Thou- 
sands of purple asters are found upon stalks 
two feet high. A dogtooth violet, com- 
monly called avalanche lily, is abundant. 
The western anemone, with its exquisite 
leaves, its purple bloom and decorative 
seed plumes, adorns many a wild garden. 
Many of the plants in the high altitude 
grow rapidly, bloom briefly, and seed 
quickly. Summer is short. 

Acres of valerian with four-foot stalks 
thrust their pungent blooms beneath one's 
nose. The blue mertensia crowds moist 
places with a thicket of stalks three feet 
high. A lavender-colored arctic lupine 
grows in decorative masses. The white 
dock, sometimes called wild buckwheat, 
nods on its slender stalks two feet above 
the earth. The wild hellebore carries its 
greenish-white flowers upon stalks as high 
as one's head. 

Many of the yellow or golden flowers 
bloom close to the earth. There are golden 
124 



amount !l!ainier l^ational ^axh 

asters and golden-rods, a mountain dande- 
lion, a low-growing yellow buttercup called 
the monkey-flower, the gold-touched ar- 
nica, and yellow potentilla. These fill many 
wide, ragged places with a blaze of yellow 
glory. 

Low-growing lavender-colored phlox ap- 
pears in masses, and Cusick's speedwell 
forms large patches of low-lying blue. Epi- 
lobiums cover acres of earth with pink 
petals. 

A species of blue gentian grows in showy 
clusters, and meadows are filled with the 
brightest painted-cups in red and crimson. 
The heather, the heather! There are rich, 
deep masses of red, white, and yellow 
heather. The white heather is the lovely 
cassiope that adorns the snow edges of 
thousands of mountains from Mexico to 
the Arctic regions. 

Endless are the ranks of the saxifrage 

family in white; countless the numbers of 

the pink family. Here the spring beauty 

blooms in summer and the rose-crimson 

125 



iour l^ational ^axk0 

Pentstemon rupicola makes a showy appear- 
ance. 

Also above the limits of tree growth are 
other little plant people: the ever-cheerful 
kinnikinnick; a dainty, tiny fern; numer- 
ous members of the figwort family ; Lyall's 
lupine, with its brilliant bloom of purple 
flowers; the evening- primrose ; and a most 
pungent polemonium. 

Growing far up the slopes is an attrac- 
tive member of the dock family that is 
tufted with purplish-yellow bloom. A yel- 
low mustard {Draba aureola) and another 
member of the mustard family with creamy- 
white flowers carry and maintain this won- 
derful wild-flower garden farthest above 
the clouds, highest up into the snow-fields 
and the sky. 

One day I found a tiny tuft of bloom in a 
bit of soil on the very summit of Rainier. 
It was in a niche of lava, surrounded with 
ice and snow, but warmed by the steadily 
escaping steam. Brave, cheerful little fel- 
low creature! In a steamy, ice-rimmed 
126 



amount iHainier l^ational ^atfe 

volcano's throat on a desolate top of the 
world ! 

Of all the fire-mountains which, like beacons, 
once blazed along the Pacific Coast, Mount 
Rainier is the noblest in form. ... Its massive 
white dome rises out of its forests, like a world 
by itself. . . . Above the forests there is a zone 
of the loveliest flowers, fifty miles in circuit 
and nearly two miles wide, so closely planted 
and luxuriant that it seems as if Nature, glad 
to make an open space between woods so 
dense and ice so deep, were economizing the 
precious ground, and trying to see how many 
of ■'her darlings she can get together in one 
mountain wreath. . . . We wade knee-deep 
and waist-deep, the bright corollas in myriads 
touching petal to petal. . . . Altogether this 
is the richest subalpine garden I ever found, a 
perfect floral elysium. (John Muir, in "Our 
National Parks.") 

The forests of this park are a splendid 
attraction. The trees are tall and of noble 
proportions. The forest floor has a tangled 
undergrowth of vines and shrubbery, a 
luxuriant carpet of ferns, mosses, and flow- 
ers. Many areas are crowded with trees 
from two to eight feet in diameter, from 
127 



four l^ational ^ath^ 

one hundred to two hundred and fifty feet 
high. Cedars, spruces, and hemlocks num- 
ber their years by centuries. A few are 
perhaps a thousand years of age. Theodore 
Winthrop wrote of these forests : — 

Long years of labor by artists the most 
unconscious of their skill had been given 
to modelling these columnar firs. Unlike 
the pillars of human architecture, chipped 
and chiselled in bustling, dusty quarries, and 
hoisted to their site by sweat of brow and 
creak of pulley, these rose to fairest propor- 
tions by the life that was in them and blos- 
somed into foliated capitals three hundred 
feet overhead. 

The forest is gloomy with luxuriant 
greenness. Many trees are shrouded with 
a pendent lichen, Usnea. This hangs in 
long, threadlike tufts, while beneath it, 
mingling with the flowers among the tow- 
ering trees, are forests of far-spreading 
ferns. 

Around the foot of the mountain are the 
Indian-pipe and the pyrola, of the winter- 
green family; and there is still another 
128 



flr^ount ^Hainicr i^ational ^arfe 

delightful member of this family, whose 
generic name means "delight." The dog- 
wood {Cornus canadensis), the forest ane- 
mone, the dainty calypso are also here. 
All these and numbers of other brilliant- 
ly colored species brighten and in places 
illuminate the somber forest floor like 
touches and dashes of sunlight. 

On the lower slopes Douglas spruce and 
Western hemlock predominate, with red 
cedar along the streams. Above the alti- 
tude of three thousand feet, noble and sil- 
ver firs are found singly and in solid groves. 
Ascending, we find a scattered growth of 
lodge-pole, growths of Engelmann spruce, 
and a few white-bark pines. 

The timber-line may be given as about 
sixty-five hundred feet, or at the same 
altitude as in the Alps. The extreme height 
of the tree growth is about one thousand 
feet greater. Most of the timber-line 
growth is crushed, flattened, and op- 
pressed. The timber-line grouping is most 
poetical and picturesque. In places the 
129 



iour i^ational ^ath^ 

trees are both dwarfed and distorted with 
wind and snow. The trees are mountain 
hemlock, alpine fir, Engelmann spruce, 
and white-bark pine. These stand singly, 
in groups, and in ragged groves. Com- 
monly they stand in green meadows or 
brilliant wild-flower gardens. Here and 
there they are separated with the green 
tracks of permanent snowslides. 

The Mount Rainier National Park has 
its full share of bird and animal life. Here 
are numerous warblers and woodpeckers; 
chickadees, black-hooded jays, dainty hum- 
mingbirds, ptarmigans, thrushes, and trust- 
ful water-ouzels. 

Among the animals is that audacious 
climber, the mountain goat. There also 
are deer, elk, bears, and other alert wild 
folk. 

2. GLACIERS OF MOUNT RAINIER 

Mount Rainier has the largest and the 
longest glacier in the United States. This 
is the Emmons. It is about six miles long 
130 



amount ^Hainier i^ational ^arh 

and has an area of about eight square 
miles. It is on the eastern slope of the peak. 
The ice-area on Rainier covers one seventh 
of the Park, or about fifty square miles. 

Rainier has a magnificent glacial sys- 
tem. There are a dozen large and twice as 
many small glaciers. The peak is an enor- 
mous cone with a blunt, broken top. A 
majority of the large glaciers begin two 
thousand or more feet below the summit 
and extend in a comparatively straight 
line toward the bottom. Though a num- 
ber unite in continuous ice-fields well up 
the slope, down the slope each generally 
is separated from its neighbors. The gla- 
ciers are separated by narrow ledges called 
cleavers, or by each occupying its own 
deep canon. Near the terminus many are 
separated by moraines or flowering mea- 
dows. 

The Nisqually Glacier, which ends just 

below the altitude of four thousand feet in 

Paradise Park, is five miles long. In the 

summer-time it moves forward at the rate 

131 



four l^ational ^atk$ 

of about sixteen inches per day. This, and 
in fact all glaciers, have periods of ad- 
vance and retreat. During the last twenty- 
five years this glacier has retreated about 
one thousand feet. That is to say, the 
present point where it melts entirely away 
is one thousand feet farther up the slope 
than it was twenty-five years ago. In com- 
paratively recent times, as the cirques, 
lakes, and moraines far down the slopes 
show, the glaciers on this peak were deeper 
and larger, and reached much farther down 
the slope than at present. 

The Nisqually Glacier has continuous 
connection with the snow deposits upon 
the summit of the peak. At one point this 
snow comes down a precipitous cascade 
and tumbles perhaps two thousand feet. 
This and all other glaciers are clean and 
snowy at the upper end, but the lower end 
is greatly darkened with rock-debris and 
earthy material that have mixed with it. 
The last half-mile of the Nisqually Glacier 
has the appearance more of a rock glacier 
132 



amount JUainier l^ational ^arft 

than an ice glacier. Its front is a dark 
chocolate color. 

The Paradise Glacier is one of several 
on the southerly slope. It is formed by 
the union of a number of ice-streams which 
originate at about nine thousand feet. 
They do not receive snow from the slopes 
above, but quantities of snow are brought 
to them by the wind. Near the lower end, 
this glacier divides into a number of lobes 
or streams. 

The Carbon Glacier descends the north- 
erly slope. It originates in the large cirque 
or ice-made canon on the peak. This is a 
mile and a half across, and its terminal 
wall rises precipitously thirty-six hundred 
feet. Its snow supplies fall upon it from 
the clouds, are swept to it by the winds, 
and rushed to it by avalanches. 

The Winthrop Glacier is on the north- 
ern slope. Among its interesting features 
are ice-cascades, glacier tablets, and the 
ice flowing over high mounds in its main 
channel. 

133 



iour i^ational ^ath^ 

The Tahoma glaciers on the southwest 
slope exhibit a glacier island. 

The Kautz Glacier on the southern 
slope is long, narrow, and winding. It has 
an enormous medial moraine. Pyramid 
Rock commands an excellent view of this 
and other scenes. 

Many admirable names have been se- 
lected for the objects of interest on Rainier. 
In this connection, some one is to be 
thanked for substituting "cleaver" and 
"wedge" for "arrete." 

The snowfall on the peak is heaviest on 
the lower slopes. This diminishes with 
altitude and is lightest on the upper slopes 
and the summit. This is typical of moun- 
tain snowfalls. From long experience in 
the Rocky Mountains, I am able to say 
that the snowfall there is much less on 
the high peaks than on their middle 
slopes. The same fact applies to the Sierra 
Nevada of California, to the Andes of 
South America, and to the Himalayas 
and the Alps. It is common for a storm- 
134 



amount iHainier l^ational ^arh 

cloud to be comparatively close to the 
earth. The height of it is determined more 
by the height of near-by plateaus and 
passes than by that of the peaks. It is 
certain that during many of the lowland 
storms the mountain peaks thrust up into 
the sunshine through the silver lining of 
the clouds. 

Wind is an interesting factor in the dis- 
tribution of the snowfall. It sweeps snow 
off exposed ridges and accumulates it in 
vast quantities at places where a glacier 
starts or where the snow avalanches to a 
glacier. Columbia's Crest — the summit 
— appears to be in a large measure formed 
by snow that the wind carries up to it 
from the slopes far below. Thus, to snows 
that fell on these slopes the height of the 
peak and its white top are in a measure 
due. 

A score of turbulent streams radiate 
from this mountain. Apparently its vol- 
canic material is easily eroded. The streams 
are heavily laden with gravel and sedi- 
135 



iour l^ational ^arM 

ment. Though the peak is comparatively 
young, the canons made by ice and water 
are large. Vast portions of the mountain 
have already been carried away by the 
erosive forces of ice and running water. 



V 
CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK 

The supreme attraction In Crater Lake 
National Park is the vivid blue lake that 
sleeps in the rugged and magnificent crater 
of a dead volcano — Mount Mazama. 

One golden September afternoon I 
climbed alone upon the rim of the crater 
near Eagle Point. There was no wind, and 
everything lay broodingly silent in the 
sunshine. In an instant the scene became 
unreal. The lake, mysteriously blue — 
indigo blue — lay below. Barren, deso- 
late mountain walls of a desert strangely 
surrounded it. Was I exploring the topog- 
raphy of the moon? 

A second look at most new scenes, and 
there comes to me a feeling of acquaint- 
ance — of having been there before. But 
this scene made no advance; if it had 
known me, it desired to forget. I had not 
137 



iour l^ational ^arhjef 

seen it; It was as indifferent to my pres- 
ence as though I existed not. But it was 
enchanting and it was eloquent. In com- 
mon with all other visitors to Crater Lake, 
I received profound and lasting impres- 
sions. 

The splendid ruin of the ashen-gray 
walls, the intense and refined blue of 
the lake, arouse the imagination. What 
graphic, dramatic, world-building story 
is locked in these bold scenes? 

It is probable that this vast blue-bot- 
tomed caldron was once covered with a 
volcanic peak. This vanished volcano is 
named Mount Mazama. The geological 
story is that the upper half of the peak 
collapsed. There was volcanic violence. 
But it did not, like Mount Rainier and 
Mount Baker, explosively blow its sum- 
mit to pieces. A mile or more of the upper 
half simply collapsed and dropped into 
the crater. Had an explosion hurled the 
enormous fragments of the top afar, they 
must have been found scattered about. 
138 




CRATER LAKE AND WIZARD ISLAND 



Crater %Qkt i^ational garft 

But only small fragments of pumice have 
been discovered. 

This collapse appears to have been pre- 
ceded by a rupture of the base, allowing 
the lava to escape. This lava had filled 
the crater and supported its walls, and the 
collapse followed its removal. The upper 
part of this peak that apparently dropped 
into the crater must have been six thou- 
sand or more feet high, with a basal di- 
ameter of about six miles. Its bulk was 
equal to, or greater than, the whole of 
Mount Washington, the highest peak in 
New England. 

An early impression that this lake crater 
gave me was that it had been formed by 
breaking off an enormous conical and 
hollow volcanic peak which was inverted 
and jammed, small end downward, into 
the earth. This caldron remains. It is 
now a jagged, gigantic central opening 
in the deep surrounding lava-beds. These 
exhibit the former fiery flooding activity 
of Mazama. 

139 



^our l^ational ^ath0 

The volcano was active at intervals in 
the glacial period. This is shown in the 
glaciated rock-surfaces of the rim that are 
covered with layers of pumice and rhyo- 
lite. The lake is encircled by about twenty 
miles of precipitous walls that rise from 
five hundred to two thousand feet above 
the surface of the water. The lake-level 
is 6177 feet. The surface fluctuates a few 
feet each year. 

The water is deep, much of it from 
twelve hundred to nineteen hundred feet. 
In a few places it is less than three hundred 
feet deep, with near-by surroundings sev- 
eral hundred feet deeper. Are these shal- 
low spots above the tops of other volcanic 
cones or lava-masses? 

The lava-beds in the surrounding outer 
slopes of the crater overlie one another at 
an angle that indicates that the lava was 
poured to them from a central point above. 
Extend the slopes upward from the rim on 
the angle of the slopes below, and the out- 
line of the former peak is restored. This 
140 



Crater %aht l^ational ^arft 

would make a peak about the size of Mount 
Shasta. 

At the altitude of the crater rim, about 
eight thousand feet, the diameter is about 
six miles, the same as that of Mount Shasta 
at the same altitude. As both peaks are 
composed of like kinds of lava, we may 
safely assume that Mount Mazama before 
it collapsed was about the size and height 
of Mount Shasta (14,380 feet). 

Glacier records furnish additional evi- 
dence of the former height and magnitude 
of Mazama. On the rim and on the outer 
slopes just below it are a number of gla- 
cier grooved and planed rock-surfaces. The 
lines of these extend downward, so the ice 
must have come from above. Then, too, 
there are a number of moraines that show 
they were deposited by glaciers from up- 
per slopes. Apparently glaciers flowed down 
all sides of this mountain from a central 
high point. Two ice-eroded caiions begin 
in the southern rim and extend down the 
slope. Plainly these were formed by ice- 
141 



iour l^ational ^arftjef 

streams that came down from above. Thus 
the angle of the lava-built slopes, and the 
lines of glaciation, testify to the former ex- 
istence of a high central summit. 

On its slopes the Fire King and the Ice 
King appear to have wrought and to have 
clashed. Both have vanished from the 
scene; but here remains a volcanic land- 
scape slightly sculptured by ice. The Ma- 
zama story appears a spectacular one. 

This scene is a favorite with geologists. 
They come to it from all over the world. 
Crater lakes are common. There are num- 
bers of dead craters filled with water in 
South America, Asia, and elsewhere. But 
this is an extraordinary crater lake. The 
marvelous blueness is only one feature. The 
rare geological exhibit makes a strange 
appeal. 

Joseph S. Diller, of the United States 
Geological Survey, closes his excellent 
monograph on the "Geological History of 
Crater Lake, Oregon" with the following 

words : — 

142 



Cratec Eahe l^attonal l^arh 

Aside from its attractive scenic features, 
Crater Lake affords one of the most interesting 
and instructive fields for the study of volcanic 
geology to be found anywhere in the world. 
Considered in all its aspects, it ranks with the 
Grand Cafion of the Colorado, the Yosemite 
Valley, and the Falls of Niagara, but with an 
individuality that is superlative. 

No streams flow into this lake, and there 
is no visible outlet. It is probable that sub- 
terranean waters empty into it and flow 
from it. The annual precipitation, together 
with the enormous quantities of snow that 
are blown into it, greatly exceeds the 
amount of water evaporated. The water is 
clear and cold. It is so clear that a plate 
may be seen upon the bottom through 
fifty or more feet of water. Fish may be 
distinctly seen swimming about at great 
depths. 

Many alpine lakes are blue under some 
lights. The deep blueness of this lake may 
possibly be due to mineral which the water 
holds in solution; or also in part to its 
high surrounding walls and to its enor- 
143 



Hour i^attonal 3^ath$ 

mous depth. Seen from the rim, a narrow 
margin of the water along the walls is 
sea-green. Yet a glassful is as clear as the 
clearest. 

A few days spent upon the rim and in a 
launch upon the lake will give glimpses 
of world-building features and nature-his- 
tory. Morning is a good time for a journey 
around the lake. At no point is there a 
beach. The steep walls descend and plunge 
into the water. 

In the lake near the west shore is Wizard 
Island. It is a perfect little volcano — a 
crater within a crater. Although a few pines 
are growing upon it, the island's lava and 
ashes appear as if just cast from the in- 
ternal furnace. It probably was formed 
after the collapse of Mount Mazama. 
Lava, cinders, and tiny water-filled crater 
appear strange mimicry. The island rises 
several hundred feet above the lake-sur- 
face, and its crater is eighty feet deep. The 
island is a good view-point at noon, at 
evening, or when the blue cold crater glows 
144 



Crater %aht l^ational ^arft 

and sparkles with the reflected fires of a 
milHon fiery worlds. 

Phantom Ship, near the southeast shore, 
is a volcanic island masted with rock-spires. 
It has scattered trees. From a number of 
points of view it has the appearance of a 
ship, but under certain lights it blends so 
completely with the walls behind it that it 
vanishes. 

The forests are magnificent. Among the 
trees on the rim and on Wizard Island are 
noble fir, alpine fir, mountain white pine, 
Douglas spruce, alpine hemlock, and lodge- 
pole pine. Sheep-pasturing in former years 
wrought havoc with the wild flowers, of 
which there are numerous varieties. There 
are many kinds of wild birds and wild life. 
While there are other scenic attractions, the 
supreme one must ever be the lake of mar- 
velous blue and its rugged, fire-tinted walls. 
In the ruined caldron where red fire and 
black smoke wildly mingled, blue water 
lies in repose. 

On June 12, 1853, a number of prospec- 
145 



Hour i^ational ^arftjef 

tors, led by John W. Hillman, discovered 
Crater Lake. Though not interested in 
scenery, they were aroused by this gigantic 
blue gem in its rough volcanic setting. 

In 1885, William G. Steele began the 
campaign which finally won this National 
Park. This campaign went through num- 
berless vicissitudes and lasted seventeen 
years, the Park having been established 
in 1902. 

In 1888, Steele carried a number of trout 
in a can upon his back for more than forty 
miles. These trout were placed in the lake 
and grew rapidly. Since then it has been 
repeatedly stocked by the Government. 
Nowhere else that I know of can a fisher- 
man catch a trout and clearly watch its 
every effort many feet under the water, as 
it tries to run away with or escape from 
the cruel hook. 

This Park is in, the heart of the Cascade 
Mountains in southern Oregon, a short dis- 
tance north of the California line. It has an 
area of about two hundred and forty-nine 
146 



Cratei: Hake l^attona! ^arft 

square miles. Mount Thielson, Diamond 
Lake, and other near-by attractive features 
might well be added to the territory of the 
Park. 



VI 

GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 

Lakes — splendid intermountain lakes 
— are an unrivaled attraction in the Glacier 
National Park. Here, too, are other strik- 
ing features — glaciers, peaks precipitous 
and stupendous, forests, and streams. The 
rugged Alplike mountains are of first mag- 
nitude. The forests that crowd the lower 
elevations of the park are primeval and 
grand. The vigorous streams are set in 
magnificent scenery. But I feel that the 
lakes are entitled to first rank among the 
scenic attractions in this park. 

There are two hundred and fifty of these, 
of different sizes, each of individual outline 
and with an original alpine setting. Some 
repose in the depths of the forest. Others 
have a shore-line half forest and half the 
abrupt wall of a towering peak. Still other 
lakes have a wild shore of snow-fields, 
148 



glaciers, forests, meadows, and mountains. 
Waterfalls out of the mountain sky drop 
into many; cascading streams rush from 
the outlets of others. 

Many of the lakes are strikingly long for 
their narrow width. Lake [McDonald is 
about ten miles long and one mile wide. 
Waterton Lake is about twelve miles long, 
with an average width of perhaps half a 
mile. Bowman Lake is about six miles long 
by half a mile wide. Avalanche Lake, 
which lies in Avalanche Basin, is hemmed 
in on all sides, except at the outlet, by pre- 
cipitous mountains. It is a beautiful ellipse 
about one mile long. Iceberg Lake is on 
the north side of Wilbur Mountain, which 
towers three thousand feet above the sur- 
face of the water. The Blackfeet name for 
this is " Fly-around-in." McDermott and 
Altyn Lakes are beauty spots. The outlet of 
McDermott is a series of spectacular cas- 
cades. Its shore is open, and around it one 
moves about easily. Altyn Lake is only a 
quarter of a mile distant from McDermott. 
149 



four l^ational ^ath^ 

These lakes lie between Grinnell Mountain 
and Allen Mountain and are a part of one 
of the grandest scenes in the Park. 

Grinnell Lake lies one mile above Altyn 
Lake, at the foot of the tremendous cliffs 
of Gould Mountain. The lower end of the 
lake is open and parklike, while at the up- 
per end cliffs rise about four thousand feet. 
This lake receives the waters from Grinnell 
Glacier. These pour over high cliffs at the 
upper end of the lake and form a beautiful 
spectacle. The scenes which unite around 
Grinnell Lake are unsurpassed in the park. 

These lakes are glacier lakes. That is, 
the basin of each was gouged or eroded by 
the movement of glacial ice. There are a 
few exceptions where the lake is due 
chiefly to a morainal dam, or a dam that 
was formed by a landslide. 

The highest peak in the Park is Cleve- 
land Mountain, 10,438 feet above sea-level. 
Several others rise more than ten thousand 
feet, and a great number more than nine 
thousand feet. Many of these peaks are 
ISO 




McDERMOTT FALLS AND GRIXNELL MOUNTAIN 
GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 



4B\atm l^ational ^arfe 

connected with sharp pinnacled ridges, and 
most of them rise steeply into the sky. 
Precipices, nearly vertical, that measure 
between two thousand and four thousand 
feet are common. Thus it will be seen that 
these two hundred and fifty lakes have a 
mountainous setting. Distribute these lakes 
on terraces among the peaks and fit in about 
one hundred glaciers, have the forests ev- 
erywhere in the lower altitudes, cut these 
with clear streams, and we have the scenic 
make-up of the Glacier National Park. 
Considered as a whole, it is unexcelled 
mountain architecture. 

The Blackfeet Glacier on the Continental 
Divide is the largest in the Park. Mount 
Jackson towers red above it. It has an area 
of about three square miles and lies be- 
tween the altitudes of six thousand and 
seven thousand feet. The much-visited 
Sperry Glacier, which is easily reached from 
Lake McDonald, has a little more than one 
square mile of ice-area. Grinnell Glacier is 
about the size of the Sperry. 
151 



iour l^ational ^ath$ 

Altogether there are about one hundred 
glaciers in the Park. Most of these have 
an area of less than one square mile. The 
majority of them, of course, are mere rem- 
nants of vast glaciers. In many cases their 
small size is an advantage to the student. 
Carrying, as most of these do, the char- 
acteristics of larger glaciers, and being in 
a small compass and surrounded with va- 
rious kinds of glacial work — moraines, 
lakes, and smooth rock-surf aces — they place 
before us, in one scene, the story of the 
ice age. 

On every hand is evidence of glacier 
work. The glaciers themselves in many 
instances are placed in a manner that 
explains their mobility. You can see that 
they have moved and are moving. You 
can see the effects of their moves, and the 
results of the movements of the stupendous 
prehistoric glaciers that have vanished. 

The Glacier National Park has an end- 
less variety of small game, and in it nu- 
merous varieties of large animals are fairly 
152 



(^latitt l^ationa! ^arft 

abundant. Most important of all is the 
grizzly bear. Black bears are common. 
So, too, are elk; and there is a scattering 
of moose, lions, deer, and antelopes. In 
some localities bighorn sheep and moun- 
tain goats are abundant. Trout abound in 
many lakes and streams. 

There is a goodly array of suggestive 
outdoor names, many of which are of In- 
dian application. Red Eagle Mountain, 
Pass, and Valley, Rising Wolf Mountain, 
Two Medicine Lake, Avalanche Lake, 
Swift Current River, are a few of the vigor- 
ous, spirited names. Many of the old pic- 
turesque and descriptive Indian names 
have been discarded, however, for names 
that are utterly unfit or meaningless. 

There are scores of varieties of flowers. 
These brighten the woods, stand along the 
streams, border the lakes, and crowd close 
to the glaciers. They climb above the 
limits of tree growth. Grinnell Lake has 
a grand wild-flower garden on its shores. 
Among the many kinds are bluebell, 
153 



four l^ationa! 5^arftjr 

queen's-cup, violet, water-lily, and wild 
hollyhock. 

The summit slopes of these mountains 
are above the timber-line. All the lower 
slopes and spaces in the Park not occupied 
and glorified by lakes, streams, and cliffs 
are crowded with forests, green and grand. 
Much of the old glaciation is covered with 
forest growths. Many moraines are crowned 
with spruces, and numerous glacial am- 
phitheaters are now filled with splendid 
forests. 

The visitor to the summit of Swift Cur- 
rent Pass will find himself monarch with 
great scenes to survey. Below, around, and 
above are lakes, streams, peaks, waterfalls, 
snow-fields, glaciers, canons, and moun- 
tains. These are splendidly grouped and 
combined; gradually they fade into mys- 
terious horizons. 

St. Mary's Lake — "Good Spirit Woman 

Lake" — Is crescent-shaped, with miles of 

spruce-walled shores. It has a length of ten 

miles in the Glacier Park and is a queen 

154 



(Blatitt l^ational ^ath 

among queens of mountain lakes. Kingly- 
peaks stand waiting around the shores. Red 
Eagle Mountain, Fusillade Mountain, and 
Going-to-the-Sun Mountain are a part of 
the magnificence in which this lovely lake 
reposes. Mount Jackson, one of the high- 
est summits in the Park, is often reflected 
in its waters. 

The mountains of this Park are broken 
and have towering walls. On the east they 
rise abruptly from the peaceful plains. No- 
where in the country can be found such an 
array of high and nearly vertical walls. 
Many of these mountains and peaks are 
enlivened with color. Yellow, red, and 
green are distributed on a magnificent 
scale. 

The very name "Two-Ocean Pass," in 
the Yellowstone Park, led me through the 
pathless forest for days in search of it. 
There was a fairyland novelty in the lure of 
the name. As soon as I heard of a glacier in 
the Glacier National Park whose waters 
were divided between the Arctic and the 
155 



iour l^attonal ^ath$ 

Pacific Oceans, I wanted to see it. A part 
of the water of a glacier on Vulture Peak 
goes to the Pacific through Logging Creek 
and the Columbia River. The remainder 
goes to Hudson Bay through the Little 
Kootenai Creek. Some one has wisely pro- 
posed the name "Two-Ocean Glacier '\ for 
this ice-field. 

Triple Divide Peak is another place that 
has a peculiarly wild, romantic appeal. This 
sharp- pointed peak is 8001 feet above the 
sea. Close together in its summit slopes, 
surrounded by a maze of alpine mountains, 
three streams start almost from a common 
source, each to go on its separate, scenic 
way to the ocean. 

The Red Eagle travels towards the 
North Pole through the north country and 
empties into that vast ice-formed basin, 
Hudson Bay. The waters of the Cut Bank 
choose the channel of the Missouri in which 
to travel the long journey to the inland sea, 
the Gulf of Mexico, and perhaps from this 
to flow north into the Gulf Stream. The 
156 



<DIacicr l^ational ^arft 

Nyack goes to the Pacific through the 
crooked international channel of the scenic 
Columbia River. 

HISTORY OF GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 

George Bird Grinnell was a loyal and 
helpful friend to the Yellowstone Na- 
tional Park during its trying years. He 
also rendered the public the distinguished 
service of originating the Glacier Na- 
tional Park idea and helping to bring about 
its realization. In 1885, accompanied by 
James Willard Schultz, he visited a num- 
ber of its now famous lakes and glaciers. 
On his return he published a series of ar- 
ticles entitled "To the Walled-in Lakes." 
A peak, a glacier, and a lake have been 
named in his honor. Year after year he 
returned to this region to enjoy the scen- 
ery and to study the language and customs 
of the Blackfeet Indian. In 1891, accom- 
panied by Harry L. Stimpson, he discov- 
ered the Blackfoot Glacier, the largest in 
the Park, and a little later he wrote an 
157 



^our l^ational $ath^ 

article concerning it. In an article entitled 
"The Crown of the Continent" he gave a 
good account of the region. 

James Willard Schultz lived for years 
with the Blackfeet Indians and spent a 
number of years with them in this terri- 
tory. He says that Hugh Monroe was the 
first white man to see the Glacier Na- 
tional Park region. This was in 1815. 
Grinnell states that James Doty visited it 
in 1853. The same year, apparently, A. W. 
Tinkham, a government engineer, crossed 
through Cut Bank Pass. The American 
and British boundary-line survey commis- 
sioners visited the region in 1861. 

I had a few weeks in the region in the 
autumn of 1896. For most other National 
Parks I have recommended enlargements, 
feeling that some adjacent and important 
scenic territory had been left outside the 
Park lines. But with the vast Glacier 
National Park no additions appear to be 
needed. 

Grinnell says : — 

158 



(flatlet l^ational ^ath 

In an old notebook, under date of Septem- 
ber 17, 1 89 1, I found not long ago the follow- 
ing remark: "How would it do to start a move- 
ment to buy the St. Mary country, say thirty 
by thirty miles, from the Piegan Indians at 
a fair valuation, and turn it into a national 
reservation or park?" 

This idea, in the course of the next ten 
years, grew in my mind. It was, I think, the 
first suggestion, in words, of the Glacier Na- 
tional Park. About the year 1893 indications 
of copper were found in the foothills. It was 
believed that the country contained mines, 
and before long strong pressure was brought to 
bear on Congress to purchase the land from 
the Indians and throw it open to settlement. 
The mountain region was not used by the In- 
dians. They lived on the plains. In 1895, 
Secretary of the Interior Hoke Smith sent out 
Commissioners W. C. Pollock, George Bird 
Grinnell, and W. M. Clements, to treat with 
the Blackfeet for this territory, and a ma- 
jority of the commission went into the moun- 
tains and made a hasty inspection of the 
region. An agreement was made with the In- 
dians, and was ratified by Congress, and about 
two years later the territory was thrown open 
to settlement. . . . 

Soon after 1902 I spoke to Senator T. H. 
Carter about setting aside this recently pur- 

159 



chased tract as a National Park, and found 
that he was disposed to favor the suggestion. 
I then took up the matter with friends in 
Montana, and induced them to write to Sena- 
tor Carter about the project. The result was 
that a little later he introduced a bill, which 
passed the Senate once or twice, and at last, 
in 1910, passed both houses, and was signed 
by President Taft, May 12, 1910, and the 
Glacier National Park became a fact. 

Certainly the most striking fact in the 
history of this Park is the rapidity with 
which it has been developed and opened 
to travelers. L. W. Hill has given this 
region a large share of his time, and in it 
has spent enormous sums of money. There 
is more than commercialism behind his 
work. It has been done with happy hands. 
He has made this a part of his life-work. 
He has endeavored to create on artistic 
lines. What he has done for this Park has 
stimulated interest in the other Parks and 
will greatly help to bring about their de- 
velopment. 



VII 

MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK 

Weirdness, romance, and mystery domi- 
nate the Mesa Verde National Park. Tow- 
ering high and dry above the surrounding 
country, carrying in places squatty, scat- 
tered growths of pinon pines and cedars, 
it stands silently up in the sunlight. Com- 
bined with these things, the deserted pre- 
historic cliff dwellings give to the Mesa a 
strangeness and peculiar appeal. These 
monuments of a departed race tell but 
little of the story of their builders. They 
are the ruins of an ancient civilization that 
stood its day and vanished ; that — 

"Like snow upon the desert's dusty face, 
Lighting a little hour or two — is gone." 

Who were the cliff dwellers? It is prob- 
able that they were Indians. No one knows 
where they came from, how long they re- 
mained on the Mesa, nor why they left; 
i6i 



iour l^ational ^arfe^ 

how long since they went away, where 
they went to, nor what has become of them. 
Several hundred ruins of the structures 
they reared still remain. These are mys- 
terious and thought-compelling, but they 
tell little more than is told by the Sphinx. 

The Mesa Verde National Park covers 
seventy-seven square miles in southwest 
Colorado, near the corners of four States. 
It is in the "Land of Little Rain." The 
table-like summit of this steep-walled 
Mesa is eight thousand feet above the 
sea, and nearly two thousand feet above 
the surrounding country. Looking from 
the summit, one sees strange "Ship Rock" 
far away in New Mexico. This appears to 
be an enormous ship in full sail upon the 
sea. It adds to the unreal and mysterious 
air of the region. 

Numerous cafions are countersunk deeply 
into this sunny sky plain. Many of the 
canons are corniced with a heavy over- 
hanging stratum of rock. Befieath this, 
in cavelike hollows in the canon walls, the 
162 



^t0a HBnht i^ational ^arft 

cliflf houses are found. Here ages ago the 
cliff dwellers lived in large communities 
and probably under organized govern- 
ment — the oldest and most fully realized 
civic-center scheme in America. Long be- 
fore their mesa country was invaded by 
the men of recorded history, these people 
of the Southwest vanished, leaving build- 
ings, tools, clothing, and pottery to tell 
of their odd and interesting Indian civili- 
zation. 

When the name Indian is mentioned, 
the average individual usually thinks of a 
savage. But at the time Columbus dis- 
covered America, there were millions of 
civilized Indians in the Western world, 
living under organized government. It is 
true that their civilization was different 
from ours of to-day, and happily differ- 
ent from the European civilization of that 
time. 

These early civilized Indians lived chiefly 
in well-built houses. Many of them trav- 
eled good roads. They possessed a keen 
163 



^our l^ational ^axh^ 

sense of right and wrong, and in ethics they 
may have averaged higher than the Euro- 
pean. Among the tribes that were civiHzed 
were the Mayas, the Aztecs, and the Incas. 

The cliff dwellers were an agricultural 
people, and they cultivated corn, beans, 
cotton, and squash. They appear to have 
grown crops by means of irrigation. They 
wove cloth of cotton and of the century- 
plant fibers. Probably they domesticated 
the turkey. 

The finger-prints in their adobe mortar 
indicate that women built the stone walls. 
Among the Indian tribes of the Southwest, 
it was common for the men to quarry, 
dress, and carry the stones, while the 
women built them into walls. Women, 
too, appear to have made the pottery. 
The men probably were the weavers. The 
women ground the corn and most likely 
carried the water in jars from the springs. 
Were there more springs in the days of 
these people than now? Perhaps. Appar- 
ently they had numerous reservoirs. 
164 



a^e^a l^ertie l^ational path 

These people did not possess a written 
language, and their ways of recording 
their thoughts or preserving their experi- 
ences were poor. They made pictographs 
on stone walls and placed symbols on their 
pottery and in their weaving. Much of 
their pottery is attractive in form and of 
ornamental pattern. There are food-bowls, 
water-jars, cooking-utensils, and numer- 
ous jugs and mugs. 

They appreciated the beautiful. Their 
art, though mostly primitive, was art. It 
was generally symbolical. Although many 
of their pottery decorations were of geo- 
metric design, others represented objects 
of beauty in which flowing lines were re- 
quired. Their basketry showed good taste. 
Their architecture was good. Although 
their buildings followed varied types, a 
number of them displayed lines of beauty 
and constructive skill. 

Well-preserved mural paintings on many 
of the walls of their structures indicate 
that they had a good knowledge of dye- 
165 



^our l^ational ^ath^ 

stuffs as well as a primitive skill in pic- 
turing. Remains of figures of men, ani- 
mals, cacti, and rain-clouds form a kind 
of frieze visible on three sides of the so- 
called painted room in one of these houses. 
These paintings are believed to indicate 
that this room was used for a ceremony 
akin to the New Fire ceremony of the Hopi. 

Although nearly everything which they 
fashioned showed many elements of skill 
and beauty, they did not have many tools. 
Stone axes and hammers, scrapers, knives, 
and awls of bone were the common imple- 
ments of use. 

It may be that at one time the Mesa had 
a population of many thousands. It is pos- 
sible that the Sun Temple was built jointly 
by the inhabitants of the Spruce Tree 
House, the Cliff Palace, and other houses 
of the region. 

But few things which they left enable 

one to judge of their characteristics. They 

appear to have had the typical qualities 

of human beings. They had their super- 

i66 



0^e^a l^ertie i^ational ^arfe 

stitlons, their weaknesses, and their strong 
points. But they are gone. 

"I came like Water, and like Wind I go." 
It is true that we know but little of the 
people who formerly inhabited these build- 
ings. Surely we can learn more through 
study. Thus far there has been almost no 
systematic study, and but little careful 
excavation or attempt to preserve the 
various objects found in the ruins. A 
school of archaeology might well be estab- 
lished in this Park for the purpose of se- 
curing information about the cliff dwellers 
and giving it to the world. 

In his report on his recent excavation 
and repair of the Sun Temple, Dr. Jesse 
Walter Fewkes, of the Smithsonian Insti- 
tution, says: — 

The Mesa Verde is unique in its educational 
importance. It is destined ultimately to be a 
Mecca for all students of the prehistoric of the 
Southwest and an object lesson to all visitors 
who wish to see the best preserved buildings 
of pre-Columbian times in our country. It is 
self-evident that the excavation and repair of 
167 



gour i^ational ^arh^ 

all the ruins in this park cannot be accom- 
plished in a few years, even were it desirable 
to attempt it; the work means many years of 
arduous devotion, intelligently directed, and 
a large sum of money. It is desirable to open 
up these precious remains of antiquity care- 
fully, following a definite plan, availing our- 
selves of methods acquired by experience. The 
work should be done with care, and it will be 
an additional attraction if visitors can see how 
the work is done. Work on the group will re- 
veal important architectural features, and add 
much to our scientific information. 

Prehistoric ruins abound throughout the 
Southwest. Many show considerable skill 
in construction and also suggest that the 
buildings were the work of a people who 
had organized government. 

Mrs. Gilbert McClurg, who visited the 
Mesa Verde ruins years ago, appears to 
, have been the first to conceive the idea of 
saving these prehistoric places for the 
public — of preserving them in a Na- 
tional Park. After a campaign of a few 
years, led chiefly by Mrs. McClurg, sup- 
plemented by the work of organizations 
i68 



and individuals, the Park was established 
in 1906. 

In what is now this Park, a Spanish ex- 
ploring party discovered cliff houses in 
1 54 1. At that time the buildings had been 
abandoned for generations. No one knows 
how many centuries or millenniums had 
then elapsed since the Mesa was deserted. 
The age of these cliff houses has been esti- 
mated from five hundred to five thousand 
years. Modern discovery of the region 
appears to have been made by a govern- 
ment geological party in 1874. 

A few years later Baron Nordenskjold, 
a Swedish explorer, spent many weeks with 
these ruins, and later wrote a volume con- 
cerning them. He carried away from them 
several carloads of pottery and other prod- 
ucts. 

The first white discoverers were either 
religious fanatics or people of the pot- 
hunter type who were looking for plunder. 
They were not interested in the preserva- 
tion of any of the ruins discovered, nor of 
169 



four l^ational ^arhjes 

any of the equipment that had no com- 
mercial value. For years some of the early 
settlers and adventurers made it a busi- 
ness to search for prehistoric buildings in 
order to obtain the pottery and other treas- 
ures which they sometimes contained . Often 
these pot-hunting treasure-seekers utterly 
wrecked the buildings which they found. 
In all probability many objects of interest 
or information concerning the Mesa Verde 
cliff dwellers have been lost. 

In the autumn of 1904 I visited the ruins 
for the purpose of taking photographs and 
found a party of three pottery-hunters 
camped near the Balcony House. A part 
of their firewood that evening consisted 
of precious beams from this ancient house. 

For many years the visitors to the Mesa 
Verde noticed a huge tree-grown mound 
on the rim of the canon- wall, directly oppo- 
site the Cliff Palace. A few dressed stones, 
apparently the corner of a wall, thrust 
above the surface of this mound. Prob- 
ably there was a building beneath it. Be- 
170 



^t^a l^erDe l^ational $atk 

hind and enveloping it lay a forest of low- 
growing and limby pinon pines and cedars. 
Over all was the ever-present and brooding 
mystery of the deserted Mesa Verde. 

In July, 1915, Dr. Fewkes put a crew of 
men to work excavating the mound. As a 
result of their labors, a prehistoric stone 
building now stands in the sunshine. It 
is the shape of the capital letter D. Its 
straight front, which faces southward, 
measures one hundred and thirty-two feet; 
its semicircular back, two hundred and 
forty- five feet. 

Plainly, it was built to a preconceived 
plan. There was no patchwork, no inhar- 
monious combination. Precisely midway 
in the south wall was a recess. In another 
recess near the southwest corner was a 
fossil palm leaf. This strikingly resembles 
the rays of the sun, and together with a 
figure of the sun in the floor, suggests that 
the building was a Sun Temple. There is 
nothing to indicate that it was used or 
intended to be used as a dwelling-place. 
171 



iour Maximal ^ath^ 

The masonry is the best thus far found 
on the Mesa. It was laid with mortar of 
tough, enduring clay. The stones of the 
walls and partitions were small and were 
cut, many polished, and a few decorated. 
The figures on a number of these deco- 
rated stones consist of triangles, and one 
is the outline of a typical cliff-house dooi • 
way. The outer walls are double. None 
have outside openings. Perhaps the en- 
trances to the building were either through 
the roof or by means of subterranean pas- 
sageways from the face of the cliff just in 
front and beneath. 

In the mound upon the ruins of this 
building was found a living tree that was 
more than three hundred and sixty years 
old. A long period, perhaps several hun- 
dred years, must have been required for 
the earthen mound to accumulate upon 
the ruins, and then three hundred and sixty 
years for the tree to grow. Apparently 
the SunTemple must have been abandoned 
several hundred years ago, perhaps about 
172 



St^ejera l^ertie i^ational ^arft 

the year 1300. It appears never to have 
been occupied, and probably was in proc- 
ess of being completed when it was aban- 
doned. 

The so-called Cliff Palace in Cliff Canon 
is centrally located in the Mesa Verde 
National Park. This was a stone struc- 
ture more than three hundred feet long ' 
and with more than two hundred rooms. 
It appears to have been built in sections 
or installments, not to any consecutive 
plan. As a result, in this one building 
there are a number of types of architecture. 
In one section there is a huge square tower 
four stories high; in an adjoining section, 
a large well-built round tower. This build- 
ing probably was a home for scores of 
people. There were mill rooms in which 
com was ground, storerooms, ceremonial 
rooms, probably rooms used in religious 
worship, and other rooms called "kivas,'* 
which appear to have been used much of 
the time by the men as lounging-places. 
Fireplaces were scattered throughout the 
173 



gour l^ational ^arft^ 

building. Many of the walls were of cut 
stone, and some were plastered and adorned 
with paintings. Paint still shows on a 
number of walls. 

This park contains other large stone 
structures and hundreds of smaller cliff 
ruins. Among the buildings, besides the 
Cliff Palace, are the Spruce Tree House, 
the Balcony House, the Tunnel House, 
and numerous buildings upon the surface. 
Near Mummy Lake are a number of large, 
tree-grown mounds, similar to the re- 
cently excavated one that covered the 
Sun Temple. Beneath each of these is a 
buried stone structure. Here, apparently, 
is a buried city. 



VIII 

ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK 

Magnificent mountains in the sky, 
peak after peak along the horizon, — an 
inspiring skyline, — such is the setting 
of the Rocky Mountain National Park. 
In this playground is a twenty-five-mile 
stretch of the most rugged section of the 
Continental Divide. Here are fifty peaks 
with summits more than two miles high. 
From one hundred miles distant, out on 
the plains of Colorado or Wyoming, these 
snowy, rugged mountain-tops give one a 
thrill as they appear to join with the clouds 
and form a horizon that seems to be a part 
of the scenery of the sky. 

Splendidly grouped with these peaks 
and mountains are canons, moorlands, 
waterfalls, glaciers, lakes, forests, mea- 
dows, and wild flowers — the Rocky 
Mountains are at their best. 
175 



four l^ational ^atH 

On approaching the Park by the east 
entrance, through the long-famed Estes 
Park region, even the dullest traveler is 
thrilled with the first glimpse, and those 
who frequently behold it find the scene as 
welcome as a favorite old song. From the 
entrance, one looks down on an irregular, 
undulating, green mountain meadow, miles 
in extent. This is Estes Park. Great pines 
are scattered over it, singly and in groves; 
rocky points and cliffs rise picturesquely 
in the midst; and the Big Thompson River, 
sweeping in great folds from side to 
side, goes majestically across. High, forest- 
walled mountains surround it, and the 
great jagged snowy range stands splen- 
didly above. 

The Rocky Mountain Park is glorified 
with transcendent forms of the beautiful 
and the sublime. In it bees hum and 
beavers build; birds give melody to the 
forest depth, and butterflies with painted 
wings circle the sunny air. Mountain sheep 
in classic poses watch from the cliffs, 
176 



eagles soar in the blue, speckled trout 
sprinkle the clear streams, and the varied 
voice of the coyote echoes when the after- 
glow falls. From top to bottom the park 
is beautified with dainty, exquisite wild 
flowers of brightest hues; they crowd the 
streams, wave on the hills, shine in wood- 
land vistas, and color snow-edges every- 
where. 

This Park has an area of about three 
hundred and sixty square miles. Its ter- 
raced alpine heights are about equally di- 
vided between the Atlantic and the Pacific 
slopes. It is twenty- five miles long, from 
twelve to twenty miles wide, and about 
one mile high from lowest to highest alti- 
tudes. 

The greater part of the Park lies above 
the altitude of nine thousand feet. Its south- 
east comer is within forty miles of Denver; 
the northeast comer about the same dis- 
tance from Cheyenne. A number of rail- 
roads run close to it, and the Lincoln High- 
way is about twenty miles away. The Park 
177 



iour l^ational ^arfeies 

is only thirty hours from Chicago, and its 
accessibiUty adds to its invitingness as a 
playground. 

Side by side in it are two dominating 
peaks. These are Long's Peak, 14,255 feet 
high, and Mount Meeker, 14,000 feet above 
the sea. These great summits were a land- 
mark for the primitive red man who saw 
them from the plains. For generations the 
plains Indians spoke of them as the "Two 

Guides." 

Viewed as a whole from a neighbormg 
mountain-top, either on the eastern or the 
western side, the Park presents an impos- 
ing appearance. My favorite near-by view- 
point is the summit of the Twin Sister 

Peaks. 

In commenting on the appearance of the 
eastern slope Dr. Ferdinand V. Hayden. the 
celebrated geologist, wrote as follows: — 

Not only has Nature amply supplied this 
with features of rare beauty and surroundings 
of admirable grandeur, but it has thus dis- 
tributed them that the eye of an artist may 
178 



^locfep a^ountain i^ational ^arft 

rest with perfect satisfaction on the complete 
picture represented. It may be said, perhaps, 
that the more minute details of the scenery- 
are too decorative in their character, showing, 
as they do, the irregular picturesque groups 
of hills, buttes, products of erosion, and the 
finely moulded ridges — the effect is pleasing 
in the extreme. 

Mountain-climbers will find a number 
of towering view-points. Long's Peak is 
the superior one, and the most dominating 
single feature in the Park. It is a moun- 
tain of striking individuality and peculiar 
ruggedness, though not extremely difficult 
to climb. Standing a little apart from 
numbers of other peaks, it is placed so as 
to command rugged near-by views as well 
as wonderful far-reaching vistas that van- 
ish in the light and shadow of distance. 
Among the other peaks that climbers 
would do well to stand upon are Mount 
Meeker, Hague's Peak, and Specimen 
Mountain. Among the lower peaks that 
command magnificent scenes, I would name 
Meadow Mountain, at the southern end 
179 



four i^ational ^arfeies 

of the Park, as one of the best. Among 
other excellent views are those from Flat- 
Top Mountain, Gem Lake, Echo Moun- 
tain, near Grand Lake, and a number of 
places along the summit of Trail Ridge. 

The topography of the Park is one big 
glacial story, which in places is of unusual 
interest. This fascinating story left by the 
Ice King is for the most part well preserved 
and forms one of the Park's chief attrac- 
tions. Nowhere in America are glacial rec- 
ords of such prominence more numerous, 
accessible, and easily read. 

A few small glaciers remain — one on 
the eastern slope of Long's Peak, and An- 
drews, Sprague's, and Hallet Glaciers in 
the north half of the eastern slope. These 
glaciers are mere remnants, but none the 
less interesting. 

Altogether there are more than one hun- 
dred lakes and tarns in the Park. Most of 
these are small, but each has its peculiarly 
attractive setting.' With few exceptions, 
these lakes repose in basins of solid rock 
1 80 




y < 

O 



that were excavated for them by glacial 
action. In the Park are also many stupen- 
dous moraines. 

Each year more than a thousand varie- 
ties of wild blossoms give color and charm 
to this favored spot. They are to be 
counted among the four chief attractions, 
the other three being Long's Peak, the gla- 
ciation, and the timber-line. Of the bril- 
liantly colored wild flowers many take on 
large and vigorous form, while in the alpine 
moorlands numerous species are dwarfed 
and low-growing. A few bright blossoms 
jewel the summits of the highest peaks. 
Flowers grow wherever there is a bit of soil 
for them to live in. 

On the summit of Long's Peak, nearly 
three miles up, in a number of places I have 
seen bright primroses and polemonium, 
blue mertensia and lavender-colored phlox. 
There are ragged wild gardens of alpine 
flowers nearly thirteen thousand feet above 
the sea. More than one hundred varieties 
of flowers brighten the ledges of the clifl"s, 
i8i 



iour i^ational ^ath^ 

fringe the snow-piles, and color the moor- 
lands of the heights above the limits of tree 
growth. The alpine blooms that live in 
dry or wind-swept places are dwarfed and 
flattened. They keep their beauty close to 
the earth. Many of these little flowering 
people are so greatly dwarfed that the 
plant with its leaf and blossom does not 
rise a quarter of an inch above the earth. 
Among these are the phlox, harebell, and 
the columbine. 

The Mariposa lily's, perhaps, is the most 
classic petal in the Park. Among its con- 
spicuous neighbors are the fringed gentian, 
the silver-and-blue columbine, the elab- 
orate calypso orchid, and the graceful 
harebell. Among the other abundant and 
beautiful blossoms are violets, daisies, 
asters, black-eyed Susans, paint-brushes, 
rock-roses, pasque-flowers, which Helen 
Hunt called Maltese kittens, tiger lilies, 
golden pond-lilies, and anemones. Many 
of these flowers are perfectly formed and 
carry petals of cleanest, deepest color. 
182 



tiothp fountain l^attonal ^arh 

There are many kinds of wild life in the 
Park. Mountain sheep probably number 
several hundreds. Elk are increasing in 
number; so, too, are deer, which are al- 
ready common. There are a number of 
black bears, possibly a few remaining griz- 
zlies, and a few foxes, wolves, lions, and 
coyotes. The beaver population is numer- 
ous, and in many places are extensive 
beaver colonies with dams, ponds, and 
houses. 

Among about one hundred and fifty 
species of birds are found a few golden 
eagles. These nest in the heights. The 
rose-finch and the ptarmigan live the year 
round near the snow-line above the lim- 
its of tree growth. Among the common 
birds most frequently seen are the robin, 
bluebird, blackbird, hummingbird, pine 
siskin, goldfinch, magpie, white-crowned 
sparrow, house wren, and Rocky Moun- 
tain jay. 

During the flower-filled, sun-flooded days 
of June, while the evening shadows are 
183 



iour l^ational ^ath^ 

crossing the openings, the song of the her- 
mit thrush is often heard, its beautiful 
silvery notes mingling strangely with the 
wild surroundings. In June, too, the ever- 
cheerful water-ouzel carols most intensely 
by his chosen home along the alpine 
streams. Likewise in this month the mar- 
velous solitaire sings among the crags far 
up the slopes, close to where the forest ends 
and the alpine moorlands begin. 

Here are primeval forests, torn by 
canons and pierced by crags and rock 
ridges. Among the more common trees are 
the lodge-pole pine and the Engelmann 
spruce. Other species are the alpine fir, 
Douglas spruce, limber pine, and Western 
yellow pine. The aspen is found in groves, 
groups, and scattered growths in the 
moister places all over the woodland. 

The timber-line in the Park is one of 
the most picturesque and interesting in the 
world. It is strangely appealing and 
thought-compelling. This is the forest- 
frontier. Its average altitude is about 
184 



Iflochp i^ountain l^attonal ^arh 

eleven thousand five hundred feet above 
the sea. Timber-Hne in the Alps is only 
about sixty-five hundred feet. Thus it 
will be seen that the climate of this Rocky 
Mountain section is far more friendly to 
wood growth than that of the Alps. 

The trees persistently try to climb up- 
ward, and their struggle for existence be- 
comes deadly. The wind blows off their 
arms, and cuts them with flying sand. The 
cold dwarfs them, and for nine months in 
the year the snow tries to twist and crush 
the life out of them. Many have limbs and 
bark on one side only ; others are completely 
stripped of bark. They seldom grow over 
eight feet high, and numbers grow along 
the ground like vines. In the drier places 
at timber-line the limber pine has sole pos- 
session, while in the moister places the 
Engelmann spruce predominates, and is 
sometimes accompanied by dwarfed aspen, 
birch, subalpine fir, and willow. Above the 
timber-line are crags, snow-piles, and al- 
pine-flower meadows. 
i8s 



Traveling along the eastern slope of the 
Park, one encounters a number of promi- 
nent attractions. 

In the south, Wild Basin, a splendidly 
glaciated realm of several square miles, 
almost completely surrounded with high 
peaks, contains lakes, forests, moraines, and 
gorges. It retains many wild glacial rec- 
ords of peculiar interest. North of it is the 
Long's Peak group, consisting of Long's 
Peak, Mount Meeker, Mount Lady Wash- 
ington, Chasm Lake and Gorge, and Mills 
Moraine. This moraine is one of the most 
interesting in the park. Chasm Lake, at 
the foot of the precipitous eastern slope of 
Long's Peak, has the wildest setting of all 
the many Park lakes. 

To the east of Long's Peak lies Tahosa 
Valley, and just beyond this rise the Twin 
Sister Peaks. Between Long's Peak and 
the Range is Glacier Gorge, a deep glaci- 
ated canon. At the end of this, in the Con- 
tinental Divide, is the Loch Vale region. 
Here the terraced floor is varied with tarns, 
i86 



i 



titxthp isr^ountain l^ational ^arft 

waterfalls, flowery meadows, grassy spaces, 
and storm-battered trees. Around it and 
rising above it are stupendous cliffs and 
precipices of glaciated rock. Above it to 
the west is Andrews Glacier. Eastward 
from it lies the Bierstadt Moraine, named 
after Albert Bierstadt, whose pictures 
gave fame to the region. A trail crosses 
the Continental Divide from Flat-Top 
Mountain, which is approximately in the 
center of the Park. 

To the north of Flat-Top Mountain lie 
Fern and Odessa Lakes. They are the 
best-known and most popular lakes in the 
Park, but there are a number of others 
of somewhat similar character and with 
equally scenic surroundings. Beyond these 
is Sprague's Glacier; also Forest Canon, 
above which extends the scene-command- 
ing Trail Ridge. Again beyond, the Fall 
River automobile road crosses the Conti- 
nental Divide. 

In the northeast corner of the Park lies 
the Mummy Range, the highest peak be- 
187 



iour i^ational ^arftief 

ing Hague's. On its northern slope is Hal- 
let Glacier. A bill now (191 7) before Con- 
gress provides that Deer Mountain, Gem 
Lake, and the Twin Sister Peaks be added 
to the Park.^ 

On the western slope, at the south end, 
is a combination of lovely and magnificent 
scenes. The great feature on the west side 
is Grand Lake, the largest lake in Colo- 
rado. It is the source of the Grand River, 
and furnishes a part of the water that roars 
through the Grand Canon of the Colorado 
in Arizona. The North Inlet and the East 
Inlet are scenic gorges through which 
streams rush from the heights down into 
Grand Lake. The East Inlet region, be- 
tween Shoshone Peak and Grand Lake, 
has a remarkable glacial story of its own. 

In the northwest comer of the Park 
stands Specimen Mountain, an excellent 
view-point. This is probably a sleeping 
volcano. It is the most famous mountain- 

^ This bill passed after the above was in type. See 
map of the Park. 

188 




FERN LAKE 
ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK 



jUochp !3t?ountain i^ational 5^arft 

sheep range in the Park. Its grassy slopes 
and summit contain spaces of salty ooze 
that attracts them. Many times I have 
seen a flock of one hundred or more in the 
crater. 



IX 

THE GRAND CANON 

John Muir strongly urged that a 
National Park be made of the Grand 
Canon of the Colorado. In commenting 
on this Titan of canons, he said : — 

No matter how far you have wandered 
hitherto, or how many famous valleys and 
gorges you have seen, this one, the Grand 
Cafion of the Colorado, will seem as novel to 
you, as unearthly in the color and grandeur 
and quantity of its architecture, as if you had 
found it after death, on some other star; so 
incomparably lovely and grand and supreme 
is it above all the other cafions. 

It is hoped that Congress will early 
create a Grand Canon National Park. The 
territory most seriously considered em- 
braces a hundred-mile stretch of the cafion 
with a narrow bit of each rim. This would 
extend about fifty miles up and an equal 
distance down the river from Grand Canon 
190 



€l^e <Dranti Canon 

Station. It would thus include only about 
half the length of the Grand Canon, and 
no part of any other canon. I should like 
to see it extended another hundred miles 
up the river. It would then embrace not 
less than two hundred miles of the river, 
and would include Marble Canon and a 
part of Glen Canon. But, whatever its 
length, it should include a broad forest 
border all the way, on both rims of the 
canon. 

To enable the public to see this titanic 
gorge in the most comfortable manner and 
from the best points of view, it is necessary 
to have more public roads and trails. There 
is great need that this unmatched wonder 
have National Park protection and de- 
velopment. At present the main trail to the 
bottom of the canon is a private toll trail! 

Visitors to almost any great scene are 
wont to compare it with some other scene; 
it reminds them of this place or that place. 
But when one first views Crater Lake, or 
while one is in the presence of the Big Trees 
191 



iour i^ational ^atk^ 

for the first time, memory is suspended; 
and when one first beholds the Grand 
Canon, it does not remind him of this or 
that — it completely possesses the observer, 
sweeps other scenes and places out of mind. 
Presently comes desire for a thousandfold 
capacity of feeling and comprehension. The 
thing is too vast and splendid for ordinary 
faculties. 

I have boated In many of the canons of 
the Colorado and have camped and tramped 
along their rims. Often I have looked down 
into them when they were filled with mists; 
when broken clouds hung over them ; when 
sunshine or moonlight illumined their 
depths, from which I have looked forth 
under like conditions. But to me, whether 
in summer or when snow piles the rim, the 
Grand Canon never loses its intense im- 
pressiveness. 

The Walhalla Plateau is an extraordi- 
nary canon view-point and is likely to be- 
come one of the most famous places on the 
earth. This narrow plateau thrusts ten 
192 




Bu iierniission of the yaliuiiul J'arl: Service, Departmtnt of the Interior 

LOOKING WEST FROM NORTH SIDE OF GRAND CANON 
Point Sublime to right in distance. Isis Temple on left. 



miles out into the vast, deep, airy Grand 
Canon. It extends from the north rim, be- 
tween Bright Angel Canon and the inside 
bend of the main cafion opposite the Canon 
of the Little Colorado. A most command- 
ing peninsula it is, with wide and enor- 
mous depths sweeping almost entirely 
around it. Other commanding view-points 
on the north rim are Point Sublime and 
Bright Angel Point. Three excellent view- 
points on the south rim are Grand View, 
Hopi Point, and the El Tovar. Grand 
View is a few miles up the river from the 
El Tovar Hotel, and opposite Cape Royal 
of the Walhalla Plateau. 

The Colorado River in Arizona flows 
through a series of twenty vast canons that 
have a length of about one thousand miles. 
Most of them are end to end with only a 
mere break between. Of these, the Grand 
Canon is the cafion of cafions. Counting 
downstream, it is the eighteenth of the 
series; counting upstream, the third. The 
cafion is from seven to fifteen miles wide, 
193 



iour l^ational ^arfe^ 

and from four thousand to six thousand 
feet deep. It is an enormous gulf two hun- 
dred miles long, in solid rock. Less than 
one thousand feet across at the bottom, and 
eight to ten miles across at the top, it may 
be called a rough V-shaped gorge; or, to- 
gether with its tributary canons, it might 
be called an inverted hollow mountain- 
range. This range, if turned out upon the 
plateau, would measure in places more 
than two hundred miles in length and nearly 
forty miles in width, with summits rising 
nearly seven thousand feet; and it would 
be diversified with ridges, gorges, plateaus, 
spurs, and peaks. 

The Grand Canon of the Colorado is a 
masterpiece of erosion — a wonderful story 
carved in rock. It was excavated and 
washed out by the river. It is not an ordi- 
nary mountain canon, for it lies in a com- 
paratively level plain or plateau. During 
the ages, the d6bris-laden water sliding over 
its inclined bed of solid rock dug, sawed, 
and cut the canon to the bottom. The river 
194 



€()e 4Branti Canon 

not only carried away all the material worn 
from the bottom, but the thousandfold 
more that tumbled into it from the ever- 
caving walls. 

Here is color in magnificent array. Most 
of the strata are perfectly horizontal and of 
great thickness, and each has an individual 
color. Many of the walls are brown or red, 
and there are strata of gray, yellow, gray- 
ish brown, and grayish green. All these are 
massed and arranged in vast and broken 
color pictures and landscapes, some of 
which are a mile high and several miles in 
length. 

The top, or rim, of the canon is in an ex- 
tensive arid region. Water is extremely 
scarce; in a number of places not a drop is 
available within miles. If a boatman is 
wrecked in the canon, he has little oppor- 
tunity of escaping. If he should manage to 
climb out on the desolate, almost unin- 
habited plateau, he would be likely to 
perish for lack of water. 

The canon has a climate of its own. In 
195 



iour i^ational ^arfejer 

the bottom, the temperature frequently 
shows a range of one hundred degrees in- 
side of twenty-four hours. Its great depth 
and peculiar wall exposure give it a cli- 
matic variety. The walls that face the 
north are much cooler than those facing the 
south. The temperature at the top differs 
from that at the bottom, and midway on 
the walls is a temperature distinct from 
either of the others. On the rim at El 
Tovar it may be a winter day ; you descend 
to the river and there find a mild climate, 
with birds singing and flowers in bloom. 
The six thousand feet of descent to the 
river gives a climatic change that approxi- 
mates a southern journey of two thousand 
miles. This plateau is forested and on the 
northern rim of the canon the tree-growth 
is heavy. 

Flowers bloom in the canon every month 
in the year. In the niches and on the ter- 
races are the columbine, lupine, stonecrop, 
kinnikinnick, dandelion, thistle, and paint- 
brush. Sagebrush and greasewood occur 
196 



€l&e <Drant» Canon 

in many places. The Douglas spruce Is 
found upon the southern wall, the cotton- 
wood and willow in the bottom. Beavers, 
a few deer, many rabbits, wildcats, and 
wolves are found in a few places in the bot- 
tom of the canon, and sheep and lions upon 
the terraces. But the larger part of the un- 
broken and terraced walls is barren and 
lifeless. 

Among the birds that gladden this gorge 
are the mockingbird, pinon jay, robin, 
quail, hummingbird, kingfisher, swallow, 
and owl. Here, too, you will hear that me- 
lodious and hopeful singer the cafion wren. 
Over this vast gulf butterflies with daintily 
colored wings float in lovely laziness. 

In a number of the canons, ruined cliff 
houses are numerous, and a few of these are 
found far north in Glen Canon. The walls, 
in places, are marked with picture writing. 
This probably was the work of the cliff 
dwellers or of the Indians. 

Much of the cafion region may well be 
called the "No Man's Land" of the conti- 
197 



iour i^ationai ^arh^ 

nent. In it are a numerous and assorted 
lot of men with unknown histories. Min- 
gling with these are Indians, miners, health- 
seekers, and strange and interesting char- 
acters, among whom are aged trappers and 
prospectors and real cowboys who have 
survived the days of adventures. 

Water is the great sculptor of the face of 
nature. The gentle raindrop grapples with 
mountains of solid rock, and with never- 
ending persistence drags them piecemeal 
into the sea. Here the material is rede- 
posited in sedimentary strata, and this may 
emerge into the light in the ages yet to be. 

A narrow ditch in the earth will widen by 
the caving-in of its sides. If the ditch be 
deepened, the caved-in matter being re- 
moved, it will continue to widen. And so it 
is with this canon; the weathering or the 
caving-in of these walls goes ever on. The 
sharpness of the walls, and many of their 
striking features, are due to the peculiar 
climatic conditions that exist in this re- 
gion — the short rainy seasons and long dry 
198 



€l)e ^ranti Canon 

periods. Had there been a more even and 
abundant precipitation, it is probable that 
more vegetation would have been produced, 
which would have had a marked influence 
upon the walls, giving them a more rounded 
and less interesting form. 

The canon broadens with the years. Cut 
narrow by the river, it has gradually wid- 
ened by the caving-in of the walls. If it had 
remained as the river cut it, it would now 
be as narrow at the top as it is in the bot- 
tom — a canon about a mile deep, only a 
few hundred feet wide, and with perpendic- 
ular walls. As it is, the walls rise through 
a series of shattered inclines, precipitous 
slopes and terraces, with here and there a 
vertical section. 

Well may the Canon of the Colorado be 
called the greatest inanimate wonder in the 
world. Written in the exposed and remain- 
ing rock-strata through which the river has 
cut its way is a wonderful story of the past, 
a marvelous and splendid romance. At an 
enormously remote time the Grand Canon 
199 



four l^ational ^axh0 

plateau rose from the primeval sea. After 
long exposure and great weathering it 
sank back, remained submerged for ages, 
and thousands of feet of strata were de- 
posited upon it. Again it emerged, was ex- 
posed "a million years and a day," during 
which aeon thousands of feet of strata were 
eroded away. Again it went down into the 
sea, and upon it were piled thousands of 
feet of additional strata. A fourth time it 
rose slowly above the water. As this pla- 
teau was rising, its surface was acted upon 
by the elements. The part of the plateau 
surrounding the Grand Caiion proper was 
the scene of repeated volcanic action and 
earthquake disturbance. Here the strata 
have been subjected to repeated faultings, 
heavings, tiltings, and lava-flows. This up- 
lift imprisoned an enormous Eocene lake 
that occupied much of what is now the 
Colorado River basin. This lake the river 
drained. The drainage was quite probably 
caused by the fact that the eastern part of 
the territory was uplifted higher than the 
200 



€f)e OBranli Caiion 

western. The drainage-system of the Colo- 
rado River, as we now know it, began at 
that time to take on form and its waters 
started to cut the canon. This crude out- 
line covers cycling ages, and probably rep- 
resents millions of years. 

Through several thousand years the 
plateau slowly rose, and all this time the 
river was gradually cutting its way down 
into it. Finally the plateau ceased to rise 
and long remained at a standstill. After 
cutting down to its first base level, the 
river had so little fall that its waters, over- 
laden with debris, ceased deepening the 
channel. The widening of the canon went 
steadily on. Again the plateau slowly rose, 
perhaps two thousand feet. This uplift 
increased the fall of the river and again set 
it to deepening its channel, a work it is still 
doing. 

The waters of the Colorado River are 
heavily laden with sediment. During the 
ages it has transported an inconceivable 
bulk of eroded material to the ocean. Much 

201 



iour l^ational ^arh^ 

of this has come from its three hundred 
thousand square miles of mountainous 
drainage basin and all the material which 
formerly occupied the vast spaces of its 
numerous canons. Continual caving of the 
walls compels the river to spend most of 
its time and energy in breaking up this 
debris and carrying it forward to the sea. 
This condition has existed for thousands 
of years. 

It should be borne in mind that the trans- 
porting capacity of running water varies 
as the sixth power of its velocity. There- 
fore when a stream doubles its velocity it 
is competent to move particles sixty-four 
times greater than before. If its rate of 
flow is trebled, its transporting power is 
increased seven hundred and twenty-nine 
times. This goes to explain the frightful 
havoc of streams at times of flood. 

The tributary streams of the Colorado 
come from arid regions and from the des- 
erts, and are subject to sudden violent 
cloud-bursts and enormous floods. Though 

202 



these are of short duration, they are of 
tremendous force. Earthy matter, rocky 
debris, and ofttimes hundreds of trees are 
swept along by the waters that rush in from 
side caiions like an awful avalanche. Lodged 
driftwood over one hundred feet above 
normal river-level tells of the magnitude of 
these wild floods. 

Where a stream has all the load of any 
given degree of fineness that it is capable 
of carrying, the entire energy of the de- 
scending water is consumed by the trans- 
portation of the water and its burden, so 
that none is applied to erosion. If it has an 
excess of load, its velocity is thereby les- 
sened and its power to transport is dimin- 
ished; consequently a part of its load is 
dropped. If it has less than a full load, it is 
in a condition to receive more, which it 
eagerly does. Thereby its bed is swept 
clean, and then only does erosion become 
possible. Thus it is seen that the work of 
transportation may at times monopolize 
the entire energy of a stream to the exclu- 
203 



iour l^ational ^arh^ 

sion of erosion; or the two works may be 
carried forward at the same time. 

The rapidity of erosion depends upon the 
hardness, size, and number of the fragments 
in the flowing water, upon the durability 
of the stream-bed, and upon the velocity 
of the current, the element of velocity being 
of double importance, since it determines 
not only the size but the speed of the parti- 
cle with which it works. Transportation is 
favored by an increased water-supply as 
much as by increased declivity, because 
when a stream increases in volume the in- 
crease in its velocity outruns the increase 
in volume, and its transporting power is 
correspondingly augmented. It is due to 
this that a stream which is subject to floods 
— periodical or otherwise — has a much 
greater transporting power than it could 
possess were its total water-supply evenly 
distributed throughout the year. 

During one period of volcanic activity 
the focus of lava-flows into the canon was 
at Lava Falls. A number of lava-streams 
204 



€60 (Btaxit Canon 

burst directly into the canon through the 
walls, while several flows poured their fiery- 
floods over the brink. What a wild and 
spectacular condition existed while the 
river, deep in the canon, received these trib- 
utaries of liquid fire! When the flow ceased, 
the canon for sixty miles was filled with 
lava to the depth of about five hundred 
feet. The lava cooled, and in time was 
eroded away. The records of this spectac- 
ular story are still easily read. 

Through these thousand miles of caiion, 
more than one fifth of which is the Grand 
Caiion, the river has a fall of about five 
thousand feet, unevenly divided. There 
are long stretches of quiet water, but in 
the Lodore, Cataract, Marble, and Grand 
Caflons are numerous and turbulent cur- 
rents flowing amid masses of wild, rocky 
debris. There are about five hundred bad 
rapids and many others of lesser power. 
Most of these rapids are caused by rock- 
jams — dams formed by masses of rocky 
debris that have fallen from the walls above 
205 



Hour l^ational ^arh^ef 

or have been swept into the main canon by 
tributary streams. A few rapids are caused 
by ribs of hard, resistant rock that have not 
been worn down to the level of the softer 
rock. 

The canon was discovered by Spaniards 
in 1540. A government expedition visited 
it in 1859. The report of this expedition, 
printed in 1861, is accompanied with a 
picture of an ideal canon. It is shown as 
narrow, with appallingly high vertical 
walls. Lieutenant Ives, who was in charge, 
thus closes his account: — 

Ours has been the first and will doubtless be 
the last party of Whites to visit this profitless 
location. It seems intended by Nature that 
the Colorado River, along the greater portion 
of its lonely and majestic way, shall be forever 
un visited and undisturbed. 

Ten years later Major John W. Powell 
explored the series of canons from end to 
end. Hundreds of expeditions that have 
attempted to go through them have failed. 
Of the half-dozen that succeeded, one was 
206 



€{)e <i5ranti Canon 

organized and conducted by Julius F. 
Stone, a manufacturer of Columbus, Ohio. 
"Why," I asked Mr. Stone, "did you 
take the hazard and endure the acute hard- 
ship of this expedition? " His reply was: — • 

To photograph consecutively the entire 
canon system of the Green and Colorado 
Rivers, which, so far as the upper cafions are 
concerned, had not yet been done. We also 
wished to determine the accuracy of some 
statements heretofore made which seemed 
reasonably open to question. 

Mr. Stone went all the way through the 
cafion, took hundreds of photographs, and 
made numerous measurements. He made 
a thorough study of this canon, added 
greatly to our knowledge of it, and cor- 
rected a number of misconceptions con- 
cerning it. 

But [continued Mr. Stone] it was also to get 
away from work! For the fun of the thing! 
Year after year the voice of many waters 
had said: "Come join us in our joyous, bois- 
terous journey to the sea, and you shall know 
the ecstasy of wrestling with Nature naked- 
handed and in the open, as befits the measure 
207 



Sour l^ational ^ath^ 

of a man." It takes on many forms and num- 
berless variations, this thing called play. Its 
appealing voices come from far and near, in 
waking and in dreams; from quiet, peaceful 
places they allure with the assurance of longed- 
for rest; from the deeps of unfrequented re- 
gions they whisper of eager day- and night- 
time hours brimming with the fullness of 
heart's desire, while bugle- throated, their chal- 
lenge sounds forever from every unsealed 
height. 

I presume it is quite true that the chance of 
disaster (provided we consider death as being 
such) followed us like the eyes of the forest 
that note every move of the intruder but never 
reveal themselves. But somehow or other the 
snarling threat of the rapids did not creep 
into the little red hut where fear lives, and 
so burden our task with irresolution or the 
handicap of indecision; therefore, whatever 
dangers may have danced invisible attend- 
ance on our daily toil, they rarely revealed 
themselves in the form of accident, and never 
in the shape of difficulties too great to be 
overcome, though sometimes the margin was 
rather small. 

Looking back now at the chance of our 
having been caught, a shade of hesitation flits 
over the abiding desire to see it all again, but 
the free, buoyant life of the open, unvexed by 

208 



i 



the sedate and superfluous trifles of conven- 
tionality, the spirit of fair companionship 
vouchsafed by the wilderness, and the river 
that seemed to take us by the hand and lead 
us down its gorgeous aisles where grandeur, 
glory, and desolation are all merged into one 
— these still are as a voice and a vision that 
hold the imagination with singular enchant- 
ment. 

Any one interested in the geology of the 
Grand Cafion will find much in the books 
of Powell and Dellenbaugh, but best of all 
are the recent reports of the Geological 
Survey. For glimpses of the interesting 
characters who frequent this region, and 
for a sober account of an array of Grand 
Cafion adventures, nothing equals the 
narrative in "Through the Grand Caiion 
from Wyoming to Mexico," by Ellsworth 
L. Kolb. 

Professor John C. Van Dyke, author of 
"The Desert," has most ably summed up 
the Grand Canon in three monumental 
sentences :" More mysterious in its depth 
than the Himalayas in their height. . . . 
209 



four i^ational ^atk^ 

The Grand Canon remains not the eighth 
but the first wonder of the world. There 
is nothing Hke it." 

The land of form, the realm of music 
and of song — running, pouring, rushing, 
rhythmic waters; but preeminently a land 
of color: flowing red, yellow, orange, crim- 
son and purplish, green and blue. Miles 
of black and white. This riot and regular- 
ity and vast distribution of color in contin- 
ual change — it glows and is subdued with 
the shift of shadows, with the view-point 
of the sun. 



I 



X 

LASSEN VOLCANIC NATIONAL PARK 

An active volcano is the imposing ex- 
hibit in the Lassen Volcanic National Park. 
The fiery Lassen Peak rises in the midst 
of telling volcanic records that have been 
made and changed through many thou- 
sand years. 

This Park is in northern California. It 
is about one hundred and fifty miles south 
of the Crater Lake National Park. The 
territory embraces the southern end of 
the Cascade Mountains, the northern end 
of the Sierra, and through it is the cross- 
connection between the Sierra and the 
Coast Range. The area is about one hun- 
dred and twenty-five square miles. The 
major portion of the Park lies at an alti- 
tude of between six thousand and eight 
thousand feet, the lowest part being about 
four thousand feet, while the highest point, 

211 



four i^ational ^arh^er 

the summit of Lassen Peak, is 10,437 feet 
above the level of the sea. The Park is 
reached by automobile roads. It is easily 
accessible from the Southern Pacific Rail- 
road in the upper Sacramento Valley, and 
from the Western Pacific Railroad on the 
Feather River. 

The scientific and scenic merits of this 
territory were of such uncommon order 
that in 1907 they were reserved in the 
Mount Lassen and Cinder Cone National 
Monuments. Both these reservations are 
now merged into the Lassen Volcanic 
National Park. 

Lassen Peak is one of the great vol- 
canoes of the Pacific Coast. Most of the 
material in it, and that of the surrounding 
territory, appears to be of volcanic origin. 
It is in the margin of one of the largest 
lava-fields in the world. The lava in this 
vast field extends northward through west- 
ern Oregon and Washington and far 
eastward, including southern Idaho and 
the Yellowstone National Park. It has 
212 



%a^0m t^olcantc i^ational ^avh 

an area of about two hundred and fifty 
thousand square miles, over parts of which 
the lava is of great depth. 

Lassen is the southernmost fire moun- 
tain of that numerous group of volcanoes 
that have so greatly changed the surface 
of the Northwest. Among its conspicuous 
volcanic companions are Crater Lake, 
formerly Mount Mazama, Mount Hood, 
Mount St. Helens, Mount Baker, and 
Mount Rainier. Until Lassen Peak burst 
forth in 19 14 it had slumbered for cen- 
turies, and was commonly considered ex- 
tinct. It has probably been intermit- 
tently active for ages. Many geologists 
think that this activity has extended 
through not less than two million years. 
Just how long it may show its red tongue 
and its black clouds of breath is uncertain ; 
and just how violent and how voluminous 
its eruptions may become are matters of 
conjecture. 

All about Lassen Peak are striking ex- 
hibits of vulcanlsm — fields of lava, quan- 
213 



four i^ational ^atU$ 

tities of obsidian or natural glass, sulphur 
springs, hot springs, volcanic sand and 
volcanic bombs, and recent volcanic to- 
pography, including Snag Lake. 

Two of the imposing cafions here are 
Los Molinos and Warner Canon. These 
and other changes in the sides of Lassen 
Peak illustrate the old, ever-interesting^ 
and eternal story of erosion. Both these 
canons are wild places which have cut and 
eroded deeply into the ancient lavas of 
Mount Lassen. Frost and water have re- 
shaped the work of fire. The mountain's 
sides show that it withstood the latest 
visits of the Ice King. What appear to 
be the distinct records of glacial erosion 
mark many spaces of its slopes. 

The eruption of May 19, 1915, pro- 
duced many changes. A volume of super- 
heated gases burst out beneath the deeply 
snow-covered northeast slope. The snow 
was instantly changed into water and 
steam. The mighty downrush and onrush 
of water wrecked the channel of Lost 
214 



Hajef^en Bolcanic l^ational ^arft 

Creek for several miles. Meadows were 
piled with boulders, rock fragments, and 
finer debris. Trees were uprooted or 
broken off, carried downward, and left in 
piles of fierce confusion. 

The hot gases played havoc with the 
forests. A stretch from a quarter of a mile 
to nearly a mile wide and about ten miles 
long was killed by the heat of the sweep- 
ing hurricane. Thousands of trees were 
instantly killed and their green changed to 
brown. Others were charred. Forest fires 
were started in a number of places. 

The spectacular ruins which this left 
behind — the trees, wreckage, slides, the 
changes made by ashes — may now be 
viewed with ease and safety. It is prob- 
able that for years to come this volcanic 
wreckage will be seen by thousands of 
visitors annually. 

Fiery Lassen Peak is snow-crowned. 
One may ride to its summit on horseback. 
From the top one has magnificent views of 
the mountains to the north, the distant 

215 



four l^ational ^ath^ 

Coast Range, and the mountains east- 
ward by the Great Basin. On the whole, 
the surrounding mountain distances are 
hardly excelled for grandeur in the entire 
country. 

Cinder Cone is about ten miles to the 
northeast of Lassen Peak. It has an alti- 
tude of only 6907 feet. It appears to have 
been built up chiefly during the last two 
hundred years and for the most part by 
two eruptions. One of these occurred 
nearly two hundred years ago. It origi- 
nated Stump Lake and ejected and spread 
materials over considerable territory. The 
more recent eruption appears to have 
taken place less than a century ago. In 
the summer of 1890 I found in the crater 
a lodge-pole pine that was about eighty 
years of age. 

Cinder Cone is a strikingly symmetrical 
small crater formed of cinders and other 
volcanic products. It stands in a lava- 
field that has an area of about three square 
miles. Its base measures about two thou- 
216 



%a^0m l^olcanic |I5ational ^arh 

sand feet in diameter, its truncated cone 
seven hundred and fifty feet, and it is 
about six hundred and fifty feet high. Its 
well-preserved crater is two hundred and 
forty feet deep and is nicely funnel-shaped. 

The Indians of the region had a popular 
tradition of the intense activity of this 
cone about three centuries ago. This 
tradition was that for a long time the sky 
was black with ashes and smoke. Thou- 
sands of acres of forest were buried or 
smothered. The world appeared to be 
coming to an end. But finally the sun 
appeared, red as blood. The sky cleared, 
and volcanic activity ceased. 

A number of the hot springs are agi- 
tated almost enough to be called geysers. 
Cold and mineral springs abound. There 
are a number of lively streams and plung- 
ing waterfalls. 

The lake-area is twenty-three hundred 

acres. The largest of the lakes is Lake 

Bidwell. Cinder Cone stands between 

two lakes which appear to have been 

217 



Hour l^ational ^arftie? 

formerly one. The eruption of this cone 
probably extended a lava-flow across the 
lake, dividing it into two parts. An out- 
pouring of volcanic material apparently 
made a dam, which formed a reservoir, 
now occupied by Stump Lake. This filled 
with water and drowned a forest growth. 
Through the surface of this lake still 
thrust numerous tree-trunks of the drowned 
forest. The outburst of Cinder Cone that 
formed this lake and overwhelmed the 
forest probably took place nearly two 
hundred years ago. Other lakes are Juni- 
per, Tilman, and Manzanita Lakes. 

The greater portion of the Park is for- 
ested. Among the more common species 
of trees are Jeffrey pine, red fir, mountain 
hemlock, lodge-pole pine, white fir, and 
incense cedar. In places among the forests 
are beautiful mountain meadows. 

There are scores of varieties of wild 
flowers. Most of these grow under favor- 
able conditions; have warmth, moisture, 
and rich soil; and they show bright, clean 
218 



%a^^m Volcanic l^ational ^arft 

blossoms. The district has its full share 
of bird and animal life. In a number of 
streams fish are plentiful. 

The Lassen Volcanic National Park was 
created chiefly through the efforts of Con- 
gressmen John E. Raker and William Kent. 

The varied objects of interest in this 
Park, especially those associated with 
topography and geology, make it not only 
a place with curious features, but a region 
affording unusual opportunities for the 
gathering of fundamental facts concerning 
our resources. Here also are scenes to in- 
spire the souls of such as can be moved 
by the beauty and grandeur of Nature 
and by the awful manifestations of her 
power. 

Says J. S. Diller, of the United States 
Geological Survey, "With its comfort- 
ably active volcano, inviting cinder cones 
and lava fields, vigorously boiling hot 
springs, mud lakes and 'mush pots' for 
the vulcanologist to study, and the gla- 
ciated divides and canons for the physi- 
219 



iout Rational gatft^ 

ographer, in a setting of lovely scenery 
and attractive camps, for the tourists all 
easily accessible, the Lassen Peak region 
affords one of the most alluring and in- 
structive spots for a National Park." 



XI 

HAWAII NATIONAL PARK 

A VOLCANIC exhibit unrivaled in the 
world is embraced in the Hawaii Na- 
tional Park, which was created in 1916. 
This Park consists of two volcanic sections 
in the Hawaiian Islands, with a total area 
of one hundred and seventeen square miles. 
Within this territory are two active vol- 
canoes, Kilauea and Mauna Loa on the 
island of Hawaii ; and one sleeping volcano, 
Haleakala on the island of Maui. 

The celebrated and unequaled Ha- 
waiian volcanoes are a national scenic 
asset, unique of their kind and famous in 
the world of science. Apparently, the 
ocean has been filled in and the entire 
group of Hawaiian Islands built by the 
lava-outpourings of volcanoes. In this 
National Park we may see volcanic topog- 
raphy in the course of construction; some 
221 



iour l^ational ^ath^ 

landscapes just cast in the process of cool- 
ing ; others that are beginning to show the 
erosion of the elements; also those which 
vegetation is just possessing. 

The Hawaii National Park has about 
the same latitude as the City of Mexico. 
There are about a dozen islands in the 
group, with a total area of seventy-five 
hundred square miles. Honolulu, the capi- 
tal city, is on the island of Oahu, near the 
middle of the island chain, which extends 
from northwest to southeast. From San 
Francisco it is about twenty-one hundred 
miles to Honolulu. 

Kilauea is more than two hundred miles 
southeast of Honolulu, and thirty miles 
inland from the port of Hilo. Twenty 
miles to the west from Kilauea is Mauna 
Loa. The crater of Haleakala is on a dif- 
ferent island from Kilauea and Mauna 
Loa, about midway between these and 
Honolulu. 

The active rim of Kilauea is four thou- 
sand feet above the sea. The slopes of 

222 



this volcano have an exceedingly flat 
grade. It is the most continuously active of 
the three volcanoes in this Park. It has a 
pit in which the molten lava rises and falls 
and is boiling all the time. For a century 
Kilauea has been almost continuously ac- 
tive with a lake or lakes of molten lava. 
The crater of Kilauea is not a steep moun- 
tain-top, but a broad, forested plateau, be- 
neath which is a lava sink three miles in 
diameter, surrounded by cliffs three hun- 
dred feet high. Several times during the 
last century the active crater was up- 
heaved into a hill. In a little while it col- 
lapsed into a deep pit with marvelously 
spectacular avalanches, fiery grottos, and 
clouds of steam and brown dust. Through 
many years the crater was overflowing. 
Frequently large pieces of the shore fall 
into the molten lake, forming islands. 

The magnificent spectacle of the lake 

of lava at Kilauea is indescribable. Charles 

W. Eliot, President Emeritus of Harvard 

University, visited the crater and pro- 

223 



iour i^ational ^arfeief 

nounced it the most wonderful scene he 
had ever watched. It is a lake of liquid 
fire one thousand feet across, splashing 
on its banks with a noise like the waves 
of the sea. Great high fountains boil up 
through it, sending quantities of glow- 
ing spray over the shore. There are fiery, 
molten cascades, whirlpools, and rapids, 
with hissing of gases, rumbling, and blue 
flames playing through the crevices. It 
is ever changing, and the record of these 
changes is being kept from day to day, 
photographically and otherwise, by the 
Hawaiian Volcano Observatory. 

Mauna Loa is an active crater, 13,675 
feet above sea-level. It is an enormous 
mountain mass, covering a wide area with 
its very gentle slopes. This volcano erupts 
about once every decade. Of the three 
volcanoes in the Park, Mauna Loa is the 
most productive of new rock, which it 
pours out on the surface of the land. Its 
activities start with outbursts on the sum- 
mit and culminate after a number of years 
224 



in a flow which floods the whole country 
for many months. 

Perpetual snow crowns Mauna Loa, and 
ice may be found in cracks even in sum- 
mer. In the winter-time there is a variety 
of climate from sea-level to the summit — 
from the warmth of the tropics to arctic 
blizzards on the mountain-top. 

An interesting and somewhat amus- 
ing story is told in regard to an eruption 
of Mauna Loa in 1881. The flow of lava 
at that time was so heavy that it seriously 
threatened to wipe out the town of Hilo. 
When the lava ran down to within a mile 
of the place, the natives urged their Prin- 
cess Ruth to go and conjure the goddess 
of the volcano, Pele, to stop the flow. 
She went — so the tales goes — with all her 
retinue, and threw into the crater some 
berries, a black hen, a white pig, and a 
bottle of gin, as sacrifices. The lava-flow 
stopped, and the natives believed their 
escape due to the odd offering, although 
some people have expressed the opinion 
225 



Hour i^ational ^arhief 

that such a collection of stuff thrown 
into an active volcano's crater would 
make the eruption more violent, if it had 
any effect at all. 

Mauna Loa forces columns of liquid 
lava hundreds of feet into the air, and 
every few years pours forth billions of tons 
of lava in a few days. There is a wonderful 
rift-line, from which eight or ten flows 
poured forth during the last century. 
These burst out on the slopes of the moun- 
tain, not from the summit crater. After 
the first explosion at the summit, a period 
of quiet intervenes, and then the rifts 
open and lava flows down. 

The lava cools quickly and changes 
through colors of red, purple, brown, and 
gray as it cools. Areas of each of these are 
seen at one time, with red-hot liquids show- 
ing in the cracks of the lava. Trees of lava 
are formed at one place by the flow of lava 
rushing through a forest and congealing 
around the trunks. Fields of " Pele's hair" 
— lava — are blown out by the wind, like 
226 



iJaUjaii i^ational ^arft 

spun glass, as the fiery spray is dashed Into 
the air on the surface of the molten lake. 
In the large craters are numerous smaller 
ones with endless lava forms, colors, and 
volcanic structures. 

The crater of Haleakala, ten thousand 
feet high, is near the middle of the island 
of Maui. It is eight miles in diameter and 
three thousand feet deep. While Haleakala 
has not erupted for two hundred years, 
the entire crater is sometimes full of active 
fire fountains, and the fiery glow mounts 
to the clouds like an immense conflagra- 
tion. 

Professor Thomas A. Jaggar says, "The 
crater of Haleakala at sunrise is the grand- 
est volcanic spectacle on earth." 

No photograph can give any adequate 
idea of the view from its summit, often 
above the clouds. It is a good place from 
which to see the sun come up through the 
clouds in the crater. This event has been 
described as being like the birth of a new 
world. From here one can look down on the 
227 



iour i^ational ^arh^ 

island and on the sea, and see the neigh- 
boring island of Oahu. 

Sidney Ballou says: "A number of peo- 
ple who have been to the top of Haleakala 
pronounce the sensation there, although 
somewhat indefinable and indescribable, 
as the chief scenic attraction of the world. 
Men like John Muir, who have been all 
over the world, go up there and say that it 
is the greatest spectacle in the world." 

In addition to the variety of volcanic 
displays and lava landscapes, the Hawai- 
ian Park contains splendid tropical groves 
and forests of sandalwood and magnifi- 
cent Hawaiian mahogany trees with trunks 
over twenty feet in circumference. There 
are forests of tree ferns up to forty feet 
in height, with single leaves twenty feet 
long; tropical jungles with scores of varie- 
ties of the most exquisite and delicate ferns 
and mosses, many of them found nowhere 
else in the world. There are numerous 
song-birds of brilliant hues, many of them 
found nowhere but in Hawaii, and nearly 
228 



I^atoaii i^ational ^arh 

extinct except in this Park. There are roll- 
ing grassy meadows, dotted with tropical 
trees, shrubs, and ferns, giving a parklike 
effect. Many of the trees are botanical 
treasures, known only in this Park region, 
and of great rarity. 

The views from the slopes and summits 
of the volcanic peaks are a mingling of wild 
magnificence and tropical splendor. The 
eraters themselves are weird spectacles that 
awe visitors into silence as they watch the 
wonderful action of the liquid fire foun- 
tains, boiling lakes, flaming lava, and other 
demonstrations of the Fire King. 

L. A. Thurston, of Honolulu, appears 
to have first proposed this Park, and he 
did much toward its acquisition. 



XII 
THREE NATIONAL MONUMENTS 

I. THE OLYMPIC NATIONAL MONUMENT 

The territory embraced in the Olympic 
National Monument is now proposed for 
use as a National Park. It occupies the 
extreme northwest corner of the United 
States, a peninsula between the Pacific 
Ocean and Puget Sound. It is dominated 
by the precipitous and heavily snow- 
capped Olympic Mountains. These snowy 
summits attracted the attention of the ex- 
plorer Vancouver, who named the moun- 
tains the Olympics. Their lower slopes are 
heavily forested with gigantic trees, and 
beneath these there is an undergrowth of 
almost bewildering luxuriance. This under- 
growth is a jungle in itself. Many of the 
trees are heavily and picturesquely roped 
and bearded with moss. The openness 
which characterizes the Sierra or Rocky 
230 



Mountain forests is absent. Gigantic tree- 
trunks lie scattered over the forest floor. 
Many of these fell centuries ago and are 
water-soaked, half- rotten, and covered with 
moss a foot thick. Here and there a living 
tree, a century or more of age, is standing 
upon a fallen one. Others are lost in the 
tangle of vines, huge ferns, and vigorous 
wild flowers that crowd the floor of the 
woods. Even at midday the forest reposes 
in twilight. 

The region is extremely difficult to pene- 
trate and explore. The streams, even dur- 
ing the period of low water, are almost too 
swift for boats, and the tangled jungle- 
growth, produced by abundant moisture 
and a mild climate, compels the explorer to 
chop every foot of the way he advances. 
Until recent years trappers, who were sup- 
posed to go everywhere, were content to 
work around its outskirts. Even the ad- 
venturous prospector passed it by, and 
searched the earth over for gold before 
seeking in the heart of the Olympics. 
231 



gour li^ational garh^ 

Through the combined efforts of govern- 
ment agents, individuals, and organiza- 
tions, the region has at last been pretty well 
explored. Both in exploring this Olympic 
region and in endeavoring to have a part of 
its primeval scenes saved in a park, the 
Mountaineers Club of Seattle has taken an 
aggressive part. 

Up to the altitude of about four thousand 
feet the mountains are wrapped in dense 
green and heavy forest gloom. Then come 
the scattered grassy, flowery, snowy open- 
ings. Timber-line, kept low by the exces- 
sive snowfall, is at about fifty-five hundred 
feet altitude, one thousand feet lower than 
in the Alps, and six thousand feet below the 
forest frontier on the Rocky Mountains in 
Colorado. The summit slopes are a broken 
array of snow-fields, ice-piles, and glaciers. 
Above the timber-line, vast, deep snow- 
fields cover much of the area. These white 
summits show from far out at sea. 

Mount Olympus, with an altitude of 
8250 feet, is the highest peak. Among the 
232 



€{)ree i^ational la^onumentiBf 

other commanding peaks are Meany, Cou- 
gar, and Seattle. 

The climate, tempered by the warm sea, 
is mild. Probably no other region in the 
United States has a heavier rainfall and 
snowfall. From sixty to one hundred feet 
of snow is deposited over it each winter. 
The only comparatively rainless months 
are July and August. The rain, and the 
water from the ice- and snow-fields, sup- 
ply numerous steeply inclined streams, 
which descend in roaring waterfalls and in 
long, leaping wild cascades. 

This region excels in the number and 
crowded conditions of large tree growth, 
and the impenetrable luxuriance of under- 
growth. Hemlock, cedar, spruce, and fir 
predominate. While the hemlock is the 
most common tree here, the cedar is the 
most striking. The latter is a strangely 
stiff and mysterious tree of rather stocky 
growth. In this moist, mild clime it finds 
conditions for development almost ideal. 
The two kinds of cedar are the Alaska and 
233 



iour l^ational ^atk0 

the red. Thousands of acres here may be 
seen crowded with tall trees that will aver- 
age five feet or more in diameter and one 
hundred and fifty feet in height. Trees 
twelve feet in diameter are not uncom- 
mon, and the United States Geological 
Survey reports one with a diameter of 
twenty-eight feet! Thousands of acres of 
red fir trees may also be found in which the 
average height of the trees is two hundred 
and forty feet ! 

Wild flowers are everywhere. They edge 
the snow- fields, cover the breaks in the 
cliffs, line the streams, and bank with bloom 
the fallen forest patriarchs. Among the 
common blossoms are the lovely cassiope, 
— white heather, — mountain anemone, 
phlox, and "Indian basket grass." 

This is the home of the gigantic Olympic 
Roosevelt elk, and among the other com- 
mon animals are the bear, deer, wolf, fox, 
lynx, otter, and beaver. The streams are 
simply crowded with trout. Bald eagles 
are found, and there is an array of flickers, 
234 




iM(JUNT ST. HELENS 
From tlie Timber-Line Trail on Mount Rainier 



woodpeckers, warblers, jays, sparrows, and 
hummingbirds. The solitudes of this syl- 
van park are cheered with the melody of 
the water-ouzel, the Alaska hermit thrush, 
and the winter wren. 

But the mountain summits are signifi- 
cant as view-points. From them one com- 
mands the sea, islands, and the broken 
shore of the Pacific. Bright Puget Sound, 
with a scattering of dark islands and rag- 
ged edges, fills the foreground. Looking 
toward the southeast across the darkly 
forested mountains through which rolls the 
Columbia, one enjoys a view vast and im- 
posing. The dark forest cover is pierced by 
three snow-laden and steaming sleeping 
volcanoes. The most impressive one of 
these is Mount Rainier, with a score of 
enormous glaciers covering head and shoul- 
ders. Another one is Mount Adams. But 
the most exquisitely beautiful of all the 
peaks which the summits of the Olympics 
command is Mount St. Helens. The head 
and shoulders of this mountain rise a per- 
235 



iour l^ational ^arh^ 

feet snowy eone above the purple forest 
robe and stand as perfectly poised as a 
Greek statue of marble. 

The Olympic National Park should in- 
clude about three hundred square miles. 
What a splendid attraction if this area of 
primeval scenes and forests were kept in a 
state of nature! 

2. THE NATURAL BRIDGES AND 
RAINBOW BRIDGE NATIONAL MONUMENTS 

Utah has the four grandest natural 
bridges in the world. Three of these are in 
the Natural Bridges National Monument, 
and the fourth in the Rainbow Bridge 
National Monument. There are natural 
bridges elsewhere in Utah, and in the Yel- 
lowstone and the Mesa Verde National 
Parks; also in Virginia and various other 
places. But so far as known, the four in 
these two National Monuments excel all 
others in size, in impressiveness, and in 
wildness of setting. 

These National Monuments embrace 
236 



€f)ree i^ational !ai9onument3ef 

desert regions in southeastern Utah which 
are made up mostly of rock-formations. 
Standing out on the strange desert, the fan- 
tastic forms and weird sandstone figures 
exhibited give the whole region a peculiar 
impressiveness. There are countless stat- 
uesque forms and groups that are sur- 
prisingly faithful in their resemblance to 
figures of birds, animals, humans, and 
temples; and all are of heroic size. 

The bridges in the Natural Bridges 
Monument are known as the Sipapu or 
Augusta Bridge, the Kachima or Caroline 
Bridge, and the Owachomo or Little Bridge. 
The former of each of these names is of 
Indian origin and is the official one. 

These three bridges are all within a 
small area. The Sipapu is 260 feet long on 
the bottom; the span is 157 feet high and 
22 feet above the creek-bed. Its road-bed 
width is 28 feet. The Kachima Bridge has 
a span of 156 feet, a total height of 205 feet, 
and a width across the top of 49 feet. The 
Owachomo Bridge has a light, graceful 
237 



four l^ational ^&tk^ 

structure. Its span is 194 feet and its sur- 
face 108 feet above the bottom. The arch- 
ing part has a thickness of only 10 feet. 

The Rainbow Bridge, whose official 
name is Nonnezoshie, is more of a magnifi- 
cent rainbow arch than a bridge. It has 
splendid and striking proportions. Its 
great graceful arch is 308 feet high and 274 
feet long. 

These bridges are of sandstone of red- 
dish cast, stained in many places with black- 
ish or greenish lichens and rust. Like any 
other rock-forms, they are the product of 
various erosive forces — illustrating the 
survival of the fittest. Their material, 
being slightly more durable than that of 
the now vanished rocks, or possibly less 
severely tested, has endured while the 
other material has been dissolved and worn 
away. In the fashioning of the surface of 
the earth Nature sometimes makes beau- 
tiful and imposing statuary. She has done 
so here. In the surrounding country are 
turrets, cisterns, wells, conelike and dome- 
238 




RAINBOW NATURAL BRIDGE 
RAINBOW NATIONAL MONUMENT 



€{)ree li^ational a^onumentier 

like caves and caverns, and nearly complete 
arches. In fact, arches and bridges show- 
ing every degree of completion and past 
prime condition may be seen. Near by are 
numerous deserted cliff dwellings. These 
unusual structures leave a lasting impres- 
sion on every visitor. Plans are already 
under way to make these wonders easily 
accessible to the public. 

3. MUKUNTUWEAP NATIONAL MONUMENT 

The Mukuntuweap National Monu- 
ment, Utah, has as spectacular a canon, 
and as stupendous an array of vast rock- 
forms, as is to be found anywhere in the 
world. This territory is often spoken of as 
"The Little Zion River Region." The 
Mukuntuweap Canon has some of the 
forms shown in the Grand Cafion, and an 
array of colors not equaled in any other 
canon known. In width it varies from half 
a mile to only a few rods across. It does not 
all tend in a straight direction. It curves. 
The canon walls in places are sheer and 
239 



iour l^ational ^arft^ 

rise from two thousand to three thousand 
feet. One of its most starthng features is 
shown in the overhanging walls, which the 
water has undercut so that in places the 
walls prevent a person in the bottom from 
seeing the sky. 

In a recent report on this cafion, T. E. 
Hunt, of the Department of the Interior, 
wrote : — 

At the south end, the caiion is about twelve 
hundred feet wide, but gradually narrows for a 
distance of seven miles, until a point is reached 
where with outstretching arms the finger tips 
touch the walls on either side. In a number of 
places the walls of this canon rise vertically to 
a height of more than two thousand feet, thus 
exhibiting a plain surface of extremely hard, 
pink sandstone. 

The vast barren areas of the walls are 
broken by figures in relief, and statuary on 
the summits — all the carving of Nature. 
On the terraces and in the niches are 
growths of ash and oak, maple and spruce 
and other trees. In a number of places 
these walls are further enlivened and glori- 
240 



€l)ree i^ational i^onumentis( 

fied by waterfalls that plunge grandly over 
them into the canon. We thus have in this 
region an unexcelled variety of the best- 
known canon effects — the vast sweep of 
vertical walls, the walls that are undercut 
so that they appear to lean, and extreme 
narrowness between the walls. 

But, enlivening and glorifying all these, 
is the color! Here you will find immense 
spaces of chocolate, red, crimson, magenta, 
and maroon, with touches of silver and 
gold. It is doubtful if Nature has any- 
where covered such immense areas with 
such deep and contrasting colors as in this 
canon. 

This region is little known, but prob- 
ably in a short time it will be easily acces- 
sible. It was made a National Monument 
in 1912. The people of Utah now want it 
for their National Park. 



XIII 
OTHER NATIONAL PARKS 

I. WIND CAVE NATIONAL PARK 

The Wind Cave National Park consists 
of about sixteen square miles of pine-cov- 
ered hills in the southwestern comer of 
South Dakota. It is about twelve miles 
north of the town of Hot Springs and about 
the same distance southeast of Custer. The 
altitude is between four thousand and five 
thousand feet. It was created in 1903. The 
scenery is typical of the picturesque Black 
Hills region, which the Indians especially 
loved. 

The Park's special attraction is a large 
natural cavern. This has recesses said to 
have been traced for ninety-six miles, but 
never thoroughly explored. Its name is 
due to the strong air-currents noticeable 
at the entrance, which sometimes blow one 
way and sometimes another. Bridges, 
242 



stairways, landings, and paths through the 
cave's mysterious passageways permit visi- 
tors to reach its natural splendors, which 
are seen by the light of burning candles or 
magnesium ribbon. 

The cave was discovered in 1881. Its 
temperature varies only between forty and 
forty-seven degrees the year round. Some 
of its known passages are almost five hun- 
dred feet below the surface of the earth, and 
wind over, under, and around one another. 
The formations are mostly of limestone. 
Among the features of this interesting un- 
derground world are a spring and a minia- 
ture lake, beautiful calcite crystals, ex- 
posed geodes, boxwork forms, and other 
attractive natural formations. 

The Park is the permanent home of a 
herd of buffaloes, presented to the Gov- 
ernment by the American Bison Society. 
Herds of elk and antelope are also found 
in an inclosed section. Many white-tailed 
deer running wild in the region annually 
seek shelter within the Park from the at- 
243 



iour l^ational ^arfej^ 

tacks of hunters. Grouse and quail are 
increasing in numbers under National- 
Park protection. 

2. bully's hill national park 

Sully's Hill National Park was estab- 
lished in 1904. Its area is only seven hun- 
dred and eighty acres. It is on the south 
shore of Devil's Lake, in northeastern 
North Dakota, near Fort Totten. 

Lack of an appropriation for the care 
and protection of the Park makes it neces- 
sary (191 7) for the Superintendent of the 
Government Industrial School for Indians, 
which is about one mile east of Fort Tot- 
ten, to act as Superintendent of the Park. 
It is badly in need of conveniences — 
as roads, trails, clearings, etc. Although 
money has been appropriated for the es- 
tablishment and maintenance of a game 
preserve on the tract, not a cent has ever 
been set aside for development and im- 
provement. 

It is well wooded and has many rugged 
244 



hills, including Sully's Hill. Another of its 
natural beauties is Sweet Water Lake. 
The Park is popular as a picnic-ground 
and Devil's Lake affords a good bathing- 
beach and fine opportunities for yachting. 
It is one of the beauty-spots of North 
Dakota, and its scenery is of the restful 
and delightful character. 

3. CASA GRANDE RUIN RESERVATION 

The most important prehistoric Indian 
ruin of its type in the Southwest is now 
protected and preserved, for the study and 
enjoyment of the people, in the Casa 
Grande Ruin Reservation. This contains 
four hundred and eighty acres, set aside 
in 1892. It is near Florence, Arizona, 
about eighteen miles northeast of Casa 
Grande railroad station. The ruins are of 
undetermined antiquity. A Jesuit mis- 
sionary discovered them in 1694. As ex- 
cavated so far, a great house built of pud- 
dled mud moulded into walls and dried in 
the sun is the main structure of the group. 
24s 



iour i^ational ^arfe^ 

As it is of perishable character, the walls 
have been gradually disintegrating, and a 
corrugated iron roof has been put over 
the ruins to protect them from the ele- 
ments so far as possible. Considerable 
more repair and protection work is needed. 
The main building was originally five 
or six stories in height and covered a space 
fifty-nine by forty-three feet. Surround- 
ing Casa Grande proper is a rectangular 
walled inclosure. A number of buildings 
or clusters of rooms have been excavated 
in this, and others as yet unexcavated are 
known to be there. One hundred rooms with 
plazas and surrounding walls now open on 
the ground floor of the reservation. These 
ruins are of great historic and scientific in- 
terest, and have strong claims for archaeo- 
logical study, repair, and preservation. 

4. HOT SPRINGS RESERVATION 

Although the Yellowstone was our first 
scenic National Park, the honor of being 
the oldest national recreation place falls 
246 



<&tf^tt l^ational garfejef 

to the Hot Springs Reservation, in the 
mountains of central Arkansas. It was 
created in 1832. Forty-six springs of hot 
water possessing radioactive properties, 
and also some cold-water springs of cura- 
tive value, are embraced within the tract 
of nine hundred and twelve acres, fifty 
miles west by south from the city of Little 
Rock. The waters flow from the sides of 
Hot Springs Mountain. Rheumatism and 
other bodily ills are relieved or remedied 
by the waters. Eleven bathhouses on the 
reservation, and a dozen more within the 
little city of Hot Springs, are under gov- 
ernment regulation. 

As early as 1 804 the power of the waters 
was known to white men, and a settlement 
had already begun there at that time. 
Tradition says that the Indians knew of 
the springs long before the Spanish inva- 
sion, and that they warred among them- 
selves for their possession. "Finally a truce 
was made, and thereafter all the tribes 
availed themselves of the healing waters. 
247 



gour i^ational ^ath^ 

5. PLATT NATIONAL PARK 

The Piatt National Park contains many 
sulphur and other springs possessing med- 
icinal value. It includes one and a third 
square miles in southern Oklahoma, and 
was created in 1906. 

6, MOUNT MCKINLEY NATIONAL PARK 

The Mount McKinley National Park, 
Alaska, was established early in 191 7. It is 
in the approximate center of Alaska and em- 
braces twenty-two hundred square miles. 
Mount McKinley is known to many Indians 
as "The Great One." Its summit is 20,300 
feet above sea-level. On the north this stu- 
pendous mountain is exceedingly precipi- 
tous and rises 18,000 feet in a distance of 
thirteen miles. It is doubtful if there is a 
peak in the world that rises so high above 
the limits of tree growth. And no mountain 
that I know of has slopes so completely 
snow-covered. Its snow-line is at the alti- 
tude of 7000 feet, and from this altitude 
248 



<&tt^tt l^attonal ^arlijEt 

upward only a few crags and rocky ridges 
show. The upper 14,000 feet of steep slopes 
appears a vast towering white mass of gla- 
ciers and snow. The largest glacier is the 
Muldrow. It is thirty-nine miles long. The 
summit of this peak and a part of its slopes 
are embraced in the Mount McKinley Na- 
tional Park. 

This Park is a wild-life refuge. Its slopes 
are the greatest known big-game range on 
the continent. Here are mountain sheep and 
caribou by the thousand. Moose are com- 
mon. Beaver are plentiful. And there are 
grizzly, brown, and black bear. Many kinds 
of birds use the region for their summer 
nesting-land. Brilliant wild flowers abound. 
Spruce, birch, cottonwood, and willow are 
the more common trees, but none of them 
grow large. 

In 1902, D. L. Raeburn, of the Geolog- 
ical Survey, explored this territory and 
brought out much valuable information 
concerning it. Mr. Raeburn determined 
most of the boundary-line of the present 
249 



iour l^ational ^arft^ 

Park. In 1903, James Wickersham at- 
tempted to scale the peak. It was first con- 
quered in March, 1913. The creation of this 
Park was brought about chiefly through the 
efforts of Charles Sheldon. When com- 
pleted, the Alaskan railroad will be within 
fifteen miles of the Park boundary-line. 



XIV 
CANADIAN NATIONAL PARKS 

The Dominion, or National, Parks of 
Canada possess a wealth of snow-capped 
peaks and majestic mountains, magnifi- 
cent glaciers, luxuriant forests, and peace- 
ful, sunny valleys. These Parks are gemmed 
with crystalline lakes and glorified by 
hundreds of gardens of rare and brilliant 
wild flowers; they rival and surpass the 
celebrated scenes of Europe. Travelers 
who are visiting the scenic world will find 
in the Canadian parks a number of places 
of the most inspiring character and of 
original composition. Mental pictures of 
the earth's great scenes are incomplete 
without the masterpieces of Canada. 

The Canadian people are to be congratu- 
lated on their splendid scenic inheritance. 
I thank them for the statesmanlike appre- 
ciation of this noble resource. They real- 
251 



iour i^ational ^ath^ 

ize that scenery is a rich asset, and — what 
is more important — that every one needs 
outdoor life and great views. The Cana- 
dians already have comprehensive plans 
for fuller use of scenery. These include not 
only the saving of other scenic places and 
getting these ready for visitors, but also 
plans that will assist large numbers of their 
own people to visit the Parks. 

I. JASPER PARK 

Jasper Park, the continent's largest 
national playground, was created in 1907. 
It contains forty-four hundred square miles 
and comprises all the ranges east of the 
Divide in northern Alberta. It is reached 
by two transcontinental railroads. 

This part of the Great North country 
suggests adventure, romance, and history, 
and brings back to mind the power, the 
strangeness, and the picturesqueness of the 
earlier days of the Hudson's Bay Com- 
pany. The storied Athabasca flows through 
it, a band of silver in a flower-strewn valley 
252 




ILLECILLEWAET VALLEY 
Mount Sir Donald in distance. Glacier Park, Canada 



€anatiian l^ational ^atk^ 

of meadow and park land, hemmed in by 
glistening mountains. An important fur 
district a century ago, its trading-posts 
now are tourist resorts with railroads and 
hotels. 

Yellowhead Pass, of historic associa- 
tions, is the western entrance. Two grim 
peaks guard the eastern portal. Roche 
Miette, which dominates the surrounding 
country, was formerly a favorite Indian 
hunting-ground for mountain sheep. Per- 
drix or Folding Mountain has strange folds 
and angles in its strata. 

Many roads and trails reach the beauty 
spots of this park. Fiddle Creek Canon 
is in places only twenty feet wide, but the 
roaring, rushing waters are two hundred 
feet below. On the same road are the cele- 
brated Miette Springs and Punch-Bowl 
Falls, a geological curiosity. Maligne Lake 
is a scenic jewel, and its river canon displays 
wonderful erosion. The Park abounds in 
minerals. Administration headquarters are 
at Jasper. 

253 



Hour l^ational ^avhn 

2. ROCKY MOUNTAINS PARK 

Indian stories of remarkable and cura- 
tive hot springs probably led to the crea- 
tion of the Rocky Mountains Park, the 
oldest and best-developed of the Domin- 
ion's national playgrounds. With states- 
manlike foresight, the Government deter- 
mined to retain the springs region in a 
National Park as a permanent health and 
pleasure ground for all the people. In 
1889, two hundred and sixty square miles 
were thus set aside, and the Park has since 
been enlarged to eighteen hundred square 
miles. It lies on the east slope of the 
Rockies in Alberta, adjoining Yoho Park. 

The springs rise in Sulphur Mountain, 
near Banff, the geographic and chief tour- 
ist center. On this mountain-side the 
Government conducts public baths. The 
region is a winter as well as a summer 
resort. 

The Banff district also possesses not- 
able scenery. It has an invigorating at- 
254 



Canatiian l^ational ^atk^ 

mosphere and the peaceful serenity of a 
lovely mountain valley, with bare, rocky 
summits and dark, forest slopes. This was 
a celebrated Indian hunting-ground, and 
the legends and traditions of the abo- 
rigines will ever touch it with the spell of 
adventure and romance. Here is beautiful 
Lake Minnewanka. Beyond lies the strange 
valley of the Ghost River. It is a lime- 
stone canon, into which a number of 
streams fall, but from which none are 
known to flow. An undiscovered subter- 
ranean outlet is supposed to account for 
this phenomenon. 

Banff has an excellent Government 
museum, containing complete collections 
of the mountain flora and fauna, also a zoo, 
buffalo-corral, and moose-pasture. The 
town-site is owned and controlled by the 
Government, which makes regulations, 
leases ground, and issues permits for com- 
petitive business. 

Laggan, another railway station in the 
Park, is the center for the celebrated Lake 
255 



^our i^ational ^arftje? 

Louise district. Near are snow-capped peaks 
standing thickly together, with countless 
tumbling streams and leaping waterfalls. 

High among the mountains are exquis- 
ite blue or emerald lakes, set like spark- 
ling gems in the bold surroundings of 
peaks and glaciers. Chief of these is the 
famous Lake Louise. 

Brilliant wild flowers in luxuriant pro- 
fusion and of many varieties are one of 
the Park's chief charms. Delicate twin- 
flowers, adder's-tongue, false heather, and 
dainty blossoms of every hue are included 
in these wild alpine meadow displays. 

A transmountain automobile road from 
Calgary runs through the Rocky Mountains 
Park and into the Yoho Park. Its route 
includes points of great scenic interest. 
This road will be extended to the Pacific. 

3. YOHO PARK 

Scenic allurements are numerous in 
Yoho Park, which embraces five hundred 
and sixty square miles of the west slope of 
256 



Canabian l^ational ^atk^ 

the picturesque Rocky Mountains, in east- 
ern British Columbia. Fantastic shapes 
and sharp points characterize it. The 
vegetation is rich and verdant. Many 
wonderful views and interesting districts 
in it are easily reached. 

Yoho Valley in this Park was not dis- 
covered until 1897, but its unusual beauty 
at once attracted numerous visitors. Takak- 
kaw Fall is the thunderous spray-shrouded 
leap of eleven hundred feet of a glacier tor- 
rent. The Indian name means " It is Won- 
derful." This valley also possesses other 
beautiful falls, a remarkable ice region, 
and other interesting alpine features. 

Emerald Lake, admired by artists and 
nature-lovers, is said to have twenty shades 
of green, but never one of blue, in its crys- 
talline mirror depths. It is reached by a 
straight road through dark fragrant firs 
that meet overhead. A dazzling white 
mountain at the end of the vista gave rise 
to the name Snowpeak Avenue. 

The Natural Bridge is not far from 
257 



iour l^ational ^arM 

Field, the main-line railway town that 
serves as a center for this national play- 
ground. The Kickinghorse River forces its 
way through a narrow gap in a solid wall 
of rock. Rocks remaining above this boil- 
ing, seething mass of water and cloud spray 
make a natural passageway across and 
give the formation its name. 

Millions of trilobites have been found 
in the extensive fossil-bed of Mount Ste- 
phen. This probably was once the bed 
of an ocean. This massive, round-topped 
mountain, 10,523 feet high and with curi- 
ously marked sides, is probably the most 
frequently climbed peak in Canada. It 
seems to rise directly over the town, is not 
difficult to ascend, and affords wonderful 
views of the "frozen sea" of snow peaks 
to the north and west. 

4. .WATERTON LAKES PARK 

Waterton Lakes Park, in southern Al- 
berta, is notable chiefly for its glacier lakes. 
Although one of the smallest, it is one of 
258 



Canadian i^attonal ^ath^ 

the most beautiful of the Canadian scenic 
reservations. Since sixteen square miles 
were set aside in 1895, it has been enlarged 
to four hundred and twenty-three square 
miles. 

For about twenty miles this Dominion 
playground adjoins the Glacier National 
Park of the United States. The two will 
be linked by a motor road, so that visi- 
tors to one may also enjoy the other. An 
enlargement of theWaterton River forms 
the main chain of lakes. The upper one, 
nine and a half miles long, extends three 
miles into the United States. 

Prehistoric glaciers gouged out the main 
valleys, leaving them carved in massive 
proportions. Beautiful streams rush down 
canons, plunge in shining cascades, or re- 
main dammed] up as superb lakes. The 
lower valleys are clothed with forests. 
Columnar peaks, fantastic rock formations, 
and unscalable precipices complete the 
imposing effects. 

Fishing is a leading attraction. The 
259 



iout l^ational ^arfe^ 

Park contains many Rocky Mountain 
goats and bighorn sheep. Grizzly and 
black bears and mountain lions also are 
frequently found. 

5. REVELSTOKE PARK 

Revelstoke Park is a natural park on 
Mount Revelstoke's summit, near the city 
of Revelstoke in British Columbia. This 
mountain's rolling .uplands are studded 
with beautiful groves, dainty flowers, and 
exquisite lakes. The wonderful views in- 
clude unnamed and unclimbed peaks, wild 
forests, streams and falls, and a great ice- 
field. A motor road to reach this summit 
panorama is being completed. The Park 
has an area of ninety-five square miles. 
It is well adapted to ski-jumping and kin- 
dred sports. 

6. THE ANIMAL PARKS 

To protect its large wild animals and 
prevent their threatened extinction, the 
Canadian Government has gone to enor- 
260 



Canatitan i^attonal ^ath^ 

mous expense and trouble. Two animal 
parks have been established: Elk Island 
Park of sixteen square miles, near Lamont, 
Alberta; and Buffalo Park of one hundred 
and sixty square miles, near Wainwright, 
Alberta. The former contains many elk 
and deer, as well as moose, buffaloes, birds, 
wild-fowl, and water-folk. Buffalo Park 
makes a natural home for over two thou- 
sand wild bisons, the largest pure-blooded 
herd in the world. The original seven hun- 
dred of these were bought from a Mon- 
tana Indian. Both parks produce their 
own forage, and are well fenced and fire- 
guarded. They have many scenic lakes, 
woods, hills, and valleys. Visitors are ad- 
mitted to study the wild life under natural 
conditions. 

7. ST. LAWRENCE ISLANDS PARK 

As a National Park for summer use by 
fishermen, campers, picnickers, and excur- 
sionists, the Dominion Government has a 
dozen islands among the Thousand Islands 
261 



four l^ational ^arft^ 

of the St. Lawrence River. Eleven of these 
were purchased from Indians and the 
twelfth was donated for park purposes. 
(Other islands in the vicinity are part of 
the New York State park system.) 

8. FORT HOWE PARK 

Fort Howe National Park is the first 
of a new kind of Canadian parks that will 
preserve historic places. An old British 
fort site at St. John, New Brunswick, com- 
prises the first of these historic parks. It 
covers nineteen acres. Here a resort will 
be established, and memorials of impor- 
tant events connected with the spot will 
be erected. 

Responsibility for the creation and the 
administration of Canadian National Parks 
rests upon the Minister of the Interior. 
Under his direction is a Commissioner of 
Dominion Parks, with a staff. This is 
absolutely separate from the Canadian 
Forest Service. This bureau is charged 
262 



Canal»ian i^ational ^atk^ 

with responsibility for the administration 
of all park matters, under one head. The 
head office plans the work and the several 
superintendents carry it out under the in- 
spection of the chief superintendent. Park 
appropriations are voted each year by 
Parliament in one lump sum, on esti- 
mates prepared by the Parks Bureau. 
Each superintendent is furnished every 
month with an amount sufficient to cover 
the cost of the work planned for the 
month ensuing. This system means uni- 
formity of administration; expenditure 
based on a proper perspective of the needs 
of the several Parks; a comprehensive 
scheme of development; and flexibility to 
meet changed conditions. 

Further information concerning these 
Parks may be had from the Commissioner 
of Dominion Parks, Ottawa, Canada. 



XV 
PARK-DEVELOPMENT AND NEW PARKS 

A PLATFORM for park-promoters : — 

1. Immediate appropriations for every Na- 
tional Park. 

2. Early enlargement of a few of the Parks. 

3. Prompt creation of a number of new 
Parks. 

4. The National Park Service needs the 
help of your eternal vigilance and sym- 
pathy. Keep the National Park Service 
absolutely separate from the Forest 
Service or any other organization. 

5. Concessions are a bad feature in any 
Park. The Palisades Inter-State Park is 
run without concessions. Why should 
private concerns reap profits by exploit- 
ing the visitors to National Parks? 

6. A Board of National Park Commission- 
ers is needed. These commissioners 
should act as a Board of Directors, as do 
the Inter-State Park Commissioners, and 
have absolute control over the National 
Parks. 

No nation has ever fallen through hav- 
ing too many parks. We may have too 
264 



many soldiers, too many indoor functions, 
too many exclusive social sets, but the 
United States Government, or any other, 
will never fall for having too many national 
parks. 

Nearly all the large nations of the earth 
now have national parks or are planning 
to create them. Canada, Australia, and 
New Zealand are especially thoughtful in 
park matters. Switzerland has a number, 
and is planning new ones. A number of 
South American countries are making in- 
vestigations with the view of establishing 
national parks. 

National parks are an institution inti- 
mately allied with the general welfare. 
You need this institution, and it needs 
your help. Every one ought to be glad 
to help better and beautify our land. 
Whittier was once asked by a young man 
for advice as to how best to succeed. The 
poet told him to attach himself to a noble 
and neglected cause and to stay with it 
till he won. The Park field greatly needs 
265 



iour l^ational ^arfejei 

the help of young men and young women 
who are willing to serve a noble cause. In 
connection with National Parks you can 
be exceedingly helpful in furthering the 
following work : — 

A number of new Parks should be at 
once created. A number of the old Parks 
need to be enlarged. Appropriations are 
greatly needed for the development of all. 
You can help the National Park Service. 
It is in danger of being crippled by the lack 
of appropriations. A number of the Na- 
tional Monuments should at once be made 
National Parks. Among these are the 
Grand Canon, the Olympic, the Mukun- 
tuweap Canon, and others. The Sequoia 
and other National Parks need enlarge- 
ment; and the Mount St. Elias and other 
scenic regions, especially the Mount Mc- 
Kinley region, are most worthy of early 
consideration for park purposes. 

The Yellowstone Park needs to have 
the Grand Teton region added; Rainier, 
about twenty square miles at the south- 
266 



west comer; Crater Lake, a few square 
miles on the west and north; Yosemite, 
mountainous country on the east and 
southeast; Rocky Mountain, small areas 
— east, west, north, and south; and the 
Sequoia, Mount Whitney and the King's- 
Kern region. 

One of the most deserving of National 
Park projects, as well as one of the most 
unique, is that which centers about the 
Jamez Plateau, in New Mexico. Upon this 
plateau in prehistoric times stood a me- 
tropolis of Indian civilization, and the 
magnificent ruins which remain make this 
place priceless, and throw over it one of 
the most fascinating mysteries in the realm 
of archaeology. A number of the buildings 
were stone structures of excellent and ar- 
tistic architecture, and contained hun- 
dreds of rooms. The pottery and other 
records left by this vanished people indi- 
cate that they were a people of culture and 
refinement. 

While the opposition is delaying the 
267 



gour l^ational ^arfe^ 

making of this Park, the despoilment of 
the region goes on. In this connection Dr. 
Jesse W. Fewkes makes this significant 
statement : — 

Too strong language cannot be used in dep- 
recation of the butchering of the architectural 
features of our Southwestern ruins by pot- 
hunters, either private individuals for gain or 
representatives of institutions under the name 
of scientific research. 

The Cook Forest in western Pennsyl- 
vania, the greatest existing primeval growth 
of white pine; a splendid redwood forest 
near Eureka, California; the Dunes on 
the shore of Lake Michigan in northern 
Indiana; the Mammoth Cave of Ken- 
tucky; the Luray Caverns in Virginia; and 
a stretch of the seashore in eastern North 
Carolina, — all ought to be public prop- 
erty, though now privately owned. These 
places might be saved for the people for 
all time in State Parks, but their unique 
and splendid characteristics justify their 
becoming National Parks. 
268 



Nearly all proposed National Park areas 
are of territory in the public domain — ■ 
still owned by the Government. The pri- 
vately owned areas that are proposed for 
National Parks are places admirably fitted 
for park purposes, and are located close 
to millions of people. 

It is important that the remaining scenic 
areas In the country be at once made Into 
State or National Parks. Fortunately 
there still are a number of these wild places, 
but it will require effort to save them. 
Each Park proposed will have powerful 
and insidious opposition. The insidious 
opposition to National Parks will say, 
"There is a feeling in Congress that we 
should not have any more National Parks 
at this time"; or, "We should wait until 
present ones are Improved." 

Scenery Is perishable — is easily ruined. 
The better parts of scenery are birds, 
flowers, and trees. These are easily de- 
spoiled. No work, no public service, is 
more noble than that of the Park exten- 
269 



four l^ational f arhiS 

sion and improvement which now presses 
us. Every National Park needs appro- 
priations. It is the duty of every one to 
ask and urge Congress at once to make 
adequate appropriations. 

Much is to be gained and nothing to 
be lost in acting promptly. It is impor- 
tant that new Parks be created now, a 
working plan made for all, and the devel- 
opment pushed. When all our National 
Parks are ready for travelers, we shall not 
need to shout, "See America First." 

The phrase "See America First" may 
have done a little good, but it is now obso- 
lete. A plain condition now confronts us. 
Scenic America is to be made ready to be 
seen. Only a small percentage of the area 
of our National Parks is really ready for 
the traveler. 

Congress should not be blamed for this 
condition; neither should we severely blame 
ourselves. But we ought promptly to see 
that these Parks receive adequate appro- 
priations. If we do this, in a short time 
270 



^arR^2Debclopment anti ^t\xy$ath^ 

the National Park Service, through its 
Director, will say, "Your National Parks 
— our matchless wonderlands — are now 
entirely ready for millions of travelers." 

The plan for the development of Na- 
tional Parks includes three types of hotels, 
the luxurious, the popular-priced, and inns 
or shelter cabins that are clean and com- 
fortable, and that give simple entertain- 
ment at the lowest possible cost. And all 
buildings should be of an architecture that 
harmonizes with the landscape. 

Guides in Parks should be of the high- 
est type of culture and refinement, nat- 
uralists who can impart information. Of 
course they must be masters of woodcraft. 
The wilderness is destined to have a large 
and helpful place in the lives of the people. 
This is to be partly brought about by 
guides and Park rangers. There should be 
guides of both sexes. 

The ultimate development should em- 
brace a scenic road-system, roads built so 
as to command scenery and to be for the 
271 



gout l^ational ^axk^ 

most part on mountain-sides and summits. 
They should touch the greatest and most 
beautiful spots, and should follow, not 
the lines of least resistance, but those of 
greatest attraction. In places along the 
forested roads, openings might be cleared 
so as to expose near scenes and to enable 
travelers to see the game which may come 
to these openings. 

Many roads should be paralleled by 
trails for people afoot or on horseback. 
Of course trails should be made to numer- 
ous high or wild places not reached by 

roads. 

Many persons do not realize the dif- 
ference between a forest reserve and a 
National Park. A forest reserve is pri- 
marily used for cattle-grazing and saw- 
mills, while a National Park is a region 
wholly educational and recreational for 
your children and yourselves. A forest re- 
serve is a commercial proposition, while a 
National Park must be estimated by higher 
values. In a paper on the conservation of 
272 



scenery, in "The Rocky Mountain Won- 
derland," I have said: — 

We need the forest reserve, and we need the 
National Park. Each of these serves in a dis- 
tinct way, and it is of utmost importance that 
each be in charge of its specialist. The forester 
is always the lumberman, the park man is 
a practical poet. . . . The forester must cut 
trees before they are over-ripe or his crop will 
waste, while the park man wants the groves to 
become aged and picturesque. The forester 
pastures cattle in his meadows, while the park 
man has only people and romping children 
among his wild flowers. The park needs the 
charm of primeval nature, and should be free 
from ugliness, artificiality, and commercialism. 
For the perpetuation of scenery, a landscape 
artist is absolutely necessary. It would be 
folly to put a park man in charge of a forest 
reserve, a lumbering proposition. On the 
other hand, what a blunder to put a tree- 
cutting forester in charge of a park ! We need 
both these men; each is important in his 
place ; but it would be a double misfortune to 
put one in charge of the work of the other. 

In this connection Stewart Edward 

White recently wrote: — 

If the public in general understood the dif- 
ference between a National Park and a Na- 

273 



iour l^ational ^arft^e? 

tional Forest, there could be no doubt as to 
the opinion of any intelligent citizen. The 
distinction is so simple that it seems that it 
should be easy to get it within the comprehen- 
sion of anybody. A National Park is an open- 
air museum set apart by Congress either to 
preserve from commercial development beau- 
tiful scenery, trees, natural monuments, or 
some of the forests that are being cut com- 
mercially both in private and national forests. 
The idea is not commercial development along 
even conservative and constructive lines, but 
absolute preservation in a state of nature. 
Once this distinction is grasped, no one can 
doubt that these two institutions demand en- 
tirely different management. It would be as 
sensible to put men with the same training in 
charge of both National Park and National 
Forest, as it would be to place the same men 
with the same training in charge of a busy 
shoe factory and a museum of archaeology. 

Says Frederick Law Olmsted: — 

Why should there be a distinction between 
National Forests and National Parks? If the 
public is at liberty to use both as recreation 
grounds, why should they not all be under one 
management, in the interest of a more econom- 
ical administration? 

The National Forests are set apart for eco- 
274 



nomic ends, and their use for recreation is a 
by-product properly to be secured only in so 
far as it does not interfere with the economic 
efficiency of the forest management. The 
National Parks are set apart primarily in 
order to preserve to the people for all time the 
opportunity of a peculiar kind of enjoyment 
and recreation, not measurable in economic 
terms and to be obtained only from the 
remarkable scenery which they contain — 
scenery of these primeval types which are in 
most parts of the world rapidly vanishing for 
all eternity before the increased thoroughness 
of the economic use of land. In the National 
Parks direct economic returns, if any, are 
properly the by-products; and even rapidity 
and efficiency in making them accessible to 
the people, although of great importance, are 
wholly secondary to the one dominant pur- 
pose of preserving essential esthetic qualities 
of their scenery unimpaired as a heritage 
to the infinite numbers of the generations to 
come. 

Because of the very fact that in the Parks, 
as well as in the Forest, considerations of 
economics and of direct human enjoyment 
must both be carefully weighed in reaching 
decisions, and because the physical problems 
are much the same in both, the fundamental 
difference in the points of view which should 

275 



four ll^ational ^atfe^ 

control the management of the National 
Parks and that of the National Forests can be 
safely maintained only by keeping them under 
separate administration. 

John Nolen says : — 

The minor purposes of forests may cor- 
respond somewhat with the major purposes of 
parks, and vice versa; but the main and essen- 
tial purposes of each are altogether different 
from the main and essential purposes of the 
other and any confusion of them is sure to 
lead to waste and disappointment. 

Scenery is our most valuable and our 
noblest resource. 

It is of utmost importance that each of 
these reservations be managed separately. 
Those who have distinguished themselves 
by appreciating the importance of Na- 
tional Parks and by helping them in every 
way, have been clear and emphatic in 
urging that National Park management 
be utterly separate from the management 
of National Forests. Among those who 
have taken this stand are John Muir, 
J. Horace McFarland, John Nolen, Mrs. 
276 



John D. Sherman, and in fact every one 
that I know of who is an authority on 
parks. The National Academy of Science 
also made a similar recommendation in 

1897- 

A Park should stand alone, and stand 
high. If we think of the Parks separately, 
keep them free from the dominion of com- 
mercialism, of interests, and of organiza- 
tions, we may hope in a short time to re- 
ceive the best use of them. 

The courts have recently made a num- 
ber of excellent decisions concerning the 
conservation of scenery, and have gone 
definitely on record recognizing its higher 
values. In a decision concerning a water- 
fall, Judge Robert E. Lewis said in part: — 

It is a beneficial use to the weary that they, 
ailing and feeble, can have the wild beauties 
of Nature placed at their^ convenient disposal. 
Is a piece of canvas valuable only for a tent- 
fly, but worthless as a painting? Is a block of 
stone beneficially used when put into the walls 
of a dam, and not beneficially used when 
carved into a piece of statuary? Is the test 
277 



iour l^ational ^ath0 

dollars, or has beauty of scenery, rest, recrea- 
tion, health and enjoyment something to do 
with it? Is there no beneficial use except that 
which is purely commercial? 

This decision is epoch-marking. It em- 
phasizes the importance to the Parks of 
having a management that is in no way 
tied up with any other work. 

From the time of the creation of the 
Yellowstone Park till 1914 there was no 
official head to the National Parks, but 
that year Secretary of the Interior Frank- 
lin K. Lane used his right and appointed 
the first Superintendent, Mark Daniels. 

The year 191 5 was memorable in Na- 
tional Park history. In that year Secre- 
tary Lane appointed Stephen T. Mather 
Assistant to the Secretary of the Interior, 
with authority to do all that he could 
for Parks. Mr. Mather, a business man, 
sympathetic, well acquainted with the 
Parks, saw their extraordinary possibilities. 
Having the administrative charge of these 
National Parks, he at once set to work 
278 



upon the extremely difficult task of bring- 
ing them out of chaos into order. In the 
short time that he has had charge of them, 
he has made a remarkable advance in se- 
curing for them a working plan of develop- 
ment, and a simplified and businesslike 
management. 

In 191 5 Superintendent Daniels was 
superseded by Robert B. Marshall, former 
Chief Geographer of the United States 
Geological Survey. Mr. Marshall worked 
enthusiastically but resigned in Decem- 
ber, 19 1 6. Mr. Mather became Director 
of the National Park Service in March, 
1917. 

Automobiles were first admitted to all 
National Parks in 191 5, and that year, 
too, a number of educative publications 
concerning them were issued. 

In September, 191 1, what may be called 
the first National Park Conference was 
held in the Yellowstone Park. This was 
called by Secretary of the Interior Walter 
L. Fisher. In his opening remarks at this 
279 



iour i^ational ^arh^ 

conference Mr. Fisher said that the pur- 
pose of the conference was to "discuss 
the matter of the present condition of the 
National Parks and what can best be 
done to promote the welfare of the Parks 
and make them better for the purpose for 
which they were created." This brought 
together a large gathering of men of affairs 
and distinctly furthered the creation of 
the National Park Service. 

The National Park Service is one of the 
subdivisions of the Department of the 
Interior. The Service was created by an 
act of Congress in 191 6, after a campaign 
that lasted for seven years. At its head is 
a Director. It gives the Parks an official 
standing and the care and development 
and administration needed. 

All National Parks and twenty-one of 
the National Monuments are in charge of 
the National Park Service. As Monu- 
ments are scenic and educational reserva- 
tions, it is plain that all these Monuments 
might well be in charge of the National 
280 



^arft^2DetJcIopment auti l^etD ^ath0 

Park Service. Then, too, the name " Monu- 
ment" might well be changed to "Park." 
Considering the far-reaching influence 
of the Parks on the general welfare, in a 
few years they might be placed under a 
cabinet officer who could appropriately 
be called the Secretary of National Parks. 



XVI 

THE SPIRIT OF THE FOREST 

The supreme forest of the world is in the 
Sequoia National Park. The Big Trees 
have attained here their greatest size and 
their grandest development. Here is the for- 
est's most impressive assemblage. In these 
groves at the southern end of the splendid 
Sierra is all the eloquence of wooded wilds 
— the silence of centuries and the eternal 
spirit of the forest. This forest is to be 
guarded and saved forever. 

How happily trees have mingled with 
our lives! Ever since our lowly ancestors 
crawled from gloomy caves, stood erect 
in the sunlight, wondered at this calm, 
mysterious world, and at last made homes 
beneath the hemlock and the pine — 
ever since then, down through the ages, 
through the dim, sad centuries, all the way 
from cave to cottage, the forest has been 
282 




ON THE ROAD TO SHERMAN TREE 
GIANT FOREST, SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK 



€l)e spirit of tfje f ore^^t 

a mother to our good race. How different 
our history had this wooded and beauti- 
ful world been treeless and lonely! Groves 
stand peaceful and prominent on every 
hill, in every dale of history that encour- 
ages or inspires. If we should lose the 
hospitality of the trees and the friendship 
of the forest, our race too would be lost, 
and the desert's pale, sad sky would come 
to hover above a rounded, lifeless world. 
The trees are friends of mankind. 

The forest that you see on the heights 
across the valley, that stands so steadfast 
upon the billowed and broken slopes, that 
drapes the dales and distances with peace- 
ful, purple folds, and makes complete 
with grace and grandeur a hanging garden 
of the hills — this is the forest that shel- 
tered our ancestors through the past's 
slow-changing years. 

The trees have wandered over the earth 

and prepared it for our race. Their low 

green ranks encircle the cold white realm 

of Farthest North ; they grow in luxuriance 

283 



Sour l^attonal ^ath0 

beneath the equatorial sun; they have 
climbed and held the heights though 
beaten and crushed with storm and snow; 
they have dared the desert's hot and 
deadly sand; they stand ankle-deep in 
bayous wrapped in tangled vines; they 
have breasted the surf and pushed out into 
the surges of the ocean; they have con- 
quered and reclaimed the rocks on con- 
tinents and islands; they have plumed 
with palms the white reefs of the blue 
and billowed sea; their triumphant masses 
stand where the Ice King rules; and in 
volcanoes' throats they have given beauty 
for ashes. Their banners wave under 
every sun and sky. Wherever our race 
has gone to live, the trees have given wel- 
come and shelter. 

The picturesque woodsman with his axe 
has helped to build nations and to improve 
and sustain them after they were built. 
He will play his part in the future. An 
axeman at work in the woods makes even 
a more stirring and romantic picture than 
284 



€lje spirit of t^t fote^t 

does the reaper in his harvest home on 
autumn's golden fields. It is good to hear 
the sounds of the axe as they echo and 
reecho among wooded wilds and then fade 
away, a melody amid the forested hills. 
The echoes of the axe suggest the old, old 
story — tell of a love-touched dream come 
true, of another home to be. When under 
the axe an old tree falls, it is the end of a 
life well lived, the end of a work well done. 
But this tree may rise, helped and shaped 
by happy hands, and become the most 
sacred place in all this world of ours — a 
home where lovers live — a cottage with 
hollyhocks and roses by the door. 

But we are leaving the low- vaulted past. 
These trees are not to fall. They are to 
stand. In paries, we have provided for 
trees a refuge with ourselves. They are 
to live on, and with them we shall build 
more stately mansions for the soul. 

Trees have trials. They know what it 
is to struggle and grow strong. With hard- 
ship they build history, adventure, pathos, 
285 



Hour l^ational ^ath^ 

and poetry. Every tree has a life full of 
incident. Aged trees are stored with the 
lore of generations, carry the character of 
centuries, have biographies, stirring life- 
stories. A sequoia is an impressive wonder. 
As the oldest settler upon the earth — the 
pioneer of pioneers — it knows the stories 
of centuries. At the dead lips of the 
Sphinx you listen in vain, but beneath a 
Big Tree the ages speak and the centuries 
shift their scenes. The Big Trees carry 
within their untranslated scrolls that which 
may enrich the literature of the world. 
Within a Big Tree's brave breast are more 
materials of fact and fancy than in the 
ocean's coral cove, or in the murmuring 
sea-shell on the shore. 

In the forest, around the foot of a tree, 
rages an endless and ever-changing strug- 
gle for existence. Here from season unto 
season a thousand forms of life feed and 
frolic, live and love, fight and die. Here 
Nature's stirring drama is playing on and 
always on. Here are trials and triumphs, 
286 



€lje spirit of tjje fntt^t 

activity and repose, and all the woodland 
scenes upon the wild world's stage amid 
the splendors and the shadows of the pines. 
At this place Nature smiles and sings, and 
here, at times, the lonely echo seems to 
search and seek in vain. 

I never see a little tree bursting from 
the earth, peeping confidingly up among 
the withered leaves, without wondering 
how long it will live, what trials or tri- 
umphs it will have. I always hope that 
it will be a home for the birds. I always 
hope that it will find life worth living, and 
that it will live long to better and to beau- 
tify the earth. 

In spring, summer, autumn, and winter, 
the broadleaf forest is a picture gallery, 
a fine-arts hall. In winter, abloom with 
snow flowers or in penciled tracery against 
the sky, how trustfully it sleeps! Con- 
fidently and in perfect faith, it awaits the 
supreme day of spring, when, amid the 
buzzing of bees, the songs of mating birds, 
and the unfolding of green and crumpled 
287 



iour l^ational ^arfeiS? 

leaves, comes the glory-burst of bloom. 
In leaf-filled summer the woodlands are a 
realm of rich content. But in reflective 
autumn, when the plaintive note of the 
bluebird has Southland in its tones, when 
the hills are golden, then the work of the 
leaves is done and they come out in gar- 
ments of glory to die — to die like the sun- 
set of a splendid day. Color is triumphant 
when autumn, the artist, touches the 
trees, for then the entire temperate zone 
encircling this rounded world is a wreath 
of glory. This wreath fades or falls away; 
and the little golden leaf that casts its lot 
upon the breeze and floats off in the midst 
of mysteries is upon a journey just as dear 
as when, amid the mists of sun and spring, 
it did appear. 

The woodland world of the mountains 
in National Parks is a grand commingling 
of groves and grass-plots, crags and cafions, 
and rounded lakes with forest frames and 
shadow-matted shores that rest in peace 
within the purple forest. Here, in Na- 
288 



-Cl^e Spirit of tfte ifore^t 

ture's mirrors, pond-lilies, all green and 
gold, rise and fall on gentle swells, or re- 
pose with reflected clouds and stars. Here, 
too, are drifts of fringed gentians, blue 
flakes from summer's bluest sky. Here 
young and eager streams leap in white 
cascades between crowding crags and 
pines. In these pictured scenes the birds 
sing, the useful beaver builds his pic- 
turesque home; here the cheerful chip- 
munk frolics and never grows up ; and here 
the world stays young. Forests give 
poetry to the prose of life and enable us to 
have and to hold high ideals. 

In almost every forest is the quaking 
aspen, the most widely distributed tree 
in the world. In autumn its golden ban- 
ners encircle the globe and adorn nearly 
one half the earth. Though this tree has 
a constitution so tender that it is easily 
killed by fire or injury, it is one of the 
greatest pioneer trees in the forest world. 
Through the ages the restless aspen leaves 
appear to have attracted the attention 
289 



four i^ational ^^arftjef 

of mankind. Unfortunately the old myths 
and legends concerning this merry, child- 
like tree told of fear or sorrow, but now 
every one catches the hopeful spirit of the 
aspen. Aspens are youth, eternal youth. 
Endlessly their dancing leaves proclaim 
youth. They are romping children. Their 
bare legs, their mud- and water-wading 
habits, their dancing out of one thing into 
another, are charmingly, faithfully child- 
like. 

Every tree has the ways of its race. 
The willow in its appointed place is ever 
leaning over watching the endless proces- 
sion of waters. Does it wonder whence and 
whither? The birches are maidens, slender, 
white, and fair. The maple has its own 
excuse for being. The elms arch the wood- 
land world with cathedral art. Beautiful 
is the lone silver spruce lingering among 
the grand golden lichened crags. The 
sturdy pines stand in ever green content- 
ment. The straight spruces and stately 
firs point ever upward and never cease to 
290 



€fje M^pitit of t^e forest 

call "Excelsior!" nor to climb toward 
their ideal. The oak, full of character, 
welcomes all seasons and all weathers. 
Within the forest, up toward the heights, 
stands a tree that wins and holds the 
heart like a hollyhock. This tree, the hem- 
lock, is a poem all alone. It is the heroine, 
the mother spirit of the woodland world, 
handsome, richly robed, symmetrical, grace- 
ful, sensitive, and steadfast. She, more 
than any other tree, appeals to the eye 
and the heart. In her upcurving arms and 
entire expression there is a yearning. 
When the world was young she may have 
been the first tree to shelter our homeless, 
wandering race. To-day, when the wild 
folk of the outdoors are most beset with 
cold or storm, they go trustingly and con- 
fidingly to nestle in the hemlock's arms. 
And rightly the sequoia is the nobleman 
of all the forest world. 

That sweet singer, the solitaire, is the 
chorister of the forest. He puts the woods 
in song. Hear his woodnotes wild and the 
291 



iour i^ational ^arftje? 

Spirit of the Forest will thrill you! Medi- 
tations and memories will throng you. 
His matchless melody carries echoes of 
Orpheus and good tidings from distant 
lands where dreams come true. Far away, 
soft and low, the wood itself seems to be 
singing a hopeful song, a rhythm of ages, 
that you have heard before. Pictured 
fairyland unfolds as you listen. In it is 
the peace, the poetry, the majesty, and 
the mystery of the forest. 

Go to the trees and get their good tid- 
ings. Have an autumn day in the woods, 
and beneath the airy arches of limbs and 
leaves linger in paths of peace. Speak to 
the jostling little trees that are so pretty 
and so eager. Stand beneath the mon- 
archs, rugged and rich in character. Lie 
down upon the brown leaves, and look 
far away through the slowly vanishing 
vistas full of forest, of columns that are 
filled with kindest light. Leaves of red, 
bronze, and gold will rest in the sunlight, 
or be falling back to earth without a fear. 
292 



€^t Spirit of tf)e f oreisft 

The brook will murmur on; around, the 
falling nuts may patter upon the fallen 
leaves; the woodpecker may be tip-tap- 
ping ; the birds will be passing for the South- 
land; the squirrels will be planting for the 
ages. Though there are stirring activities 
and endless fancies, your repose will be com- 
plete. Here where the lichen-tinted col- 
umns of gray and brown are rich and beau- 
tiful in the mellow light, you will be at your 
best — your own will come to you — with 
the Infinite you will be in tune. Stay till 
night, and from the edge of the woods see 
the sun go down in triumph. While all is 
hushed, watch the castled crag and the 
gnarled pine on the hilltop blacken against 
the golden afterglow. In the reflective 
twilight hour you may catch the murmur 
and the music of the wind-touched trees. 

I wish that every one might have a night 
by a camp-fire at Mother Nature's hearth- 
stone. Culture began by a camp-fire in the 
forest. Ages and ages ago, lightning one 
rainy evening set fire to a dead tree near 
293 



iout i^ational $ath0 

the entrance to a cave. The flames lured 
some of our frightened ancestors from their 
cheerless lair, and as they stared at the 
burning wood, they pushed back their long 
tangled hair, the better to watch the move- 
ments of the mysterious flames. Around 
this fire these primitive people gathered for 
the first social evening on the earth. When 
in the forest one sits within the camp-fire's 
magic tent of light, amid the silent, sculp- 
tured trees, thrilling through one's blood 
go all the trials and triumphs of our race. 
A camp-fire in the forest marks the most 
enchanting place on life's highway wherein 
to have a lodging for the night. 

Weird and strange are the feelings that 
flow as winds sweep and sound through the 
trees. Now the Storm King puts a bugle to 
his lips, and a deep, elemental hymn is sung 
while the blast surges wild through the 
pines. Soon Mother Nature is quietly sing- 
ing, singing soft and low, while the breezes 
pause and play in the pines. From the past 
one has been ever coming, with the future 
294 



€IJe spirit of ttje fatt^t 

is destined ever to go, when with centuries 
of worshipful silence one waits for a wind in 
the pines. Ever the good old world grows 
better, both with songs and with silence, 
in the pines. 

One touch of forest nature makes the 
whole world kin. A tree is the flag of Na- 
ture, and forests give a universal feeling 
of good will. In the boundless forest the 
boundary-lines of nations are forgotten. 
Some time an immortal pine may be the 
flag of a united and peaceful world. In the 
forests' fairyland are still heard "the horns 
of Elfland faintly blowing." There — 

"Echoes roll from soul to soul, 
And grow forever and forever." 

Kinship is the spirit of the forest. 



XVII 
WILD LIFE IN NATIONAL PARKS 

Hunters are excluded from National 
Parks, and within these wonderlands all 
shooting is prohibited. All National Parks 
are wild-life sanctuaries, places of refuge for 
birds and animals. There the wild folk are 
not pursued, trapped, or shot. Nearly all 
the principal birds and beasts of North 
America are to be found in these Parks. 
Here may be seen the lively, merry play- 
pranks of young bears, young birds, and 
young beavers. Each Park is thus a wild- 
life paradise where the animals are safe, free 
from the fear of being killed by man. These 
Parks are ideal places in which to enjoy the 
animals and to study their character; and 
they are a happy hunting-ground for the 
hunter who carries the camera. Recreation 
in these wonderlands is thus absolutely 
separated from the butchering business. 
296 



mitx %ift m l^ational ^arfejer 

What a glorious exchange! All this should 
help the good old world to grow better. 
Making a wild-animal place of refuge is 
equivalent to making a park-place of refuge 
for ourselves. 

One day, in what is now the Rocky 
Mountain National Park, I came upon 
a luxuriously equipped camping-party, in 
which were at least a score of people. They 
had a splendid outfit and bore evidence of 
culture and refinement. I came upon their 
camp just at the close of a day that they 
had devoted to a hunting-contest. I do not 
recall the prize that the winning side se- 
cured, but all members of the party, young 
and old, men and women, had engaged in 
the contest. They had taken sides, and each 
side had endeavored during the day to kill 
more animals than the other. Every living 
thing was allowable. Piled up against a log 
near the camp were two heaps of dead 
wild folk — squirrels and chipmunks, grouse 
and hummingbirds, water-ouzels, ptarmi- 
gans, bluebirds, a robin, a wren, a snow- 
297 



four Rational ^avh^ 

shoe rabbit, and I know not how many 
others. 

People who engage in this kind of sport 
have characters that I cannot understand. 
These people, with all the advantages of 
culture and refinement, were out in the 
wild, lovely, splendid scenes. They had for- 
gotten all other forms of recreation or en- 
joyment and had sunk back into barbaric 
blood-shedding "sport." 

Man has appeared to the furred and 
feathered wilderness people as a wanton 
murderer. Animals have been constantly 
in danger, and nowhere nor at any time 
were they safe. Too often animals have 
been called cowards. They have grown shy 
and wild from necessity. Their life has 
depended on keeping out of the way of 
man. Along with the getting of food, their 
chief concern is "safety first." This re- 
quires that they be eternally vigilant to 
flee from the near presence of man. The 
invention of the long-range repeating rifle 
added a large element of fear and con- 
298 



Wiin %ih in l^ational ^arfe^ 

sequent shyness to the life of the wild peo- 
ple. 

But now our National Parks are reform- 
ing man. The wildest of animals quickly 
become half-tame in any place that is safe. 
During the past few years thousands of ex- 
cellent photographs have been made of big 
game in National Parks. Elk, antelopes, 
and mountain sheep have been photo- 
graphed singly and in groups at the dis- 
tance of only a few yards. 

"It is better to let the wild beast run 
And let the wild bird fly; 
Each harbors best in his native nest, 
Even as you and I." 

None of the big animals in the United 
States are ferocious. In parks it is men, 
not animals, who are on their good be- 
havior — his hand restrained, man tem- 
porarily becomes as inoffensive as the 
animals. It may be, if we quit shooting 
animals on one side of a Park boundary- 
line, that in due time we shall become 
sufficiently civilized to stop killing people 
299 



on the other side of a national boundary- 
line. 

That the habitual wildness of birds and 
animals is the result of experience, rather 
than instinct, was forcefully illustrated to 
me by a surprise that I enjoyed with wild 
mountain sheep in a side canon of the Colo- 
rado River in Arizona. Bighorn sheep are 
proverbially alert and wild. Imagine my 
astonishment when two or three of a flock 
of bighorns walked up and touched me 
with their noses ! Evidently they had never 
before seen man. Trustfully they ap- 
proached to satisfy their native curiosity. 

For a number of days I was close to this 
flock, and several times I walked among 
them. They showed no excitement; they 
had nothing to fear. Without doubt, they 
had not been fired upon, chased, or even 
approached by man before. When I started 
for other scenes, one of the ewes of this 
wild herd followed me for more than an 
hour. Here were wild animals in a truly 
natural state! The abundance of easily 
300 



Wilti %ift in l^ational ^arfe^ 

watched bird and animal life in these nu- 
merous Parks affords a splendid opportu- 
nity to learn how these so-called wild peo- 
ple live and who they are. 

Our greatest animal is the grizzly bear. 
In the Parks we may make his acquaint- 
ance. The story of "Ben Franklin," who 
was reared by James Capen Adams, " Griz- 
zly Adams," an early mountaineer and 
hunter of California, tells of a noble grizzly 
bear. 

While hunting in the Yosemite in 1854, 
Adams killed a mother grizzly and cap- 
tured two tiny cubs. A greyhound suckled 
them, and Adams kept one of the cubs — 
Ben Franklin. Ben was never chained, but 
followed his master everywhere through 
the mountains with a devotion equal to that 
of a faithful dog. Adams always treated 
him with kindness and understanding, and 
trained him to carry huge packs. Ben also 
rendered other startling services. 

One day, while returning from a hunt 
with Ben at his heels, Adams suddenly 

3QI 



four l^ational ^ath^ 

came upon a mother grizzly and three cubs 
in the close quarters of a thicket. The un- 
expected encounter probably caused the 
big bear to defend her cubs, and she sprang 
upon Adams before he could fire his rifle. 
He was knocked down and seriously 
wounded. Though still a youngster, Ben 
was grandly loyal and brave; he instantly 
sprang at the huge bear's throat and put up 
a courageous fight. This distracted the big 
bear's attention and gave Adams a chance 
to spring out of harm's way and shoot her. 
Little Ben was terribly bitten. So grateful 
was Adams that he dressed Ben's wounds 
before he attended to his own. Both Adams 
and Ben survived, and ever after they were 
close companions. 

For brain-power, prowess, and sheer 
force of character the grizzly is the king of 
the wilderness. He knows it, and therefore 
is the aristocrat of the wilds. With real 
intelligence, and, if kindly tamed, with 
wonderful loyalty and devotion, he is an 
outdoor citizen of high type, and does not 
302 



Wilti %ik in l^ational ^ath^ 

merit the extermination that threatens 
him. 

A grizzly is ever alert, vigilant, and cau- 
tious, unless his well-developed bump of 
curiosity temporarily hypnotizes him and 
betrays him into momentary dullness and 
forge tfulness. He is not a coward, but 
simply believes in preparedness and safety 
first, and so seldom blunders into trouble. 
He is popularly believed to be ferocious. 
Two or three generations ago he may have 
been fierce, but he is not so now. He uses 
his keen wits to avoid man, and never at- 
tacks wantonly nor fights if he can avoid it. 
But he is a masterful fighter, with strength, 
endurance, courage, mentality, and prompt 
action in emergencies. 

There is little that the grizzly or the 
black bear will not eat. Fresh meat or 
carrion, honey, grasshoppers, ants, grubs, 
fish, mice and others pests, grass, fruits, 
berries, bark, roots, leaves — all may be 
included in the bill of fare of this omnivo- 
rous feeder. The grizzly appears more in- 
303 



iour i^ational ^arh^ 

clined to belong with vegetarians than with 
the Carnivora. He hibernates from three to 
five months each winter. The latitude, alti- 
tude, snowfall, weather, and the peculiari- 
ties and condition of the bear determine 
the length of his hibernation. Before enter- 
ing a cave or opening to spend his hibernat- 
ing sleep he fasts for a few days. In the 
spring, for several days after he emerges he 
eats little. 

Except the Alaskan bear, the only other 
kind we have is the black bear. His habits 
are similar to the grizzly's, but he is smaller 
than the grizzly. The color of bears varies 
widely in the same family as well as in the 
two species and numerous subspecies. 
Color has nothing to do with the kind of 
bear: either the black or the grizzly may 
be black or cinnamon. The black bear is 
much more playful, and he climbs trees as 
readily as a cat. The grizzly does not climb 
into trees. 

The black bear is a playful bluffer. One 
day, as I was seated on the edge of Yellow- 
304 



Wilt} %ift in l^ational ^ath^ 

stone Lake, several feet above the water, 
a young black bear came ambling by. In 
passing, he leaped at me with a wild ' ' woof. ' * 
His bluff was effective. I shrank back, and 
tumbled into the lake. 

The creation of the Yellowstone National 
Park, for "the benefit and enjoyment of 
the people," was one of the great achieve- 
ments for mankind. It also was a great 
event in the world of wild folk. The Yel- 
lowstone is one of the greatest wild-life 
sanctuaries in the world. In its thirty-three 
hundred square miles are numerous varie- 
ties of wild animals. Each summer as many 
as sixty thousand elk feed in it, and there 
are also buffaloes and antelopes, and flocks 
of sheep and herds of moose. Black bears 
are on every hand, and grizzly bears are 
often seen near by. 

The caribou of the North make a long 
north-and-south migration with the sea- 
sons. The deer and the elk of the mountain 
parks, like many birds, simply migrate up 
and down the heights, spending summers in 
305 



Hour l^ational ^ath0 

the high altitudes and winters in the foot- 
hills. 

On the thousand hills, meadows, crags, 
and moorlands of the National Parks are 
herds, flocks, and bands of elk and moose 
and deer and the agile mountain sheep. 
There are more than five hundred kinds of 
birds. A census of wild-life folk in all Na- 
tional Parks would show a numerous popu- 
lation: possibly a hundred thousand elk, 
half as many deer, several thousand sheep, 
a few thousand goats, several hundred 
antelopes, a few hundred moose, a thousand 
or so of bears, many thousand beavers; 
minks, conies, marmots, and muskrats in 
uncountable thousands; and birds in un- 
told millions. 

The antelope is a strange, isolated species. 
Formerly it ranged widely over the plains, 
but now it is almost exterminated. It has 
no dewclaw. It can erect and depress its 
fluff of white tail at will; this is a means of 
signaling. Of all big game, the antelope 
perhaps is the fastest runner. This animal 
306 



Wil^ %itt m i^ationai ^atk^ 

sheds the outer part of the horns each year, 
retaining the spikelike core. 

The gray wolf, coyote, fox, lynx, otter, 
skunk, and porcupine are numerous in the 
Parks. The porcupine, even at his wildest, 
shows the least signs of fear and is the dull- 
est-witted animal in the woods. 

Glacier Park probably excels in the num- 
ber of mountain goats. Here they are to be 
seen in one of the most picturesque and 
precipitous ranges, in topography which 
goats enjoy. The Rocky Mountain Park 
probably excels in the number of bighorn 
sheep. 

Along the streams the picturesque 
beaver, a permanent home-builder, lately 
almost exterminated, is reestablishing him- 
self and restoring the scenes that were 
known to the pioneers. 

The food of the beaver is the bark of 
aspen and willow trees. He does not eat 
fish or meat. Instead of hibernating in 
winter, beavers harvest a quantity of food- 
supplies in the autumn and store them for 
307 



iour lilational ^ath0 

winter use. These are piled in the water 
beside their house. After gnawing down 
trees, cutting them into sections, and 
eventually eating the bark, they use the 
wood in constructing dams and houses. 

Besides taking thought for the morrow, 
they build permanent homes, and keep 
them clean and in repair. They skillfully 
construct dams and canals to insure a con- 
stant water-supply in which to live, work, 
play, and travel. These give a charm to 
landscapes, and are a benefit to mankind. 
Beavers were the world's first engineers and 
the first conservationists. They have in- 
dustry, patience, and persistence, combined 
with mental power. 

They live in colonies or communities. 
Evidently they know the wisdom of the old 
saying "All work and no play," etc., for 
they often play as well as work, and also 
take a long summer vacation. Excellent 
workers as they are, they avoid unneces- 
sary labor and do less of it than any other 
animal I know. There were civic centers 
308 



9^ilti Eife m i^ational ^ath^ 

in the animal world long before man con- 
ceived such an idea for himself. 

The mountain lion is one of the slyest 
and most elusive animals in the woods. 
Rarely is it seen, although its keen curios- 
ity leads it to come close to camping-parties 
and to follow individuals through the woods. 

On the lower slopes of most Parks a 
few snakes are found, but they are wholly 
absent from the middle and the higher 
slopes. 

In most of the Park streams trout are 
found — Western brook trout, Eastern 
brook trout, and California rainbow trout. 

Among the more prominent birds com- 
mon in a number of the Parks are eagles, 
grouse, ptarmigans, Clarke crows, camp- 
birds, — Rocky Mountain jays, — robins, 
bluebirds, blackbirds, song sparrows, white- 
crowned sparrows, canon wrens, solitaires, 
and water-ouzels. In several of the Na- 
tional Parks a number of species of hum- 
mingbird are found. 

Each spring many species of birds mi- 
309 



four l^ational ^arhjef 

grate up the mountain-slopes, where they 
nest in the alpine heights. The mountain 
migration, requiring a flight of only an 
hour or two, gives them climatic condi- 
tions similar to that of the Arctic Circle, to 
reach which would cost them a journey of 
several thousand miles. 

Some species bring forth two broods each 
summer. The first is raised in the lowlands, 
where the young are fed while flower life in 
the lowlands is at its best. As soon as the 
young birds are able to care for themselves, 
the parent birds move up the mountain- 
side into the very heart of summer. Here 
they nest again. How romantic is every 
habit and custom in Bird World! The sec- 
ond nest of children is thus reared on the 
alpine slopes. This enables the old birds to 
bring up each brood in the midst of an 
abundant food-supply. The white-crowned 
sparrow and two or three species of hum- 
mingbird do this. 

A closer study of birds and animals will 
probably reveal the fact that numbers of 
310 



^ilti %iit in i^ational ^axh^ 

them mate for life. My experience has led 
me to believe that wolves and foxes, blue- 
birds, wrens, eagles, and other kinds of wild 
life do this. 

Of all the birds in the West, or in the 
world, the one most hopefully eloquent 
is the solitaire. The song of the hermit 
thrush has a touch of sadness — it subdues 
and gives to one a touch of reflective loneli- 
ness; but the song of the solitaire stirs one 
to be up and doing; it gives the spirit of 
youth. Its song comes from ages of free- 
dom under peaceful skies, from a mingling 
of the melody of winds and waters and of all 
rhythmic sounds that murmur and echo 
through Nature's wonderlands. 

High up in the mountains of the Na- 
tional Parks lives the ptarmigan, the largest 
bird resident of the snowy heights. It 
spends the entire year in the alpine zone, 
rarely descending below timber-line. Even 
the summits of the peaks are visited by this 
sky-high dweller. Its dress changes with 
the seasons; in winter it is pure white, 
311 



iour i^ational ^arftief 

stockings and all ; in midsummer it is gray- 
ish brown. These changing colors resemble 
those of the landscape and thus help pro- 
tect the ptarmigan from its enemies, the 
weasel, fox, bear, eagle, and mountain lion. 
Although smaller than the grouse, it re- 
minds one of that bird. It eats grasses and 
insects and the seeds and buds of alpine 
plants. Much of the winter-time is spent 
by these birds in the shelter of deep holes 
or runs beneath the compressed snow of the 
heights. Though far from the Arctic Cir- 
cle, they are close relatives of the ptarmi- 
gan that dwells in the realm of the polar 
bear. 

One of the best-dressed and best-man- 
nered bird families that visit National 
Parks is that of the waxwing — cedar and 
Bohemian. These birds usually travel in 
flocks. At a small watering-place they drink 
in routine, moving forward in an orderly 
manner. When a number of them are rest- 
ing upon a limb, if one catches an insect, 
he is quite likely to pass it to his neighbor, 
312 



a^ilti Exfc in i^ational ^axh^ 

and the neighbor in turn to pass it to the 
next neighbor. Their dress is quiet, refined, 
and attractive to a marked degree. It is an 
interesting fact that these birds, so dainty 
of dress, so refined of manner, do not sing. 

The canon wren is a beautiful singer. So, 
too, is the water-ouzel, a bird of the alpine 
brooks in the mountains of the West that 
has been immortalized by John Muir. But 
few species of birds sing every day in the 
year. One of those that do is the water- 
ouzel. 

Most birds and animals appear to desire 
human society. Birds will leave the seclu- 
sion of the forest to build by the roadside 
where people pass. Some kinds of little 
feathered folk have deserted old nesting- 
scenes and now nest by human homes. 
Robins, wrens, and bluebirds confidingly 
raise their families in the scenes where 
children romp and play. 

They may do this for better food op- 
portunities and increased safety from ene- 
mies, but it is also plain that many birds 
313 



four l^ational ^arfejef 

come chiefly to satisfy their desire for hu- 
man society. It has been often demon- 
strated that shy, well-fed birds and ani- 
mals are hoping and waiting for friendly 
advances on our part. Wild neighbors are 
glad of the opportunity to call on us, 
whether we break bread or not. They are 
also glad to have friendly calls returned. 
Birds and animals have individuality. Food 
and kindness, and speaking to animals in 
the universal language — friendly tones — 
are all means of promoting acquaintance. 

In the past we have greatly underrated 
the mental powers of animals. An intimate 
association with wild life in the Parks will 
probably convince most people that wild 
animals have the power to think and rea- 
son. It may also acquaint people with the 
fact that animals as well as human beings 
possess the traits of love, hatred, jealousy, 
anger, and revenge. Any one who asso- 
ciates much with wild life will discover the 
exceptional keenness of animal senses. In 
most animals scent is amazingly developed, 
314 



Wilti %ift in i^ational ©arfe^ 

and probably is the first of the senses to 
warn them of danger. 

Most animals may be spoiled by excessive 
or improper feeding. In the Yellowstone 
Park the bears, which are omnivorous 
feeders, have free access to the garbage- 
dumps and eat all sorts of unwholesome 
abominations. This improper eating is 
bound to have a bad influence upon their 
habits, and is already spoiling their dis- 
position. Beasts of prey in the Parks are 
held in check by the Government. Lions, 
lynxes, and other animals that become 
numerous and destructive, or bears that 
develop killing habits, are disposed of by 
the Government. 

The excess of big game and birds in the 
Parks overflows and stocks the territory 
outside. Each year, too, hundreds of elk 
and other big animals are shipped from 
Yellowstone to many parts of the country. 
Well might these Parks supply city zoos, 
or, better still, big wild-life reservations, 
with all available kinds of animals needed. 
315 



iour i^ational ^ath^ 

As well ship deer, moose, bears, beavers, 
and antelopes as to ship elk. Here is a large 
field for the distribution of wild life all over 
the United States. The general restocking 
of state and government wild-life reserva- 
tions may enable cities to cease maintain- 
ing their animal prisons — the zoos. 



XVIII 
IN ALL WEATHERS 

The seasons for visiting National Parks 
are spring, summer, autumn, and winter! 
Morning, noon, the sunset hour, under 
the stars and with the moon — all times, 
each in its way, are good for rambling in 
these places of instruction and delight. I 
have climbed numerous peaks by moon- 
light and starlight, and have stood on the 
summit of the Continental Divide with 
the winter moon. Nature is good at all 
times. Rainy days, gray days, windy days, 
all have something for you not ordinarily 
offered. So, too, have the sunny winter 
days when upon the dazzling snow fall 
the deep-blue shadows of the pines. For- 
get the season and the weather; visit the 
Parks when you can stay there longest. 

One day heavy clouds rested upon the 
snowy earth around my cabin, nine thou- 
317 



iour i^ationa! ^axh^ 

sand feet above sea-level. In these, and 
in the falling snow, I started up the Long's 
Peak trail, in what now is the Rocky 
Mountain National Park. I wished to 
measure the storm-cloud's vertical depth 
and to observe its movements. Only a 
ravine and instinct enabled me to snow- 
shoe through the blinding, flying snow and 
almost opaque sheep's-wool cloud. The 
cloud was three thousand feet thick. 

Suddenly, at twelve thousand feet, the 
depth of snow became markedly less. 
Within a few rods I burst through the 
upper surface of the cloud into brilliant 
sunshine ! Not a bit of snow or cloud was 
there above this upper level. 

From a high ridge I watched the top 
surface of the storm-cloud as it lay before 
me in the sun — a silvery expanse of un- 
ruffled sea, pierced by many peaks. Half 
a mile above towered vast, rugged Long's 
Peak. Like a huge raft becalmed in a quiet 
harbor, the cloud-sea moved slowly and 
steadily, almost imperceptibly, a short 
318 



3Fn ^n Wtatf^tt^ 

distance along the mountains; then, as if 
anchored in the center, it swung in easy- 
rotation a few degrees, hesitated, and 
slowly drifted back. Occasionally it sank, 
very slowly, several hundred feet, only to 
rise easily to its original level. 

With wonder I long watched this beau- 
tiful sunny spectacle, finding it hard to 
realize that a blinding snow was falling 
beneath it. Later I learned that this snow- 
fall was thirty inches deep over several 
hundred thousand square miles; but it fell 
only below the altitude of twelve thousand 
feet and not on the high peaks. 

Mountain-tops have more sunshine and 
fewer storms than the lowlands. The 
middle slopes of a peak regularly receive 
heavier falls of rain and snow than does 
the summit. 

The rugged mountains in all Parks are 
wonderful in the snow. Snowshoe excur- 
sions, climbs, skiing — all the sports of 
winter — may be enjoyed In these mag- 
nificent wilds. Mountains in winter hold 
319 



iour l^ational ^arft^ 

splendid decorations — sketches of black 
and white, ice architecture, rare groups 
that form a wondrous winter exhibition. 
Forests, canons, meadows, plateaus and 
peaks, where hills of snow and gigantic 
snow canons form dazzling structures and 
new topography, are marvelous exhibi- 
tions. The thousand and one decorations 
of frost and snow-flowers are treasures 
found only under the winter sky. 

During a high wind one winter, as I 
fought my way up Long's Peak, above 
timber-line I was pelted with gravel and 
sand till the blood was drawn. The milling 
air-currents simply played with me as 
they swept down from the heights. I was 
knocked down repeatedly, blown into the 
air, and then dropped heavily, or rolled 
about like some giant's toy as I lay resting 
in the lee of a crag. Standing erect was 
usually impossible and at all times dan- 
gerous. Advancing was akin to swimming 
a whirlpool. At last I reached the buzz- 
ing cups of an air-meter I had previousl}^ 
320 




LONG'S PEAK FROM CHASM LAKE 
ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK 



2fn "M Wtatf^tt^ 

placed in Granite Pass, twelve thousand 
feet above sea-level. This instrument was 
registering the awful wind-speed of one 
hundred and sixty-five miles an hour! It 
flew to pieces later during a swifter spurt. 

Although I intended going no farther, 
the wild and eloquent elements lured me 
to keep on to the summit of the peak, 
nearly three thousand feet higher. All 
my strength and climbing knowledge were 
necessary to prevent me from being blown 
into space. Gaining each new height was 
a battle. Forward and upward I simply 
wrested my way with an invisible, tireless 
contestant who seemed bent on breaking 
my bones or hurling me into unbanistered 
space. 

In one rocky gully the uprising winds 
became so irresistible that I had to re- 
verse ends and proceed with feet out ahead 
as bracers and hands following as anchors. 
There was no climbing from here on: the 
blast dragged, pulled, and floated me 
ever upward to the sunny, wind-sheltered 
321 



Hour l^ational ^atk0 

Narrows. The last stretch was a steep icy 
slope with a precipice beneath. Casting 
in my lot with the up-sweeping wind, I 
pushed out into it and let go. Sprawling 
and bumping upward, I had little else to 
do but guide myself. At last I stood on 
the top and found it in an easy eddy — al- 
most a calm compared to the roaring con- 
ditions below. Far down the range great 
quantities of snow were being explosively 
hurled into the air, then thrown into 
spirals and whirls that trimmed the peak- 
points with gauzy banners and silky pen- 
nants, through which the sunlight played 
splendidly. 

Stirring and wild, wonderful scenes are 
encountered during storms on mountain- 
tops, by the lakeshore, and in caiions. 
The dangers in such times and places are 
fewer than in cities. Discomforts? Scarcely. 
To some persons life must be hardly worth 
living. If any normal person under fifty 
cannot enjoy being in a storm in the wilds, 
he ought to reform at once. 
322 



3Fn m Wtat^tt^ 

In the intensity and clash of the elements 
there is a vigorous building environment. 
The storms furnish energy, inspiration, 
and resolution. There are no substitutes 
"just as good," no experiences just as great. 

One rainy June day I started up a dim 
steep trail toward the headwaters of the 
river St. Vrain, near timber-line in what 
is now the Rocky Mountain National Park. 
While enjoying the general downpour and 
its softened noise through the woods, I 
was caught in a storm-center of wrangling 
winds and waters, and was almost knocked 
down. Like a sapling, I bowed streaming 
in the storm. Later, as I sat on a sodden 
log, reveling in the elemental moods and 
sounds, a water-ouzel began to sing, but 
I heard little of his serene optimistic solo 
above the roar of the wind and stream. 

The storm raged louder as I approached 
timber-line. Clouds dragged among the 
trees. I could see nothing clearly. Every 
breath was like swallowing a wet sponge. 
Then a wind-surge rent the clouds and 
323 



Hour l^ational ^ath0 

let me glimpse the blue sun-filled sky. I 
climbed an exceptionally tall spruce. A 
comic Fremont squirrel scolded in rat- 
tling, jerky chatter as I rose above the 
sea of clouds and trees. Astride the slender 
tree-top, I felt that the wind was trying 
hard to dislodge me, but I held on. The 
tree quivered and vibrated, shook and 
danced; we charged, circled, looped, and 
angled. Nowhere else have I experienced 
such wild, exhilarating joy. In the midst 
of this rare delight the clouds rose, the 
wind calmed, and the rain ceased. Then 
suddenly a blinding, explosive crash al- 
most threw me from my observatory. 
Within fifty feet a tall fir was split to the 
ground. Quickly climbing back to earth, 
I eagerly examined the effects of the 
lightning-stroke. With one wild blow, in 
a second or less it had wrecked a century- 
old tree. 

Although I have rarely known lightning 
to strike the heights, I have frequently 
experienced peculiar electric shocks from 
324 



the air. I have never known such electri- 
cal storms to prove fatal nor to leave ill 
effects; and they may be beneficial. The 
day before the famous Poudre Flood, in 
May, 1904, I was traveling along the 
Continental Divide above timber-line near 
Poudre Lakes. While resting I was star- 
tled by the pulsating hum, the intermit- 
tent huzz-z-z-z and zit-zit and the vigorous 
hair-pulling of electricity-laden atmos- 
phere. 

Presently my right arm was momen- 
tarily cramped, and my heart seemed to 
lurch several times. These electric shocks 
lasted only about two seconds, but re- 
curred every few minutes. The hair- 
pulling, palpitation, and cramps seemed 
slightly less when I fully relaxed on the 
ground. When I tried to climb, I found 
myself muscle-bound from the electricity. 
Points of dry twigs momentarily exhibited 
tips of smoky blue flame, and sometimes 
similar flame encircled green twigs below 
the lower limbs. 

325 



iour l^ationa! ^arftjef 

Later that day I came to North Speci- 
men Mountain. There the electrical waves 
weakened or entirely ceased while I was 
in shadow, but they remained quite serious 
in the sun. I breathed only in gasps, and 
my heart was violent and feeble by turns. 
I felt as if cinched in a steel corset. After 
sundown I was again at ease and free from 
this strange electrical colic, which often 
worries or frightens strangers the first time 
they experience it. I soon forgot my own 
electrical experiences in the enjoyment 
that night of the splendidly brilliant elec- 
tric effects beneath the enormous moun- 
tain-range of cloud-forms over the foot- 
hills. Its surface shone momentarily like 
incandescent glass, and occasionally down 
the slopes ran crooked rivers of gold. 

I have had the good fortune to see gey- 
sers by sunlight, by moonlight, during 
gray stormy days, and also while the earth 
around them was covered with snow. 

By moonlight the mountainous Na- 
tional Parks are enchanted lands. There 
326 



3Fn ^U Wtatf^tt^ 

is a gentleness, a serenity, and a softness 
that is never known in daylight. Many 
a time I have explored all night long. The 
trail is strangely romantic when across it 
fall the moon-toned etchings of the pines. 
The waterfalls, crags, mountain-tops, for- 
est glades, and alpine lakes have marvelous 
combinations of light and shade, and they 
stir the senses like music. I wish that 
every one might see in the moonlight the 
Giant Forest in the Sequoia National Park, 
or timber-line in the Rocky Mountain 
National Park. By moonlight the Big 
Trees will stir you with the greatest ele- 
mental eloquence. Those who go up into 
the sky on mountains in the moonlight will 
have the greatest raptures and make the 
highest resolves. 

Miss Edna Smith is one of the most 
appreciative outdoor women I ever have 
known. Years ago I urged her to know 
the mountains at night. Here is one of her 
accounts of a night experience: — 



327 



iour l^ational ^arftjf 

At supper-time the chances seemed against 
a start. It was raining. Later the rain stopped, 
but the full moon was almost lost in a heavy 
mist and the light was dim. Mr. S. N. Husted, 
the guide, thought an attempt to ascend 
Long's Peak hardly wise. At eleven o'clock 
I went to Enos Mills for advice. He said, 
"Go." So we mounted our ponies and started, 
chilled by the clammy fog about us. 

After a short climb we were in another 
world. The fog was a sea of silvery clouds 
below us and from it the mountains rose like 
islands. The moon and stars were bright in 
the heavens. There was the sparkle in the air 
that suggests enchanted lands and fairies. 
Halfway to timber-line we came upon ground 
white with snow, which made it seem all the 
more likely that Christmas pixies just within 
the shadows might dance forth on a moon- 
beam. 

Above timber-line there was no snow, but 
the moonlight was so brilliant that the clouds 
far below were shining like misty lakes, and 
even the bare mountainside about us looked 
almost as white as if snow-covered. 

As we left our ponies at the edge of the 
Boulder Field and started across that rugged 
stretch of d6bris spread out flat in the brilliant 
moonlight, we found the silhouette of Long's 
Peak thrown in deep black shadow across it. 

328 



5n m Wtatf^tt^ 

Never before had that bold outline seemed so 
impressive. 

At the western edge of Boulder Field there 
was a new marvel. As we approached Key- 
hole, right in the center of that curious nick 
in the rim of Boulder Field shone the great 
golden moon. The vast shadow of the peak, 
made doubly dark by the contrast, made us 
very silent. When we emerged from Keyhole 
and looked down into the Glacier Gorge be- 
yond, it was hard to breathe because of the 
wonder of it all. The moon was shining down 
into the great gorge a thousand feet below and 
it was filled with a silvery glow. The lakes 
glimmered in the moonlight. 

Climbing along the narrow ledge, high above 
this tremendous gorge, was like a dream. Not 
a breath of air stirred, and the only sound was 
the crunch of hobnails on rock. There was a 
supreme hush in the air, as if something tre- 
mendous were about to happen. 

Suddenly the sky, which had been the far- 
off blue of a moonlit night, flushed with the 
softest amethyst and rose, and the stars 
loomed large and intimately near, burning 
like lamps with lavender, emerald, sapphire, 
and topaz lights. The moon had set and the 
stars were supreme. 

The Trough was full of ice and the ice was 
hard and slippery, but the steps that had been 

329 



iour l^ationa! ^arfe^ 

cut in the ice were sharp and firm. We had 
no great difficulty in climbing the steep ascent. 
We emerged from the Trough upon a ledge 
from which the view across plains and moun- 
tain-ranges was seemingly limitless. 

As we made our way along the Narrows the 
drama of that day's dawn proceeded with 
kaleidoscopic speed. Over the plains, ap- 
parently without end, was a sea of billowy 
clouds, shimmering with golden and pearly 
lights. One mountain-range after another was 
revealed and brought close by the rosy glow 
that now filled all the sky. Every peak, far and 
near, bore a fresh crown of new snow and each 
stood out distinct and individual. Arapahoe 
Peak held the eye long. Torrey's Peak and 
Gray's Peak were especially beautiful. And 
far away, a hundred miles to the south, 
loomed up the summit of Pike's Peak. So all- 
pervading was the alpine glow that even the 
near-by rocks took on wonderful color and 
brilliance. 

Such a scene could last but a short time. 
And it was well for us, for the moments were 
too crowded with sensations to be long borne. 
Soon the sun burst up from the ocean of clouds 
below. The lights changed. The ranges grad- 
ually faded into a far-away blue. The peaks 
flattened out and lost themselves in the dis- 
tance. The near-by rocks took on once more 

330 



their accustomed somber hues. And in the 
bright sunlight of the new day we wondered 
whether we had seen a reality or a vision. 

On the summit all was bright and warm. 
Long we lingered in the sunlight, loath to 
leave so much beauty, but at last we began 
the descent leisurely. It was a perfect trip. It 
seemed as if the stage were set for our especial 
benefit. It was an experience that will live 
with me always. At first I felt as if I could 
never ascend the peak again, lest the impres- 
sions of that perfect night should become con- 
fused or weakened. But I believe I can set 
this night apart by itself. And I shall climb 
Long's Peak again. 

To enjoy the Parks, we need but to go 
to them realizing that these wilderness 
realms are the greatest places of safety on 
the earth. The thousand dangers of the 
city are absent; the altitude of high moun- 
tains is not harmful but helpful — the air 
is free from dust and germs; and even the 
wildest and most tempestuous weather 
within them will bear acquaintance. 

The animals in the wilderness are not 
ferocious, and they wisely flee from the 
coming of Christian people. Extraordi- 
331 



iour i^ational ^atk^ 

nary skill is required to get close to any 
wild animal. Even the camera will put 
the biggest wild folk to flight! They at- 
tack only in self-defense, only when cor- 
nered and assailed by the hunter. The 
animals that have survived and left de- 
scendants are those which used their wits 
for flight and not in ferocity. The grizzly 
constantly uses his wits to keep out of a 
locality where human beings are. Wolves 
may once have been ferocious, but at 
present the aggressive ones are those in 
the jungles of nature-faking; wolves keep 
apart from civilization, and travelers are 
not likely to go out of their way to find 
them. In story-books the mountain lion 
crouches upon the cliff or lies in wait upon 
a tree-limb to spring upon human prey; 
but real lions do not do this sort of thing. 
Each year thousands of people scale 
peaks in the Rockies, the Sierra, and the 
Selkirks, or spend a less strenuous vaca- 
tion in the heights, up several thousand 
feet above the sea. From anaemics who 
332 



2Fn mi Wtatf^tx^ 

stay at home they hear the common super- 
stition that altitude is harmful! But the 
travelers return to their homes in high 
hopes and in vigorous health. The heights 
are helpful, and the outdoors is friendly 
at all times. These are splendid sources 
of hopefulness. They ** knit up the raveled 
sleaveof care." They arouse new interests, 
give broader outlooks. They are great 
blessings that every one needs. 

There is a growing appreciation of the 
safe and sane outdoors. People are rap- 
idly realizing that vacations in the Parks 
and wild places are needful first aids to 
impaired health, and also that outdoor 
life is absolutely necessary for sustained 
or increased efficiency. From the wilder- 
ness the traveler returns a man, almost a 
superman. Its elemental songs, pictures, 
and stories are a language of eloquent 
uplift. Go to the wilderness and get its 
good tidings ! The wilderness is democratic 
and is full of ideas. It gives efficiency and 
sympathy. The mingling of all classes in 
333 



iour H^ational ^arfe^ 

the Parks is a veritable blessing ; it is one of 
the greatest means of preventing internal 
strife and also of averting international war. 
Nature is an educational stimulus of 
rare force. The crumbling cliff, the glacial 
landscape, the wild, free clouds, birds, and 
trees, compel children — old and young — 
to observe and to think. They bring de- 
velopment and sympathy. They build the 
brain. They increase courage and kind- 
ness. Scenes and sunsets, cloud and storm, 
the stars and the sky, the music of wind 
and water, the purple forests, the white 
cascades, the colored flowers, the songs of 
birds, the untrimmed and steadfast trees, 
the shadows on the ground, the tangled 
grass, the round, sunny hills, the endless 
streams, the magic rainbow, and the 
mysterious echo — all these arouse thought, 
wonder, and delight in the mind of every 
child; and they have been the immortal 
nourishment of the great souls who have 
come from Mother Nature's loving breast 
to bless and beautify the world. 
334 



''The robe doth change the disposition." 
During summer vacations, the all-impor- 
tant rainy-day costume will save endless 
disappointment and worry. Rainy days 
will bear acquaintance — if you have 
clothes for the occasion. Cheerfulness and 
rainy days are united by waterproofs. One 
simply cannot cheerfully face a rainstorm 
in clothes that water will ruin. Hats or 
shoes that go to pieces in a downpour, 
skirts with colors that run — these mean 
the Waterloo of some one when the rain 
comes down. But an inexpensive hat, strong 
boots, and a raincoat — then let it rain! 

When one is in the woods, the foremost 
thing to remember is the direction back 
to camp. In a general way this is an- 
swered in the familiar caution: "Stop, 
look, and listen!" A traveler through the 
woods should occasionally stop and make 
sure of the direction in which he is trav- 
eling. At every important bend in his 
course he should look ahead and notice 
the most conspicuous landmark directly 
335 



iout ll^ational ^arh^ 

in front of him; then, about face for a look 
at the most important point or landmark 
that he has passed. He would thus be able, 
if he doubled on his own trail, to be guided 
by familiar objects, just as if he had trav- 
eled over it before in the same direction, 
with eyes open. Then, too, he should look 
to right and left for prominent or peculiar 
trees, cliffs, or other objects. 

Keeping eyes thus open and mind alert 
is not a burden; it adds to the pleasure 
along the way. Any one who has thus 
traveled through strange woods should 
have taken a mental picture of what he 
has seen as he went on, and should be able 
to sit down and make a rough sketch of the 
locality and of his trail, showing the loca- 
tion of camp, the course he has traveled 
from it, and the prominent objects on both 
sides. A fair knowledge of woodcraft will 
enable any one to determine the points of 
the compass. While this is important, it 
is of less importance than remembering 
the direction to camp. 
336 



If a person gets lost, he would do well at 
once to climb into a tree-top, or to the 
summit of the highest near-by place, and 
from the commanding height survey the 
surrounding country. This may enable 
him to see a familiar landmark. If he fails 
to recognize any point, let him make a 
comparatively small circle with the pur- 
pose of picking up his trail. He should 
be careful to avoid aimless wandering, to 
which often lost people are so prone. This 
he may do by following along the sum- 
mit of a ridge, or down the first brook or 
stream he can find. Of course, he will keep 
downhill in looking for running water. A few 
hours, or at most a few days, of stream-side 
travel will bring him where some one lives. 

One is not likely to starve to death in 
the wilds. Starving is a slow process, and 
experiences show that a fast of a few days 
may be beneficial. Then, too, roots, ber- 
ries, fruit, mushrooms, and tree-bark are 
to be found. With nothing but these, I 
have repeatedly lived for two weeks or 
337 



four l^ational ^arh^ 

longer, even at times when I was most 
active in exploring or mountain-climbing. 

If a man is hopelessly lost, and if he 
knows that his companions are sure to 
look for him, he should stop right where he 
is when he finds that he is lost, and should 
camp and light two signal fires, giving a 
call at intervals. 

Go into the Parks and get their en- 
couragement. Among the serene and stead- 
fast scenes you will find the paths of peace 
and a repose that is sweeter than sleep. 
If you are dulled and dazed with the fever 
and the fret, or weary and worn, — totter- 
ing under burdens too heavy to bear, — 
go back to the old outdoor home. Here 
Nature will care for you as a mother for a 
child. In the mellow-lighted forest aisles, 
beneath the beautiful airy arches of limbs 
and leaves, with the lichen-tinted columns 
of gray and brown, with the tongueless 
eloquence of the bearded, veteran trees, 
amid the silence of centuries, you will 
come into your own. 

338 



3Fn m mat^m 

Some time the grizzled prospector will 
lead his stubborn burro down the mountain 
and cease the search for gold ; some time the 
miner will lay down his pick, blow out his 
lamp or his candle, and leave the worked- 
out mine; some time eternal night will 
come upon the gas- and coal-oil lamp; but 
our sunny hanging wild gardens — our 
Parks — are immortal; they will give us 
their beauty and their inspiration forever. 



XIX 
THE SCENERY IN THE SKY 

This big round world carries in its 
heights four strange, marked features: the 
vast records of the Ice King ; timber-Hne, 
the alpine edge of the forest; the mountain- 
top regions above timber-line; and, over- 
rising these, the high peaks. Each of these 
features has scores of stories and pictures. 
All four of them are seen at their best in 
some of the National Parks. 

I. TIMBER-LINE 

The most telling timber-line that I have 
seen is on the slope of Long's Peak in the 
Rocky Mountain National Park. This is 
a wild place during a winter gale. It is a 
stirring place at all times and seasons. One 
day I went up to timber-line on Long's 
Peak with a number of children. They were 
interested, and even excited, by the dwarfed 
340 



€fje ^cencrp in tfje ^fep 

and strangely shaped trees. We found a 
dead pine that had lived two hundred and 
fifty-eight years, yet it was so small that a 
boy easily carried it about on his shoulder. 
Several little girls stood by a living spruce. 
Every child was taller than the little tree, 
yet the spruce had been growing when each 
of their great-grandmothers was born. All 
timber-line trees are undersized. Most of 
their ranks are less than eight feet high. 

One autumn a grizzly that I was follow- 
ing dug up a number of dwarfed trees at 
timber-line. I carried these home for care- 
ful examination. One of them was a black 
birch with a trunk nine tenths of an inch 
in diameter, a height of fifteen inches, and 
a limb-spread of twenty- two inches. It had 
thirty-four annual rings. Another was truly 
a veteran pine, though his trunk was but 
six tenths of an inch in diameter, his 
height twenty-three inches, and his limb- 
spread thirty-one inches. His age was 
sixty-seven years. A midget that I carried 
home in my vest pocket was two inches 
341 



Sour l^ational ^arft^ 

high, had a limb-spread of about four 
inches, and was twenty-eight years of age. 
Timber-Hne is one of Nature's most in- 
teresting regions. Its location and also its 
marked characteristics are determined by 
climatic conditions — by cold, snow, wind, 
moisture, and drought. Wind is a most in- 
fluential factor. The position of thousands 
of miles of timber-line is determined by it. 
At timber-line the Storm King says, "Thus 
far and no farther." The trees do not 
heed, but persistently try to go on, and the 
struggle for existence becomes deadly. 
They appear like our unfortunate brothers 
whom fate has chained in the slums. The 
trees try to stand erect and climb onward 
and upward, but in vain. The elements are 
relentless. The wind blows off their arms 
and cuts them with flying sand. The cold 
dwarfs them, and for nine months in the 
year the snow tries to twist and crush the 
life out of them. Some become hunchbacks; 
others are broken, bent, and half-flayed; 
while a few crouch behind the rocks. Many 
342 



€]Je ^ccnerp in tf)c M>hp 

stretches of timber-line are so battered by 
the wind that the trees have the appear- 
ance of having been recently swept by a 
cyclone, or overthrown by a giant roller. 

What a weird scene! Here for ages has 
been the line of battle between the woods 
and the weather. At most timber-lines the 
high winds blow chiefly from one direction. 
Many of the trees possess a long, vertical 
fringe of limbs to leeward, being limbless 
and barkless to stormward. Each might 
serve as an impressive symbolic statue of 
a wind-storm. Permanently, their limbs 
stream to leeward together, with fixed bends 
and distortions, as if cast in metal at the 
height of a storm. Many present an un- 
conquerable and conscious appearance, like 
tattered pennants or torn, triumphant bat- 
tle-flags of the victorious forest! Some 
trees are several inches in diameter and 
only a few inches in height; others are 
creeping away from the direction of the 
storms, retreating from life's awful bat- 
tle. All beauty and nobleness of appear- 
343 



iour l^ational ^arh^ 

ance are lost. But the trees have done their 
best. 

Timber-line is not stationary. In most 
places it is advancing, climbing the heights. 
This advance is confined mainly to moist 
territory. In a few dry places the ranks are 
losing ground — are being driven back 
down the slopes; but these advances and 
retreats are extremely slow. 

The altitude of timber-line varies with 
locality. On Mount Orizaba, in Mexico, it 
is a little over thirteen thousand feet; in the 
San Juan Mountains, in Colorado, a little 
above twelve thousand; in the Sierras and 
the Rockies, between eleven thousand and 
thirteen thousand ; in the Cascades and the 
Alps, about sixty-five hundred feet; on 
Mount Washington, at forty-five hundred 
feet. It is lower with increased distance 
from the Equator, and at last is only a 
stone's throw above sea-level, finally show- 
ing its line in the lowlands of the Far- 
thest North. Among the trees that main- 
tain the front ranks at timber-line are 
344 



€5e ^ccnerp in tJje ^fep 

pines, spruces, firs, aspens, birches, and 
willows. 

Many beautiful flowers are found at 
timber-line, along with bees, butterflies, 
birds, chipmunks, and foxes. Timber-line 
is a strangely interesting, arousing place. 
As I have said in "The Rocky Mountain 
Wonderland " : — 

The powerful impressions received at tim- 
ber-line lead many visitors to return for a better 
acquaintance, and from each visit the visitor 
goes away more deeply impressed ; for timber- 
line is not only novel and strange, it is touched 
with pathos and poetry and has a life-story 
that is heroic. Its scenes are among the most 
primeval, interesting, and thought-compelling 
to be found upon the globe. 

2. ABOVE THE TIMBER-LINE 

The treeless moorlands and the crags 
that fill the sky above the limits of tree- 
growth form an extensive mountain-top 
world all by itself, a realm of plateaus and 
sky prairies, which only a few have ex- 
plored. These regions stand out like is- 
345 



four l^ational ^atfeiE? 

lands In the sky; they are singular tree- 
less expanses above the surrounding forest 
sea. 

This realm is not barren and lifeless. For 
a number of species it is home. The ptarmi- 
gan and the rose finch, the cony and the 
bighorn, live in the heights the year round. 
Many migrating birds and animals use the 
region for a nursery and a summer resort. 
Here, early in the autumn. Nature produces 
her last berries. Here assemble birds from 
the lowlands, and flocks from the North 
stop to feed and frolic while migrating to 
the Southland. 

Here, too, along with peaks and moor- 
lands, meadows and wild-flower gardens, 
are crags, plateaus, canons, lakes, glaciers, 
and snow-fields. Countless small, clear 
streams originate in these island heights 
and from them start merrily down to the 
far-off seas. Singly and in clusters, with 
areas large and areas small, these sky is- 
lands are a feature of most of the National 
Parks. 

34<5 




O i: 
>< s 

O " 
o 



"" o 
I 



€f)e ^cencrp in tjje ^fep 

In the Rocky Mountain National Park 
a few flowers bloom on the highest peaks 
more than fourteen thousand feet above 
sea-level. They are visited by numerous 
winged insects, even by butterflies. Let a 
cloud come over the sun, or a breeze start, 
and the butterflies, and perhaps other 
winged insects above timber-line, fold wings 
and drop and remain motionless till the sky 
clears. Evidently this is "safety first " from 
the short-lived but violent gales. 

It is believed that the Arctic-alpine 
plants in these heights were brought to 
them from the Arctic region on the great 
ice flow. They bloom in both these zones 
at about the same date. Among the bright 
blossoms in the polar mountain-top gar- 
dens are the columbine, gentian, aster, 
daisy, shooting-star, bluebell, a few kinds of 
phlox, and that dearest of the heath blos- 
soms, the cassiope. Numbers are dwarfed 
to unbelievable smallness. Think of blue- 
bells perfectly formed and colored and yet 
so fascinatingly small and dainty that a 
347 



iour l^ational ^arfe^ 

half-dozen could be sheltered in the upper 
half of a thimble! 

The alpine wild-flower garden on Mount 
Rainier is one of the most striking on the 
globe. Just above the timber-line and be- 
low and among the glaciers, colored flowers 
grow in tall and crowded luxuriance. They 
color broken distances for miles. It is 
doubtful if the world can show another 
hanging garden in which wild flowers so 
splendidly mingle their lovely hues with the 
broken picturesque forests, wild crags, and 
the grandeur of glaciers. 

In the Rocky Mountain National Park 
there is an accessible empire in the moun- 
tainous sky, up more than two miles above 
the wide plains of the sea. Mountain- 
climbers pass through these scenes on their 
way up peaks into the sky without stop- 
ping to see the wonders. They have at best 
only an introduction, or a hurried traveler's 
impression, of a strange and varied exhibit. 

A few centuries ago it was a common 
belief that high mountains were peopled 
348 



€l)e keener? in tjje ^hp 

with monsters and demons. Those demons 
are gone from the popular imagination; but 
there still exists a most unfortunate super- 
stition, commonly believed, that altitude is 
harmful ! Yet it has a thousand benefits for 
the visitor. 

In the heights dwell a bigness, a strange- 
ness, a friendliness not felt in the earth's 
lower scenes. Altitude is ever refreshing. 
The dust-filled, noise-crowded air is far be- 
low. From these scenic mountain heights 
one commands a new world of mountain- 
ous cloud-scenery in the sky. Grand, deep, 
blue gorges lie open in the cloud plateaus 
and mountains. To the enraptured eye the 
shifting clouds sometimes become conti- 
nents and islands, real lands where people 
live, landscapes upon whose sunny hills 
and forested mountains shadows of other 
clouds fall, and across whose expanding 
plains many winding rivers run. Often the 
largeness of view enables one to see vast 
cloud-pieces moved into place, shifted else- 
where, and others arranged. Often a num- 
349 



iour l^ational ^arfe^ 

ber of these movements are seen at once. 
Here, too, the sunrise comes grandly be- 
fore one, and from these mountain-rims the 
painted sky of evening is most intense and 
vivid. Cloud and color often mingle in 
paintings of undreamed vastness and glory. 

Up here one appreciates the solemnity 
and the splendor of the moonlight. The 
lonely silver moon appears a wandering 
planet, almost within hailing distance. 
You call, and a hundred cliffs call with you. 
You listen, but there is only the murmur 
of a far-oflf waterfall, or the receding, echo- 
ing crash of some falling cliff. Everything 
is in half-tone. The chasm is concealed; 
peaks along the sky-line are suggested ; the 
valleys lie in subdued and mellow light; 
strangely, from the silken shadow folds, 
the pinnacles peer at the moon. Through 
the clean, clear air, the infinite sky becomes 
a near, inverted field, crowded thick with 
stars. 

This is a region worthy of multitudes of 
visitors, yet it has only a few. Most people 
3 SO 



do not dream of its existence. Some time 
throngs will come to these strange island 
shores in the sky as freely as now they 
crowd to the beach and the breakers of 
the sea. 

3. THE WORK OF THE ICE KING 

With his glaciers the Ice King ground 
most of the soil in which now stand the 
forests, the grasses, and the flowers. In pro- 
ducing this soil he sculptured from the 
solid rock of the earth much of the scenery, 
shaped many of the flowing landscapes, and 
formed the excavations in which ten thou- 
sand lakes now rest in beauty. Long ice 
periods have had their sway, then vanished. 
Most of the earth appears to have been ice- 
covered a number of times. Then, after 
ages, the ice has returned. These periods 
appear to have alternated with others whose 
climatic conditions were similar to those 
now holding sway. The remaining glaciers, 
the world over, are growing smaller and 
smaller. 

351 



iour i^atioual ^atk^ 

A glacier is a slow-moving mass of ice. 
It may be as small as an average steamship; 
it may be less than a mile wide and several 
miles long; or it may cover hundreds of 
square miles. It may be less than a hundred 
feet, or a thousand feet or more, in thick- 
ness. It may move only an inch or two a 
day, or it may move several feet. Com- 
monly it moves downward, but occasionally 
one moves upward. The movement is due 
to gravity and to the plasticity or rubbery 
nature of the ice when under sufficient 
pressure or weight. In a large glacier the 
weight of the superimposed icy stratum is 
immense; it is greater than the bottom 
layers can support. Under the enormous 
pressure the bottom layers crawl or flow 
from beneath like pressed dough. This 
forced mass moves outward in the direc- 
tion of the least resistance — commonly 
down the slope. 

Glacier ice is formed by snow accumulat- 
ing at a given point more rapidly than it 
melts. This is due chiefly to wind, snow- 



€lje J>cenerp in tfje ^ftp 

slides, and heavy snowfall. The glacier, 
heavy and powerful, planes, polishes, and 
reshapes the surface over which it travels, 
or the walls with which it comes in contact. 
Most of the lake-basins were gouged out by 
glaciers. Mountain-ranges have been worn 
down to hills or plains; canons and depres- 
sions have been filled, and extensive areas 
overlaid with ground-up rocky material. 
The gentle snowflake has been the earth's 
chief maker of scenery and soil. Snow- 
flakes, working en masse and through long 
periods of time, have formed glaciers and 
as such have wrought wonders. 

A moraine is an embankment or delta of 
boulders and crushed rock deposited by a 
glacier or ice river. Though commonly at 
the end, it may be both along the side and 
at the end of a glacier, or of the channels 
which the glacier once filled. All the moun- 
tainous National Parks have important 
glacial records or ruins that almost entirely 
cover them. These are moraines, soil-de- 
posits, glaciated canons, and lake-basins. 
353 



gout l^ational ^at^^ 

Vast is the quantity of material picked 
up and transported by glaciers. Moun- 
tains are moved piecemeal, and are ground 
to boulders, pebbles, and rock-flour in the 
moving. Besides the material the glacier 
gathers up and excavates, it carries the 
wreckage thrown down upon it by land- 
slides, and also the eroded matter poured 
upon it by streams from the heights. Most 
of the material that falls upon the top of 
the upper end of the glacier gradually 
works its way to the bottom. At last, with 
the other gathered material, it is pressed 
against the bottom and sides and used as a 
cutting, rasping, or grinding tool till worn 
to pebbles or powder. 

A part of the rocky material gathered is 
carried to the end of the glacier, where the 
melting of the ice unloads and releases it. 
This accumulation at the end is called the 
terminal moraine, and corresponds to the 
delta of a river. For years the bulk of the 
ice may melt away at about the same place; 
thus at this point accumulates an enor- 
354 



mous amount of debris. An advance of the 
ice may plow through this and repile it, or 
the retreat of the ice, or a changed direction 
of its flow, may pile debris elsewhere. Many 
of these terminal moraines are an array of 
broken embankments with small basin- 
like holes and smooth, level spaces. 

Many of the lakes have been filled with 
sediment, and in them and on them forests 
now flourish. The glacier lakes were slowly 
created. Most of them are being slowly filled. 
Those most favorably situated may still 
live on for thousands of years, but an ava- 
lanche may extinguish one in a single day. 
Eventually all must be filled and lost. They 
come into existence as a part of the work of 
the glacier. For a period they lie beautiful 
in the sunlight ; then they are gone forever. 

The extensive glacial records that show 
the past triumphs of the Ice King some- 
times make the mind restless, and it wants 
to know: "Will the Ice King come again? 
Will mountains of white and silent snow 
again pile upon a lifeless world?" 
355 



iout i^ational $ath^ 

4, HIGH PEAKS 

Those who go up into the clouds and 
sky on high mountains will find a variety 
of lofty and magnificent peaks in the Na- 
tional Parks. These peaks rise amid and 
above wildernesses of superb scenes, splen- 
did combinations of peaks, streams, lakes, 
passes, forests, and moorlands. 

My three favorite peaks in the United 
States are Mount Rainier, Long's Peak, 
and the Grand Teton, which is near Jack- 
son's Hole, Wyoming. 

In many respects Mount Rainier is the 
noblest mountain in the world. It is high, 
and to reach its summit is to make a jour- 
ney that requires preparation and care. 
Much ice work is necessary in order to at- 
tain the top. Once there, the climber looks 
down upon extensive landscapes of forests 
and sea, islands and rivers, and snowy 
peaks. 

Long's Peak is a rugged, vast monolith of 
granite 14,255 feet high. Usually it is al- 
356 



most entirely free of both ice and snow. It 
is a rock climb. It stands not in but im- 
mediately in front of the Continental Di- 
vide, whose near-by ruggedness is tre- 
mendously impressive. Far away one looks 
out over seas of mountains and on ocean 
plains. Standing side by side with Long's 
Peak, and of almost equal height, is Mount 
Meeker, also a rock climb that reveals 
scenes of unusual interest. 

The Yellowstone has three excellent 
mountain-top view-points: Mount Wash- 
burn, Mount Sheridan, and Electric Peak. 
One can motor to the top of Mount Wash- 
bum, and the climbs to the tops of the 
other two are not extremely difficult. 

In the Yosemite, Mount Hoffman, not 
the highest peak, but centrally located, 
commands the extraordinary scenes of the 
Park. Of the higher peaks, Mount Lyell is 
an excellent example. 

It is probable that Mount Whitney will 
become a part of the Sequoia National 
Park. It is comparatively easy of ascent 
357 



Hour i^ational ^rft^ 

and commands great views of the higher 
peaks of the Sierra. It is the highest peak 
within the bounds of the Union, being 
14,501 feet high. 

Among a wilderness of rugged mountains 
and lakes of the Glacier National Park are 
scores of peaks well worthy of the climber. 
To me Going-to-the-Sun Mountain and 
Mount Cleveland are two of the better ones. 

Exercising in the heights quickly disin- 
fects and reenergizes the system. A mental 
uplift, a broadening of the view, and a gen- 
eral lasting exhilaration come from the ef- 
fort of mountain-climbing, together with 
the intimate human association and the 
soul-stirring scenes which it brings. Climb- 
ing a worthy peak ought to be listed among 
the proudest of our yearly accomplish- 
ments. 

In "The Canoe and the Saddle" Theo- 
dore Winthrop thus translates the good tid- 
ings of the mountains: — 

Exaltation such as the presence of the sub- 
lime and solemn heights arouses, we dwellers 

358 



€fje ^cenerp in tjje ^fep 

eastward cannot have as an abiding influence. 
Other things we may have, for Nature will not 
let herself anywhere be scorned; but only 
mountains, and chiefest the giants of snow, 
can teach whatever lessons there may be in 
vaster distances and deeper depths of palpable 
ether, in lonely grandeur without desolation, 
and in the illimitable, bounded within an out- 
line. Therefore, needing all these emotions at 
their maximum, we were compelled to make 
pilgrimages back to the mountains. . . . 

Mountains have been waiting, even in an- 
cient worlds, for cycles, while mankind looked 
upon them as high, cold, dreary, crushing — 
as resorts for demons and homes of desolating 
storms. It is only lately, in the development 
of men's comprehension of nature, that moun- 
tains have been recognized as our noblest 
friends, our most exalting and inspiring com- 
rades, our grandest emblems of divine power 
and divine peace. 



XX 

JOHN MUIR 

John Muir arrived in San Francisco 
by boat from Panama in 1868. He was 
thirty years old. This was in the days of 
adventure. San Francisco Bay was alive 
with strange ships from every part of the 
globe. The city was filled with adven- 
turers. On every hand were heard exciting 
tales of colonization and wealth in South 
America, Siberia, and Australia, stories of 
fabulous fortunes made in the islands of 
the South Seas, and rumors of rich strikes 
by the "Bonanza Kings" in the mines of 
Nevada. These things did not interest 
Muir. He became the Nestor of National 
Parks. 

The second day after reaching San Fran- 
cisco, he wandered away alone into the 
wilderness. He heard Nature's bugle-call 
and was led on and on. He wandered far 
360 




JOHN MUIR AT THE FOOT OK A DOUGLAS SPRLCK IN 
MUIR WOODS 



into the flower-filled distances, threaded the 
forests, and climbed the heights where wild 
cataracts leaped and where the glaciers had 
left their story. 

For forty years he spent the most of his 
time camping and exploring and studying 
in the wilderness along the Pacific Coast, 
chiefly in the Sierra of California. He 
neither fished nor carried a gun. He fre- 
quently went hungry; many times was 
without bedding; often he was entirely 
alone for weeks. These were glorious years ! 

He rambled through parts of Nevada, 
Oregon, Washington, and British Columbia, 
and made five trips to Alaska. He also 
made visits to Australia, India, Switzer- 
land, Sweden, South America, and Africa. 
Long and intimately he associated with 
Nature in the Yosemite National Park. 

He married in 1879, and for ten years 
devoted a part of his time to business, 
amassing a fair fortune. But in each of 
these years he managed to have several 
weeks in the wilderness. 
361 



iour l^ational ^ath^ 

He had a large share in arousing the pub- 
lic interest that led to the creation of forest 
reserves. For years he splendidly led the 
movement for National Parks. His work 
and his writing glorified the scenic out- 
doors. 

In his Autobiography he says, "When I 
was a boy in Scotland I was fond of every- 
thing that was wild, and all my life I 've 
been growing fonder and fonder of wild 
places and wild creatures." In his boyhood 
Wisconsin home he was so enraptured with 
Nature that, as he says, he could hardly 
believe his senses except when he was hun- 
gry or his father was thrashing him. 

In another case he says, "Every wild 
lesson a love lesson; not whipped into us 
but charmed into us." Commenting on 
leaving college, he declares, "I was only 
leaving one university for another, the 
Wisconsin University for the University of 
the Wilderness." Stevenson wrote, "There 
should be nothing so much a man's busi- 
ness as his amusements." John Muir's 
362 



amusements occupied the major part of his 
life, and the result is an inspiring and en- 
nobling influence on the world. More than 
anything else, his work is likely immeasur- 
ably to help the human race by getting us 
outdoors. 

While ever enjoying the beauty of Na- 
ture, he was continually searching for facts. 
He had the poetic appreciation of Nature. 
He was the greatest genius that ever with 
words interpreted the outdoors. No one 
has ever written of Nature's realm with 
greater enthusiasm or charm. He once 
said, " In drying plants, botanists often dry 
themselves." He also felt that "dry words 
and dry facts will not fire hearts." Much 
that he wrote is prose poetry or is enliv- 
ened with the poetic fire of his genius. 

His writings contain a wealth of Na- 
tional Parks material, and I wish that every 
child might know of them. His books are: 
"The Mountains of California," "Our Na- 
tional Parks," "Stickeen," "My First 
Summer in the Sierra," "The Yosemite," 
363 



iout l^ational ^ath^ 

"The Story of my Boyhood and Youth," 
"Travels in Alaska," and "A Thousand- 
Mile Walk to the Gulf." 

In December, 19 14, the grandest char- 
acter in National Parks history and in na- 
ture literature vanished into that mysteri- 
ous realm into which all trails inevitably 
lead. He had rendered mankind a vast and 
heroic service. His triumphs were of the 
very greatest. They were made in times of 
peace for the eternal cause of peace. We are 
yet too close to the deeds of this magnifi- 
cent man to comprehend their helpfulness 
to humanity. His practical labors and his 
books are likely to prove the most influen- 
tial force in this century for the profitable 
use of leisure hours. 

He has written the great drama of the 
outdoors. On Nature's scenic stage he gave 
the wild life local habitation and character 
— did with the wild folk what Shakespeare 
did with man. He puts the woods in story, 
and in his story you are in the wilderness. 
His prose poems illuminate the forest, the 
364 



storm, and all the fields of life. He has set 
Pan's melody to words. He sings of sun- 
tipped peaks and gloomy cafions, flowery- 
fields and wooded wilds. He has immor- 
talized the Big Trees. His memory is des- 
tined to be ever associated with the silent 
places, with the bird-songs, with wild flow- 
ers, with the great glaciers, with snowy 
peaks, with dark forests, with white cas- 
cades that leap in glory, with sunlight and 
shadow, with the splendid National Parks, 
and with every song that Nature sings in 
the wild gardens of the world. 



XXI 

NATIONAL PARKS THE SCHOOL 
OF NATURE 

Why not each year send thousands 
of school-children through the National 
Parks? Mother Nature is the teacher of 
teachers, these Parks the greatest of schools 
and playgrounds. No other school is likely 
so to inspire children, so to give them vi- 
sion and fire their imagination. Surely the 
children ought to have this extraordinary 
opportunity. 

The percentage of children aroused and 
started to greatness by schools of prison- 
like policy is small indeed. The proper 
place for at least a part of every child's 
schooling is the great outdoors. In our great 
National Parks we have an unrivaled out- 
door school that is always open; in it is a 
library, a museum, a zoological garden, and 
a type of the wilderness frontier. In this 
366 



€l)e ^cjool of l^ature 

school-children are brought into contact 
with actual things, and become personally 
acquainted with useful facts, instead of 
merely reading about them. No better 
surroundings can be devised for develop- 
ing common sense. 

Learning under such conditions is de- 
lightful, yet it is discipline — a discipline 
that develops, not mere drudgery that dis- 
courages. Education cannot be separated 
from enjoyment. "Let us live for our chil- 
dren," said Froebel, the early exponent of 
the school of Nature. It is doubtful if we 
could do more for our young folk, for the 
nation, and for humanity than to have 
ample National Parks and opportunities 
for the children to enjoy them. 

If each boy or girl — or any traveler — 
were to follow a particular line of nature- 
study during vacations, and give most of 
his time to one species of tree, flower, bird, 
or to the characteristic scenic feature of the 
region visited, each would return with a 
new and pleasant resource, and would have 
367 



four i^ational ^arft^ 

something definite and worth while to re- 
port to his friends. 

One of the greatest inheritances of each 
individual is imagination. The child in- 
stinctively believes in fairies. Unfortu- 
nately, the imagination too often is stifled 
and extinguished in childhood. It is imag- 
ination that "bodies forth the forms of 
things unknown," and makes all objects 
interesting. It lights the path of education 
and throws changing color and romance 
over every act and scene in life. It gives a 
magic spell to existence. This matchless 
torch may be set blazing by a visit to the 
wonderland of a National Park where 
wilderness is king — where the fairies live. 

Often, the chief incentive that starts a 
child toward the acquiring of an education 
is interest in this fairyland of Nature. In- 
terest is the highroad to education. In- 
terest the mind and it will grow like a gar- 
den. The National Parks have, through 
this fact, an educational value which en- 
titles them to be ranked among the strong- 
368 



€()e ^cftool of l^ature 

est potential forces of our pedagogical 
system. 

I have never known any one who had en- 
joyed the pleasure that comes from even a 
little knowledge of natural history to sink 
into the empty-headed pastime of trying to 
see crude forms in Nature's story-book. 
Usually, an individual given to this, when 
on an outing, is a bore to his companions. 
I simply cannot understand how people 
find pleasure in trying to discover animal 
forms, or various zoological figures, in the 
geological formations of the mountains, 
while the beholders are in the midst of a 
thousand objects of real interest. Such an 
exercise may be called humbug imagina- 
tion. 

Playing in the outdoors — especially 
when there is intimate association with 
birds and flowers, trees and waterfalls, 
mountains and storms — is one of the best 
ways of training the senses. The study of 
geology and glaciology, of the manners and 
customs of the beaver and the bear, gives 
369 



iour i^ational ^arft^ 

physical and mental and spiritual develop- 
ment of the best possible kind. The out- 
doors gives originality and individuality, 
and develops that master quality called 
the creative faculty, with which usually are 
found associated courage and wholesome 
self-reliance. 

Charles W. Eliot, President Emeritus of 
Harvard University, says : — 

The best part of all human knowledge has 
come by exact and studied observation made 
through the senses of sight, hearing, taste, 
smell, and touch. The most important part of 
education has always been the training of the 
senses through which that best part of knowl- 
edge comes. This training has two precious 
results in the individual besides the faculty of 
accurate observation — one the acquisition 
of some sort of skill, the other the habit of 
careful reflection and measured reasoning 
which results in precise statement and record. 

The pioneer men and women, and the 
children of pioneers, had few books, but 
they were wide-awake people and made ex- 
cellent neighbors. Scores of great men and 
women with character as well as intelli- 
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€6e ^cljool of l^aturc 

gence have known little of books, but they 
had the ability to think — they had in- 
dividuality. They had courage and kind- 
ness. 

Mother Nature is ever ready to train the 
growing child. By using our wonderful Na- 
tional Parks for schools, we may give the 
boys and girls of to-day even better nature 
training than the pioneers received from 
their environment. Huxley says, "Knowl- 
edge gained at second hand from books or 
hearsay is infinitely inferior in quality to 
knowledge gained at first hand by direct 
observation and experience with Nature." 

Many of the noblest pages of history were 
made by grand men and women whom Na- 
ture inspired. A poet says that all grand 
and heroic deeds were conceived in the open 
air. A nation composed of park-using peo- 
ple is prepared for the emergencies of war 
and also for the finer achievements of 
peace. Park life will keep the nation young. 

Some of our thoughtful people are say- 
ing, "Better playgrounds without schools 
371 



four l^ational garfe^ 

than schools without playgrounds." The 
Parks used as a part of the school system 
should develop, enrich, and equip with 
happy, helpful material the growing mind 
of man. 

In " The Training of the Human Plant," 
Luther Burbank says : — 

Any form of education which leaves one less 
able to meet every-day emergencies and occur- 
rences is unbalanced and vicious, and will lead 
any people to destruction. 

Every child should have mud pies, grass- 
hoppers, waterbugs, tadpoles, frogs, mud- 
turtles, elderberries, wild strawberries, acorns, 
chestnuts, trees to climb, brooks to wade in, 
water-lilies, woodchucks, bats, bees, butter- 
flies, various animals to pet, hayfields, pine- 
cones, rocks to roll, sand, snakes, huckleber- 
ries, and hornets ; and any child who has been 
deprived of these has been deprived of the best 
part of his education. 

By being well acquainted with all these they 
come into most intimate harmony with na- 
ture, whose lessons are, of course, natural and 
wholesome. 

A fragrant beehive or a plump, healthy 
hornet's nest in good running order often be- 
come object lessons of some importance. The 

37^ 



€J)e ^cfjool of l^ature 

inhabitants can give the child pointed lessons 
in punctuation, as well as caution and some 
of the limitations as well as the grand possi- 
bilities of life; and by even a brief experience 
with a good patch of healthy nettles, the same 
lesson will be still further impressed upon 
them. And thus by each new experience with 
homely natural objects the child learns self- 
respect and also to respect the objects and 
forces which must be met. 



The wild gardens of Nature are the best 
kindergartens. The child who breathes the 
pure air among the pines, and plays among 
the birds and flowers, has the greatest of 
advantages. The child stirred with ideal 
hopes to-day will create nobly to-morrow. 
Children from Nature's Book and School 
stand highest in the examinations of life 
and carry life's richest treasures: health, 
individuality, sincerity, wholesome self- 
reliance, and efficiency. Touched with na- 
ture, they are natural and, like Tiny Tim, 
they love everybody. Nature wins the 
heart of childhood. Children playing and 
dreaming in outdoor fairylands make one of 
373 



four |I5ational ^arfe^ 

the sweetest, dearest stories lived or learned 
on Nature's loving breast. 

One of the best lessons gained from the 
wholesome atmosphere of the Parks is the 
duty of preserving natural beauties. We 
need Parks to prevent the extermination of 
our friends the wild flowers. A few years 
ago the following simple appeal for the 
wild flowers was written for me by Maud 
Gardner Odel : — 

What will you with our bodies, 

Rude Ravishers of flowers, 
Despoiler of our loveliness 

To please your idle hours? 
The life you pluck so gayly 

Will perish in a day; 
The form you praise so lightly, 

Turn swiftly to decay; 
But leave us on our hillside 
( With wind and bird and bee, 
Insure us our inheritance 

Of immortality, — 
Your sons shall know our fragrance, 

Your daughters feel our charm. 
Oh, Friend of Future Ages, 

Do not the Wild Flowers harm ! 
Columbine, 
Gentian, 
Iris, and Others. 

374 



€fje ^cjjooi of l^ature 

Photographs made in National Parks 
could be used in homes, schools, hotels, 
etc. ; they might well displace many of the 
pictures now in use. These photographs 
should embrace the grander scenes and the 
lovelier landscapes. Among the subjects 
handled would be the Big Trees, Yellow- 
stone Falls, Yosemite Falls, the Grand 
Canon, wild flowers and glaciers on Mount 
Rainier, the lakes in Glacier National Park, 
timber-line in the Rocky Mountain Na- 
tional Park, Crater Lake, and the ruins in 
the Mesa Verde. Among the animals pic- 
tured would be the grizzly bear, the moun- 
tain sheep, the mountain goat, the antelope, 
and the beaver; among the birds, the 
water-ouzel, the solitaire, the canon wren, 
the eagle, the hummingbird, and the 
ptarmigan. 

We need to know our country. Purpose- 
ful travel is educational. Our National 
Parks should stimulate travel, and a trip 
to them is an educational advantage to 
any one making it. One can hardly be 
375 



Hour i^ational ^axh^ 

especially interested in any single feature 
of these Parks without also becoming ac- 
quainted with others. 

Each year every city should honor itself 
by sending a number of individuals to 
study one or more of these Parks. Each 
school should send its brightest pupil; 
chambers of commerce might send repre- 
sentatives; women's clubs, D.A.R. organ- 
izations, and even the Y.M.C.A. and 
Y.W.C.A. might well be represented in 
such a delegation. This custom would give 
us nation-wide knowledge and sympathy. 

It appears impossible to exaggerate the 
importance of knowing our wilderness 
lands — the frontier of yesterday. 

During all the years — the long centu- 
ries between cave and cottage — our good 
ancestors ever traveled among Nature's 
inspiring pictured scenes. With interest 
and with awe they watched the silent 
movements of the clouds across the sky; 
they heard with speechless wonder the 
mysterious echo that lived and mimicked 
376 



€f)e ^cftool of l^ature 

in the viewless air; they puzzled over the 
strange, invisible wind that shook the ex- 
cited trees and whispered in the rustling 
grass. They saw the wondrous sunrise; the 
light of day; the darkness; the fireflies in 
the forest ; the lonely, changing moon. They 
heard the echoing crash of thunder. Light- 
ning, — the branched golden river in the 
cloud mountains of the sky, — the clouds 
themselves, and the silken rainbow, were 
woven into beautiful myths. Thus, through 
changing seasons and the passing years, 
these splendid facts and fancies in Mother 
Nature's school fired the imagination with 
poetic wonder-tales and built the brain for 
our restless, triumphant race. The path- 
way to the Heroic Age lies out with Na- 
ture. 



XXII 

WHY WE NEED NATIONAL PARKS 

The Piute Indians have a legend which 
says that just at the close of creation the 
woman was consulted. She at once called 
into existence the birds, the flowers, and 
the trees. That is the kind of a woman 
with whom to start a world. We still need 
park places full of hope and beauty, with 
birds, flowers, and trees, that with their 
help we may live long and happily and 
harmoniously upon a beautiful world. 

Scenic parts of this poetic and primeval 
world — parts rich in loveliness and gran- 
deur — are saved for us in our National 
Parks. The National Parks and Monu- 
ments are filled with Nature's masterpieces, 
and contain splendid scenic and scientific 
features not elsewhere to be seen. The trav- 
eler might spend a lifetime in them with- 
out exhausting even their best attractions. 
378 



WhP toe il^eeti i^ational $ath^ 

A National Park is an island of safety in 
this riotous world. Splendid forests, the 
waterfalls that leap in glory, the wild 
flowers that charm and illuminate the 
earth, the wild sheep of the sky-line crags, 
and the beauty of the birds, all have places 
of refuge which parks provide. 

A National Park is a fountain of life. It 
is a matchless potential factor for good in 
national life. It holds within its magic 
realm benefits that are health-giving, edu- 
cational, economic; that further efficiency 
and ethical relations, and are inspirational. 
Every one needs to play, and to play out 
of doors. Without parks and outdoor life 
all that is best in civilization will be smoth- 
ered. To save ourselves, to prevent our 
perishing, to enable us to live at our best 
and happiest, parks are necessary. With- 
in National Parks is room — glorious room 
— room in which to find ourselves, in 
which to think and hope, to dream and 
plan, to rest and resolve. 

Nature, like our best friends, will have 
379 



four l^ational $ath^ 

us do our best. King Lear led the typical 
purposeless indoor life. He was surrounded 
with pomp and senseless ceremony. He was 
in the midst of enemies of sincerity and in- 
dividuality. He decayed. He was turned 
outdoors. Across the stormy moor he wan- 
dered, followed by his faithful Fool. At the 
door of the hovel he hesitated. Urged by 
the Fool, he agreed to take shelter inside. 
In a brief time with Nature on the moor he 
had become acquainted with himself and 
had developed universal sympathy. Stand- 
ing in the storm at the entrance to the 
hovel, he uttered this noble cry of compas- 
sion : — 

"Poor naked wretches, wheresoe'er you are, 
That bide the pelting of this pitiless storm, 
How shall your houseless heads and unfed sides, 
Your loop'd and window'd raggedness, defend you 
From seasons such as these?" 

National Parks provide climate for 
everybody and scenery for all. If we play 
in the scenes where fairies live, for us all 
will be right with the world. Parks give 
purpose, noble purpose, to life. They are 
380 



^l)P toe l^eeti l^ational ^arft^ 

the " Never-Never-Land " in which we 
shall ever be growing, but never grow up. 

The great peaks with age-old ice and 
snow, the mountain-high waterfalls that 
rush and roar, the waveless lakes that show 
the cloud and the blue, the waves of wind 
that shake the steadfast trees, the songs of 
birds that ring through the wilderness, the 
many-colored flowers and glorious sunsets 
— these waken and inspire us. We are 
glad to be living, and life's duties are done 
with happiest hands. We need these en- 
chanted places. I am thankful to the pio- 
neers who saw the wilderness scenes and 
were thoughtful enough to save the Na- 
tional Parks for us. 

Robert Louis Stevenson says, "A man's 
most serious business is his amusements"; 
and some one else has said : — 

We need more plain pleasures, for recreation 
rightly used is a resource for the common pur- 
poses of daily life that is entitled to rank with 
education, with art, with friendship. It is one 
of the means ordained for the promotion of 
health and cheerfulness and morality. Vice 
381 



four l^ational ^arh^ef 

must be fought by welfare, not restraint ; and 
society is not safe until to-day's pleasures are 
stronger than its temptations. Amusement 
is stronger than vice and can strangle the lust 
of it. Not only does morality thus rest back 
on recreation, but so does efficiency. One half 
of efficiency and happiness depends upon 
vitality, and vitality depends largely upon 
recreation, especially the simple recreation 
of the open air. 

How and where people play determines 
the character of individuals and the des- 
tiny of their country. Success in life-work 
depends upon play and relaxation. Blue 
Monday did not originate outdoors. It is 
doubtful if any other influence produces so 
many good habits as a park. Parks keep 
a nation hopeful and young. 

The better and stronger nation of the 
future will be a park-using nation. Many 
wrecked nations have tried to get along 
without outdoor parks and recreation- 
places. It is but little less than folly to 
spend millions on forts and warships, on 
prisons and hospitals, instead of giving 
382 



people the opportunity to develop and rest 
in the sane outdoors. 

The population of the United States now 
numbers a hundred millions and is growing 
with amazing rapidity. The harassing, ex- 
acting life of to-day makes outdoor life 
more important than ever before. Even in 
the country, more play places are needed. 
Most of the parklike places in the country 
have fallen into private hands to the ex- 
clusion of the public, but in every State in 
the Union a number of scenic places are 
available. These might well be secured by 
the public and made into city and county, 
state and national parks. 

The intensity of love for native land 
depends chiefly upon the loveliness of its 
landscapes — upon its scenery. The great 
scenic places of a land should be owned by 
the public and often seen by the public. 
We cannot love an ugly country. Beauty 
satisfies the world's great longing. Hatred 
and prejudice may be taught, but the love 
of land must be inspired — and inspired 
383 



iour l^ational ^atk$ 

by the scenic loveliness of that land. "The 
beautiful is as useful as the useful." Some 
time a Secretary of Parks and Recreation 
may be the most honored member of the 
President's Cabinet. 

Develop National Parks, and there is no 
danger that the people will fail to use them. 
They will help us to build a vast travel in- 
dustry. In each of the years immediately 
preceding the European war, more than 
half a million Americans went to Europe. 
Each individual spent not less than a thou- 
sand dollars, a total of five hundred million 
dollars — this exclusive of large sums spent 
for works of art, jewelry, and clothing. 
Why should not such vast expenditures be 
made in our own country instead of in for- 
eign lands? Scenery is an asset, and parks, 
multiplied and properly managed, would 
greatly help to keep our money at home as 
well as to educate and refine our people. 

The existing National Parks — and there 
will be others — are a vast undeveloped 
resource of enormous potential value. They 
384 



are a golden field that will grow the more 
with reaping ! The Parks have the power to 
change and better the habits of a nation. 
They may arouse in us the desire to spend 
most of our spare time, and lead to the 
fashion of holding most of our social gather- 
ings, outdoors. 

Lack of national unity is perilous. A na- 
tion divided against itself is not strong. 
Internal strife sometimes is worse than 
foreign war. The people of the United 
States are united in name, but are they do- 
ing good team-work? The mingling of peo- 
ple from all quarters in their own great 
National Parks means friendly union. The 
Westerner ought to know the Easterner; 
the Easterner should be acquainted with 
the Westerner, and he ought also to see the 
magnificent distances in the West. Travel 
to National Parks will promote such ac- 
quaintance in the happiest circumstances. 
Greatly it would help the general welfare 
of the nation if the citizens of the United 
States were better acquainted with their 
385 



iour l^ational ^arh^ 

own country, its resources, its people, and 
its problems. The debates on various pub- 
lic measures in Congress show a lack of 
national unity that arises from a lack of 
national information. A people united is 
a nation well prepared. 

I sometimes think that getting really ac- 
quainted with some person, or with some 
fact, is a great event. There is nothing 
like acquaintance for promoting friendship, 
sympathy, and cooperation. To bring the 
capitalist and the laborer — all classes — 
together in the Park's august scenes, is 
bound to encourage acquaintance and to 
prevent misunderstandings. All this means 
unity, friendship, and will keep war drums 
in the background. 

He who feels the spell of the wild, the 
rhythmic melody of falling water, the 
echoes among the crags, the bird-songs, the 
wind in the pines, and the endless beat of 
wave upon the shore, is in tune with the 
universe. And he will know what human 
brotherhood means; will understand the 
386 



heart of the democratic poet who declares, 
"A man's a man for a* that." 

In Nature's ennobling and boundless 
scenes, the hateful boundary-lines and the 
forts and flags and prejudices of nations 
are forgotten. Nature is universal. She 
hoists no flags of hatred. Wood-notes wild 
contain no barbaric strains of war. The 
supreme triumph of parks is humanity. 
And as I have said elsewhere, some time it 
may be that an immortal pine will be the 
flag of a united and peaceful world. 

John Muir felt that National Parks were 
the glory of the country and should make 
this country the glory of the earth. I feel 
certain that if Nature were to speak she 
would say, "Make National and State 
Parks of your best wild gardens, and with 
these I will develop greater men and 
women." 



XXIII 
THE TRAIL 

National Parks will Insure the per- 
petuation of the primitive and poetic path- 
way, the Trail. 

The trail is as old as the hills. In every 
wild comer of the world it is the dim roman- 
tic highway through "No Man's Land." 
Ever intimate with the forest and stream, 
this adventurous and primitive way has 
an endless variety. Its scenes shift and its 
vistas change. It has the aroma of the 
wilderness. It always leads to a definite 
place over a crooked and alluring way. 
With eager haste it may go straight to some 
poetic point, but usually it winds with many 
a delightful delay. I think of it as watching 
the white cascades, listening to the echoes, 
delaying by the lonely shore, spending 
hours in the forest primeval, leisurely 
crossing the grassy, sun-filled glades, skirt- 
388 



€{je €rail 

ing the time-stained crags and vanishing 
into the heights, looking down into the 
valley, and tarrying where artists would 
linger. Somewhere it leads to a lake. 

At the primitive beaver house it takes a 
look as it crosses the expanded brook upon 
the beaver dam. A fallen tree gives it a 
way across the river. In a gorge it hears the 
ouzel from the rocks pour forth his melody 
— joyous notes of happy, liquid song. 

It crosses a moraine to examine the use- 
ful debris that the Ice King formed while 
he was sculpturing the mountains and giv- 
ing lines to the landscape. Clouds bound 
for definite ports in the trailless sky adorn 
its realm with floating shadows. It passes 
a picturesque old landmark, a pine of a 
thousand years. In this one spot the ancient 
pine has stood, an observing spectator, 
while the seasons and the centuries flowed 
along. His autobiography is rich in weather 
lore, full of adventures, and filled with 
thrilling escapes from fires, lightning, and 
landslides. During his thousand years, 
389 



four l^ational ^arh^ 

strange travelers and processions have 
passed along. He often saw victor and 
victim and the endless drama of the wil- 
derness. 

The trail is followed by wild life, and 
along it the wild flowers fill the wild gar- 
dens. It has the spirit of the primal out- 
doors. It extends away ever to the golden 
age. Many a night this way across the 
earth is as thick with fireflies as the great 
Milky Way across the sky with stars. The 
moon, the white aspens, and the dark 
spruces pile it with romantic shades, and 
on a sunny day it is often touched by the 
fleeting shadow of an eagle in the sky. 

This old acquaintance would have you 
carry your own pack, and, like your best 
friend, expects your best on every occasion. 
The trail compels you to know yourself and 
to be yourself, and puts you in harmony 
with the universe. It makes you glad to be 
living. It gives health, hope, and courage, 
and it extends that touch of nature which 
tends to make you kind. This heroic way 
390 



€f)e €rail 

conducted our ancestors across the ages. 
It should be preserved. It has for us the 
inspiration of the ages. 

A dim trail led our wandering primeval 
ancestors out from the twilight. It was a 
trail ever winding, shadowy, and broken, 
but ever under the open sky and ever from 
"yesterday's seven thousand years." It 
had its beginning in the walks of beasts that 
prowled the solemn primeval forests. Over 
it our half-lost ancestors painfully ad- 
vanced. A fallen tree was their first bridge 
and a floating log their first boat. They 
wondered at the strange alternating day 
and night at which we still wonder. With 
joy they watched the shining dawn, and 
with fear and dread they saw the dusk of 
dying day. They learned the endless pro- 
cession of seasons. The mysterious move- 
ments of wind and water aroused their 
curiosity, and with childlike interest they 
followed the soft and silent movements of 
the clouds. The wide and starry sky ap- 
pealed strangely, strongly, to their imagi- 
391 



Hour l^ational ^arfe^ 

nation, and in this luminous field of space 
their fancy found a local habitation and a 
name for the thousand earthly fears and 
factors of their lives. They dared the 
prairie, climbed the hills, but long kept 
close to the forest. 

After hard and fearful ages — after "a 
million years and a day" — the camp-fire 
came at last. This fragment of the Im- 
mortal Sun conquered the cold and the 
night, and misery and dread gave way to 
comfort and hope. No more the aspen 
trembled. It became a dancing youth, 
while the strange, invisible echo was a 
merry hiding child. The fireflies changed to 
fairies, and Pan commenced to pipe the 
elemental melody of the wild. 

Nature ever showed her pictures and in- 
terested her children in fairylands. Winter, 
cold and leafless; spring, full of song and 
promise; the generous wealth of summer; 
and autumn with its harvest and color, 
came and disappeared, and came again 
through all the mysterious years. Light- 
392 



€l^e €tsd\ 

ning, the echo, with roar and whisper of the 
viewless air, the white and lonely moon, the 
strange eclipse, the brilliant and fleeting 
rainbow, — Nature's irised silken banner, — 
the mystery of death, these seeds of thought 
bloomed into the fanciful, beautiful myths 
and legends that we know. 

Once, like a web of joy, trails overspread 
all the wild gardens of the earth. The long 
trail is gone, and most others are cut to 
pieces and ruined. The few broken rem- 
nants are but little used. 

The traveler who forgets or loses the 
trail will lose his way, or miss the best of 
life. The trail is the directest approach to 
the fountain of life, and this immortal way 
delays age and commands youth to linger. 
While you delay along the trail. Father 
Time pauses to lean upon his scythe. The 
trail wanders away from the fever and the 
fret, and leads to where the Red Gods call. 
This wonderful way must not be buried 
and forgotten. 



APPENDIX 



APPENDIX 
A 

ACT OF DEDICATION OF 
THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 

An Act to set apart a Certain Tract of Land 

LYING near the HEADWATERS OF THE YEL- 
LOWSTONE River as a Public Park. 

Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Repre- 
sentatives of the United States of America in Con- 
gress assembled, — That the tract of land in the 
Territories of Montana and Wyoming lying near 
the headwaters of the Yellowstone River and de- 
scribed as follows, to-wit: Commencing at the 
junction of Gardiner's River with the Yellowstone 
River and running east to the meridian, passing 
ten miles to the eastward of the most eastern point 
of Yellowstone Lake; thence south along the said 
meridian to the parallel of latitude, passing ten 
miles south of the most southern point of Yellow- 
stone Lake; thence west along said parallel to the 
meridian, passing fifteen miles west of the most 
western point of Madison Lake; thence north 
along said meridian to the latitude of the junction 
of the Yellowstone and Gardiner's Rivers; thence 
east to the place of beginning, is hereby reserved 
and drawn from settlement, occupancy, or sale 

397 



under the laws of the United States, and dedicated 
and set apart as a pubHc park or pleasuring ground 
for the benefit and enjoyment of the people ; and all 
persons who shall locate, or settle upon, or occupy 
the same or any part thereof, except as hereinafter 
provided, shall be considered trespassers and re- 
moved therefrom. 

Sec. 2. That said public park shall be under the 
exclusive control of the Secretary of the Interior, 
whose duty it shall be, as soon as practicable, to 
make and publish such rules and regulations as he 
may deem necessary or proper for the care and 
management of the same. Such regulations shall 
provide for the preservation from injury or spolia- 
tion of all timber, mineral deposits, natural curi- 
osities or wonders within said park, and their re- 
tention in their natural condition. 

The Secretary may, in his discretion, grant 
leases for building purposes, for terms not exceed- 
ing ten years, of small parcels of ground, at such 
places in said park as shall require the erection of 
buildings for the accommodation of visitors; all of 
the proceeds of said leases, and all other revenue 
that may be derived from any source connected 
with said park, to be expended under his direction 
in the management of the same and the construc- 
tion of roads and bridle-paths, and shall provide 
against the wanton destruction of fish and game 
found within said park and against their capture or 
destruction for the purpose of merchandise or 
profit. He shall also cause all persons trespassing 
upon the same after the passage of this act to be 
removed therefrom, and generally shall be author- 

398 



ized to take all such measures as shall be necessary 
or proper to fully carry out the objects and pur- 
poses of this act. 

Approved March i, 1872. 
Signed by: 

James G. Blaine, Speaker of the House. 

Schuyler Colfax, Vice-President of the 

United States and President of the 

Senate. 

Ulysses S. Grant, President of the United 

States. 



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BIBLIOGRAPHY 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 

National Park Publications issued by the 
Department of the Interior 

(To be had from the Superintendent of Documents, Gov- 
ernment Printing Office, Washington, D. C.) 

Geological History of the Yellowstone National 
Park Arnold Hague 

Geysers Walter Harvey Weed 

Geological History of Crater Lake, Oregon 

Joseph S. Diller 

Some Lakes of Glacier National Park M. J. Elrod 

Sketch of Yosemite National Park and an ac- 
count of the origin of the Yosemite and Hetch 
Hetchy Valleys F. E. Matthes 

Origin of the Scenic Features of the Glacier 
National Park Marius R. Campbell 

The Secret of the Big Trees Ellsworth Huntington 

Glaciers of Glacier National Park 

William C. Alden 

The Glacier National Park; A Popular Guide to 
its Geology and Scenery Marius R. Campbell 

Excavation and Repair of Sun Temple, Mesa 
Verde National Park J. Walter Fewkes 

Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone National Park 

F. H. KnowUon 

Mount Rainier and its Glaciers F. E. Matthes 

Forests of Mount Rainier National Park 

G. F. Allen 



Features of the Flora of Mount Rainier National 
Park J. B. Flett 

Forests of Yosemite, Sequoia and General Grant 
National Parks C. L. Hill 

Forests of Crater Lake National Park 

/. F. Pernot 

The National Park Service, Interior Depart- 
ment, is constantly issuing special publications 
that deal with particular phases of one or more 
National Parks. A bibliography may be had from 
the Department of the Interior giving a pretty 
complete list of all books, pamphlets, and maga- 
zine articles which contain information concerning 
any one or all National Parks. There are also a 
number of government publications which touch 
upon special phases of plant and animal life and 
geology. All issues of the Sierra Club Bulletin, 
Mazama, and The Mountaineer, contain more or 
less interesting matter that pertains to one or 
more National Parks. 

Books Concerning Many National Parks 

Nature and Science on the Pacific Coast 

Wild Animals at Home E. T. Seton 

Our National Parks John Muir 

Western Wild Flowers Margaret Armstrong 

Flora of Colorado Rydberg 

Mountain Wild Flowers of America 

Julia Henshaw 
Rocky Mountain Wild Flowers Clements 

Handbook of Birds of Western United States 

Florence Merriam Bailey 

418 



Wild Animals at Home E. T. Seton 

The Mammals of Colorado Warren 

The Adventures of James C. Adams Hittel 

In Beaver World Mills 

Manual of the Trees of North America Sargent 
Field-Days in California Torrey 

Trees of California Jepson 

Three Wonderlands of the American West 

Thomas D. Murphy 

Books Concerning the Yellowstone 
National Park 

The Yellowstone National Park 

Gen. H. M. Chittenden 

Catalogue of the Flora of Montana and the Yel- 
lowstone National Park. Memoirs of the New 
York Botanical Garden, vol. I Rydherg 

Our National Recreation Parks Nicholas Senn 

Southern California, Grand Canyon of the Col- 
orado River, Yellowstone National Park. Lec- 
tures, vol. lo John L. Stoddard 

U. S. Geological Survey, Monograph 32, part 2, 
Descriptive Geology Petrography, and Pale- 
ontology of the Yellowstone National Park. 

Books Concerning the Rocky Mountain 
National Park 

A Lady's Life in the Rocky Mountains Bird 

Wild Life on the Rockies Mills 

The Spell of the Rockies Mills 

In Beaver World Mills 

The Story of Estes Park Mills 

Rocky Mountain Wonderland Mills 
419 



2B>ibUo5rapf)p 



Books Concerning the Mesa Verde 
National Park 

Cliff Dwellers of Mesa Verde G. Nordenskiold 
The Land of the Cliff Dwellers Chapin 

Government publications : 

Antiquities of Mesa Verde National Park, Bul- 
letin Nos. 41 and 51, together with Excava- 
tions and Repair of Sun Temple. 

Books Concerning the Glacier National 
Park 

The Ascent of Chief Mountain, in Hunting in 
Many Lands, edited by Theodore Roosevelt and 
George B. Grinnell. Henry L. Stimson 

Blackfeet Tales of Glacier National Park SchuUz 

Books Concerning Yosemite National 
Park 

Indians of the Yosemite Valley Galen Clark 

In the Heart of the Sierras Hutchins 

Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada 

Clarence King 
The Yosemite John Muir 

My First Summer in the Sierras John Muir 

Three Wonderlands of the American West 

Thomas D. Murphy 
A Yosemite Flora Hall 

Books Concerning Mount Rainier 
National Park 

The Mountain that was God Williams 

Mount Rainier Meany 

420 



Bibliography of the Dominion National 
Parks of Canada 

Through the Heart of the Canadian Rockies 

Frank Yeigh 
Canada's West and Farther West Frank Carrel 
The Fair Dominion R. E. Vernede 

The New Garden of Canada F. A. Talbot 

Among the Canadian Alps 

Lawrence J. Burpee, F.R.G.S. 
Climbs and Explorations in the Canadian Rockies 

Norman Collie, F.R.S. 
The Canadian Rockies Prof. A. P. Coleman 

In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies 

Sir James Outram 

Among the Selkirk Glaciers W. S. Green 

The Selkirk Range A. 0. Wheeler, F.R.G.S. 

The Selkirk Mountains; A Guide for Mountain 

Climbers A. O. Wheeler, F.R.G.S. 

Published by the Dominion Parks 
Branch, Department of Interior, Ottawa 

Glaciers of the Rockies and the Selkirks 

Prof. A. P. Coleman, F.R.G.S. 
Handbook to the Rocky Mountains Park Museum 
Harlan I. Smith, Geological Survey, Ottawa 
Geology of the Canadian National Parks 

Charles Camsell, Geological Survey, Ottawa 
Nakimu Caves 

Fish and Their Habitat in the Rocky Mountains 
Park. 



GUIDE TO THE NATIONAL PARKS 

BY 
LAURENCE F. SCHMECKEBIER 



Introduction 

The National Parks of the United States are in process 
of great development as regards the building of roads and 
trails and the operation of hotels and camps. It is likely 
that from year to year additional trips will be scheduled 
and new camps established. The rates given are from the 
latest data available and may be considered stable, al- 
though they are likely to vary slightly from year to year 
in sympathy with general fluctuations in prices. 

Railway rates are given for side trips to all the Parks 
from the main transcontinental lines, and through rates 
are given to the important Parks from the principal gate- 
ways. The rates are the latest ones in effect and are 
quoted in order to give the reader a general idea of the 
cost. The latest rates and combinations of tours may be 
obtained at any coupon ticket office or from the passenger 
representatives of the roads tributary to the Parks. There 
is given on pages 427-31 a schedule showing the cost of 
side trips on the regular transcontinental tours. 

Railroads to the National Parks and the Grand Canon 

Yellowstone Park: Northern Pacific to Gardiner, 
Montana; Oregon Short Line to Yellowstone, Mon- 
tana : Chicago, Burlington & Quincy to Cody, Wyoming. 

YosEMiTE Park: Yosemite Valley to El Portal, California. 

Sequoia Park: Southern Pacific or Atchison, Topeka & 
Santa F6 to Visalia, California. 

General Grant Park: Southern Pacific to Sanger, 
California. 

Mount Rainier Park: Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul 
to Ashford, Washington. 



<0uiti0 to tlje i^ational ^arftjf 

Crater Lake Park: Southern Pacific to Medford or 
Kirk, Oregon. 

Glacier Park: Great Northern to Glacier Park or Bel- 
ton, Montana. 

Mesa Verde Park: Denver & Rio Grande to Mancos, 
Colorado. 

Rocky Mountain Park: Union Pacific to Fort Collins or 
Greeley, Colorado; Colorado & Southern to Boulder, 
Loveland, Longmont, or Fort Collins, Colorado; Chi- 
cago, Burlington & Quincy to Longmont or Lyons, 
Colorado; Denver & Salt Lake to Granby, Colorado. 

Grand Canon: Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe to Grand 
Canon, Arizona. 

Lassen Volcanic Park: Southern Pacific to Red Bluff or 
Westwood, California; Western Pacific to Keddie, 
California. 

Hawaii Park: Steamer service from Honolulu, Hawaii. 

Mount McKinley Park: No railroad connection until 
government railroad across Alaska is completed. 

Hot Springs Reservation: Chicago, Rock Island & 
Pacific; St. Louis Iron Mountain & Southern; and 
Memphis, Dallas & Gulf to Hot Springs, Arkansas. 

Casa Grande Ruin: Southern Pacific to Florence or 
Casa Grande, Arizona. 

Wind Cave Park: Chicago & Northwestern or Chicago, 
Burlington & Quincy to Hot Springs, South Dakota. 

Platt Park: Atchison, Topeka & Santa F6 or St. Louis 
& San Francisco to Sulphur, Oklahoma. 

Sully's Hill Park: Great Northern to Devil's Lake, 
North Dakota. 

Railroads to Canadian Parks 

Rocb:y Mountains Park: Canadian Pacific to Banff or 
Laggan, Alberta. 

YoHO Park: Canadian Pacific to Field, British Co- 
lumbia. 

426 



3Fntrobuction 

Glacier Park: Canadian Pacific to Glacier, British 
Columbia. 

Jasper Park: Grand Trunk Pacific or Canadian North- 
ern to Jasper, Alberta. 

Revelstoke Park: Canadian Pacific to Revelstoke, 
British Columbia. 

Waterton Lakes Park: Canadian Pacific to McLeod 
or Pincher Creek, Alberta. 

Buffalo Park: Grand Trunk Pacific to Wainwright, 
Alberta. 

Elk Island Park : Canadian Pacific to Lamont, Alberta. 

St. Lawrence Islands Park: New York Central to 
Clayton, New York; Grand Trunk to Kingston, On- 
tario. 

Fort Howe Park: Canadian Pacific to St. John, New 
Brunswick. 

Cost of Side Trips on Trans-Continental Tours 

Route A. Principal National Parks : — 

To Seattle or Tacoma via Great Northern, Northern 
Pacific, or Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul; to Portland 
via Northern Pacific, Great Northern, or Oregon & 
Washington Railroad & Navigation Company; to San 
Francisco via Southern Pacific; to Ogden via Southern 
Pacific or Western Pacific; to Denver via Union Pa- 
cific or Denver & Rio Grande; any road to starting- 
point. Round trip from Chicago, $90. Round trip 
from St. Louis, $87.50. Round trip from Kansas City, 
$89.57. 

Route B. Principal National Parks and the 
Grand Canon of the Colorado: — 

To Seattle or Tacoma via Great Northern, North- 
ern Pacific, or Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul; to Port- 
land via Northern Pacific, Great Northern, or Oregon 
& Washington Railroad & Navigation Company; to 

427 



oBuitie to tje i^ational ^arfe^ 

San Francisco via Southern Pacific ; to Denver via 
Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe; any road to starting- 
point. Round trip from Chicago, $90. Round trip 
from St. Louis, $87.50. Round trip from Kansas City, 

$89.57. 

Yellowstone Park — side trips from Routes A and B : 

On tickets via Northern Pacific: From Livingston, 
Montana, via Northern Pacific to Gardiner, northern 
entrance, and return, $3.00. 

On tickets via Great Northern: From Havre, Mon- 
tana, on west-bound tickets and from Shelby, Mon- 
tana, on east-bound tickets via Great Northern and 
Northern Pacific to Gardiner, northern entrance, and 
return, $15.70. 

On tickets via Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul or 
Northern Pacific: From Butte, Montana, via Oregon 
Short Line to Yellowstone, Montana, western en- 
trance, and return, $12.25. 

On tickets via Burlington to Billings, thence via 
Northern Pacific or Great Northern to Seattle or 
Tacoma, there is no charge for side trip via Cody, 
Wyoming, to eastern entrance. 

On tickets via Northern Pacific: From Billings, 
Montana, via Burlington to Cody, Wyoming, and re- 
turn, $6.90; stage fare to Park entrance extra. 

Yellowstone Park — side trip from Route A only: — 
All tickets on this route read via Ogden, Utah; side 
trip via Oregon Short Line to Yellowstone, Montana, 
western entrance, and return, $12.25. 

Glacier Park — side trips from Routes A and B : — 
On tickets reading via Great Northern, stopover 
may be obtained at Belton or Glacier Park Stations 
without extra charge; no side trip necessary. 

On tickets reading via Chicago, Milwaukee & St. 

428 



S^nttotiuction 

Paul: From Butte, Montana, via Great Northern to 
Belton or Glacier Park Stations, and return, $13.35. 

On tickets reading via Northern Pacific: From Butte 
or Helena, Montana, via Great Northern to Belton or 
Glacier Park Stations, and return. From Butte, $13.35. 
From Helena, $13.15. 

Mount Rainier Park — side trips from Routes A 
and B: — 

Tacoma via Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul to Ash- 
ford and return, $4.00; stage fare Ashford to Paradise 
Valley and return, $5.00. 

Crater Lake Park from Routes A and B : — 

Stopover allowed at Medford or Kirk on Southern 
Pacific without extra charge. Stage fare: Medford to 
Crater Lake and return, $16.50; Kirk to Crater Lake 
and return, $6.00; Medford to Crater Lake, thence 
Kirk or vice versa, $11.25. 

Lassen Volcanic Park from Routes A and B : — 

Stopover allowed at Red Bluff on Southern Pacific 
without extra charge; stage fare to Park ^lo.oo in each 
direction. 

Lassen Volcanic Park from Route A only: — 

On tickets reading via Southern Pacific: From Fernley, 
Nevada, via Southern Pacific to Westwood, California, 
and return, $6.85; stage fare * to Park ^6.00 round trip. 
On tickets reading via Western Pacific stopover al- 
lowed at Keddie, California, without extra charge; 
stage fare ^ to Park ^14.00 round trip. 

YosEMiTE Park — side trip from Route A: — 

San Francisco via Southern Pacific or Atchison, 

* No regular service on stage line. 
429 



<©uitie to tJje j^ational J^arftjef 

Topeka & Santa Fe to Yosemite Village, round trip, 
rail and stage, $23.00. 

Yosemite Park — side trip from Route B only: — 

Merced via Yosemite Valley Railroad to Yosemite 
Village, round trip, rail and stage, $18.50. 

Sequoia Park — side trip from Route A: — 

San Francisco via Southern Pacific or Atchison, 
Topeka & Santa Fe to Visalia and Giant Forest, round 
trip, rail and stage, $24.00. 

Sequoia Park — side trip from Route B only: — 

Visalia to Giant Forest, round trip, rail and stage, 
$13-30. 

Yosemite and Sequoia Parks — side trip from 
Route A: — 

Tourists should buy ticket to Giant Forest, stopover 
at Merced in one direction, and buy side trip to Yose- 
mite. San Francisco via Atchison, Topeka & Santa F6 
or Southern Pacific to Giant Forest and return, round 
trip, rail and stage, $24.00. Merced to Yosemite Vil- 
lage, round trip, rail and stage, $18.50. 

General Grant Park — side trip from Route A: — 
San Francisco to General Grant Park and return, 
rail and stage, ^20.00. 

General Grant Park — side trip from Route B 
only: — 

Stopover at Sanger may be obtained without extra 
charge; stage fare to Park, round trip, $8.00. 

Grand Canon — side trip from Route B only : — 

From Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe at Williams to 
Grand Canon, round trip, $7.50. 



3Fntrotiuction 

Mesa Verde Park — side trip from Routes A and B : 
Denver via Denver & Rio Grande to camp in Park, 
round trip, $35.00. 

Mesa Verde Park — side trips from Route A, and 
only on tickets reading via Denver & Rio Grande: — 
From Grand Junction to camp in Park, round trip, 
$33-30- From Montrose to camp in Park, round trip, 
$28.90. From Grand Junction to camp in Park, thence 
to Denver via Antonito and Alamosa, $30.00. 

Rocky Mountain Park — side trip from Routes A 
and B: — 

Denver to Estes Park and return, rail and stage, 
$9.60. 

Equipment 

As all the scenic Parks are in high mountain country, 
the tourist should be sure to wear warm clothing suitable 
for rough outdoor use. Woolen trousers or riding-breeches 
are desirable, not only because of their warmth, but also 
because they ofTer better protection in rainy weather. 
Woolen underwear is recommended because it prevents 
the body from becoming chilled when a rest is taken when 
the climber is perspiring; nothing is more uncomfortable 
or dangerous than cotton underwear wet with perspiration. 
Women who expect to climb should wear riding-breeches, 
as bloomers get caught on bushes and oflfer too much re- 
sistance to the wind. A flannel middy blouse allows free 
use of the arms and body and is far superior to the shirt- 
waist. A felt hat is best for both men and women; it may 
be pulled over the eyes as a protection from the sun, and 
it is far superior to a cap during a rainstorm. Heavy, 
comfortable shoes and woolen socks or stockings are 
essential for those who are going to tramp. Wet shoes 
may be worn if the socks are dry; the shoes will feel cold 



^uitie to tjje i^ational ^ath^ 

and clammy at first, but a little brisk tramping will soon 
make the feet warm and comfortable. 

Motorists should bear in mind that the high altitude 
causes a marked reduction in the power of the engine, so 
that much more gasoline will be required than at sea- 
level. Care should be taken that the engine does not be- 
come heated on long grades. 



Yellowstone National Park 

Location : Northwestern Wyoming, southern Montana, 
and eastern Idaho. Area: 3348 square miles. Season: 
June 20 to September 15. Address of supervisor: Yel- 
lowstone Park, Wyoming. 

Railroad Connections 

Yellowstone Park is reached by railroads on three 
sides — on the north by the Northern Pacific, on the 
west by the Oregon Short Line, and on the east by the 
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy. 

The following rates apply to all entrances or entering 
via one entrance and leaving via another: Chicago, 
$47.50; St. Paul, $39.50; St. Louis, $44.50; Kansas City, 
$37.00; Seattle, $33.15; San Francisco, $66.25. 

The Northern Pacific Railway reaches the Park at 
Gardiner, the northern entrance, by way of a branch leav- 
ing the main line at Livingston, Montana. Side trip from 
Gardiner, $3.00. 

The Oregon Short Line reaches the Park at Yellow- 
stone, Montana, the western entrance. This line makes 
connection with transcontinental roads passing through 
Salt Lake City or Ogden, and with the Chicago, Mil- 
waukee & St. Paul at Butte, Montana. Round trip in 
connection with through tickets Salt Lake City or Ogden 
or Butte to Yellowstone, $12.25. Connection may also be 
made at Butte with the Northern Pacific Railway. 

The Chicago, Burlington & Quincy reaches Cody, 
Wyoming, 63 miles from the eastern entrance by a good 
automobile road. All tickets from eastern points on the 
Burlington system are honored via Cody to the Park 
boundary without extra charge. 

433 



4B>uitie to tfje l^ational ^atk^ 

Tourists holding transcontinental tickets via the Great 
Northern may make the side trip to Yellowstone Park 
for ^15.70 (see p. 428) additional. 

Tickets including transportation to Denver, Yellow- 
stone Park, and Glacier Park are sold at the following 
rates: Chicago, $58.00; St. Louis, $55.00; Kansas City, 
$47-50. 

Coupon tickets may be purchased covering railroad 
transportation, accommodation at hotels or camps, and 
automobile transportation in the Park. 

Automobile Routes 

From the Lincoln Highway the Park may be reached 
by two routes — on the east from Cheyenne, Wyoming, 
and on the west from Ogden, Utah. The route from 
Cheyenne passes through Chugwater, Wheatland, Doug- 
las, Casper, Lost Cabin, Thermopolis, Worland, Basin, 
and Cody to the eastern entrance, the total distance being 
541 miles. From Ogden the route leads through Pocatello 
and Idaho Falls to Yellowstone, Montana, the western 
entrance. The distance by this route is 324 miles. 

From the Yellowstone Trail the Park may be reached 
from Billings via Cody to the eastern entrance (175 miles) ; 
Livingston to Gardiner, northern entrance (55 miles); 
Bozeman to Yellowstone, western entrance (93 miles); 
Butte to Yellowstone, western entrance (170 miles). 

Automobiles entering the Park are required to pay 
$7.50 for a single trip or $10.00 for a season permit. 
Speed limits range from 8 to 20 miles per hour. 

Hotels and Camps 

The Yellowstone Park Hotel Company operates hotels 
at Mammoth Hot Springs (Mammoth Hotel), Upper 
Geyser Basin (Old Faithful Inn), Yellowstone Lake 
(Lake Hotel), and Grand Canon (Grand Canon Hotel). 
It also maintains a lunch-station at Pahaska on the road 
to Cody. The rates at the hotels are $6.00 per day for 

434 



rooms without bath. The Fountain Hotel at Lower 
Geyser Basin is not open. 

The Yellowstone Park Camping Company operates 
permanent camps at Mammoth Hot Springs, Upper Gey- 
ser Basin, Yellowstone Lake, Grand Canon, and Tower 
Falls. The rate at the camps for the regular 5-day trip 
through the Park is $18.00. Rates per day range from 
$3.25 to $4.00, according to the class of tents. 

Transportation 

The familiar Concord coaches that were for so many 
years a feature of travel in the Yellowstone have been 
discontinued and transportation is now by means of 
automobile stages. All the transportation is furnished 
by one corporation, the camping companies no longer 
operating coaches as was the practice before the con- 
solidation. The automobiles will make the circular tour 
in 2 days, but this allows no time for seeing anything at 
the hotels or camps. Coupon tickets covering hotel and 
transportation within the Park are not sold for less than 
a 5-day trip. 

The regular tour of the Park by the automobile stages 
costs $25.00. Surreys may be obtained for drives at the 
important points, but it is far more satisfactory to walk, 
as the distances are not great. 

The hotels will furnish guides for ^5.00 per day and 
saddle horses for $3.50 per day. The camps will supply 
saddle-horses for $3.00 per day, and guides for $4.50. 

Principal Points 

The places generally visited are Mammoth Hot Springs, 
the Upper Geyser Basin, Yellowstone Lake, the Grand 
Canon of Yellowstone River, and Mount Washburn. All 
these points lie on the main road system that is traversed 
by the automobile coaches. The distances along this 
route are as follows: — 



435 



<6uitJe to t\^t l^ational ^arft$f 



Points of interest and distances on circular tour on main 
roadfrotn Gardiner, Montana, tiorthern entrance 

Miles 
Mammoth Hot Springs (Mammoth Hotel, perma- 
nent camp) 5 

Hoodoos and Silver Gate 8 

Golden Gate and Rustic Falls 9 

Swan Lake 10 

Willow Park 14 

Apollinaris Spring 15 

Obsidian Cliff 17 

Beaver Lake 17I 

Roaring Mountain 20^ 

Twin Lakes 21 

Bijah Spring 22 

Fryingpan 23 

Norris Geyser Basin 25 

Elk Park 27 

Gibbon Meadows 28 

Artists (Gibbon) Paint Pot 29 

Gibbon Caiion 29I 

Beryl Spring 30 

Soda and Iron Springs 33 

Gibbon Falls (80 feet) 33I 

Caiion Creek 34 

Road to western entrance 35 

Cascades of Firehole River ) . 

Road to western entrance ) ^^^ 

Nez Perce Creek 43 

Lower Geyser Basin 45 

Excelsior Geyser 48 

Biscuit Basin 51 

Upper Geyser Basin (Old Faithful Inn, permanent 

camp) 54 

Kepler Cascade 56 

Lone Star Road 57§ 

Continental Divide 62§ 

De Lacy Creek 63^ 

Shoshone Point : 64^ 

Continental Divide 69^ 

Lake View ) 

Duck Lake S ' 

Thumb of Yellowstone Lake 73 

Arnica Creek 78^ 



436 



iellotD^tone i^ational ^arfe 

Miles 

Natural Bridge \ ^ 

Bridge Creek / «43 

Yellowstone Lake (Lake Hotel permanent camp) ... 89 

Lake outlet 90 

Mud Volcano 96^ 

Grotto Springs 97 

Hayden Valley 100 

Alum Creek 102 

Grand Canon of the Yellowstone River (Canon 

Hotel, permanent camp) 105 

Dunraven cut-off 1 12 

Top of Mount Washburn 116 

Tower Falls Road 119 

Tower Falls (132 feet) 125^ 

Permanent camp 127^ 

Petrified trees I28| 

Blacktail Deer Creek 140 

Lava Creek, Undine Falls (60 feet) 143 

Mammoth Hot Springs 148 

Gardiner 153 

Distances from Yellowstone, Montana, western 
entrance, to main road 

Miles 

Via Canon Creek: — 

Ranger Station 3 

Junction of Gibbon and Firehole Rivers 13 

Caiion Creek, main road. (This point is 35 miles 
from Gardiner; for distances beyond this point 

see table of distances from Gardiner) 17 

Via Firehole River: — 

Cascades of the Firehole River direct via road up 
Firehole River. (This point is 39I miles from 
Gardiner; for distances beyond this point see 

table of distances from Gardiner) I5§ 

Points of interest and distances from Cody, Wyoming, 
via eastern entrance to main road 

Miles 

Eastern entrance 63 

Sylvan Pass 71 

Sylvan Lake 72 

Cub Creek 76 

437 



(Bui^t to tfje i^ational ^arh^ 

Miles 

Turbid Lake 83 

Lake outlet, main road. (This point is 90 mile 
from Gardiner; for distances from this point see 
table of distances from Gardiner) gi 

Points of interest and distances from Jackson, Wyoming, 
via southern entrance, to main road 

Miles 

Southern entrance 25 

Lewis Falls (upper, 80 feet; lower, 50 feet) 34 

Lewis Lake, south end 36 

Trail to Shoshone Lake 41 

Continental Divide 43I 

Thumb of Lake, main road. (This point is 73 miles 
from Gardiner; for distances beyond this point 

see table of distances from Gardiner) 48 

Mammoth Hot Springs 
Here are located the famous terraces, the Mammoth 
Hotel, the abandoned army post of Fort Yellowstone, and 
the headquarters of the Park Supervisor. The terraces 
are near the hotel, and the tourist will have no difificulty 
in finding his way over them. The principal ones are 
Minerva, Mound, Pulpit, Jupiter, Angel, Cleopatra, 
and Hymen. Near the southwest end of the terraces is 
the Devil's Kitchen — a cave which may be visited. 
Another peculiar rock formation beyond the Devil's 
Kitchen is the mass of travertine known as the White 
Elephant. 

Upper Geyser Basin 

The Upper Geyser Basin contains more active geysers 
than all the other geyser regions in the world. Several 
days might well be spent roaming among the geysers and 
observing the varied phenomena. 

The more important ones are listed in the table on 
page 439. 



438 



Urilotoieftone l^ational ^ath 



Geyser 


Height 
{feet) 


Duration of eruption 


Interval 


Artemisia.. . . 


SO 


10 to 15 minutes 


24 to 30 hours 


Bee Hive 


200 


6 to 8 minutes 


3 to 5 times at 12-hour in- 
tervals following Giantess 


Castle 


S0-7S 


30 minutes 


24 to 26 hours: quiet 4 to 
7 days, then plays 3 or 4 
times at intervals stated 


Cub, large. . . 


60 


8 minutes 


With Lioness 


Cub, small.. . 


10-30 


17 minutes 


2Y2 hours 


Daisy 


70 


3 minutes 


8s to 90 minutes 


Fan 


iS-25 


10 minutes 


Irregular 


Giant 


200-250 


60 minutes 


6 to 14 days 


Giantess 


iSO-200 


12 to 36 hours 


Irregular; s to 40 days 


Grand 


200 


15 to 30 minutes 


Irregular; i to 2 days 


Grotto 


20-30 


Varies 


2 to 5 hours 


Jewel 


S-20 


About I minute 


5 minutes 


Lion 


50-60 


About 2 to 4 min- 


Irregular; usually 2 to 17 






utes 


times a day 


Lioness 


80-100 


About 10 minutes 


Irregular 


Mortar 


30 


4 to 6 minutes 


Irregular 


Oblong 


20-40 


7 minutes 


8 to IS hours 


Old Faithful. 


120-170 


4 minutes 


60 to 95 minutes 


Riverside.. . . 


80-100 


IS minutes 


6 hours 


Sawmill 


20-35 


I to 3 hours 


Irregular; usually 5 to 8 
times a day 


Spasmodic . . 


4 


20 to 60 minutes 


Irregular; usually I to 4 
times a day 


Turban 


20-40 


10 minutes to 3 








hours 


Irregular 



The following springs are well worth a visit: — 
Black Sand Spring (about 55 by 60 feet). 
Chinaman. Punch Bowl. 

Emerald Pool. Sponge. 

Morning Glory. Sunset Lake. 

Grand Canon 

The tourist would do well to spend some time at the 
Grand Canon, as its wonderful beauty cannot be grasped 
in a short time. 

If the canon is to be viewed from the northern rim a 
high, steel bridge is crossed over Cascade Creek. At the 
east end of the bridge a path leads to the right down the 
edge of the gulch to Crystal Falls, a lovely little falls, that 
is often overlooked in the presence of the larger attrac- 

439 



(Buiht to tlje i^ational ^arftjBf 

tions. This path can be followed to top of the Lower Falls 
of the Yellowstone, 308 feet high, but dangerous. An- 
other path from the end of the bridge leads to the left; 
this is a short cut to the Canon Hotel. The main road 
winds up the hill, afifording here and there glimpses of the 
Grand Canon. At the top of the hill are the stairs to the 
Lower Falls. A few hundred feet farther the branch road 
to the hotel and to Mount Washburn turns out to the left. 

On the road about i mile from Canon Junction is Look- 
out Point, reached by walking a hundred feet out to the 
right of the road. Down the gulch to the right of Look- 
out Point is a rather steep trail leading to Red Rock, a 
fine point from which to view the Lower Falls. Grand 
View and Castle Ruins are other good points from which 
to view the canon. 

But better yet is Inspiration Point, at the end of this 
road. This point, Artist's Point, Lookout Point, and the 
edge of the Lower Falls are the best places from which to 
view the wonders of the Canon. The view from each is 
different from the others, and each merits a careful in- 
spection from the tourist. This caiion is some 20 miles in 
length, but it is only the first 3 miles below the Lower 
Falls that carry the wonderful colors. 

Side Trips 

Some of the best scenery in the Park lies off the regular 
lines of travel and many interesting side trips may be 
taken if the time is available. 

From Mammoth Hot Springs 
Around Bunsen Peak via Buffalo Corral, Middle 
Gardiner Canon, Sheepeater Cliffs, Osprey Falls, and 
Golden Gate; distance, 12 miles; guide not necessary. 

Summit of Bunsen Peak. Distance, 7 miles in each di- 
rection ; saddle horses may be ridden to the top ; guide not 
necessary. 

Electric Peak (11,100 feet). This is the highest moun- 

440 



f cHohJ^tone l^ational ^arft 

tain in the Park and a fine view is obtained on all sides. 
The distance is lo miles in each direction, 8 miles of which 
may be done on horseback ; as the path over the remain- 
ing 2 miles is difficult and somewhat dangerous, a guide 
should be employed. 

Mount Everts. Saddle-horses may be ridden up from 
either end and over the top; total distance is about 15 
miles, and no guide is needed. 

Buffalo herds. A small herd of buffalo is kept about 
I mile south of Mammoth Hot Springs, on the road to 
Bunsen Peak. The main herd is kept on Lamar River, 
about 30 miles to the east and about 12 miles from the 
Wylie Camp at Tower Falls. 

Specimen Ridge and the Fossil Forest are 24 miles 
southeast by a good wagon road ; thence 4 miles by trail. 
A guide will be needed by all tourists except experienced 
campers. 

Northeastern portion of Park. A trip could be made to 
include the petrified trees. Tower Falls, main buffalo herd, 
Specimen Ridge and Fossil Forest, and some of the best 
fishing in the Park in Yellowstone River in vicinity of 
Tower Falls, Lamar River and Slough Creek. Perma- 
nent camp near Tower Falls provides accommodations 
after Mount Washburn Road is opened in the spring. 
There is a wagon road to Tower Falls, Slough Creek, and 
Soda Butte, but other points would have to be reached by 
trail, and guide and pack-train would be needed. Ex- 
cellent camping places in abundance on this trip. 

Fishing trips. One-day fishing trips from Mammoth 
Hot Springs may be made with rig, saddle-horse, or even 
on foot by good pedestrians, as follows: South on main 
road to Obsidian Creek, Indian Creek, Upper Gardiner 
and branches, and Glen Creek, for small Eastern brook 
trout; distance, 4 to 10 miles. East to Lava Creek, 5 
miles, for small native or Eastern brook trout, or to Black- 
tail Deer Creek, 8 miles, for small native or rainbow 
trout. East or northeast to main Gardiner River for 

441 



(Buitit to tfje l^ational ^arftjf 

whitefish, native, Loch Leven, and Eastern brook trout. 
North, 6 miles to Yellowstone River for whitefish and 
native trout. 

From Upper Geyser Basin 
From Upper Geyser Basin an interesting side trip is to 
Shoshone Lake and Geyser Basin. The route is 4I miles 
by road via Lone Star Geyser, thence 8 miles by trail. 
This trip offers good fishing for Loch Leven, lake, and 
Eastern brook trout. A guide is needed. 

From Lake Hotel 
From the Lake Hotel interesting trips may be made by 
motor boat to the region around the lake, which is not 
reached by roads. 

Camping Trips 

As the distance between the regular stopping-places 
are too long for any except the most active and hardened 
trampers, the tourist who desires to see the Park leisurely 
should travel on horseback, by wagon, or in his own auto- 
mobile. Camping outfits and supplies may be obtained 
at Gardiner, Yellowstone, and Cody. The names of out- 
fitters may be obtained from the Park Supervisor. There 
are general stores in the Park at Mammoth Hot Springs, 
Upper Geyser Basin, and at the outlet of Yellowstone 
Lake. 

Public automobile camps are provided at Mammoth 
Hot Springs, Upper Geyser Basin, outlet of Yellowstone 
Lake, and the Grand Canon. At these places there are 
fireplaces that may be used in common by the tourist and 
there are designated areas for tents and for parking. 

Clothing 

The tourist making the ordinary trip on the automobile 
stage will not need any special clothing except a sweater 
or overcoat or other warm clothing for cool days. Heavy 

442 



iellotxj^tone i^ational ^ath. 

shoes or rubbers should be worn on trips through the 
geyser basins. A linen duster will prove very useful; 
dusters may be rented at the hotels and camps. Persons 
camping out in the Park should be provided with woolen 
riding-breeches or trousers, flannel shirts, light woolen 
underwear, felt hats, ponchos, and stout shoes. Women 
should wear middy blouses and cloth skirt or riding- 
breeches; a waterproof cape may be substituted for the 
poncho. 

Fishing 

There is good fishing in almost all of the many streams 
for cut-throat, Eastern brook, Loch Leven, Von Behr, 
rainbow, and lake trout and whitefish. The best fishing 
is, of course, in the streams farthest from the roads. The 
best fishing near the roads is in Yellowstone Lake and 
River, Firehole River, Madison River, Lamar Creek and 
Slough Creek. The fish in Yellowstone Lake are not very 
game and the quality is likely to be poor. The fly-fishing 
is best after August I , but on the higher portions of some of 
the streams it is good in July. Flies and tackle of all kinds 
can be bought or rented in the Park. The flies generally 
used are the following : march brown (early fishing) ; black 
gnat; grizzly king; professor; brown hackle; cow dung, 
dark; cow dung, light; gray hackle, yellow body; abbey; 
coachman; royal coachman; Parmacheene belle; queen of 
waters; Jock Scott; silver doctor; white miller (for late 
evening). 

A fishing license is not required. 



Yosemite National Park 

Location: Middle eastern California. Area: 1 125 
square miles. Season: May i to November i. Address of 
Supervisor: Yosemite, California. 

For many years the name Yosemite National Park 
has been considered synonymous with Yosemite Valley, 
because only within the last year has it been possible for 
any one except an experienced mountaineer to enjoy the 
beauties of the wonderful area of mountains and forest 
that lies beyond the great Valley. Only a part of it is now 
supplied with permanent camps, but it is expected that 
more of these will be established and that more and more 
of this beautiful Park will be accessible every year. Yosem- 
ite is the only great Park that is accessible throughout 
the year. The season extends from May i to November i, 
but the hotel in Yosemite Valley is open during the winter 
for those who desire to see the Park in its winter dress of 
snow. In winter, however, the higher portions of the 
Park are accessible only to hardened and experienced 
mountaineers. 

Railroad Connections 

The Yosemite Valley Railroad reaches the western 
border of Yosemite Park at El Portal. This road con- 
nects with the Southern Pacific and the Atchison, Topeka 
& Santa Fe Railroads at Merced, where stopovers may 
be obtained on tourist tickets, and excursion ticket to 
Yosemite Village may be purchased for $18.50 for the 
round trip. Through sleeping and parlor cars are also 
opeFated from San Francisco to El Portal by way of the 
Southern Pacific Railroad. The round-trip fare from San 

444 



iojfemite i^ational ^atk 

Francisco to Yosemite Village is $23.00. During the sea- 
son the Park may also be reached by automobile stage 
from Fresno or Merced on the Southern Pacific and 
Atchison, Topeka & Santa F6 Railroads. The latest 
automobile rates from these points by way of the Yosemite 
Stage and Turnpike Company are as follows: — 

Automobile stage fares from Fresno or Merced to — 

Yosemite via Mariposa Big Trees, Wawona, and 

Inspiration Point, in each direction $14.25 

Yosemite via Mariposa Big Trees, Wawona, and 
Inspiration Point, including side trip Chinquapin 
to Glacier Point and return, in each direction. . . . 19.25 

Yosemite and return to either point via Mariposa 

Big Trees, Wawona, and Inspiration 24.00 

Yosemite and return to either point via Mariposa 
Big Trees, Wawona, and Inspiration Point, in- 
cluding side trip Chinquapin to Glacier Point and 
return 29.00 

Wawona, in each direction 8.50 

Wawona and return to either point, including side 

trip to Mariposa Big Trees 15.00 

Wawona and return to either point, without side trip 
to Mariposa Big Trees 14.00 

Automobile Routes 

The motorist approaching California over the Lincoln 
Highway should turn south at Ely and reach the Tioga 
Road at the eastern border of the Park near Mono Lake; 
distance about 200 miles. There are two routes from San 
Francisco: via Stockton, Modesto, and Coulterville, 210 
miles; or via San Jose, Gilroy, Los Baiios, Fresno, and 
the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees, 280 miles. The best 
route from Los Angeles is by way of Saugus, Neenach, 
Bakersfield, Tulare, Fresno, and Mariposa Grove of Big 
Trees; distance 365 miles. 

The entrance fee for an automobile is $5.00 for a single 
trip, or $8.00 for a season permit. Speed limits range 
from 8 to 20 miles per hour. On account of the snow the 
Tioga Road is generally not open before July 15 or after 

445 



(Buitit to tl)e l^attonal ^arftjBf 

October i, the Big Oak Flat Road not before May 15 or 
after November i, the Wawona Road not before May or 
after November. Motor-cycles are not allowed in the 
Park. 

Hotels and Camps 

At Yosemite Village in the Valley a new modern hotel 
is now under construction, but accommodations are now 
furnished by the old Sentinel Hotel, which has been re- 
furnished, and by a number of camps. 

Hotel and Camps in Yosemite Valley 

Operated by Desmond Park Service Company: — 

Sentinel Hotel, per day $4 to $5 

Yosemite Falls Camp, wooden bungalows, per 

day. . 3.50 

El Capitan Camp, wood frames covered with 

canvas and wood floors, per day 2.50 

Camp Lost Arrow, operated by W. M. Sell, Jr., 

per day 2.50 

Camp Curry, operated by Curry Camping Com- 
pany, per day 2.50 

Camp Ahwahnee, operated by W. M. Sell, Sr., 
per day 3.75 

At Glacier Point, above the Valley, the Desmond Park 
Service Company operates the New Glacier Point Hotel, 
with a uniform rate of $4.00 per day. 

At Tenaya Lake, Tuolumne Soda Springs, and Merced 
Lake the Desmond Park-Service Company operates per- 
manent camps known as lodges. These lodges have wood 
frames covered with canvas and wood floors. The rate at 
all of the lodges is $3.00 per day, with an additional charge 
of $1.00 when the lodge is occupied exclusively by one 
person. 

Eight miles from the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees, but 
outside the Park, is the Wawona Hotel at Wawona; rates 
are from $4.00 to $5.00 per day. 

446 



io^emitc i^ational ^ath 

Tours 

The main roads in Yosemite National Park are the 
Tioga Road, which crosses the Park in an east-west di- 
rection almost in its center; the Big Oak Flat Road, by 
which Yosemite Valley may be reached from Modesto 
and Stockton; the Coulterville Road, by which Yosemite 
Valley may be reached from Merced; El Portal Road, be- 
tween the terminus of the Yosemite Valley Railroad and 
Yosemite Valley; the Wawona Road, connecting Yosem- 
ite Valley and the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees; and the 
Glacier Point Road, extending from the Wawona Road to 
Glacier Point. Travel between points in the Park that 
are not contiguous to these roads must be made on foot 
or horseback over the many trails that connect the princi- 
pal points of interest. 

Yosemite Village is the center of all activities in the 
Park and practically all the trips radiate from this point. 
Every variety of trip may be taken, ranging from a single 
day excursion to the peaks surrounding the Valley to a 
9-day tour of the High Sierra. Arrangements may be made 
for extended or special trips, but the tours and trips 
listed below include the more important points of in- 
terest. All of these trips are under the supervision of the 
Desmond Park Service Company and are made on horse- 
back unless otherwise noted. The rates include transpor- 
tation only. Meals and lodging may be obtained at 
Glacier Point Hotel and at the lodges at the regular 
rates. 

One-day trips: — 

Vernal and Nevada Falls, round trip $3-00 

Vernal and Nevada Falls, Glacier Point and re- 
turn, continuous, round trip 3.00 

Vernal and Nevada Falls and Clouds Rest, round 

trip 3.00 

Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome via Union Point 

(short trail), round trip 3.00 

Yosemite Point, round trip 3.00 

447 



oBuitie to t^t li^ational ^arfe^ 

Eagle Peak, round trip $3-00 

Pohono Trail to Fort Monroe, thence by automo- 
bile from Fort Monroe via Wawona Road to 

Valley 5.00 

North Dome via Mirror Lake, and return 

via Yosemite Falls, or vice versa 3.00 

Lake Tenaya via Tenaya Canon, round trip 3.00 

Glacier Point, Sentinel Dome, and Fissures via 

Union Point (short trail) and return 3.00 

Two-day trips: — 

Happy Isles, Vernal and Nevada Falls, Glacier 
Point Hotel, Sentinel Dome, Taft Point, Dewey 
Point, and Inspiration Point 8.00 

Mirror Lake, Tenaya Lake Lodge, Nevada and 

Vernal Falls 6.00 

Three-day trips: — 

Happy Isles, Vernal and Nevada Falls, Merced 
Lake Lodge, Merced Soda Springs, and Wash- 
burn Lake 9.00 

Mirror Lake, Tenaya Lake Lodge, Nevada and 

lUilouette Falls, and Glacier Point Hotel 9.00 

Four-day trips: — 

Mirror Lake, Merced Lake Lodge, Merced Soda 
Springs, Washburn Lake, Nevada and Vernal 
Falls 12.00 

Mirror Lake, Tenaya Lake Lodge, White Cascades, 
Le Conte, California, Nevada, and Illilouette 
Falls, and Glacier Point Hotel 12.00 

Five-day trips: — 

Mirror Lake, Tenaya Lake Lodge, Tuolumne 
Meadows, Soda Springs, Tuolumne Soda Springs 
Camp, Donohue Pass, Mount Lyell, Glen Aulin 
Falls, Magee Lake, Eagle Peak, and Yosemite 
Point 15.00 

Six-day trips: — 

Mirror Lake, Tenaya Lake Lodge, White Cascades, 
Le Conte, and California Falls, Soda Springs, 
Tuolumne Soda Springs Camp, Tuolumne Mead- 
ows, Donohue Pass, Mount Lyell, Eagle Peak, 
and Yosemite Point 18.OO 

448 



Seven-day trips: — 

Mirror Lake, Tenaya Lake Lodge, White Cascades, 
Le Conte and California Falls, Tuolumne Mead- 
ows, Soda Springs, Tuolumne Soda Springs 
Camp, Donohue Pass, Mount Lyell, Nevada and 
lUilouette Falls, and Glacier Point Hotel $21.00 

Eight-day trips: — 

Mirror Lake, Tenaya Lake Lodge, White Cascades, 
Le Conte and California Falls, Tuolumne Mead- 
ows, Soda Springs, Tuolumne Soda Springs 
Camp, Donohue Pass, Mount Lyell, Merced 
Lake Lodge, Merced Soda Springs, and Wash- 
burn Lake 24.OO 

Nine-day trips: — 

Mirror Lake, Tenaya Lake Lodge, Cascades, Le 
Conte and California Falls, Tuolumne Meadows, 
Soda Springs, Tuolumne Soda Springs Camp, 
Tuolumne Pass, Mount Lyell, Merced Lake 
Lodge, Merced Soda Springs, Washburn Lake, 
and Glacier Point Hotel 27.00 

Automobile trips to points reached by road may be 
made at the following rates: — 

From Sentinel Hotel or any of the permanent camps : — 

To or from Happy Isles or Mirror Lake, one way. $ .75 

Round trip to Happy Isles or Mirror Lake 1.25 

To Bridal Veil Falls, one way i.oo 

To Bridal Veil Falls, round trip 1.75 

To Happy Isles, Mirror Lake, the Village, Cathe- 
dral Rocks, Bridal Veil Falls, El Capitan, round 

trip 3-25 

To Happy Isles, Mirror Lake, the Village, Cathe- 
dral Rocks, Bridal Veil Falls, El Capitan, Artist 

and Inspiration Points, round trip 4.50 

To Artist and Inspiration Points, round trip 3.00 

From Yosemite Valley: — 

To Wawona, one way 5-50 

To Wawona, round trip 9-50 

To Mariposa Big Tree Grove and return to Wa- 
wona 7-75 

To Mariposa Big Tree Grove, round trip 11.25 

449 



(Duitie to tf^c i^ational ^arft^ 

To Mariposa Big Trees and return via Inspiration 
Point and Wawona, including side trip Chin- 
quapin to Glacier Point and return $16.25 

To Glacier Point, one way 5.50 

To Glacier Point, round trip 9.50 

To Tuolumne Big Trees, one way 2.50 

To Tuolumne Big Trees, round trip 4.25 

To Tenaya Lake via Tuolumne Big Trees, one 8.75 

way 

To Tenaya Lake via Tuolumne Big Trees, round 

trip ^ ; 15.25 

To Soda Springs via Tuolumne Big Trees, one way 10.00 

To Soda Springs via Tuolumne Big Trees, round trip 1 7.50 

From Glacier Point: — 

To Mariposa Big Tree Grove and return to Valley 

or Glacier Point 11.25 

To Wawona, one way 5.50 

To Wawona, round trip 9.50 

The automobile rates from Yosemite Village to El 
Portal, Fresno, and Merced are given in connection with 
the account of the railroad connections. 

Principal Points of Interest 

Distances from Yosemite Post-0 ffice to Principal 
Points in Yosemite Valley 

Miles 

Basket Dome (top of) 9.0 Northeast 

Camp Ahwahnee i.o West 

Camp Curry 1 .0 East 

Camp Lost Arrow 5 North 

Clouds' Rest 1 1 .0 East 

El Capitan 3.5 West 

Glacier Point 4.5 South 

Glacier Point Hotel and Camp 4.5 South 

Half Dome (foot of) 3.0 East 

Happy Isles 2.5 East 

Liberty Cap 5.5 East 

Mirror Lake 3.0 East 

Mount Watkins (top of) 9.0 East 

Nevada Falls 6.0 East 

North Dome (top of) 1 1 .0 Northeast 

Sentinel Rock l.o West 



io^emite l^ational ^arft 

Miles 

Tenaya Canon 4.0 East 

Union Point 3.0 South 

Vernal Falls 5.0 East 

Yosemite Falls 5 North 

Mariposa Big Tree Grove 

Sizes of Big Trees in Mariposa Grove 
[All dimensions are in feet] 



Trees 



Grizzly Giant 

Faithful Couple 

Michigan 

Fresno 

Columbia 

Old Guard (South Tree) . 

Lafayette 

Nevada 

General Sherman 

General Grant 

General Sheridan 

Philadelphia 

St. Louis 

Lincoln 

Washington 

William McKinley 

General Logan 

Galen Clark 

Pittsburgh 

Vermont 

Wawona (26 feet through 

opening) 

New York 

Forest Queen 

Boston 

Chicago 

Whittier 

Longfellow 

Captain A. E. Wood 

Mark Twain 

Mississippi 

Stonewall Jackson 

Georgia 

South Carolina 









Approxi- 


Girth 


Approxi- 
mate 
diameter 
at base 


Girth 

about 


mate 
diameter 


at 
base 


10 feet 
above 
ground 


about 
10 feet 
above 








ground 


93 


29.6 


64. S 


20. s 


94 


29.9 


63 


20 


SS-S 


17.7 


40 


12.7 


63 


20 


38. 5 


12.2 


80. S 


25. 6 


52 


16. s 


45 


14.3 


31 


9.9 


92. S 


29.4 


53 


16.9 


48. S 


15.4 


35 


II. I 


63 


20 


41. S 


13.2 


67 


21.3 


42 


13.4 


76 


24.2 


51 


16.2 


61. s 


19.6 


50.5 


16. 1 


73 


23.2 


51 


16.2 


72 


22.9 


54-5 


17.3 


92 


29.3 


65 


20.7 


70 


22.3 


46.5 


14.8 


76 


24.2 


49.5 


IS. 7 


59. S 


18.9 


47 


14.9 


53.5 


17 


41 


13 


47 


14.9 


38 


12. 1 






60. S 


19.2 


52 


16.S 


45.5 


14-5 


53. S 


17 


38 


12. 1 


58 


18.4 


47 


14.9 


57 


18. 1 


40. 5 


12.9 


62 


19.7 


47 


14.9 


51-5 


16.4 


43 


13.7 


52 


16. 5 


40 


12.7 


53 


16.9 


41 


13 


54. 5 


17.3 


37.5 


II. 9 


53 


16.9 


38. S 


12.2 


48 


15-3 


35 


II. I 


74 


23. S 


54. S 


17.3 



Height 



304 
244 
257 
273 
294 
244 
273 
278 
267 
271 
263 
275 
269 
258 
235 
243 
259 
238 
243 
2S7 

227 
237 
219 
348 
223 
368 
373 
310 
331 
369 
36s 
370 
264 



451 



<i5uitie to tf^t l^ational ^arfeief 

Principal Points reached from the Camps 

All the places listed below may be reached on horse- 
back and return made to camp in one day: — 

From Merced Lake Lodge: — 
Merced Soda Springs. 
Washburn Lake. 

From Tenaya Lake Lodge: — 
White Cascades. 
Le Conte Falls. 
California Falls. 

From Tuolumne Soda Spring Lodge: — 
Donohue Pass. 
Mount Lyell. 
Tuolumne Meadows. 
Tuolumne Pass. 

Height of Summits in Yosemite Valley 

Height above 

Name pier near 

Sentinel Hotel ' 
(feet) 

Artist Point 739 

Basket Dome 3.642 

Cathedral Rocks 2,591 

Cathedral Spires 2,154 

Clouds' Rest 5.964 

Columbia Rock 1,071 

Eagle Peak 3.813 

El Capitan 3,604 

Glacier Point ■ 3,254 

Half Dome 4,892 

Leaning Tower i ,903 

Liberty Cap 3,112 

North Dome 3,57i 

Old Inspiration Point 2,643 

Panorama Point 2,264 

Profile Cliff 3,543 

Pulpit Rock 765 

• This pier is 3962 feet above sea-level. 



Height above 
Name pier near 

Sentinel Hotel • 
(Jeet) 

Sentinel Dome 4,I57 

Stanford Point 2,699 

Washington Column 1,952 

Yosemite Point 2,975 

Height of Waterfalls in Yosemite Valley 

Feet 

Yosemite Falls 1,430 

Lower Yosemite Falls 320 

Nevada Falls 594 

Vernal Falls 317 

Illilouette Falls 370 

Bridal Veil Falls 620 

Ribbon Falls 1,612 

Widow's Tears Falls 1,170 

Clothing and Equipment 

As the best trips are made afoot or on horseback the 
tourist should carry only such extra clothing as may be 
transported in a haversack or rucksack. If additional 
material is carried it is necessary to hire a pack-horse at 
additional expense. The best outfit for men consists of 
woolen riding-breeches, flannel shirt, stout shoes, sneak- 
ers, woolen army socks, light weight woolen underwear, 
a felt hat, a sweater, and a pair of smoked glasses. As it 
seldom rains in the summer it is not necessary to carry a 
poncho. If many trips are made in automobiles a linen 
duster is advisable. Women should wear riding-breeches, 
woolen middy blouse, and woolen stockings, with puttees 
or leggings, a man's felt hat, and other clothing as de- 
scribed for men. 

Camping outfits may be obtained from the store of the 
Desmond Park Service Company at Yosemite Village, 
and provisions may be obtained at the Tenaya Lake, 
Tuolumne Soda Springs, and Merced Lake Lodges. Tour- 
ists desiring to rent camp equipment should make the 

' This pier is 3962 feet above sea-level. 

453 



oBuilie to tfje i^ational ^ath^ 

necessary arrangements before their arrival in the Park. 
Prices for regular outfits are as follows: — 

Price List for Camping Outfits 



Persons in party 


One week 


Two weeks 


Three weeks 


One month 


One 


$5.00 
7.50 
9.00 
11.00 
13.00 
1 5 00 


16.50 
9.00 
10.50 
12.00 
14.00 
16.00 


$7. SO 
9.50 
1 1. SO 
13-00 
15-00 

17-00 


$8 00 


Two 




Three 






14.00 




Six 









Fishing 
There is good fishing in almost all the streams for 
Eastern brook, rainbow, cutthroat, and Loch Leven 
trout. The files most commonly used are the black gnat, 
royal coachman, alder, king of the waters, and gray 
hackle; but other standard flies are used. Flies and tackle 
may be obtained at the general store at Yosemite Village. 
AH fishing must be done in conformity to the laws of Cali- 
fornia, both as regards open season and limit of catch, and 
size of fish. Every man fisherman over 18 years of age 
must have a fishing license, which may be obtained from 
any County Clerk or from the offices of the State Board 
of Fish and Game Commissioners at San Francisco, 
Sacramento, Los Angeles, and Fresno. The license fee is 
$1 for citizens of the United States who are bona-fide resi- 
dents of California, and $3.00 for citizens of the United 
States who are not bona-fide residents of California and 
for persons not citizens of the United States. 



Sequoia National Park 

Location: Eastern California. Area: 252 square miles. 
Season: June 15 to September 15. Address of Supervisor: 
Three Rivers, California. 

Railroad Connections 
Sequoia Park is best reached from Visalia on the 
Southern Pacific and Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Rail- 
roads; thence by Visalia Electric Railway to Lemon 
Cove, and thence by automobile stage of the Sequoia Na- 
tional Park Transportation Company to Camp Sierra in 
the Giant Forest. The distance from Lemon Cove to the 
Giant Forest is 40 miles. Heretofore the stages have left 
Lemon Cove on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays; and 
have made the return trip from the Giant Forest on Tues- 
days, Thursdays, and Saturdays. It is probable that 
daily service will soon be established. The round trip 
fare from Visalia to Camp Sierra is $13.30; from San 
Francisco to Camp Sierra, $24.00. 

Automobile Routes 

Sequoia Park may be reached from San Francisco by 
way of San Jos6, Gilroy, Los Bancs, Fresno, Goshen 
Junction and Visalia; distance 291 miles. From Los 
Angeles the route is by way of Bakersfield, Tulare, and 
Visalia; distance 307 miles. From Yosemite Park the 
shortest route is by way of Wawona, Fresno, and 
Visalia; distance 191 miles. 

Motorists are required to pay $2.00 for a single round 
trip through the Park, or $3.00 for each machine for a sea- 
son permit. Eastbound automobiles may use the road to 
Giant Forest between 7 a.m. and 5.30 p.m. ; no automobile 

455 



4Bmt}t to tf^t i^ational ^arfej^ 

will be allowed to leave the Giant Forest for the western 
boundary later than 6 p.m. The speed limit is from 8 to 15 
miles per hour. 

Camp 

A camp is operated at Giant Forest Post-Office by 
Walter E. Kenney, at the following rates: — 

Board and lodging : — 

I person, per day $3-25 

I person, per week 18.00 

1 person, 4 weeks 68.00 

2 persons, per day, each 3.00 

2 persons, per week, each 16.50 

2 persons, 4 weeks, each 60.00 

Meals without lodging: — 

Breakfast and lunch, each .75 

Dinner l.oo 

One night's lodging i .00 

Baths 35 

Trips 

No regular tours are scheduled for this Park, but the 
following rates are in effect for short trips: — 

Carriage trips only from Giant Forest : — 

Parker Group, Moro Rock, and return: — 

I person $1.00 

4 or more, each 75 

Admiration Point and return: — 

I person 3.00 

4 or more, each i .50 

General Sherman Tree, and return: — 

I person 1.00 

4 or more, each 50 

General Sherman Tree and Wolverton Creek — 

I person 2.00 

4 or more, each 75 

Five-seated carriage, with 2 horses, 

I full day 5.00 

All carriage trips include services of driver. 



J>equoia l^ational ^arft 

Rates for short horseback trips are as follows: — 

To Sherman Tree and return $2.00 

To Sherman Tree, Wolverton, and return by Circle 

Meadow 3.00 

To Moro Rock and return 2.00 

To Moro Rock and return by Crescent Log and 

Huckleberry Meadows 2.50 

To Alta and return 3.00 

To Twin Lakes and return 3.50 

To Admiration Point and return 3.00 

To Moro Rock, Crescent Log, Huckleberry Mead- 
ows, Wolverton, and Sherman Tree 3.50 

Chester Wright, Giant Forest, California, will furnish 
pack- and saddle-animals at $1.50 per day each, but in all 
cases guide must accompany animal, at $3.00 per day, the 
guide taking charge of packing and relieving tourists of 
responsibility for animals. All animals will be equipped 
with riding- or pack-saddles. 

Parties wishing to make long trips will be furnished 
with special rates. 

The dimensions of some of the principal trees are as 
follows : — 

Giant Forest Grove 
General Sherman, height 279.9 feet; diameter, 36.5 
feet. 
Abraham Lincoln, height 270 feet; diameter, 31 feet. 
William McKinley, height 291 feet; diameter, 28 feet. 

MuiR Grove 
Dalton, height, 292 feet; diameter, 27 feet. 

Garfield Grove 
California, height, 260 feet; diameter, 30 feet. ' 

Clothing and Equipment 
If the tourist makes only a short trip to the Giant 
Forest, no extra clothing will be necessary except a light 

457 



(Bnitit to tlje i^ational ^arhjBf 

overcoat and a sweater. If an extended stay is made and 
excursions are made to the other groves or the High 
Sierra, the following equipment is recommended: For 
men, woolen riding-breeches, woolen underwear, woolen 
army socks, flannel shirt, stout shoes, a felt hat, leggings 
or puttees, sweater, and coat. As there is little rain in the 
summer it is not necessary to take a poncho. Women 
should wear riding-breeches, flannel middy blouse, woolen 
stockings, a small felt hat, and other clothing as recom- 
mended for men. 

Fishing 

There is good fishing in Sequoia Park for rainbow, 
golden, cutthroat. Eastern brook, and Loch Leven trout. 
The royal coachman is the fly generally used, but often 
the brown and gray hackle with peacock body meets with 
success. Flies and other tackle may be purchased at the 
Giant Forest. 

In this Park all fishing must be in conformity with the 
laws of California as regards season, size of fish, and limit 
of catch. Every fisherman must have a sporting fishing 
license, which may be obtained from any County Clerk 
or from the offices of the State Board of Fish and Game 
Commissioners at San Francisco, Sacramento, Los 
Angeles, and Fresno. The license fee is $i.oo for citizens 
of the United States who are bona-fide residents of Cali- 
fornia, and $3.00 for citizens of the United States who 
are not bona-fide residents of California and for persons 
not citizens of the United States. Persons under 18 years 
of age do not require a license. 



General Grant National Park 

Location: Eastern California. Area: 4 square miles. 
Season: June 15 to September 15. Address of Supervisor: 
Three Rivers, California. 

General Grant Park is best reached from Sanger on 
the Southern Pacific Railway; thence by stage 46 miles 
to the Park. There is daily stage service to the park; 
round-trip fare, $8.00, 

Tourists traveling in their own automobiles will follow 
the routes to Sequoia Park given on page 455 as far as 
Visalia. The Park is 45 miles from Visalia. Permit to take 
an automobile into the Park costs 50 cents for a round 
trip or $2.50 for the season. Speed limits range from 8 
to 15 miles per hour. 

Rates for saddle- and pack-horses are $1.50 per day; 
for guides, $3.50 per day. 

There is a camp in the Park operated by Mrs. Mattie 
Decker (address, General Grant National Park, Cali- 
fornia), with rates as follows: — 

Board and lodging: 

Per day $2.50 

Per week 16.00 

Per month 60.00 

Lodging, I night l.oo 

Single meal .75 

At this camp there are also telephone station, general 
store, feed-yard, photograph gallery, and post-office. 

The principal attraction of this Park is the grove of big 
trees. 

Fishing is not very attractive. 

Clothing and equipment should be similar to that used 
in Sequoia National Park. 

459 



Mount Rainier National Park 

Location: West-Central Washington. Area: 324 
square miles. Season: June 15 to September 15. Address 
of Supervisor: Ashford, Washington. 

Mount Rainier National Park includes a single 
great mountain and its approaches, but the Reservation 
offers unlimited variety and enjoyment for every class of 
tourist. An automobile road extends to the very edge of 
the glaciers; trails lead through the fragrant woods and 
wild-flower meadows; rocky outliers of the great moun- 
tain afford endless opportunities for climbing; and the 
great snow-covered peak flings his defiance to those that 
are strong of wind and limb. As the glaciers are only 
four hours' ride by automobile from Tacoma a glimpse of 
these rivers of ice may be obtained in a two-day trip, but 
many days might well be spent in seeing the beauties of 
nature that are grouped in an area that is relatively small. 

Railroad Connections 

The southern portion of the Park — the only part 
developed at present — is reached from Ashford, 6^ miles 
from the Park, on the Tacoma Eastern Railroad, a 
branch line of the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul. The 
round-trip fare from Tacoma to Ashford is $4.00. From 
Ashford automobile stages of the Rainier National Park 
Company run to the principal points on the south side — 
Longmire Springs, 6| miles from the Park entrance; the 
camp at Nisqually Glacier; and the new hotel and camp 
at Paradise Valley, in the very shadow of the mountain. 
This company also operates public automobiles from 
Seattle and Tacoma. 

460 



amount iJlainier l^ational ^atk 

Automobile transportation rates 

Seattle to Longmire Springs and return $9.50 

Seattle to Paradise Valley and return 12.50 

Tacoma to Longmire Springs and return 7.00 

Tacoma to Paradise Valley and return 10.00 

Ashford to Longmire Springs and return 2.00 

Ashford to Paradise Valley and return 5.00 

The northern portion of the Park is reached from Fair- 
fax and Enumclaw, on the Northern Pacific Railway. The 
round-trip fare from Tacoma is $2.50 to Fairfax, and $2.00 
to Enumclaw. There are no transportation lines that 
operate on this side of the Park and arrangements must 
be made for pack-horses and camp outfits. 

Automobile Routes 

There is a good automobile road from Tacoma and 
Seattle to Ashford, and thence through the National 
Forest to Longmire Springs, Nisqually Glacier, and Para- 
dise Valley. For 28 miles from Tacoma the road runs at 
the base of huge timbered bluffs, traverses the Ohop Val- 
ley, and reaches the Park by way of the Nisqually 
Canon. The distance from Tacoma to Longmire Springs 
is 57 miles; from Seattle, 96 miles. 

Automobilists are required to obtain a permit from the 
Park Supervisor at Ashford. The fee for an automobile is 
$4.00 for a single round trip through the Park or $6.00 
for a season permit. The fee for a motor-cycle is $i .00 for 
the season. The regulations provide that automobiles 
and motor-cycles may use the road from the boundary of 
the Park to Longmire Springs only between 6 a.m. and 
9 P.M. ; but no car or motor-cycle is allowed to enter 
the Park or leave Longmire Springs in the direction of the 
western boundary later than 8.30 P.M. Automobiles and 
motor-cycles may use the road from Longmire Springs 
to Paradise Valley only between 6 a.m. and 9.30 p.m.; 
but no machine is allowed to leave Longmire Springs in 
the direction of Paradise Valley later than 7.30 p.m. or 
461 



<0uitie to t|)c i^ational ^axh^ 

depart from Paradise Valley in the direction of Longmire 
Springs before 6 A.M. or later than 7.30 P.M. The speed 
limit ranges from 8 to 15 miles per hour. 

Regular automobile service between the Park and 
Seattle and Tacoma is rendered at the rates given on 
page 461 . 

Hotels and Camps 

At Longmire Springs, 6^ miles from the entrance to the 
Park, are the National Park Inn and Camp and the Long- 
mire Springs Hotel. The rates at the National Park Inn 
are $4.00 and $4.50 per day in the hotel, and $3.75 and 
$4.00 in the camp. The rates at Longmire Springs Hotel 
are $2.50 per day. 

The Rainier National Park Company has a new modern 
hotel (Paradise Inn) in Paradise Park, within easy access 
of the glaciers. The same company also operates a lunch 
pavilion at Paradise Park and camps at Paradise Park, 
Indian Henry's Hunting Ground, and Nisqually Glacier. 

Paradise Inn is operated on both the American and 
European plan at the following rates: — 

American plan: — 

Meals at Inn and bed in tents $3-50 

Meals and room at Inn $3.75 to 6.25 

European plan: — 

Tents $.75 to $1.00 

Rooms 1. 00 to 3.50 

Meals d la carte. 

A discount of 20 per cent is allowed persons remaining 
one week or more. 

There is also a camp at Paradise Park at which tents 
may be obtained for 50 cents per day. These tents are all 
floored and contain a double bed, spring, mattress, wash- 
stand, bowl, pitcher, and chair. Blankets and sheets, pil- 
lows, pillow-cases, and towels may be rented, or the tour- 
ist may bring his own equipment. Meals may be obtained 
at an d la carte lunch pavilion or they may be prepared at 

462 



St^ount iHamier l^ational ^arft 

outdoor cook furnace at the camp. Staple supplies may 
be purchased. 

Rates at camp at Indian Henry's Hunting Ground are: 
bed, $.75; meals, $.75; board per week, $15. 

Rates at camp at Nisqually Glacier are $.75 and $1.00 
per day ; meals a la carte. 

Free public camping grounds are provided at Hansen's 
Camp, Kautz Creek, Longmire Springs, Van Trump 
Park, and Paradise Valley. Firewood and running water 
are available at all these places, but the camper must 
bring his own equipment. 

Trips 

The only road in this Park is the one extending from 
the entrance past Longmire Springs and Nisqually 
Glacier to Paradise Park. All other trips are made on 
horseback or on foot over the network of excellent trails 
that have been cut through the forest. There are no 
regular tours scheduled as in some of the other Parks, 
but special arrangements have to be made for guides and 
horses at the established rates. 

Transportation service within the Park is rendered by 
the Rainier National Park Company, which operates 
automobiles on the road along the south side of the moun- 
tain and has horses for hire at the hotels at Longmire 
Springs and Paradise Valley and the camp at Indian 
Henry's Hunting Ground. 

Transportation rates 

Automobile, Longmire Springs to Nisqually Glacier 

and return $1.00 

Automobile, Longmire Springs to Paradise Valley 

and return 3.00 

Horses, per day 3.50 

The same company also furnishes guides free of charge 
for parties of five or more; if there are less than five per- 
sons in the party the charge for guide is $3.50 per day. 



(Duitie to t^t ^atxoml ^ath^ 

The places listed below by no means exhaust the at- 
tractive spots of this reservation, but are given for the 
benefit of the person whose time is limited. There is a good 
trail encircling the mountain and the circuit may be made 
in about a week. Pack-animals and guides may be ob- 
tained from the Rainier National Park Company. Camp- 
ing outfits should be secured in Seattle or Tacoma. 

On the southern side of the Park Paradise Park, Indian 
Henry's Hunting Ground, and Van Trump Park are the 
most easily reached and consequently the most frequented 
places. As the trails to these places are well defined, 
guides will not be needed. 

Indian Henry's Hunting Ground, 6^ miles from Long- 
mire Springs, is reached by trail only. This trip may be 
made afoot, or ponies may be secured at Longmire Springs 
where the most frequently used of the three trails leading 
to this resort begins. A tent camp is located in Indian 
Henry's Hunting Ground. 

To reach Van Trump Park the same Indian Henry's 
Hunting Ground trail is taken, branching off to the right 
after about i mile of travel. This Park is also reached by 
a trail starting from the Government road at Christine 
Falls, about 4 miles above Longmire Springs, and fol- 
lowing up Van Trump Creek. This is one of the most 
picturesque trails in the Park. From it can be seen beau- 
tiful glimpses of a deep cafion and a succession of cascades 
or falls. 

Ramparts Ridge, i j miles north of Longmire Springs, 
from which a fine view is obtained, is a very popular trip. 
The climb of about 1000 feet can be made in about one 
hour. 

Eagle Peak (elevation 5955 feet), 35 miles east from 
Longmire Springs, is also a popular trip. A good foot 
trail leads directly to the summit, which commands a 
magnificent view of the south side of Mount Rainier and 
the surrounding country. Parties making this trip usually 
take lunch along, and spend several hours at the summit. 

464 



Sl^ount ^Elainier i^ational ^axh 

The Ohanapecosh Valley, with its beautiful Silver 
Spring Falls, is reached by trail only from Longmire 
Springs. This is a trip filled with interest, but should be 
taken only by good riders or pedestrians who are accus- 
tomed to long, hard walks. 

The glaciers may be reached from the hotel in Paradise 
Park and the camp at Nisqually Glacier. The glaciers 
should not be crossed without a guide or unless shoes are 
properly calked. The charge for guide to snow-fields and 
glaciers is $1.50 per person. This charge includes cloth- 
ing and equipment. The minimum charge for guide serv- 
ice is $8.00. 

There are no hotels or camps in the northern portion of 
the Park, and persons visiting this region must have com- 
plete camping outfits and a supply of provisions. Pack- 
horses may be secured by engaging them in advance from 
H. A. Loss, Carbonado, Washington, or from Curtis 
White, Enumclaw, Washington. The entire northern 
side is a wonderful region of mountains and valleys that 
has been visited by only a few tourists. 

A trip to Pinnacle Peak and return may be made from 
Paradise Park in from 6 to 8 hours. The charge for a guide 
is $4.00 per person with a minimum charge of $12.00. 
Clothing and equipment are furnished without extra 
cost. 

Climbing the Mountain^ 
The ascent of the mountain should be attempted only 
by those who have the necessary endurance and who are 
able to climb in the rare air of such an altitude. Unless the 
tourist is hardened from recent outdoor life, he should 
train himself on the peaks of the Tatoosh Range, just to 
the south, or on the other summits that are bare of ice. 
Above all, no person should ever attempt the ascent unless 
accompanied by an experienced guide. There is no record 

' The paragraphs quoted are from an article by Mr. Francois E. 
Mattbes, of the United States Geological Survey. 



<auitie to tlje i^ational ^ath^ 

of any person having perished when accompanied by a 
guide, but the mountain has taken its deadly toil from 
those who dared to make the trip alone. 

" The guide is there not merely to show the way, but to 
tell the tourist how to climb, how fast to go, when to rest 
and to take nourishment, and to take care of him in case 
he is overcome with exhaustion or is taken with moun- 
tain sickness. 

" Finally, account must be taken of the exceeding 
fickleness of the weather conditions on the mountain. 
Only guides familiar with Rainier's many moods can 
presume to foretell whether the day will turn out favorable 
for a climb or not. What may look to the uninitiated like 
harmless, fleecy vapors on the summit may be the fore- 
runners of a sudden snowstorm which no one could hope 
to live through. A majority of those who have perished 
on the mountain have been overcome by blizzard-like 
storms. Such storms may occur even in midsummer, and 
on the summit are always attended by fierce gales against 
which it is impossible to hold one's footing." 

The ascent is generally made from Paradise Park over 
the rocky ridge known as Gibraltar. Paradise Park lies 
near timber-line at an altitude of 5500 feet; as the altitude 
of the summit is 14,408 feet, the total climb is a little 
over 8900 feet in a distance of about 7 miles. The start is 
generally made about i o'clock in the morning in order 
that the return may be made before dark; it is also ad- 
visable to climb beyond the snow-fields before the surface 
becomes softened by the sun. By sunrise one may expect 
to reach the base of the Cowlitz Cleaver at an altitude of 
10,000 feet. 

" The ascent of the Cowlitz Cleaver is quite taxing, 
being mostly over rough, angular lava blocks. By 8 
o'clock, as a rule, the base of Gibraltar Rock is reached. 
A narrow ledge is followed along the face of the cliff, part 
of the way overhung by rock masses and huge icicles, and 
this ledge leads to the base of a narrow chute between 

466 



Sr^ount ^flamier i^ational ^arfe 

the ice of the upper Nisqually Glacier and the body of 
Gibraltar. This chute offers the most serious difficulties 
in the ascent. Ropes are usually suspended from the cliffs, 
whereby one may assist himself upward. It is wise to 
move one at a time, as there is ever danger of the persons 
above starting rock debris and ice fragments that may 
injure those below. The ascent and descent of the chute 
are therefore inevitably time-consuming. Ordinarily the 
saddle above Gibraltar (12,679 ^eet) is not reached until 

10 o'clock. 

" From Gibraltar on there remains only a long snow- 
slope to climb, but this snow-slope is often exceedingly 
fatiguing. Huge, gaping crevasses develop in it which 
must be skillfully avoided by detours. Freshly fallen snow 
may be so deep that one plunges into it to the waist, or 
else the snow may have melted out into tapering spines 
and so-called honeycombs many feet high, among which 
one cannot travel without considerable exertion. 

" The rim of the south crater is usually reached about 

1 1 o'clock. It is always bare of snow, and shelter from the 
high gales many be found behind the great rock blocks 
on the crest. Metal cases are left here in which the tourist 
may inscribe the record of his ascent. 

" The crater is always filled with snow and may be 
traversed without risk; only one should be careful near 
the edges, as the snow there is melted out in caverns by 
the steam jets which rise from beneath it in many places. 
Those having the strength may go on to Columbia Crest, 
the snow dome that constitutes the highest summit of 
the mountain. The return to the camp is easily made in 
from five to six hours." 

The climber should wear woolen underwear, flannel 
shirt, riding-breeches, leggings or puttees, woolen army 
socks, stout shoes well calked, a felt hat, sweater, and 
short warm coat. Women should by all means wear rid- 
ing-breeches, as skirts or bloomers offer too great resist- 
ance to the wind. Women will generally find woolen Boy 

467 



<6uitie to tljc i^ational ^arfe^e? 

Scout stockings best adapted for a trip of this kind; leg- 
gings or puttees may be worn over them as desired. 
Both women and men should tie their hats firmly under 
the chin, in order that the tramper may not be hampered 
by the necessity of holding the hat if the wind is strong. 
Other things needed, which may be procured at the camp 
in Paradise Park, are: alpenstocks, amber glasses, calks, 
hobnails, and actor's paint to protect the face from sun- 
burn. 

" Before starting on the ascent, do not eat such articles 
as fried eggs, fried potatoes, hot cakes, or heavy pastry. 
Abstain from coffee and tobacco, if possible. Spirituous 
liquor of any kind is taboo, except as a stimulant in case 
of collapse. Beef tea, lean meat, all dry breakfast foods, 
cocoa, sweet chocolate, crackers, hardtack, dry bread, 
rice, raisins, prunes, dates, and tomatoes are in order. The 
simpler the diet, on the whole, the more beneficial it is 
likely to be. Never eat much at a sitting during the as- 
cent, but eat often and little at a time. These are rules 
well known to mountaineers. The more faithfully one 
complies with them the higher one's efficiency will be and 
the keener the enjoyment of the trip." 

Guides to the summit of Mount Rainier will be sup- 
plied at the rate of $10.00 per person in parties of not less 
than 5 persons, or minimum charge of $50 for each as- 
cent. An assistant guide will accompany the party when 
it consists of more than 8 tourists. There is an additional 
charge of $2.50 per person for furnishing complete suits 
of clothing, shoes, glasses, alpenstocks, and other neces- 
sary equipment. 

Clothing and Equipment 
Rough and warm clothing should be carried by all 
persons who expect to do much tramping. Suggestions 
are given elsewhere regarding clothing to be worn on a 
climb to the summit. The equipment here described is 
for the climber who travels the trails and climbs the rock 

468 



amount Iltaimer i^ational 5^arft 

ridges. The best equipment for men consists of medium- 
weight woolen underwear, flannel shirt, woolen riding- 
breeches, leggings or puttees, woolen army socks, sweater, 
poncho, and heavy shoes; if rock-climbing is to be done, 
the shoes should be well supplied with hobnails. Women 
should wear light-weight woolen underwear, flannel middy 
blouse, sweater, small felt hat, woolen riding-breeches, 
poncho, woolen stockings, puttees or leggings, sneakers, 
and stout shoes with hobnails if rock-climbing is to be 
done. Many women object to the poncho because of the 
difficulty of getting it over the head ; a good substitute is 
a Boy Scout cape. Felt hats should be worn by men and 
women in preference to cap, as the hat offers better pro- 
tection from the rain. A man's felt hat makes the best 
headgear for a woman. 

Camping outfits must be obtained in Seattle or Ta- 
coma. Provisions may be purchased at Ashford, Longmire 
Springs, Fairfax, Carbonado, and Enumclaw. 

Fishing 

Cutthroat trout are the only fish caught in this Park. 
The fish are not large, but are fairly plentiful. Salmon 
eggs or angle worms are used exclusively for bait. In 
summer the fishing is not good in the streams that flow 
from glaciers, as they are generally muddy at this period. 
A fishing license is not required. 



Crater Lake National Park 

Location: Southwestern Oregon. Area: 249 square 
miles. Season: July i to September 30. Address of Super- 
visor: Crater Lake, Oregon, during season, and Medford, 
Oregon, during the remainder of the year. 

Railroad Connections 

Crater Lake National Park may be reached from 
Medford, Oregon, on the main line of the Southern Pacific 
Railroad between Portland and San Francisco, or from 
Kirk, Oregon, on a branch line of the Southern Pacific 
that leaves the main line at Weed, California. Crater 
Lake is 80 miles from Medford and 30 miles from Kirk. 
During the season passengers holding through tickets 
over the Southern Pacific Railroad between Portland and 
San Francisco may stop over at Medford and resume 
journey at this point ; southbound passengers may stop 
over at Medford, cross the Park, and resume journey at 
Kirk; northbound passengers may take branch line from 
Weed to Kirk, cross the Park, and resume journey at 
Medford. Passengers desiring to make the circuit trip 
should notify the conductor and see that their tickets are 
properly endorsed. 

From Kirk and Medford a tri-weekly automobile serv- 
ice to the Park is given by the Crater Lake Company. 
Passengers stopping off on through tickets must pay for 
their transportation to Crater Lake in accordance with 
the following tariff : — 

Medford to Crater Lake and return $16.50 

One way (either direction) 9.00 

Kirk to Crater Lake and return 6.00 

One way (either direction) 3.50 

Medford to Crater Lake, thence to Kirk, or vice 

versa 11.25 

470 



Crater %akt Ij^ational ^arft 

Automobiles leave the Hotels Medford and Nash, 
Medford, at 9 A.M. Monday, Wednesday, and Friday; 
stop for lunch at Prospect, and reach Crater Lake in 
time for 6 o'clock dinner. Returning, leave Crater Lake 
at 9 A.M. Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, reaching 
Medford in time to connect with the outgoing evening 
trains. 

Automobiles leave Crater Lake for Kirk at 10 a.m. 
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, connecting with the 
local Southern Pacific train from Klamath Falls. Re- 
turning, leave Kirk at I p.m. the same day, and reach 
Crater Lake in about 2 hours. 

The round-trip fare between San Francisco and Crater 
Lake via Kirk is $33.50, including both rail and automo- 
bile stage transportation. 

Automobile Routes 

Motorists southbound from Portland will traverse the 
Pacific Highway through Oregon City, Salem, Albany, 
Eugene, Roseburg, and Grant's Pass to Medford, a dis- 
tance of 312 miles. From Medford the distance to Crater 
Lake is 80 miles. Instead of returning to Medford, the 
tourist may reach the Pacific Highway by way of Klamath 
Falls, a distance of 116 miles. From this point the Pa- 
cific Highway is again followed to San Francisco, passing 
through Hornbrook, Yreka, Montague, Dunsmuir, Delta, 
Redding, Chico, Gridley, Marysville, Sacramento, and 
Stockton; distance 485 miles. 

All motorists entering the Park must pay $2.00 for a 
round-trip permit for each automobile, or $3.00 for a sea- 
son permit; motor-cyclists must pay $1.00 per machine 
for a season permit. The speed limits range from 10 to 20 
miles an hour. 

Trips 

There are no regular tours in this Park; the favorite 
trips being tramps along the rim and to the water's edge 

471 



45uitic to t^t l^ational ^arfejef 

or launch and row-boat excursions on the lake. There 
are a number of other points that are well worth visiting, 
the most important of which are listed below : — 

Distance from Anna Spring Camp {elevation 6,oi6 
feet) to principal points in Park 





Distance 








Name 


and 

direction 

from Anna 

Spring 

Camp 

(miles) 


Elevation 
above 

sea-level 
(feet) 


Best means of 
reaching 


Remarks 


Crater Lake . . 


SN.E 


6177 


Auto or wagon 


Beautiful scenery; 
good fishing 


Wizard Island 


7 N.E 


6940 


Auto and boat 


Extinct volcano; 
crater in summit 


Phantom Ship 


SN.E 


6339 


Auto and boat 


Columns of rock 
162 feet high, re- 
sembling ship 


Pinnacles 


ISE 




Auto or wagon 


Many pinnacles; 
fine scenery; 
good camping 


Anna Creek 




Sooo to 


Auto or wagon 


SCO feet wide, 500 


Canon 


to 8 S.E 


6116 




feet deep; creek 
in bottom; good 
scenery 


Anna Creek 




S480 


Auto or wagon 


Waterfall, 60 feet; 


Falls 


6S.E 






good scenery 


Garden of the 




6000 


Auto or wagon 


Waterfall, mead- 


Gods 


iVz S.E 






ows; creek in 
bottom ; good 
scneery 


Union Peak. . . 


ss.w 


7698 


Horseback 


Fine peak; good 
scenery 


Victor Rock . . 


SN 


7200 


Auto or wagon 


One of the best 
view-points of 
lake 


Watchman 










Peak 


9N 


802s 


Wagon or 
horseback 


Fine scenery 


Glacier Peak.. 


10 N 


8156 


Wagon or 
horseback 


Fine scenery 


Garfield Peak. 


6 N.E 


8060 


Auto and on 

foot 
Horseback 


Fine scenery 


Scott Peak . . . 


12 N.E 


8938 


Highest peak in 

Park 
Beautiful falls 

and magnificent 


Dewey Falls. . 


iy2E 


6000 


Auto road 










canon of solid 










rock 



472 



Crater Hafte l^ational ^arft 

The rates for the transportation that is available are 
given below : — 

Automobile fare between Anna Spring Camp and 

Crater Lake Lodge: — 

One way $.50 

Round trip i.oo 

Automobile transportation, 10 cents per mile within 

the Park. 
Saddle-horses, pack-animals, and burros, per hour. . .50 

Saddle-horses, pack-animals, and burros, per day. . 5.00 

Launch trip, Wizard Island and return, per person. . i.oo 
Launch trip around Wizard Island and Phantom 

Ship and return (about 15 miles), per person. . . . 2.50 

Launch trip around the lake 3.50 

Rowboats, per hour 50 

Rowboats, per day 2.50 

Rowboat, with boat-puller, per hour i.oo 

Rowboat, with detachable motor, per hour i.oo 

Rowboat, with detachable motor, per day 5.00 

Hotel and Camp 

A hotel (Crater Lake Lodge) on the rim of the lake and 
a camp (Anna Spring) five miles below the rim are 
operated by the Crater Lake Company. 

Hotel and Camp Charges 

Crater Lake Lodge : — 

Board and lodging, each person, per 

day (lodging in tents) $3.00 

Board and lodging, each person, per 

week (lodging in tents) 17'50 

Board and lodging, each person, per 

day (hotel) $3.50 and 4.00 

Board and lodging, each person, per 

week (hotel) 20.00 and 22.50 

Baths (extra) .50 

Fires in rooms (extra) .25 

Single meals I.OO 

Anna Spring Tent Camp: — 

Board and lodging, each person, per 

day 2.50 

473 



<l5uttic to tfje i^ational ^arft^ 

Board and lodging, each person, per 

week $15.00 

Meals: Breakfast or lunch, 50 cents; 
dinner, 75 cents. 
Fires in tents (extra) .25 

Children under 12 years, half rates at 

lodge or camp. 

Clothing and Equipment 

If the tourist is going to spend all his time on the rim of 
the lake, ordinary outing clothing with light-weight 
woolen underwear will be sufificient. I f much climbing and 
tramping is to be done, heavy shoes with hobnails should 
be worn. Women should wear short skirts, bloomers, or 
riding-breeches. 

If the tourist expects to camp in the Park, he should 
obtain pack-horses, guides, and equipment at Medford. 
Provisions and general supplies of all kinds may be ob- 
tained at the general store at Anna Spring Camp and the 
branch store at Crater Lake Lodge. 

Fishing 

Originally the lake contained no fish, but it has been 
stocked with rainbow trout and is now one of the best 
fishing places on the West Coast. The best fishing is by 
fly-casting from the shore. Flies used are the Jock Scott, 
black gnat, yellow-bodied cow dung, professor, queen of 
waters, royal coachman, brown hackle, and gray hackle. 
No fishing license is required in this Park. All fish less 
than 8 inches in length must be returned to water. 



Glacier National Park 

Location: Northwestern Montana. Area: 1534 square 
miles. Season: June 15 to October i. Address of Super- 
visor: Belton, Montana. 

Railroad Connections 

Glacier Park is the only National Park that is on the 
main line of a transcontinental railroad — the Great 
Northern. Areas east of the Continental Divide are 
reached from Glacier Park Station, while the portion of 
the Park west of the Divide is accessible from Belton. 

Stopovers are allowed at Glacier Park Station and at 
Belton during the season on all tickets reading through 
these points. Stopovers are also permitted on through 
sleeping-car tickets. Round-trip excursion rates in efifect 
during the season are as follows: Chicago, $48.00; St. 
Louis, $45.00; Kansas City, $37.50; Denver, $35.00; 
Seattle, $26.95; San Francisco, $60.90. Tourists' tickets 
from Denver and points east of that city may be purchased 
to include Yellowstone Park for $10.00 in addition to the 
fares quoted above. All tickets from eastern points may 
be made to read via Denver in one direction without 
extra charge. 

Tourists holding transcontinental tickets reading via 
Northern Pacific Railway should obtain stopover at 
Helena or Butte and purchase excursion tickets to Glacier 
National Park via Great Northern Railway. Fare, 
Helena to Glacier Park and return, $13.15; Butte to 
Glacier Park and return, $13.35. 

Tourists holding transcontinental tickets reading via 
Chicago, Milv/aukee & St. Paul Railway should obtain 
stopover at Butte and purchase excursion ticket to Glacier 
National Park via Great Northern Railway. 

475 



<6uitie to tfje i^ational ^arfe^ 

Automobile Routes 

Tourists traveling on the Yellowstone Highway may 
reach Belton, the western entrance to Glacier Park, from 
Missoula, Montana. The total distance is 167 miles. 
From Yellowstone Park the following routes may be 
taken to Glacier Park : From Gardiner (northern entrance) 
through Livingston, Butte, and Missoula; total distance 
509 miles. From Yellowstone, Montana (western en- 
trance), through Butte and Missoula (482 miles), or 
through Bozeman, Butte, and Missoula (519 miles). 

Hotels and Camps 
In Glacier Park are camp and hotel accommodations 
that range from the teepee to the modern steam-heated 
hostelry. Two hotels — the Glacier Park and the Many 
Glacier — are operated by the Glacier Park Hotel Com- 
pany, whose address is Glacier Park, Montana. The 
Glacier Park Hotel is located at Glacier Park Station, 
while the Many Glacier Hotel is on the shore of Lake 
McDermott, 55 miles to the north by automobile road. 
Both these hotels have been constructed within recent 
years and are modern in every respect. The rates range 
from $4.00 and $4.50 per day, without bath to $5.00 and 
$7.00 per day, with bath. On the shore of Lake Mc- 
Donald is the new Glacier Hotel, owned by J. E. Lewis, 
Lake McDonald, Montana; connected with it are 20 log 
cabins which furnish comfortable accommodations. Rates 
range from $3.00 to $5.00 per day. Other places on Lake 
McDonald are The Park Hotel, address, Belton, Montana; 
rates $2.00 to $3.00 per day ; and the National Park Cabin 
resort, address Belton, Montana; rates $2.00 to $3.00 
per day. The hotels on Lake McDonald are reached by 
stage from Belton to the lake, thence by launch. The Na- 
tional Park Cabin resort is at the foot of the lake and the 
launch trip is not necessary. Chalets are maintained by 
the Glacier Park Hotel Company at or near Two Medicine 

476 




18/ 

20 



TRAVEL-GUIDE MAP 

OF THE 

GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 
MONTANA 

SCALE OF MILES 



After TopofeTaphic Map of Glacier National 
Park by the U.S. Geological Survey 



CONTINENTAL DIVIDE 

LEWIS OVBRTHRUST FAULT. 



L.L.POATES ENGR'G CO., 




Bn perm isf ton of the yulional I'ark Service, Department of the Interior 



-% 



(Blatitx l^ational ^arft 

Lake, Cut Bank River, the lower end of St. Mary Lake 
(St. Mary Chalets) , the narrows of St. Mary Lake (Going- 
to-the-Sun-Chalets), Lake McDermott (Many Glacier 
Chalets), Granite Park, Sperry Glacier, and Belton Sta- 
tion. Rates at the chalet groups are uniformly $3.00 
per day. Each of these chalet groups consists of log or 
stone buildings, attractively grouped, in the vicinity of 
a central structure used for a dining- and lounging-room. 
Most of the dormitory chalets have one or more attrac- 
tive lounging-rooms, equipped with large stone fireplaces. 
The service is less conventional than at the hotels, the aim 
being to furnish clean, comfortable beds, plain food, well 
cooked, plenty of it, and served in family style. 

Teepee camps are maintained by the Glacier Park 
Hotel Company at or near Two Medicine Lake, Cut Bank 
River, lower end of St. Mary Lake, narrows of St. Mary 
Lake, and Lake McDermott. All these teepee camps are 
near the chalets in the same locality; the rates are uni- 
formly 50 cents a person a night. 

All teepee camps are equipped with cookstove and 
cooking-utensils and dishes for serving meals. Food may 
be purchased at reasonable prices at the near-by chalets, 
the tourist being permitted the free use of the range, 
cooking-utensils, and dishes. 

All teepees are wooden floored and each equipped with 
two single cot beds and bedding. They will be found very 
comfortable by those who desire to enjoy an inexpensive 
outing. 

The only place in the extreme western portion of the 
Park where accommodations may be obtained is at 
Adairs, on Flathead River, about 2 miles south of Log- 
ging Creek, 

Rooms with bath and bathing facilities for tourists 
occupying rooms without baths are provided at the 
Glacier Park Hotel and Many Glacier Hotel. There is a 
large plunge pool at the Glacier Park Hotel. Detached 
shower and tub baths are provided at Two Medicine, St. 

477 



<i3uitie to tl)e i^ational ^atU^ 

Mary, Going-to-the-Sun, Many Glacier, and Belton 
Chalets, for which a charge of 50 cents per bath is 
made. 

The distances between the hotels and chalets are as fol- 
lows: — 

Miles 

Glacier Park Hotel to 

Two Medicine Chalets, road 12 

Two Medicine Chalets, trail n 

Cut Bank Chalets, road 22 

St. Mary Chalets, road 32 

Many Glacier Hotel, road 55 

Two Medicine Chalet to 

Glacier Park Hotel, road 12 

Glacier Park Hotel, trail 1 1 

Cut Bank Chalets, trail 18 

Cut Bank Chalet to 

Glacier Park Hotel, road 22 

Two Medicine Chalets, trail 18 

St. Mary Chalets, trail and road 16 

St. Mary Chalets to 

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, launch 8 

Cut Bank Chalets, road and trail 16 

Many Glacier Hotel and Chalets, road 23 

Many Glacier Hotel and Chalets, trail 16 

Glacier Park Hotel, road 32 

Many Glacier Hotel and Chalets to 

St. Mary Chalets, road 23 

St. Mary Chalets, trail l6 

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, trail 22 

Granite Park Chalets, trail 9 

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets to 

St. Mary Chalets, launch 8 

Many Glacier Hotel and Chalets, trail 22 

Sperry Chalets, trail 17 

Sperry Chalets to 

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets 17 

Glacier Hotel on Lake McDonald, trail 7 

Glacier Hotel, on Lake McDonald, to 

Sperry Chalet, trail 7 

Granite Park Chalets, trail 18 

Granite Park Chalets to 

Many Glacier Hotel and Chalets, trail 9 

Glacier Hotel, on Lake McDonald, trail 18 

478 



<Blatm i^ational ^arh 

Tours 

From Glacier Park Station an automobile road leads 
to St. Mary Chalets and Many Glacier Hotel and Chalets, 
with side roads to Cut Bank and Two Medicine Chalets. 
From Belton there is an automobile road to the foot of 
Lake McDonald. There is also a wagon road along Flat- 
head River from the foot of Lake McDonald to the north- 
ern border of the Park. There is no road across the Con- 
tinental Divide, and all trips in the mountain region 
must be by trail. 

Transportation between Glacier Park Hotel, Two 
Medicine Chalets, Cut Bank Chalets, St. Mary Chalets, 
and Many Glacier Hotel and Chalets is by automobile. 
There is launch service on St. Mary Lake between the 
St. Mary and Going-to-the-Sun Chalets and on Lake 
McDonald between the foot of the lake and the hotels 
near the head. There is also a trail between Going-to-the- 
Sun and St. Mary Chalets, on Lake St. Mary, as well as 
between the foot of Lake McDonald and the hotels at the 
head of the lake. Trails furnish the only means of com- 
munication between the other chalet groups and between 
the chalets and the hotels on Lake McDonald. On the 
trails the only transportation is on horseback or afoot. 
The following rates are authorized in the Park: — 

One way 
Automobile fare between — 

Glacier Park Hotel and St. Mary Chalets $3.50 

Glacier Park Hotel and Many Glacier Hotel . . . 6.50 
St. Mary Chalets and Many Glacier Hotel. . . . 3.00 
Glacier Park Hotel to Two Medicine Chalets. . 1.50 
Belton and Lake McDonald 50 

There is no regular automobile service to Cut Bank 
Chalets; a rate of $5.00 for the round trip is made for a 
minimum of 4 fares. 

Launch rates are as follows: — 

Between chalets on St. Mary Lake $.75 

Between points on Lake McDonald 75 

479 



(Buiht to t^e i^ational ^arfe^ 

Guides, saddle- and pack-horses can be secured from 
the Park Saddle-Horse Company, at Glacier Park Sta- 
tion, Many Glacier Hotel, Going- to- the-Sun Chalets, Gla- 
cier Hotel, and Lake McDonald at the following rates: 

Per day 

Parties of i to 5 people: 

Saddle- and pack-horses, each $3.00 

Guides, including horse and board 5.00 

Parties of 6 or more people: — 

Saddle- and pack-horses, each 3.00 

Guides, including horse and board 3.00 

Park rules require i guide for every 10 persons or frac- 
tion of 10. Pack-horses are not needed for short one-day 
trips, but are necessary for long trips of several days. 
One pack-horse will carry the dunnage of 10 people. 

All saddle-horses are required to be equipped with 
waterproof slickers, which outfitters supply free. 

Glacier National Park contains many beautiful camp- 
ing-spots, and camping tours independent of hotels or 
chalets are popular for tourists who like to "rough it." 
The Park Saddle-Horse Company will furnish complete 
outfits at following prices for trips of 10 or more days: — 

Rates for complete camping tours 

Cost per day 
per person 

1 person - $25.00 

2 persons 15-75 

3 persons 12.65 

4 persons 12.40 

5 persons 1 1.30 

6 persons 10.60 

7 persons 10.00 

8 persons 9.70 

9 persons 9.60 

10 persons or more 9.50 

The above rates include the necessary guides, cooks, 
saddle-horses, pack-horses, provisions, tents, cooking- 
utensils, stoves, and everything except blankets. Tourists 

480 



^Blatitt i^ational ^arft 

are advised to bring their own blankets or bedding, or 
they can rent blankets from the outfitters at $i.oo per 
pair. 

The rates below are for the most popular trips that 
are taken. In all cases meals and lodgings will be extra 
at the hotels, chalets, or teepees at the regular rate: — 

One-day trips: — 

Glacier Park Hotel to Two Medicine Chalets by 

automobile, and return $3.00 

Glacier Park Hotel to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets by 

automobile and launch, and return 8.50 

Glacier Park Hotel to Mount Henry and return, 

horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 

Many Glacier Hotel to Iceberg Lake and return, 

horseback 3.50 

Many Glacier Hotel to Grinnell Lake and return, 

afternoon trip, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 3.50 

Many Glacier Hotel to Grinnell Glacier and return, 

horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 

Many Glacier Hotel to Cracker Lake and return, 

horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 

Many Glacier Hotel to Granite Park Chalets and 

return, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.50 

Many Glacier Hotel to Ptarmigan Lake and return, 

horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 3.50 

Many Glacier Hotel to Morning Eagle Falls and 

return, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 

Many Glacier Hotel to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets 

via Piegan Pass, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 

St. Mary Chalets to Red Eagle Lake and return, 

horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets to Roe's Basin and re- 
turn, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets to Sexton Glacier and 

return, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 3.50 

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets to Gunsight Lake and 

return, horseback (minimum 3 persons) 4.00 

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets to Many Glacier Hotel 

via Piegan Pass, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 

Head of Lake McDonald to Sperry Glacier and 
Sperry Chalets and return, horseback (mini- 
mum, 3 persons) 4.00 

Head of Lake McDonald to Lincoln Peak and re- 
turn, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 

481 



45uitie to t^t i^^tional ^arfe^ 

Head of Lake McDonald to Avalanche Basin and 

return, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) $4.00 

Head of Lake McDonald to Snyder Lake and re- 
turn, horseback (minimum, 3 persons) 4.00 

Two-day trips: — 

Glacier Park Hotel to Many Glacier Hotel and St. 
Mary and Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, and return, 
automobile, and launch 14-50 

Glacier Park Hotel to Two Medicine Chalets via 
road or Mount Henry trail, and return (mini- 
mum, 3 persons) 8.00 

Many Glacier Hotel to Granite Park Chalets and 

return, horseback 8.00 

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets to Glacier Hotel on Lake 

McDonald, horseback (minimum, 5 persons) . . . 8.00 

Head of Lake McDonald to Going-to-the-Sun Cha- 
lets, horseback (minimum, 5 persons) 8.00 

Three-day trips: — 

Glacier Park Hotel to St. Mary Chalets, Many 
Glacier Hotel, Iceberg Lake, and Going-to-the- 
Sun Chalets and return, automobile, horseback, 
and launch 18.OO 

Glacier Park Hotel to Two Medicine Chalets, 
Mount Morgan Pass, Cut Bank Chalets, Triple 
Divide Peak, Red Eagle Lake, and St. Mary 
Chalets, horseback (minimum, 5 persons) 13-25 

St. Mary Chalets to Glacier Park Hotel, reverse of 

preceding trip (minimum, 5 persons) 13-25 

Four-day trip: — 

Glacier Park Hotel to St. Mary Chalets, Many 
Glacier Hotel, Iceberg Lake, Granite Park Cha- 
lets, Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, St. Mary Chalets 
and return to Glacier Park Hotel, automobile, 
horseback, and launch 22.50 

Five-day trips: — 

Glacier Park Hotel to Many Glacier Hotel, Iceberg 
Lake, Granite Park Chalets, Going-to-the-Sun 
Chalets, St. Mary Chalets, and return to Glacier 
Park Hotel, automobile, horseback, and launch 26.00 

Glacier Park Hotel to Two Medicine Chalets, 
Mount Morgan Pass, Cut Bank Chalets, Triple 

482 



<B\atxtt i^ational ^arii 

Divide Peak, Red Eagle Lake, St. Mary Chalets, 
Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, Piegan Pass, and 
Many Glacier Hotel, horseback (minimum. 5 
persons) $18.00 

Many Glacier Hotel to Glacier Park Hotel, reverse 

of preceding trip (minimum, 5 persons) 18.00 

Going-to-the-Sun Chalets to Piegan Pass, Many 
Glacier Hotel, Swift Current Pass, Granite Park 
Chalets, Garden Wall Trail, Glacier Hotel on 
Lake McDonald, Sperry Glacier, Sperry Chalets, 
Gunsight Pass, and return to Going-to-the-Sun 
Chalets (this trip cannot be taken until the com- 
pletion of the new trail over the Garden Wall, 
about August i, 1917; minimum, 5 persons). . . 20.00 

Many Glacier Hotel over route described above 
and return to Many Glacier (minimum, 5 per- 
sons) 20.00 

Hotels at head of Lake McDonald over route de- 
scribed above and return to head of Lake 
McDonald (minimum, 5 persons) 20.00 

Six-day trip: — 

Glacier Park Hotel to St. Mary Chalets, Many 
Glacier Hotel, Iceberg Lake, Granite Park Cha- 
lets, Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, Sexton Glacier, 
and return to Glacier Park Hotel; automobile, 
launch, and saddle-horse 30.70 

Seven-day trip: — 

Glacier Park Hotel to Many Glacier Hotel, Iceberg 
Lake, Granite Park Chalets, Cracker Lake, 
Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, Sexton Glacier, and 
return to Glacier Park Hotel, automobile, saddle- 
horse, and launch 34-70 

Points of Interest 

Miles 

Reached from Glacier Park Hotel : — 

Mount Henry, trail 7 

Reached from Two Medicine Chalets: — 

Trick Falls, road 2 

Upper Two Medicine Lake, trail or boat and trail 4 

Bighorn Basin, trail 4 

Dawson Pass, trail 6 

Mount Henry, trail 4 

483 



<auilie to tlje l^ational ^ath^ 

Maes 

Reached from Cut Bank Chalets: — 

Red Eagle Lake, trail i6 

Cut Bank Pass, trail 7 

Triple Divide Peak, trail 8 

Reached from St. Mary Chalets: — 

Red Eagle Lake, trail 8 

Red Eagle Pass and Glacier, trail 16 

Reached from Going-to-the-Sun Chalets: — 

Roe's Basin, poor trail 6 

Sexton Glacier, trail 4 

Piegan Pass, trail 12 

Reached from Many Glacier Hotel: — 

Appekung Basin, trail 4 

Iceberg Lake, trail 7 

Cracker Lake, trail 7 

Grinnell Lake, trail 5 

Footpath to Grinnell Glacier 2 miles from 
Grinnell Lake. 

Piegan Pass and Garden Wall, trail 10 

Swift Current Pass, trail 7 

Ptarmigan Lake, trail 7 

Morning Eagle Falls 5 

Reached from Glacier and Park Hotels at Head of Lake 

McDonald: — 
Paradise Canon, trail; 4 miles from Glacier Hotel, 

2 miles from Park Hotel. 
Avalanche Basin, trail; 9 miles from Glacier Hotel, 

7 miles from Park Hotel. 
Trout Lake, trail; 8 miles from Glacier Hotel, 9 miles 

from Park Hotel. 
Stanton Mountain, trail to the summit; 7 miles from 

Glacier Hotel, 5 miles from Park Hotel. 
Snyder Lake, trail ; 4 miles from Glacier Hotel, 6 miles 

from Park Hotel. 

The Glaciers 

The most accessible glaciers are the Blackfeet and the 
Sperry, both of which are on the trail leading from St. 
Mary Lake to Lake McDonald. 

Blackfeet Glacier is 2 miles by trail from Gunsight 

Lake. This is the largest glacier in the Park, having an 

area of 3 square miles. The glacier is especially dangerous 

in the vicinity of the upper cascades. Visitors are not 

484 



<iBlacier i^ational ^arft 

allowed to go upon it unless accompanied by competent 
guides, who should be supplied with ropes, belts, creepers, 
alpenstocks, and emergency equipment. Each visitor to 
the glacier should have an alpenstock or stout stick 6 or 
7 feet long. The alpenstock should be used to sound for 
blind crevasses, and in case a person breaks through the 
ice the alpenstock should be thrown across the crevasse in 
order to prevent a fall to the bottom. 

Sperry Glacier is 2 miles by trail from Sperry Chalets. 
While the trail is steep, horses may be used to the foot of 
the escarpment under the south rim of the glacier; walk- 
ing is recommended. The escarpment may be climbed by 
means of an iron ladder bolted to the rock, or by way of 
zigzag goat trails. Whichever method of ascent is at- 
tempted, visitors should be accompanied by competent 
guides provided with ropes. While this glacier is less 
broken than Blackfeet Glacier, explorations should not 
be attempted without a guide. 

Clothing and Other Equipment 

As the most beautiful portions of Glacier Park are 
reached only by traveling on horseback or afoot, it is 
imperative that the tourist limit his equipment to the 
articles absolutely necessary for comfort. Trunks and 
other heavy equipment should be left at Glacier Park 
Station or Belton, as only one piece of baggage, weighing 
not over 20 pounds, is carried free on the automobile 
stages. As the altitude is high, the tourist should be 
prepared for cool weather. The following equipment is 
recommended: Woolen riding-breeches, flannel shirts, 
medium- or light-weight woolen underwear, woolen army 
socks, good walking-shoes, leggings or puttees, sneakers, 
gloves, saddle slicker, and a felt hat (a hat is preferable to 
a cap for use in rainy weather) ; a poncho or other water- 
proof coat should be taken if the tourist is going to walk; 
slickers are provided with the horses. The best equip- 
ment for a woman consists of flannel middy blouse, woolen 

48s 



<6uttie to tl^e l^attonal ^atk^ 

riding-breeches, woolen Boy Scout stockings, a man's 
felt hat, and the other articles listed above. Women that 
object to the poncho because of the difficulty in getting 
it over the head will find a Boy Scout cape a good sub- 
stitute. 

Essential articles of clothing, including boots, shoes, 
haversacks, slickers, blankets, camping equipment, pro- 
visions, etc., may be purchased at commissaries at 
Glacier Park Station and at St. Mary and Many Glacier 
Chalets. The Glacier Park Hotel Company, which 
operates these commissaries, also makes a practice of rent- 
ing, at a nominal figure, slickers, riding-breeches, mack- 
inaw coats, and other overgarments. 

Stores carrying a similar general line of articles most 
useful in making Park trips are located at Belton, Mon- 
tana, the western entrance to the Park, and at Glacier 
Hotel (Lewis's), at the head of Lake McDonald. A stock 
of clothing, general merchandise, and camp equipment 
is carried at Adair's, on the Flathead River, about 2 miles 
south of Logging Creek. 

The Glacier Park Hotel Company operates a laundry 
at Glacier Park Hotel, at which complete laundry facili- 
ties are provided for guests. Tourists at Many Glacier 
Hotel, Many Glacier, St. Mary and Going-to-the-Sun 
Chalets can, if they desire, have their laundry sent out to 
Glacier Park Station. 

Fishing 

There is fine fishing in almost all the streams and lakes 
of Glacier Park, the gamest fish being the cutthroat 
trout, also known as the black-spotted and native. The 
rainbow, Dolly Varden, mountain, and Eastern brook 
trout are also found in the waters of the Park. The best 
fishing is in Two Medicine Lake and River, Cut Bank 
River, Red Eagle Lake and Creek, St. Mary Lake and 
River and the tributary streams. Cracker Lake, Canon 
Creek, McDermott Lake, and tributary streams, Swift 

486 



oBlacicr l^ational ^arh 

Current River below McDermott Falls, McDonald Lake 
and Creek, Avalanche, Bowman, Logging, Trout, and 
Arrow Lakes, and Flathead River and its tributaries. The 
flies generally used are the black gnat, professor, brown 
and gray hackle, royal coachman, queen of waters, Jock 
Scott, and silver doctor. The trout rise to the fly during 
June, July, and August; July and August being the best 
months. Early in June and in September spinners with 
meat bait or salmon eggs are used. Flies and tackle may 
be purchased at Glacier Park Hotel, Many Glacier Hotel, 
and Glacier Hotel on Lake McDonald. 

The Mackinaw or lake trout are found only in Lake St. 
Mary. They are caught with a spoon or with a combina- 
tion of spoon and bait, as they seldom rise to the fly. 

A fishing license is not required. 



Mesa Verde National Park 

Location: Southwestern Colorado. Area: 77 square 
miles. Season: June 15 to September 15. Address of 
Supervisor: Mancos, Colorado. 

Railroad Coiinections 
Mesa Verde National Park is on the narrow-gauge 
division of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, and is best 
reached from Mancos, Colorado, 31 miles from the camp 
in the Park. Although this Park is farther from the main 
transcontinental railroad lines than any of the other 
Parks, the railroad route through the San Juan Moun- 
tains is one of great scenic beauty. The routes and fares 
from Denver are as follows: — 

Denver to Mancos via Alamosa, and Antonito, return- 
ing same route, or returning via Telluride and Gun- 
nison, $25.00. 
Denver to Mancos via Alamosa and Antonito, return- 
ing via Durango, Silverton, Ouray Toll Road, Ouray, 
Montrose, and Gunnison, $30.40. 
The automobile fare from Mancos to the camp is $10.00 
for the round trip. 

The trip from Denver to Mancos requires about 40 
hours, one night being spent on the road and one night in 
Durango, or Telluride, or Montrose. 

Passengers holding transcontinental tickets via Denver 
& Rio Grande Railroad may obtain stopovers at Grand 
Junction on the standard-gauge line, or at Montrose on 
the narrow gauge line, and make side trip to Mancos at 
the following rates: — 

Grand Junction to Mancos and return via Telluride, 
$23.30. 

488 



^t^a l^txht l^ational ^arft 

Montrose to Mancos and return via Telluride, $18.90, 
Passengers holding transcontinental tickets via Denver 
& Rio Grande Railroad may make the trip between Den- 
ver and Grand Junction by way of Mancos on payment 
of $20.00 additional. 

Automobile Routes 

From Denver the best route is by way of Colorado 
Springs, Pueblo, Walsenburg, Alamosa, South Fork, 
Durango, and Mancos; distance, about 400 miles. Permit 
for an automobile costs 50 cents for a single trip or $2.00 
for the season. The speed limits range from 10 to 15 miles 
per hour. 

Camp 
There is only one camp in Mesa Verde National Park, 
at Spruce Tree House. This camp is maintained by O. L. 
Jeep, and the rates are $3.00 per day. Guides and camp- 
ing outfits may be obtained at Mancos. 

Trips 

There are no regular tours in this Park, as trips to the 
ruins are made on foot from the camp near Spruce Tree 
House. The distance to the important ruins are as 
follows; 

Distance and 
direction 

Spruce Tree House i mile W. 

Cliff Palace 2 miles S.E. 

Balcony House 25 miles S.E. 

Community House 2 miles S.E. 

Poole Canon 4 miles S. 

Peabody House 3 miles S.W. 

Long House 2| miles S.W. 

Tunnel House 6 miles S. 

Sun Temple 2 miles S. 

The three principal ruins are Spruce Tree House, Cliflf 
Palace, and Sun Temple. 

489 



<Bmtit to tljc ipationa! ^arfejtf 

Clothing 

Ordinary clothing may be worn, as there are no ex- 
tended trips or hard climbs. As the nights are cool, a 
sweater or light overcoat will be convenient. As the auto 
stages carry only 50 pounds of baggage free, arrangements 
should be made to store all heavy pieces at Mancos. Such 
pieces may be taken to the Park by special arrangements 
with the auto stage company. 



Rocky Mountain National Park 

Location: North-central Colorado. Area: 358 square 
miles. Season: June i to October i. Address of Super- 
visor: Estes Park, Colorado. 

Railroad Connections 

Rocky Mountain National Park is the easternmost 
of the great scenic Parks and the most accessible to per- 
sons in the East, as its eastern border is only a few hours 
from Denver. 

The town of Estes Park, which is just east of the Na- 
tional Park, and which is the starting-place for all points 
in the eastern portion of the Park, may be reached from 
Denver by automobile or by train and automobile. The 
trip may be made by motor in one direction and by rail- 
road and automobile in the other. The fare is $9.60 for the 
round trip by any of the routes. The railroad routes are 
by the Union Pacific to Fort Collins or Greeley, thence 
by automobile ; by the Colorado & Southern to Boulder, 
Loveland, Longmont or Fort Collins; and by the Burling- 
ton by way of Longmont or Lyons. The western portion 
of the Park may be reached from Granby, on the Denver 
& Salt Lake Railroad. Round trip from Denver, $8.10. 
From Granby stages run to the town of Grand Lake, 
which is just outside the Park. Round trip fare from 
Granby, $3.50. 

Tourist rates to Denver are as follows: From Chicago, 
$32.50; from St. Louis, $27.50. 

Automobile Routes 
From the Lincoln Highway the best route is by way of 
Greeley and Loveland. Distances: Cheyenne to Greeley, 
491 



(Duitie to ti)t i^ational ^atk0 

55.2 miles; Greeley to Estes Park, 54.5 miles. There are 
two routes from Denver — via Longmont and Lyons, 

69.3 miles, and via Boulder, Boulder Canon, and Lyons, 
73.3. The best scenery is along the Boulder route. 

Hotels 

All the hotels in the Park are along the eastern bound- 
ary near the town of Estes Park; there are also other 
hotels outside the Park and near the tovvn. The camps 
within the Park and the rates are as follows: — 

Lawn Lake, Bradley & Patrick 13-25 a day 

Bear Lake, A. E. Brown 2.50 a day 

Glacier Basin, A. E. Sprague 2.50 a day 

Fern Lodge, F. W. Byerly 2.50 a day 

On Thompson River, Byerly and Rogers 2.50 a day 

At timber line on trail to Long's Peak, Enos A. 

Mills 3.25 a day 

The address of all these camps is Estes Park, Colorado. 

The rates at the hotels near Estes Park are as fol- 
lows : — 

Brinwood Hotel . . . $2.50 to $3.50 a day; $12 to $20 a week 

Brown Tea Pot Inn $2 to I4 a day; ii2 to $25 a week 

Columbines Hotel ^3 a day; ^14 to $20 a week 

Elkhorn Lodge $3 a day and up; $16 a week and up 

Fall River Lodge I2.50 to $4 a day; $12 to $25 a week 

Forks Hotel $2 a day; $10 a week 

Hewes-Kirkwood Ranch.. !?2 to $3 a day; $14 to $18 a week 

Horizon Hotel $2 to $3 a day; $12 to $18 a week 

Horseshoe Inn $2.50 to $4 a day; $12 to $25 a week 

Hupp Hotel $3 a day; $12 to $15 a week 

Lester Hotel $2.50 to $3-50 a day; $12 to $20 a week 

Lewiston Hotel I3 to $5 a day; $20 to $35 a week 

Long's Peak Inn. . . $3.50 to $6.50 a day; $15 to $40 a week 

Moraine Lodge $2.50 a day; $12 to $20 a week 

Park Hotel $2 to $3-50 a day; $10 to $20 a week 

Rockdale Hotel $2 to $3 a day; $1 1 to $20 a week 

Stanley Hotel $4 a day and up 

Stead's Ranch and Hotel $11 to $16 a week 

The Crags $2.50 to $5 a day; $14 to $35 a week 

492 



Scale Of Miles 




R.B.M&rsball. Chief Geogr&pher. U.B- Qeolj>gicaI Surve; 
Eastern bounJary correoted to include aUditioD in 1917 
50 ' 105" 40' 



lliochp i^ountam i^ational ^atrft 

The following hotels are at Grand Lake near the west- 
ern boundary of the Park: — 

Lehman's Hotel $2.00 a day 

Langles Hotel 2.00 a day 

Kauffman House 2.50 a day 

Narwata Hotel 2.50 a day 

The Rapid Hotel 2.50 a day 

Trips 

There are no scheduled trips in this Park and special 
arrangements must be made. Horses cost $2.50 a day. 
The most important trips are the following: — 

Miles 
From Estes Park to 

Hallett Glacier 11.25 

Lawn Lake 8.8 

Specimen Mountain 20.2 

Fern Lake 10.25 

Sprague Glacier 13.5 

Bear Lake 8.5 

Black Lake 12.0 

Flat-Top Mountain 11.2 

Loch Vale 10.5 

Glacier Gorge 10.2 

Long's Peak 15.5 

Chasm Lake 13.4 

From Grand Lake to 

East Inlet (Lake Verna) 7.5 

Flat-Top Mountain 12.5 

Specimen Mountain 16.5 

Nanita Lake 8.25 

Fishing 

There is good fishing for native, Eastern brook, and 
rainbow trout in the lower portions of all the streams and 
in some of the lakes, although the fish are small. The best 
lakes are Lawn, Fern, and Odessa. Early in the season 
during high water the fish will take worms only. The flies 
generally used later are the coachman, royal coachman, 

493 



4Bmtit to tl)c il^ational ^^arfejf 

brown hackle, and gray hackle. Grasshoppers are used 
when they can be obtained. Fishermen must obtain 
Colorado fishing license costing $i for residents of the 
State and $2 for non-residents. Licenses may be obtained 
in Estes Park. 



The Grand Canon 

Location: Northern Arizona. Area of reservation: 
1 260 square miles. Season : Throughout the year. Address 
of Supervisor of Tusayan National Forest: Williams, 
Arizona. 

Railroad Connections 

The Grand Canon is reached by a branch line of the 
Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad extending from 
Williams, Arizona, to Grand Canon Station, almost at the 
edge of the plateau. The round-trip excursion fare from 
Williams is $7.50; stopovers being allowed on both rail- 
road and Pullman tickets. Some trains carry through 
sleeper to the Canon. 

Round-trip fares are as follows: From Chicago, $80.00; 
from St. Louis, $72.00; from Kansas City, $60.00; from 
Denver, $55.00. 

Automobile Routes 

The Grand Canon may be reached by automobile from 
Flagstaff and Williams. Westbound tourists turn north 
at Flagstaff, reach the Canon at Grand View Hotel, follow 
the rim to El Tovar, and reach the main road at Williams. 
Distances: Flagstaff to Grand View, 71.5 miles; Grand 
View to El Tovar, 13.2 miles; El Tovar to Williams, 63.4 
miles. 

Hotels and Camps 

El Tovar is located at the railroad terminus, not far 
from the head of Bright Angel Trail. Rates are $4.00 and 
$4.50 a day, without bath, and $6.00 and upwards a day, 

495 



<«5uitie to t^t i^ational ^arft^ 

with bath. Bright Angel Cottages, adjacent to the hotel, 
are operated on the European plan, and rates for rooms 
are $1.25 to $1.50 a day; meals may be obtained k la 
carte at the caf6. In summer several large tents are used 
in addition to the cottages. 

Trips 

As the Grand Canon is not a National Park there is no 
way to license the individuals offering horses for hire. 
Tourists are advised to arrange with the transportation 
department of El Tovar Hotel for all trips into and near 
the Canon. By doing this the tourist is assured of good 
service and responsible guides. 

A fine road has been built along the rim of the Canon 
from El Tovar Hotel westward for about 7^ miles to the 
head of the Hermit Trail. There is also a road running 
2 miles eastward along the rim from El Tovar to Yavapai 
Point. A third road runs eastward 13 miles to Grand 
View; the western half of this road is through the forest, 
while the eastern end is along the Canon rim. There are 
three trails into the Canon — Bright Angel Trail, starting 
near El Tovar Hotel; Hermit Trail, starting 9 miles to 
the west, and Grand View Trail, 13 miles to the east. 

The following trips by coach are made daily from El 
Tovar: — 

To Hopi Point on Hermit Rim Road, 2 miles to the west 
and return: 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., $1.00; sunset trip, $1.50. 

To Mohave Point on Hermit Rim Road, 3 miles to the 
west and return: 9 a.m. and 2 p.m., $2.00. Hopi Point 
is passed on this drive. 

To head of Hermit Trail on Hermit Rim Road, 75 miles 
to the west and return: 9 a.m. and 2 p.m., $3.00. Stops 
are made en route at Hopi, Mohave, and Pima Points. 
From October i to May i, the afternoon trip starts at 
2.30, and the rate is $4.00 on account of the additional 
time spent at Hopi Point to view the sunset. 

To Yavapai and Grandeur Points, 2 miles to the east: 
10.15 a.m., $1.00 

496 



€{)e 4B»ranti €anon 

Bright Angel Trail starts near El Tovar Hotel and ex- 
tends to the river, 7 miles distant. There is also a branch 
leading to the plateau at the top of the granite wall, 1272 
feet above the river. There are three distinct trips made 
on the Bright Angel Trail: To the river, 8.30 a.m., round 
trip, $5.00; to the Plateau, 10.30 a.m., round trip, $4.00; 
to the river and Plateau, 8 a.m., round trip, $6.00. If less 
than three persons make the trip, there is an additional 
charge of $5.00 for a guide for the party. All three trips 
are made on muleback, accompanied by a guide, and each 
trip requires an entire day. 

Hermit Trail is a new path that extends from Hermit 
Rim Road to the Colorado River. At present horses can 
be used only as far as Hermit Camp on the plateau at the 
head of the granite wall, but there is a footpath from the 
camp to the river. The following trips may be made to 
points on the Hermit Trail : — 

One-day trip: — 

El Tovar to Santa Maria Spring on Hermit Trail, round 
trip $7.00; guide extra. 
Two-day trip: — 

El Tovar to Hermit Camp, round trip $15.00, which in- 
cludes guide, horse, accommodations, and supper, 
breakfast and lunch at camp. The return trip may be 
made by way of Bright Angel Trail for $7.00 additional 
for each person. 

Boucher Trail is west of and opposite Hermit Trail. 
This trip is on horseback or by wagon on the Hermit Rim 
Road as far as the head of Hermit Trail, then on horse- 
back to Boucher Trail and down that trail to Boucher's 
Camp at Dripping Springs, 900 feet below the rim. The 
Boucher Trail continues to the river, but it is not possible 
to make the round trip to a point farther than Dripping 
Springs, when lunch is eaten: El Tovar to Dripping 
Springs and return, $4.00 each for three or more persons; 
if there are less than 3 persons, an extra charge of $5.00 is 
made for a guide. 

497 



(iBuitie to tt^t i^ational ^ath0 

The following regular trips may be made by automo- 
bile:— 

Grand View, 13 miles, 9.30 a.m. and 2 p.m., round trip 
$4.00. 

Desert View, 32 miles, 8 a.m., $30.00 for one to three per- 
sons; each person over three, $10.00 additional. 

Many camping trips into the Canon and along the rim 
may be taken if time is available. From October to April, 
camping should be confined to the Caiion itself, but from 
April to October camping trips may be planned to in- 
clude both the rim region and the Canon. The rates for 
camping trips range from $10.00 to $15.00 a day for one 
person with $6.00 to $8.00 a day extra for each additional 
person. The rates quoted are for guides, animals, and 
camp equipment: Three-day trip down Hermit Trail and 
up Bright Angel Trail, distance 34 miles, rate $14.00 a 
day for one person, $8.00 a day extra for each additional 
person. Provisions are extra. 

Another three-day trip is to the Havasupai Indian Vil- 
lage in Cataract Caiion. The distance is about 50 miles 
in each direction, 35 miles by wagon and 15 miles on 
horseback. The round trip from El Tovar costs $15.00 a 
day for one person and $5.00 a day extra for each addi- 
tional member of the party. These rates include all ser- 
vices as well as horse feed, but do not include provi- 
sions or lodging at the village for members of party and 
guide, for which an additional charge of $2.00 a day is 
made. For parties of 3 to 6 persons an extra guide is 
needed at an additional cost of $5.00 a day, besides his 
board and lodging at the Indian Village. 

A three-day trip may be made by way of Bright Angel 
and Boucher Trails, a total distance of 52 miles. The 
route follows Bright Angel Trail to the Plateau, which is 
followed westward for 30 miles along the Tonto Trail. 
Camp is made on Monument Creek the first night and 
on Hermit Creek the second night. The return is made 

498 



€lje oBranti Canon 

by Boucher Trail to the rim of the Canon. The rate for 
this trip is $12.00 a day for one person and $6.00 extra 
for each additional person; guide and camp equipment 
are included, but provisions are extra. 

A trip by way of Bright Angel and Grand View Trails, 
a distance of 55 miles, may be made in three days. This 
route follows Bright Angel Trail to the Plateau, which is 
followed eastward for 30 miles along the Tonto Trail. 
The return is made by way of Grand View Trail to the 
rim and then to El Tovar. The rates for this trip are 
$12.00 a day for one person and $6.00 a day extra for each 
additional person; guide and camp equipment are fur- 
nished, but provisions are extra. 

An easy two-day trip is the one to Desert View, 32 
miles east of El Tovar, by wagon. On this trip Grand 
View Point is passed and camp is made on the rim at 
Desert View 16 miles beyond Grand View Point. The 
rate is $10.00 a day for one person, and $5.00 a day extra 
for each additional person; guide and camp equipment 
are furnished, but provisions are extra. 

Clothing 

No special equipment is required unless the tourist 
expects to indulge in tramping or camping. For the one- 
day trips ordinary clothing will suffice, as women's 
divided skirts, men's overalls, linen duster, and straw 
hats may be rented at El Tovar Hotel. If much tramping 
is to be done appropriate shoes should be worn. 



Lassen Volcanic National Park 

Location: Northern California. Area: 124 square miles. 
Season: June i to September 30. Address of Forest Super- 
visor temporarily in charge of Park: Red Bluff, California, 
October 16 to May 14; Mineral, California, May 15 to 
October 15. 

Railroad Connections 
The best routes to Lassen Park region are from Red 
Bluff on the San Francisco-Portland line of the Southern 
Pacific, from Fernley, Nevada, on the San Francisco- 
Ogden line of the Southern, and from Keddie, on the main 
line of the Western Pacific. Stopovers may be obtained 
on through tickets reading through these places. The best 
stopping-place is Drakesbad, which is near the base of 
Lassen Peak. The round-trip fare from San Francisco to 
Red Bluff is $6.00; from that point the route is by auto- 
mobile stage, 72 miles, to Drakesbad; stage fare, $15.00 
for round trip. From Fernley, Nevada, a side trip to 
Westwood via Susanville may be obtained for $6.85 for 
the round trip. From Westwood the route is by automo- 
bile stage 35 miles to Drakesbad; stage fare, $6.00 for 
round trip. Westwood may also be reached from San 
Francisco; round trip, $20.00. There is a through sleeper 
from San Francisco to Susanville, where direct connec- 
tion is made with train to Westwood. Keddie, on the 
Western Pacific, is 71 miles from Drakesbad; there is no 
regular stage line. Round-trip fare from San Francisco 
to Keddie is $12.25. The Park may be reached also 
from Redding, on the San Francisco-Portland line of the 
Southern Pacific, but there are no hotels or camps on 
this route within less than 15 miles of the Park; this 
route is feasible only for campers. 

500 



Haifiefcn l^olcanic i^ational ^atk 

Automobile Routes 

The Park is reached from Red Bluff on the main high- 
way between San Francisco and Portland. Red Bluff is 
260 miles from San Francisco and 72 miles from the Park. 

Hotels and Camps 
The only stopping-place within the Park is at Drakes- 
bad, where there is a camp. Rates are $3.00 to $3.50 a 
day. South of the Park accommodations may be secured 
at Lee's Camp at Chester, 12 miles from Lassen Peak, 70 
miles from Red Bluff, 27 miles from Westwood; rates 
$2.00 a day. 

Trips 

There are no scheduled trips in this Park; there has not 
been time to develop this class of service. Guides and 
horses may be obtained at Drakesbad for $2.50 a day. 
The most important trip is to the volcano of Lassen Peak, 
7 miles from Drakesbad. Another interesting trip is to 
Cinder Cone, Snag Lake, and Twin Lake; distance, 22 
miles for the round trip. 

Other trips are as follows: Boiling Lake, i mile; Devil's 
Kitchen, I5 miles; Bumpas Hell, 6 miles. 

Fishing 

There is good trout-fishing in Grassy and Snag Lakes. 
The fishing is much better in the region south of the Park, 
especially in Feather River, near Chester; Warner Creek; 
Mill Creek, near Morgan Springs; Battle Creek, near 
Mineral; and in Lake Alamanor. The flies generally used 
are royal coachman, brown and gray hackle, dusty miller, 
salmon fly, queen of the waters, black gnat, and professor. 

A fishing license is required for all persons over 18 years 
of age. The fee for resident of California is $1.00; for non- 
residents, $3.00. Licenses may be obtained from the 
Supervisor at Red Bluff. 



Hawaii National Park 

Location: On Hawaii and Maui islands, Territory of 
Hawaii. Area : 1 18 square miles. Season : Throughout the 
year. 

The Hawaii National Park consists of two tracts on 
the island of Hawaii and one tract on the island of Maui. 
The tracts on the island of Hawaii include the volcano of 
Mauna Loa and the active crater of Kilauea on the slope 
of Mauna Loa. The tract on the island of Maui includes 
the extinct volcanic crater of Haleakala. 

Mauna Loa and the crater of Kilauea are reached from 
Hilo, a town of 10,000 inhabitants, which is 192 miles by 
sea from Honolulu. 

The crater of Kilauea is at an altitude of 4000 feet and 
is easily reached by automobile. As Kilauea is more 
active and more accessible than Mauna Loa, it is visited 
more frequently than the peak, which has an altitude 
of 13,675 feet. The distance from Hilo to Kilauea is 31 
miles. 

There is steamship service twice a week between Hilo 
and Honolulu. Tourists may leave Honolulu Wednesday 
morning, arrive at Hilo Thursday morning, and reach 
Kilauea by noon. The return may be made to Hilo early 
Friday morning in time to catch the steamer, which leaves 
at 10 o'clock, and which arrives in Honolulu early Satur- 
day morning. The steamer also leaves Honolulu Saturday 
afternoon and reaches Hilo Sunday morning. It leaves 
Hilo on the return trip Monday afternoon and reaches 
Honolulu Tuesday morning. 

The Interisland Steamship Company sells coupon 
tickets from Honolulu to Kilauea and return, including 

502 



J^atDaii i^attonal ^arft 

automobile trip and hotel accommodations at the follow- 
ing rates: — 

3 days $28.50 and $30.00 

6 days $37-80 and $45.00 

9 days $49.00 and $58.00 

There are 2 hotels at the crater: Volcano House, $6.00 
a day; and Crater Hotel, $3.50 a day. 

Another route is by steamer from Honolulu to Kailua 
or Honuapo, thence by automobile to the crater, loi miles 
from Kailua; 36 miles from Honuapo. The return to 
Honolulu may be made by the same route or by way of 
Hilo. Three-day trips cost from $34.50 to $36.00. 

The trip to the summit of Mauna Loa is made from the 
crater of Kilauea and requires 4 days. It is necessary to 
make special arrangements for this trip. Full information 
may be obtained at the ofifice of the Hawaii Promotion 
Committee in Honolulu. As the summit is nearly 14,000 
feet above the sea and the trip is made on horseback and 
on foot, it should be undertaken only by those physically 
qualified. 

The extinct volcano of Haleakala (elevation 10,032 
feet) is best reached from Lahaina, on the island of Maui ; 
time from Honolulu to Lahaina, 6 hours; distance 75 
miles; fare $5.00 in each direction. From Lahaina the 
route is by automobile to Wailuku and Olinda, thence on 
horseback to the summit. The cost of the trip is as fol- 
lows : — 

Automobile, Lahaina to Wailuku in each direction: — 

1 passenger $4.00 

2 or 3 passengers, for party 5.00 

4 to 6 passengers, each person 1.50 

Automobile, Wailuku to Olinda, round trip: — 

I to 3 passengers, for party 20.00 

4 to 6 passengers, for party 25.00 

Horses, guide and blankets: — 

Each horse 7.50 

Guide 5.00 

Blankets at Rest House i.oo 



4Bmht to tje i^ational ^arfe^ 

Time required to make the ascent and descent is as 
follows : — 

Hours 

Auto from Lahaina to Wailuku i i 

Ascent by automobile from Wailuku to Olinda 3I 

Ascent on horseback from Olinda to Rest House at 

Summit 3^ 

Descent on horseback from Rest House to Olinda . 3 

Descent by automobile from Olinda to Wailuku. . . 2 

Auto from Wailuku to Lahaina if 

As the crater of Haleakala is seen at its finest at sunrise 
and sunset, the best way to view it is to leave Wailuku 
in the afternoon, spend the night at the summit, and re- 
turn the next morning. The automobile waits over night 
at Olinda for persons wishing to spend the night on the 
summit. 

The hotels at Wailuku are the Maui, $3.00 to $4.00; the 
Wailuku, $2.50; and the Grand, $3.50 and $4.00. At 
Lahaina the only hotel is the Pioneer, $2.75. 

The visitor to the crater of Kilauea will need only an 
overcoat in addition to the light summer clothing worn at 
sea-level throughout the year. For trips to the summits 
of Mauna Loa and Haleakala, the visitor should wear 
woolen underwear and other warm clothing. 

There is no fishing in the Hawaii National Park, but 
there is excellent surf and deep-sea fishing along the coast 
of the islands. 

Honolulu is reached in 6 days from San Francisco; fare, 
$65.00 and upward in each direction. 



Mount McKinley National Park 

This Park is in south-central Alaska and includes 
Mount McKinley, the highest mountain in North Amer- 
ica, and the surrounding country. The Park was created 
by the act of February 26, 1917, and as the region is 
unsettled and undeveloped, there are no roads or accom- 
modations for tourists. The Park may be reached by a 
150-mile trip by means of a pack-train from Nenana or 
Fairbanks in the interior of Alaska. Guides and outfits 
can probably be secured from the Northern Commercial 
Company, Fairbanks, Alaska. The government railroad 
will pass near the eastern border of the Park, but the 
road will probably not be operated to a point near the 
Park until the summer of 1919. 



Hot Springs of Arkansas 

Location: Central Arkansas. Area: 911 acres. Season: 
Throughout the year. Address of Supervisor : Hot Springs, 
Arkansas. 

Hot Springs is reached by the Chicago, Rock Island & 
Pacific, the St. Louis, Iron Mountain & Southern, and the 
Memphis, Dallas & Gulf Railroads. There is through 
sleeping-car service from St. Louis and Memphis. 

The Reservation is immediately adjacent to the city of 
Hot Springs, which has a population of about 14,000 and 
which is a municipality and is not under government 
control- 

The only hotel on the Reservation is the Arlington, 
where the rates are $5.00 a day and upward. There are 
hotels of every class in the city, the principal ones being 
the Eastman, Majestic, Moody, and Como. 

Some of the bathhouses are on the Reservation and 
some are in the city, but the water is the same in all, the 
range in prices being due to the equipments and accom- 
modations provided. The rates are as follows: — 

Scale of Rates for Baths at Different Bathhouses receiving 
Water from the Hot Springs Reservation 

Bathhouse Single baths Course of 21 baths 

Arlington $0.65 $12.00 

Fordyce 0.65 12.00 

Buckstaff 0.60 I i.oo 

Maurice 0.60 1 1 .00 

Imperial 0.55 10.00 

Eastman 0.55 10.00 

Majestic 0.55 10.00 

Hale 0.50 9.00 

506 



J^ot ^pringjGf of ^rftattjGfa^ 

Bathhouse Single baths Course of 21 baths 

Moody 0.50 9.00 

St. Joseph's Infirmary 0.50 9.00 

Superior 0.50 9.00 

Lamar '. 0.45 8.00 

Rector 0.45 8.00 

Rockafellow 0.45 8.00 

Ozark Sanatorium 0.45 8.00 

Magnesia 0.40 7.00 

Ozark 0.40 7.00 

Alhambra 0.40 7.00 

Pythian Sanatorium 

(colored) 0.25 4.00 

Visitors are advised not to take the baths without the 
advice of a physician, as the waters are not beneficial in 
all diseases and in some are harmful. Visitors should not 
patronize doctors who are recommended by unknown or 
irresponsible persons, as in the past there has been consid- 
erable soliciting on behalf of certain physicians. A list of 
registered doctors may be consulted at the office of the 
Supervisor of the Reservation. 

Golf and horseback riding are the favorite forms of 
exercise. Visitors from the North should bear in mind 
that spring is a little earlier in this region and that fall 
is a little later. 



Minor National Parks 



CASA GRANDE RUIN 

Location: Southern Arizona. Area: 480 acres. Season: 
Throughout the year. Address of Custodian: Florence, 
Arizona. 

This Reservation is situated near the left bank of the 
Gila River about 12 miles from Florence, Arizona. It can 
be conveniently reached by carriage either from the town 
of Florence or from Casa Grande Station on the Southern 
Pacific Railroad. The route to the ruin via Florence is 
slightly shorter than that from Casa Grande Station, 
enabling one to make the visit and return in a single day. 
There is a hotel and a livery stable in each town, but the 
visitor should provide for his own refreshment at the ruin. 

WIND CAVE NATIONAL PARK 

Location : Southwestern South Dakota. Area : 16 square 
miles. Season: Throughout the year. Address of super- 
visor: Wind Cave, via Hot Springs, South Dakota. 

This Park is about 12 miles from Hot Springs, South 
Dakota, on a branch line of the Chicago & Northwestern 
and the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railroads. The 
fare from Hot Springs to the Cave and return is $2.50. 

There are no hotels or camps in the Park, but ample 
accommodations may be obtained at the town of Hot 
Springs. The only attractions of the Reservation are the 
Cave and the buffalo in the game preserve. Visitors are 
permitted to enter the Cave at 9 a.m. and 2 p.m. A charge 

508 



^imt l^ational ^ath^ 

of 50 cents is made for entrance to the Cave, the trip being 
made under the supervision of guides provided by the 
Government. 



PLATT NATIONAL PARK 

Location: Southern Oklahoma. Area: 848 acres. Sea- 
son: Throughout the year. Address of Supervisor: Sul- 
phur, Oklahoma. 

This Park is immediately adjacent to Sulphur, a city 
of 3600 inhabitants, on branch lines of the Atchison, 
Topeka & Santa F^ and the St. Louis & San Francisco 
Railroads. There are no hotels in the Park, but accommo- 
dations may be obtained in Sulphur. There are no scenic 
features to attract the visitors from a distance. 

SULLY'S HILL PARK 

Location: Northeastern North Dakota. Area: 780 
acres. Address of Supervisor: FortTotten Indian School, 
Devil's Lake, North Dakota. 

This Park may be reached from Devil's Lake, about 10 
miles distant, on the Great Northern Railway. There are 
no hotels or camps within the Reservation and the tract is 
entirely undeveloped. There are no scenic attractions. 



National Monuments 

The National Monuments are generally not devel- 
oped and there are no regular camps or established trans- 
portation rates. The name of the custodian is given if one 
has been appointed. If there is no custodian the railroad 
agents can generally give information regarding persons 
who will furnish transportation. 

Bandelier, New Mexico, Area: 22,075 acres. The 
Reservation is 18 miles northwest of Santa F6 and is 
near Buckman Station on the Atchison, Topeka & Santa 
F6 Railroad. The Custodian is the Supervisor of the 
Santa Fe National Forest, Santa F6, New Mexico. 

Big Hole, Montana. Area: 5 acres. Nearest railroad 
station is Divide, Montana, thence by stage 45 miles to 
Gibbon, Montana, which is near the Reservation. 

Cabrillo, California. Area: 21,910 square feet. On 
Point Loma, within the military reservation at Fort 
Rosecrans, which is 6 miles from San Diego and which 
may be reached by electric railway. 

Capulin Mountain, New Mexico. Area: 680 acres. 
Six miles southwest of Folsom on the Colorado & South- 
ern Railway and 3 miles north of Dedham on the Atchi- 
son, Topeka & Santa F6 Railway. The Custodian is Mrs. 
H. W. Jack, Folsom, New Mexico. 

Chaco Canon, New Mexico. Area: 20,629 acres. 
Sixty-five miles south of Farmington on the Denver & 
Rio Grande Railroad, 75 miles north of Gallup, and 65 



miles north of Thoreau, on the Atchison, Topeka & Santa 
F6 Railway. 

Colorado, Colorado. Area: 13,883 acres. Near 
Grand Junction, Colorado, on the Denver & Rio Grande 
Railroad. The Custodian is John Otto, Fruita, Colorado. 

Devil Postpile, California. Area: 800 acres. May 
be reached from Laws on the Southern Pacific Railroad, 
then by stage to Mammoth, and by saddle-horse to the 
Monument. The Custodian is the Supervisor of Sierra 
National Forest, Northfork, California. 

Devil's Tower, Wyoming. Area: 11 52 acres. Near 
Tower, Wyoming, which is 32 miles from Moorcroft on 
the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railroad. 

Dinosaur, Utah. Area: 80 acres. May be reached 
from Mack, Colorado, on the Denver & Rio Grande Rail- 
road, then 65 miles by railroad to Watson, then 72 miles 
via Vernal by automobile. 

El Morro, New Mexico. Area: 160 acres. Forty miles 
from Thoreau and 55 miles from Gallup on the Atchison, 
Topeka & Santa Fe Railway. 

Gila, New Mexico. Area: 160 acres. Fifty miles 
northwest of Silver City, New Mexico, on the Atchison, 
Topeka & Santa Fe Railway. The Custodian is the 
Forest Supervisor, Gila National Forest, Silver City, New 
Mexico. 

Gran Quivira, New Mexico. Area: 160 acres. 
Twenty-four miles from Mountain Air, New Mexico, on 
the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway. The Custo- 
dian is the Supervisor of the Manzano National Forest, 
Albuquerque, New Mexico. 



aBuibe to tjje i^attonal ^arfeief 

Grand Canon. See pages 495-499. 

Jewel Cave, South Dakota. Area: 1280 acres. 
Twelve miles from Custer, South Dakota, on the Chicago, 
Burlington & Quincy Railway. The Custodian is the 
Forest Supervisor, Harney National Forest, Custer, 
South Dakota. 

Lewis and Clark Cavern, Montana. Area: 160 
acres. Near Cavern, Montana, on the Northern Pacific 
Railway. The Cavern is closed, as there is no resident cus- 
todian. It is under the supervision of the Chief of Field 
Division, U.S. Land Office, Helena, Montana. 

Montezuma Castle, Arizona. Area: 160 acres. Fifty- 
four miles from Prescott, on the Santa Fe, Prescott & 
Phoenix Railroad. 

Mount Olympus, Washington. Area: 299,370 acres. 
The southern boundary of the Monument is about 60 
miles from Olympia, Washington, which may be reached 
by railroad, steamer, or automobile from Seattle or 
Tacoma. The Supervisor of the Olympic National Forest, 
Olympia, Washington, will furnish information regarding 
best methods of reaching the many points of interest. 

Muir Woods, California. Area : 295 acres. Eighteen 
miles from San Francisco. It is reached by way of the 
Northwestern Pacific Railroad to Mill Valley, thence by 
the Mill Valley & Muir Woods Railway. The Custodian 
is Andrew Lind ; address care of Chief of Field Division, 
U.S. Land Office, San Francisco, California. 

Mukuntuweap, Utah. Area: 15,840 acres. Nearest 
railroad station is Lund on San Pedro, Los Angeles & 
Salt Lake Railroad. From Lund an auto stage runs to 
Hurricane, 85 miles. At that place horses may be obtained 
for the trip to the Reservation, which is 26 miles distant. 



I^ational Sr^onument^ 

Natural Bridges, Utah. Area: 2740 acres. The best 
route is from Thompson's Station, Utah, on the Denver 
& Rio Grande Railroad, then 95 miles by stage to Monti- 
cello. At this point guides and equipment may be hired 
for the trip (60 miles) to the bridges. Another route is 
from Dolores, Colorado, on the Denver & Rio Grande 
Railroad, then 125 miles via McElmo, Colorado, and 
Aneth and Bluff, Utah, 

Navajo, Arizona. Area: 360 acres. Nearest railroad 
stations are Flagstaff and Gallup, on the Atchison, 
Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad. Both these places are about 
125 miles from Kayenta, which is 24 miles from the ruins. 
The Custodian is John Wetherill, Kayenta, Arizona. 

Old Kasaan, Alaska. Area: 38 acres. May be reached 
by motor-boat from Ketchikan, Alaska. The Custodian 
is the Forest Supervisor, Tongass National Forest, 
Ketchikan, Alaska. 

Oregon Caves, Oregon. Area: 480 acres. Thirty-six 
miles from Grant's Pass, Oregon, on the Southern Pacific 
Railway. The Custodian is the Forest Supervisor, Sis- 
kiyou National Forest, Grant's Pass, Oregon. 

Papago Saguaro, Arizona. Area: 2050 acres. Nine 
miles from Phoenix, Arizona, on Santa Fe, Prescott & 
Phoenix Railroad. 

Petrified Forest, Arizona. Area: 25,625 acres. 
There are three acres of petrified logs, 2|, 6, and 13 miles 
south of Adamana on the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe 
Railway. The Custodian is Chester B. Campbell, Ada- 
mana, Arizona. 

Pinnacles, California. Area: 2080 acres. Twelve 
miles from Soledad and 14 miles from Gonzales, on the 
Southern Pacific Railway. 



<Duitie to tlje |15ational ^ath^ 

Rainbow Bridge, Utah. Area: i6o acres. Sixty-five 
miles from Natural Bridges National Monument. 

Shoshone Cavern, Wyoming. Area: 210 acres. Four 
miles from Cody, Wyoming, on the Chicago, Burlington 
& Quincy Railway. 

SiEUR DE Monts, Maine. Area: 5000 acres. Two miles 
from Bar Harbor, Maine. Custodian, George B. Dorr, 
Bar Harbor, Maine. 

Sitka, Alaska. Area: 57 acres. One mile from steam- 
boat landing at Sitka. 

ToNTO, Arizona. Area: 640 acres. Forty miles from 
Globe, Arizona, on the Arizona Eastern Railway. The 
Custodian is the Forest Supervisor, Tonto National 
Forest, Roosevelt, Arizona. 

TuMACACORi, Arizona. Area: 10 acres. Seventeen 
miles north of Nogales, Arizona. 

Walnut Canon, Arizona. Area: 960 acres. Eight 
miles southeast of Flagstaff, Arizona. The Custodian is 
the Forest Supervisor, Coconino National Forest, Flag- 
staff, Arizona. 

Wheeler, Colorado. Area: 300 acres. Seventeen 
miles from Wagon Wheel Gap, on the Denver & Rio 
Grande Railroad. The Custodian is the Forest Super- 
visor Rio Grande National Forest, Monte Vista. Colorado. 



Canadian Parks 



ROCKY MOUNTAINS PARK 

Location: Western Alberta. Area: 1800 square miles. 
Season: June to October. Address of Superintendent: 
Banff, Alberta. 

Rocky Mountains Park is along the main line of the 
Canadian Pacific Railway and has two gateways — Banff 
and Laggan (Lake Louise). Excursion rate, round trip, 
Chicago to Banff, $60.30; to Lake Louise, $63.10. 

At Banff the principal hotel is the Banff Springs Hotel, 
1 1 miles from the station, operated by the Canadian 
Pacific Railway; rates, $4.00 and upward. Other hotels 
in the town of Banff are the Alberta, $2.50 and upward; 
the Alpine, $1.50, European plan; Grand View Villa, 
$2.50 and upward; Hot Springs Hotel $2.00 and upward; 
Mount Royal Hotel, $2.50 and upward; King Edward 
Hotel, $2.50 and upward. 

The popular carriage trips from Banff are given below. 
The lower rate is for 2 or 3 persons, the higher rate for 
4 or 5 persons : — 

To Lake Minnewanka and return: 4-hour trip, $6.75 and 

$8.75; 9-hour trip, $9.00 and $15.00. 
To Loop, Cave and Basin and Sun Dance Canon and 

return: 4-hour trip, $6.75 and $8,75. 
To Tunnel Mountain, Buffalo Park, Cave and Basin and 

return: 4-hour trip, $6.75 and $8.75. 

Guides may be obtained for $4.00 a day. 
At Lake Louise the only hotel is the Chateau Lake 
Louise, 25 miles from Laggan Station, operated by the 



oBuitie to tjje i^ational ^ath^ 

Canadian Pacific Railway Company; rates ^5.00 and 
upward. There is a small camp at Moraine Lake, 9 miles 
from Lake Louise. 

The principal short trips from Lake Louise are by car- 
riage to Moraine Lake, $2.50; or on horseback to Lakes 
Mirror and Agnes, $1.50; Mount St. Piran, $3.00; Vic- 
toria Glacier, $2.00; Saddleback, $2.50; Saddleback, Sheol 
Valley, and Lower Paradise Valley, $3.00; Ptarmigan 
Lake, $3. Guides may be obtained for $4.00 a day and 
pack-horses for $2.50 a day. 

As there are no permanent camps in remote portions of 
this Park, arrangements must be made for pack-animals 
and equipment. The Brewster Transport Company, 
Banff, Alberta, will furnish complete outfits at the fol- 
lowing rates : $1 5.00 a day for one person ; $25.00 a day for 
a party of two; $10.00 a day for each person for a party 
of three or more. This charge includes guide, cook, 
horses, tents, provisions, but no blankets. 

There is said to be good fishing for whitefish and cut- 
throat, lake, brook, Dolly Varden, and bull trout. 

YOHO PARK 

Location: Western Alberta and eastern British Colum- 
bia. Area: 560 square miles. Season: June to October. 
Address of Superintendent: Field, British Columbia. 

YoHO Park is reached from Field, on the main line of 
the Canadian Pacific Railway. Excursion rate, round 
trip from Chicago, $64.70. The following hotels are 
operated by the railroad company: Mount Stephen 
House, at Field, $4.00 and upward; Emerald Lake 
Chalet, 7 miles from Field, $4.00 and upward ; and Takak- 
kaw Falls camp, 11 miles from Field, $4.00 a day. 

The popular short trips from Field are listed below. 
The lower rate is for 2 or 3 persons; the higher rate for 4 
or 5 persons: — 

516 



Canatiian $)arh^ 



To Emerald Lake and return: 4-hour trip, $6.00 and $7.50; 

9-hour trip, $9.00 and $15.00. 
To Emerald Lake, one way: $3.00 and $5.00. 
To Ottertail Bridge and return: $5.25 and $7.50. 
To Takakkaw Falls and return: $9.00 and $15.00. 
To Natural Bridge and return: $2.25 and $3.75 for first 

hour, $1.50 and $2.50 for second hour, and $0.75 and 

$1.25 for subsequent hours. 
To Fossil Beds and return: horseback, $2.00 for each 

person. 

Persons desiring to camp in this Park may obtain out- 
fits from the Brewster Transport Company, Field, Brit- 
ish Columbia, at the same rates given for Rocky Moun- 
tains Park. 



GLACIER PARK 

Location: Eastern British Columbia. Area: 468 square 
miles. Season: June to October. Address of Superintend- 
ent: Field, British Columbia. 

Glacier Park is on the main line of the Canadian 
Pacific Railway and is reached from Glacier Station. 
Excursion fare, round trip from Chicago, $64.70. The 
Glacier House, $4.00 a day and upward, operated by the 
railroad company, is at the station. The principal short 
trips, made on horseback are as follows: — 

Great Glacier and return $1.00 

Asulkan Glacier and return 2.00 

Marion Lake and return 1.50 

Mount Abbot and return 3.00 

Caves of Nakimu and return 3.00 

Horses may be obtained for $3.00 a day, and guides for 
horseback trips may be employed for $4.00 a day. Swiss 
guides for mountain-climbing and glacier trips may be 
obtained for $5.00 a day. The guides provide rope and 
ice axes, but the tourist must be equipped with stout 
shoes and proper clothing. Persons desiring to camp in 



<Bvdtit to tt\t i^ational ^ath^ 

this park may obtain outfits from S. H. Baker, Glacier, 
B.C.; the rates are about the same as those quoted for 
camping trips in the Rocky Mountains Park. 

JASPER PARK 

Location: Western Alberta. Area: 4400 square miles. 
Season: June to October. Address of Superintendent: 
Jasper Park, Alberta. 

Jasper Park may be reached from Jasper Station on 
the Grand Trunk Pacific and Canadian Northern Rail- 
ways. Excursion fare from Chicago, round trip, $65.30. 

The only established stopping-place is Jasper Park 
Camp, Lake Beau Vert, 2 miles from Jasper Park Sta- 
tion. Rates, $3.00 a day or $18.00 a week. The regular 
trips are to Pyramid Lake, $7.00 for 4 persons; Maligne 
Canon, $7.00 for 4 persons; Mount Fitzhugh, $5.00; and 
Goat Mountain, $5.00. Saddle-horses may be obtained 
for $3.00 a day. Guides cost $5.00 a day. Special arrange- 
ments for extended camping trips may be made with 
Brewster and Moore, Otto Brothers, and Donald Phillips, 
Jasper, Alberta. 

REVELSTOKE PARK 

Location: Eastern British Columbia. Area: 95 square 
miles. Season: June to October. Address of Superintend- 
ent: Field, British Columbia. 

Revelstoke Park is on the main line of the Canadian 
Pacific Railway and is reached from Revelstoke Station. 
There is a hotel at the station operated by the Canadian 
Pacific Railway (rates, $3.00 a day and upward), and 
there are other hotels in the town of Revelstoke. 

The principal short trip is by automobile to the sum- 
mit of Mount Revelstoke, 15 miles in each direction. 

518 



Canadian J^arfejf 

Automobiles holding four persons may be hired for $3.50 
per hour. There are no hotels or permanent camps in the 
Park; for extended trips arrangements must be made with 
outfitters in Revelstoke. 



WATERTON LAKES PARK 

Location: Southern Alberta, immediately north of the 
United States Glacier Park. Area: 423 square miles. 
Season: June to October. Address of Superintendent: 
Waterton Mills, Alberta. 

Waterton Lakes Village is 60 miles from McLeod 
and 40 miles from Pincher Creek on the Crowsnest Di- 
vision of the Canadian Pacific Railway. There is an 
automobile road from both places, but the longer route 
from McLeod is said to be the better. There is also a 
wagon road from the northern boundary of the United 
States Glacier Park to Waterton Lakes Village. The 
only stopping-place at Waterton Lakes Village is Haz- 
zard's Hotel and Camp; rates $2.00 a day. 

BUFFALO PARK 

Location: Eastern Alberta. Area: 160 square miles. 
Season: June to September. Address of superintendent: 
Wainwright, Alberta. 

Buffalo Park is immediately south of Wainwright, on 
the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway. There are two hotels 
in Wainwright — The Wainwright and The Park — with 
rates of $2.50 a day. This Park has no special scenic 
attraction, its chief feature of interest being the herd of 
2400 buffalo. About 75 buffalo are kept in a paddock 
about two miles from the town, but it is said that a large 
number may be seen in a day's drive. 



<Suitie to tlje j^ational ^atk$ 

ELK ISLAND PARK 

Location: Eastern Alberta. Area: i6 square miles. 
Address of superintendent: Lament, Alberta. 

Elk Island Park is 3 miles south of Lamont on the 
Canadian Pacific Railway. The nearest hotel is in the 
town of Lamont. The Park is strictly an animal reserva- 
tion and has no scenic features. 

ST. LAWRENCE ISLANDS PARK 

Location: Southern Ontario. Area: 140 acres. Season: 
May to October. 

St. Lawrence Islands Park is located among the 
Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence River and consists 
of a number of small islands. It is reached from Clayton, 
New York, on the New York Central Railroad, and from 
Kingston, Ontario, on the Grand Trunk Railway. Some 
islands on the New York side of the international bound- 
ary are owned by the State of New York and maintained 
as public reservations. The principal hotels in the Thou- 
sand Islands are at Clayton, Thousand Island Park, and 
Alexandria Bay, all in New York. 

FORT HOWE PARK 

Location : Adjacent to the city of St. John, New Bruns- 
wick. Area: 19 acres. Season: Throughout the year. 

Fort Howe Park was created solely for historic pur- 
poses and contains an old fort, memorials of the Canadian 
Loyalists, and relics and exhibits of the old French 
regime. 



INDEX 



INDEX 



Adams, James Capen, 301. 
Altitude, not harmful, 33i. 333, 349. 
Altyn Lake, 149, 150. 
Amethyst Mountain, petrified for- 
ests in, 45-50. 
Andrews Glacier, 180, 187. 
Anemone, Western, 124. 
Antelope, 306. 
Arapahoe Peak, 330. 
Artist Point, Yosemite, 452. 
Aspen, 290. 
Asulkan Glacier, 412. 
Athabasca River, 252. 
Augusta Bridge, 237. 
Avalanche Basin, 149. 
Avalanche Lake, 149. 

Ballou, Sidney, quoted, 228. 

Bandelier National Monument, 
411. 510. 

Banff, 254, 255. 

Basket Dome, 69, 452. 

Bear, black, color and habits, 304; 
a bluffer, 304, 305. 

Bear, grizzly, 341; a tame grizzly, 
301, 302 ; characteristics, 302, 303; 
food, 303; hibernation, 304; color, 
305. 

Bears, disposition spoiled by im- 
proper feeding, 315. 

Beaver, 307, 308. 

Beaver Lake, Alberta, 413. 

Bertha Lake, 413. 

Bidwell, Gen. John, no. 

Bierstadt, Albert, 187. 

Bierstadt Moraine, 187 

Big Hole Battlefield, 411, 510. 

Big Thompson River, 1 76 

Big Tree (Sequoia gigantea), 77, 78, 
99, 100; size, 104, IDS ; groves, 
104, 105; age, 105, 106; flowering 
and fruiting, 106; habit, 106, 107; 
bark, 107; roots, 107; durability, 
107-09; the most impressive liv- 



ing object, 109; area not dimin- 
ishing, 109; of ancient stock, no; 
discovery, no; habitat, no, in; 
effect onlpersons, 1 12-15; thoughts 
suggested by, 286; table of dimen- 
sions in Mariposa Grove, 451; 
dimensions in Sequoia Park, 457. 

Big Tuolumne Canon, 93. 

Bighorn. See Sheep, mountain. 

Bighorn Mountains, 404. 

Birds, of Rocky Mountain Na- 
tional Park, 183, 184; of the 
Grand Cafion, 197; of the Olym- 
pic Mountains, 234, 235; of the 
National Parks, 309-14; mountain 
migration, 309, 310; mating for 
life, 310, 311 ; appear to desire hu- 
man society, 313, 314. 

Bison, 243, 261, 441, S19. 

Blackfeet Glacier, 151, 157, 484, 485. 

Blackfeet Indians, 15, 17-21, 157- 
59. 

Boling, Capt. John, 94. 

Bow River Valley, 412. 

Bowman Lake, 149. 

Brackenridge, Henry M., 22. 

Bradbury, John, 22, 23. 

Brett, Col. L. M., 58. 

Bridal Veil Falls, 68, 85, 453. 

Bridger, James, 24. 

Bright Angel Cafion, 193. 

Bright Angel Point, 193. 

Bryant, William, 21. 

Bryce, James (Lord Bryce), 122. 

Buckwheat, wild, 124. 

Buffalo, 243, 261, 441, S19. 

Buffalo Park, 261, 413, 319. 

Bunsen Peak, 440. 

Burbank, Luther, quoted, 372, 373. 

Cabrillo National Monument, 411, 

510. 
Cameron Falls, 413. 
Camp-fire, the, 293, 294. 



523 



SFntieje 



Canada, Dominion Parks of, de- 
scription, 251-62; creation and 
administration, 262, 263; guide 
to, 515-20. 

Canoe and the Saddle, The, quoted, 
120, 121, 128, 358, 359. 

Caflon de Chelly, 404. 

Cafion of the Little Colorado, 193. 

Cape Royal, 193. 

Capulin National Monument, 409, 
Sio. 

Carbon Glacier, 133. 

Caroline Bridge, 237. 

Carter, T. H., 159, 160. 

Casa Grande Ruin Reservation, 
description, 245, 246; guide to, 
S08. 

Cataract Caflon, 205. 

Cathedral Lake, 92. 

Cathedral Peak, 92. 

Cathedral Rocks, 452. 

Cathedral Spires, 68, 452. 

Chaco Cafion, 405, 510. 

Chasm Lake, 186. 

Chittenden, Gen. Hiram M., 23, 
37, 57; quoted, 8. 

Chouteau, Pierre, 21. 

Cinder Cone, 216-18. 

Clach-na-coodin Range, 412. 

Claggett, William H., s, 6. 

Clark, Galen, 78, 96-98, 105. 

Clark, WiUiam, 21, 22. 

Clements, W. M., 159. 

Cleveland Mountain, 150. 

Cliff Canon, 173. 

Cliff dwellers, of Mesa Verde, 163- 
74- 

Clothing, for rainy days, 33s; for 
use in the Parks, 431. 

Clouds' Rest, 68, 452. 

Cole, Cornelius, 6. 

Colorado National Monument, 408, 
Sii- 

Colorado River, and the Grand 
Cafion, 199-209. 

Colter, John, 12-24. 

Colter's Hell, 23. 

Columbia Rock, 452. 

Columbia's Crest, 13s, 467. 

Continental Divide, 186, 187, 436. 

Cook, C. W., 25. 

Cook Forest, 268. 



Crater Lake, first impressions, 137, 
138; origin, 138, 139; description, 
140-45; discovery, 14s, 146; trout- 
fishing, 146. 

Crater Lake National Park, 137- 
47; founding, 146; location and 
area, 146; proposed additions, 147; 
in table, 401; guide to, 470-74. 

Cut Bank Pass, 158. 

Cut Bank River, 156. 

Dana Mountain, 65, 92. 

Daniels, Mark, 278, 279. 

Dawes, Henry L., 6. 

Death Valley, 102. 

Deer Mountain, 188. 

Desert, The, by John C. Van Dyke, 

quoted, 209, 210. 
Devil Postpile, 410, 511. 
Devil's Lake, 244, 245. 
Devil's, Tower, 405, 511. 
Diamond Lake, 147. 
Diller, Joseph S., quoted, 142, 143, 

219. 
Dinosaur National Monument, 

408, SII. 
Dipper, or water-ouzel, 313. 
Doane, Lieut. Gustavus C, 25, 26. 
Dock, white, 124. 
Doty, James, 158. 
Dunes, in Indiana, 268, 404. 

Eagle Peak, Mt. Rainier, 464. 

Eagle Peak, Yosemite, 88, 452. 

Eagle Point, 137. 

Echo Mountain, 180. 

El Capitan, 68, 452. 

El Morro National Monument, 405, 

511. 
El Tovar, 193. 
Electric Peak, 357, 440, 441. 
Electrical storm, 324-26. 
Eliot, Charles W., 223; quoted, 370. 
Elk, 53, 305. 306. 
Elk, Roosevelt, 234. 
Elk Island Park, 261, 413, 520. 
Emerald Lake, 257. 
Emmons Glacier, 130, 131. 
Equipment, 431, 432. 
Erosion, in the Grand Cafion, 194, 

198-206. 
E^tes Park, 176. 



524 



^nhtx 



Eureka, Cal., 268. 
Everts, Truman C, 58-64. 

Fall River automobile road, 187. 

Falls of the Yellowstone, 38, 41, 42. 

Fern Lake, 187. 

Fewkes, Dr. Jesse Walter, 171; 
quoted, 167, 168, 268. 

Fiddle Creek Cafion, 253. 

Field, B. C, 258. 

Firehole, 30. 

Firehole River, 436. 

Fisher, Walter L., 279, 280. 

Fishing, 441-43. 4S4. 4S8, 469, 
474. 486, 487, 493, 494, SOI, S04, 
S16. 

Flat-Top Mountain, 180, 187. 

Flowers, of Yellowstone Park, 52; of 
Yosemite Park, 79-83; of Mt. Rai- 
nier, 122-30, 348; of Rocky Moun- 
tain Park, 181, 182, 347; of the 
Olympic Mts., 234; of Rocky 
Mountains Park, Canada, 256; 
of mountain-tops, 347, 348- 

Folding Mountain, 253. 

Folsom, David E., 25. 

Forest, the, spirit of, 282-95. See 
also Trees. 

Forest Caiion, 187. 

Forest reservations, 272-76. 

Forests, petrified, 45-50. 

Fort Howe Park, 262, 413, 520. 

Fort Manuel, 14, 15, 16, 20. 

Fort Totten, 244. 

Fossils, 258, 412. 

Franklin Pass, loi. 

Fuller, Miss Fay, 121. 

Fusillade Mountain, 155. 

Garfield Grove, 457, 
Gem Lake, 180, 188. 
General Grant National Park, 99, 

100, 105; in table, 401; guide to, 

459. 
Geysers, of Yellowstone Park, 26, 

28-35, 438, 439. 
Ghost River, 255. 
Giant Forest, 105. 
Giant Forest Grove, 457. 
Gibbs Mountain, 65. 
Gila Cliff Dwellings, 409, 511. 
Glaciation, 351-55; in Yosemite 



Park, 70-76; in Sequoia Park, 

102, 103; at Crater Lake, 141, 142; 

in Glacier National Park, 152. 
Glacier Gorge, 186. 
Glacier National Park, lakes, 148- 

50, 154, 155; mountains, 150, 151, 

155. 156; glaciers, 151, 152, 155, 
156; game, 152, 153; place-names, 
153; wild flowers, 153; streams, 

156, 157; history, 157-60; motor 
road to Waterton Lakes Park, 
259; in table, 402; guide to, 475- 
87. 

Glacier Park, Canada, 412, 517. 

Glacier Point, Yosemite, 68, 88, 
452. 

Glaciers, of Mt. Rainier, 117, 118, 
130-34; of Glacier National Park, 
151. 152, IS5. 156, 484. 485; of 
Rocky Mountain Park, 180; of 
Mt. McKinley, 249; speed, 352; 
formation, 352, 353. 

Glen Cafion, 191, 197. 

Goat, mountain, 306, 307. 

Going-to-the-Sun Mountain, 155, 
358. 

Gould Mountain, 150. 

Gran Quivira, 407, 511. 

Grand Cafion National Monument, 
410. 

Grand Cafion of the Colorado, pro- 
posed National Park, 190, 191; 
first impressions, 191, 192; views, 
192, 193; description, 193-95; 
formation, 194, 198-206; climate, 
195, 196; plant life, 196, 197; ani- 
mal life, 197; history, 206-08; 
books about, 209; a land of form 
and of color, 210; guide to, 495-99. 

Grand Cafion of the Yellowstone, 
38, 39, 41. 439, 440. 

Grand Lake, 188. 

Grand Mesa, 404. 

Grand River, 188. 

Grand Teton, 44, 266. 

Grand View, 193. 

Gray, Asa, quoted, 79. 

Gray's Peak, 330. 

Greeley, Horace, 112. 

Grinnell, George Bird, and Yellow- 
stone Park, 57; and Glacier Park, 
157-60; quoted, 159, 160. 



525 



S^ntier 



Grinnell Glacier, 150, 151. 
Grinnell Lake, 150, 153. 
Grinnell Mountain, 150. 
Grizzly Giant, 77, 78, 104, 105, 

451. 
Grosvenor, Gilbert H., quoted, 100, 

lOI. 

Hague's Peak, 179. 

Haleakala, 222, 227, 228, S03, S04. 

Half Dome, 68, 452. 

Hall, Harvey Monroe, and Carlotta 
Case Hall, A Yosemite Flora, 
quoted, 82, 83. 

Hallet Glacier, 180, 188. 

Harris, Capt. Moses, 57. 

Hauser, Samuel T., 26. 

Hawaii National Park, location 
and area, 221, 222; volcanoes, 
221-29; forests and birds, 228, 
229; views, 229; origin, 229; in 
table, 402; guide to, 502-04. 

Hayden, Dr. Ferdinand V., and the 
founding of Yellowstone Park, 
5, 6; quoted, 29, 178, 179. 

Hayden Valley, 51. 

Heart Lake, 36. 

Heather, 125. 

Hedges, Cornelius, 4, S, 26; quoted, 
26. 

Hellebore, 124. 

Hetch-Hetchy Valley, 66, 74, 86, 
88; description, 89; history, 95, 
96. 

Hill, L. W., 160. 

Hillman, John W., 146. 

Hilo, 225. 

Honolulu, 222. 

Hopi Point, 193. 

Hot Springs Reservation, descrip- 
tion, 246, 247; in table, 400; 
guide to, S06, 507. 

Hunt, T. E., quoted, 240. 

Hunting-contest, a, 297, 298. 

Husted. S. N., 328. 

Iceberg Lake, 149. 
Illecillewaet Glacier, 412. 
lUilouette Cafion, 69. 
lUilouette Falls, 86, 453. 
Indian Henry's Hunting Grounds, 
123, 464. 



Indians, and the Yellowstone re- 
gion, II, 12; Colter's adventures 
with, IS, 17-21; legend of Yo- 
semite, 93, 94; in Glacier National 
Park, 157-59; tradition about 
Cinder Cone, 217; legend of 
woman, 378. 

Indian-turnip, 20. 

Irving, Washington, 23. 

Ives, Lieut., quoted, 206. 

Jagger, Thomas A., quoted, 227 

James, Gen. Thomas, 23. 

Jamez Plateau, 267. 

Jasper, Alberta, 253. 

Jasper Park, description, 252, 253; 

in table, 413; guide to, 518. 
Jefferson River, 18-20. 
Jepson, W. L., 106. 
Jewel Cave, 410, 512. 
Johnson, Robert Underwood, 94. 

Kachima Bridge, 237. 

Kautz Glacier, 134. 

Kaweah River, 102. 

Kent, William, 219, 406. 

Kern River Caiion, loi, 

Kickinghorse River, 258. 

Kilauea, 222-24, S02, 504. 

King, Clarence, 71, 102; his Moun- 
taineering in the Sierra Nevada, 
103. 

King's River Cafion, loi. 

Kolb, Ellsworth L., 209. 

Koloma, 89. 

Kulshan, 403. 

La Charette, 23. 
Laggan, 255. 
Lake Bidwell, 217. 
Lake Eva, 412. 
Lake Louise, 256, 515, 516. 
Lake MacArthur, 412. 
Lake McDonald, 149. 
Lake Minnewanka, 255. 
Lake O'Hara, 412. 
Lake Tenaya, 76. 
Lakes, crater, 142. 
Lakes in the Clouds, 412. 
Lamar River, 46. 
Lamon, John, 95. 
Lamont, Alberta, 261. 



526 



^Fntiejc 



Lane, Franklin K., 278. 

Langford, Nathaniel P., 5, 6, 26, 56. 

Lassen Peak, 211-16. 

Lassen Volcanic National Park, lo- 
cation, area, and altitude, 211, 
212; origin, 213, 219; description, 
212-17; Indian tradition, 217; 
springs and streams, 217; lakes, 
217, 218; trees, flowers, and an- 
imcJ life, 218, 219; attractions, 
219, 220; in table, 402; guide to, 
500, SOI. 

Lava, 38, 39. 139-41. 204. 205, 213, 
214, 216, 218; a huge field of, 
212, 213; in Hawaii National 
Park, 223-29. 

Lava Falls, 204, 205. 

Leaning Tower, 452. 

Lefroy Glacier, 412. 

Lewis, Judge Robert E., decision 
quoted, 277, 278. 

Lewis and Clark Cavern, 408, 512. 

Lewis Lake, 36. 

Liberty Cap, Mt. Rainier, 199. 

Liberty Cap, Yosemite, 452. 

Lily, Washington, 81. 

Lincoln, Abraham, quoted, 112. 

Lincoln National Park or Reserva- 
tion, 411. 

Lion, mountain, 309. 

Lisa, Manuel, 13, 14. 

Little Bridge, 237, 238. 

Little Kootenai Creek, 156. 

Little Yosemite Valley, 69. 73. 74. 

Little Zion River Region, 239. 

Loch Vale, 186. 

Lodore Cafion, 205. 

Logging Creek, 156. 

Long'sPeak, 178-81, 356, 3S7;above 
a snowstorm on, 318, 319; in a 
high wind, 320-22; moonlight 
and sunrise on, 328-31; timber- 
line on, 340, 341. 

Los Molinos, 214. 

Lost Creek, 214, 215. 

Lost in the wilderness, 58-64, 337, 
338. 

Luray Caverns, 268. 

McClurg. Mrs. Gilbert, 168. 
McDermott Lake, 149. 
McFarland, J. Horace, 276. 



Maligna Lake. 253. 

Mammoth Cave, 268. 

Mammoth Hot Springs, 30, 31. 436. 

Maple Creek Antelope Reserve, 413. 

Marble Cafion, 191, 205. 

Marion Lake, 412. 

Mariposa Grove, 77, 78; sizes of Big 
Trees, 451. 

Marshall, Robert B., 279. 

Mather, Stephen T., 96, 278, 279. 

Matthes, Francois E., 71; quoted, 
120, 465-68. 

Mauna Loa, 222, 224-27, 502-04. 

Meadow Mountain, 179. 

Menard, Pierre, 21. 

Merced Grove, 77. 

Merced River, 66, 67, 70. 

Mertensia, 124. 

Mesa Verde National Park, interest 
of, 161, 162; location, area, and 
altitude, 162; view from, 162; an- 
cient inhabitants, 163-67; ruins, 
167-74; establishment. 168; his- 
tory, 169-71; in table, 401; guide 
to, 488-90. 

Miette Springs, 253. 

Mills Moraine, 186. 

Mineral King, 101. 

Mirror Lake, 93. 

Mono Desert, 92. 

Mono Lake, 92. 

Monroe, Hugh, 158. 

Montezuma Castle, 405, 512. 

Moonlight, 326, 327; ascent of 
Long's Peak by, 328, 329. 

Morning-Glory Spring, 30. 

Motorists, advice to, 432. 

Mt. Adams, 235. 

Mt. Assiniboine, 412. 

Mt. Baker, I2i, 403. 

Mt. Cleveland, 358. 

Mt. Cougar, 233. 

Mt. Dana, 6s, 92. 

Mt. Evans, 403. 

Mt. Everts, 63, 441. 

Mt. Gibbs, 6s. 

Mt. Haleakala, 222, 227, 228, 503, 
504. 

Mt. Hoffman, 88, 91, 357- 

Mt. Hood, 404. 

Mt. Jackson, 151, 155. 

Mt. Lady Washington, 186. 



527 



3Fntiejc 



Mt. Lyell, 6s. 3S7. 

Mt. McGregor, 403. 

Mt. McKinley, 248-50. 

Mount McKinley National Park, 
description, 248-50; in table, 402; 
guide to, 505. 

Mt. Mauna Lea, 222, 224-27. 502- 
04. 

Mt. Mazama, 137-42. 

Mt. Meany, 233. 

Mt. Meeker, 178, 179. 

Mt. Mitchell, 403. 

Mt. Olympus, 232. 

Mount Olympus National Monu- 
ment, description, 230-35; in 
table, 411; guide to, 512. 

Mt. Rainier, size and altitude, 116; 
a volcano, 117. 119; a source of 
inspiration, 120; discovery and ex- 
ploration, 120-22; timber-line, 
129; glaciers, 130-34; snowfall, 

134, 135; streams and erosion, 

135, 136; climbing, 356, 465-68. 
Mount Rainier National Park, area, 

116; additions suggested, 117, 
266; roads and trails, 117, 118; 
creation, 122; wild-flower garden, 
122-30, 348; trees, 129, 130; ani- 
mal life, 130; in table, 401; guide 
to, 460-69. See also Mt. Rainier. 

Mt. Revelstoke, 260. 

Mt. Robson, 413. 

Mt. St. Elias, 266. 

Mt. St. Helens, 235. 

Mt. Seattle, 233. 

Mt. Shasta, 404. 

Mt. Sheridan. 357. 

Mt. Sir Donald, 412. 

Mt. Stephen, 258. 

Mt. Tahoma. See Mt. Rainier. 

Mt. Temple, 412. 

Mt. Thielson, 147. 

Mt. Washburn, 357- 

Mt. Watkins, 69. 

Mt. Whitney, 100. loi, 357. 3S8. 

Mountaineers Club, 232. 

Mountains, higher regions of, 340- 
51; high peaks, 356-59- 

Muir, John, 71, 87. 90. 103, 276, 
313. 387; quoted. 42, 43, so, 69, 
70, 89, 97, no, 127, 190, 362; 
his story of an Englishman at 



Yosemite, 94, 95; and the Hetch- 
Hetchy fight, 95 ; on the Big Tree, 
108-10; sketch of, 360-65. 

Muir Grove, 457. 

Muir National Park, proposed, 103. 

Muir Woods, 406, 512. 

Mukuntuweap Cafion, 239-41. 

Mukuntuweap National Monument, 
description, 239-41 ; in table, 406; 
guide to, 512. 

Muldrow Glacier, 249. 

Mummy Lake, 174. 

Mummy Range, 187. 

Nakimu marble caves, 412. 

National Academy of Science, 277. 

National Monument, Mount Olym- 
pus, 230-35 ;Mukuntuweap, 239- 
41; Natural Bridges, 236-39; 
Rainbow Bridge, 236-39. See 
also table and data, 405-11, 510- 
14. 

National Monuments, administra- 
tion, 280, 281; table of, 405-11; 
data concerning the several, 510- 
14. 

National Park, Casa Grande Ruin, 
24s, 246, 402, 508; Crater Lake, 
137-47, 401. 470-74; General 
Grant, 99, 100, 105, 401, 459; 
Glacier, 148-60, 402, 475-87; Ha- 
waii, 221-29, 402, S02-04; Hot 
Springs, 246, 247, 400. 506, 507; 
Lcissen Volcanic, 211-20, 402, 
500, 501; Mesa Verde, 161-74, 

401, 488-90; Mount McKinley, 
248-50, 402, 505; Mount Rainier, 
116-36, 401, 460-69; Piatt, 248, 

402, 509; Rocky Mountain, 175- 
89, 402, 491-94; Sequoia, 99-115, 
401, 455-58; Sully's Hill, 244, 
245, 402, 509; Wind Cave, 242- 
44, 402, 508; Yellowstone, 3-62, 

400, 433-43; Yosemite, 65-98, 

401, 444-54- 

National Park Mountain, 4. 

National Parks, origin, 3, 4; needs, 
264; advantages, 264, 265; new 
Parks proposed, 266-69; develop- 
ment needed, 269-72; as distin- 
guished from National Forests, 
272-77; importance of separate 



528 



5Fntiejtr 



management, 277. 278; adminis- 
trative history, 278-80; and the 
National Monuments, 280, 281; 
as wild-life sanctuaries, 296-316; 
physical, mental, and moral bene- 
fits from, 333, 334, 338; immortal, 
339; educational value, 366-77; 
our need of, 378-87 ; table of, 400- 
02; table of proposed Parks, 403, 
404. 

Natural Bridge, Yoho Park, 257. 

Natural Bridges National Monu- 
ment, description, 236-39; in 
table, 407; guide to, 513. 

Navajo National Monument, 408, 
513- 

Nevada Falls, 86, 433. 

Niagara Falls, 404. 

Nisqually Glacier, 118, 131-33. 

Nolen, John, 276; quoted, 276. 

Nonnezoshie Bridge, 238. 

Nordenskjold, Baron, 169. 

North Carolina, 268. 

North Dome, 69, 452. 

North Specimen Mountain, 326. 

Nyack River, 157. 

Obsidian Cliff, 436. 

Odel, Maud Gardner, poem, 374- 

Odessa Lake, 187. 

Ohanapecosh Valley, 465. 

Old Inspiration Point, 432. 

Old Kasaan National Monument, 
513. 

Olmsted, Frederic Law, quoted, 
274. 275. 

Olympic Mountains, 230-36. 

Olympic National Monument. See 
Mount Olympus National Monu- 
ment. 

Olympic National Park, proposed, 
230, 236. 

Oregon Caves, 410, 513. 

Ottertail Range, 412. 

Ottertail Valley, 412. 

Owachomo Bridge, 237, 238. 

Ozark Mountains, 403. 

" Paint- Pots," in Yellowstone Park, 

42. 
Pajarito clifiF cities, 403. 
Panorama Point, 452. 



Papago Saguaro National Monu- 
ment, 408, 513. 

Paradise Glacier, 133. 

Paradise Park, 123, 131, 464-66- 

Parsons, Edward T., 90. 

Parsons Memorial Lodge, 90-93 

Peak Success, 119. 

Perdrix Mountain, 253. 

Peterson, William, 25. 

Petrified Forest Nationed Monu- 
ment, 408, 513. 

Phantom Ship, 145. 

Pierre's Hole, 15. 

Pike's Peak, 330, 403. 

Pine, lodge-pole, 52. 

Pine, sugar, 78. 

Pine, yellow, 78, 79. 

Pinnacles National Monument, 
406, 513. 

Piute Indians, legend, 378. 

Piatt National Park, 248, 402, 
509. 

Point Sublime, 193. 

Pollock, W. C, 159- 

Pomeroy, Samuel Clarke, 6. 

Porcupine, 307. 

Potts, John, 17. 

Poudre Lakes, 325. 

Powell, Major John W,, 206. 

President Range, 412. 

Prismatic Lake, 30. 

Profile Cliff, 452. 

Ptarmigan, 311, 312. 

Puget Sound, 235. 

Pulpit Rock, Vosemite, 452. 

Punch- Bowl Falls, 253. 

Pyramid Rock, 134. 

Raebum, D. L., 249. 

Railroad routes and fares, 425-31. 

Rainbow Bridge, 238. 

Rainbow Bridge National Monu- 
ment, description, 236-39; in 
table, 407; guide to, 514. 

Rainier, Peter, 120. 

Rainstorm, joy in a, 323, 324. 

Raker, John E., 219. 

Ramparts Ridge, 464. 

Red Eagle Mountain, 153. 

Red Eagle River, 136. 

Redwood Meadow, loi. 

Reservation, Casa Grande Ruia, 



529 



^nhtx 



345, 246, 402, S08; Hot Springs, 
246, 247, 400, 506, S07. 

Revelstoke Park, description, 260; 
in table, 412; guide to, S18, 519. 

Rhyolite, 38, 39. 140. 

Ribbon Falls, 86, 453. 

Roche Miette, 253. 

Rocky Mountain Nationail Park, 
character, 175-77; area and alti- 
tude, 177; mountains, 178-80; 
glaciation,i8o.i8i; lakes. 180, 187, 
188; wild flowers, 181, 182; animal 
life, 183, 184; trees, 184; timber- 
line, 184, 185; points of interest, 
186-89; addition in 1917, 188 and 
note; a hunting-contest in, 297, 
298; bighorn in, 307; flowers on 
highest peaks, 347 ; regions above 
timber-line in, 348; in table, 402; 
guide to, 491-94. 

Rocky Mountain Wonderland, The, 
quoted, 273, 345- 

Rocky Mountains Park, Alberta, 
description, 254-56; in tables, 
412; guide to, 515, 516. 

Rogers Pass, 412. 

Roosevelt Project, 404. 

Royal Arches, 69. 

St. Anthony, Idaho, 15. 

St. John, N.B., 262. 

St. Lawrence Islands Park, 261,413, 

520. 

St. Mary's Lake, 154, ISS- 

St. Vrain River, 323. 

San Juan Mountains, 404, 488. 

Savage, Major James D., 94. 

Sawtooth Mountains, 403. 

Scenery, value of, 277, 278. 

Screech, Joseph, 95. 

Schultz, James Willard, 157. iS8. 

Selkirk Mountains, 412. 

Sentinel Dome, 453. 

Sentinel Falls, 88. 

Sentinel Rock, 68. 

Sequoia. See Big Tree. 

Sequoia National Park, area and 

topography, 99-103; the Big Trees 

of, 104-is, 282, 286; in table, 

401; guide to, 455-58. 
Sheep, mountain, 188, 189, 306, 

307; a case of tameness, 300. 



Sheldon, Charles, 250. 

Sherman, Mrs. John D., 276, 377. 

Ship Rock, 162. 

Shoshone Cavern, 406, 514. 

Shoshone Lake, 36. 

Siberian Plateau, 10 1. 

Sierra Club, 94. 

Sierra Madre Mountains, 404. 

Sierra Nevada. See Yosemite Na- 
tional Park and Sequoia National 
Park. 

Sieur de Monts Nationjd Monu- 
ment, 409, 514. 

Sipapu Bridge, 237. 

Sitka National Monument, 407, 
514- 

Smith, Miss Edna, quoted, 327-31. 

Snag Lake, 214. 

Snow, banners of, 322. 

Snowpeak Avenue, 257. 

Snow-plant, 81. 

Snowstorm, climbing above a, 317- 
19. 

Soda Springs, 90-93. 

Solitaire, 291, 292, 311. 

Specimen Mountain, 179. 188, 189. 

Specimen Ridge, Yellowstone Park, 
441. 

Sperry Glacier, 151, 485. 

Sprague's Glacier, 180, 187. 

Spray Park, 123. 

Springs, hot, of Yellowstone Park, 
28-32, 39, 439; of Lassen Volcanic 
Park, 217, 219. 

Stanford Point, 453. 

Steele, William G., 146. 

Stevens, Gen. Hazard, 121. 

Stevenson, Robert Louis, quoted, 
362, 381, 382. 

Stewart, George W., 100. 

Stimpson, Harry L., 157. 

Stone, Julius P., 207; quoted, 207- 
09. 

Stump Lake, 216, 218. 

Sully's Hill, 245. 

Sully's Hill National Park, descrip- 
tion, 244, 24s; guide to, 509. 

Sulphur Mountain, 254. 

Summerland, 123. 

Swift Current Pass, 154- 

Sylvan Lake, 44. 

Sylvan Pass, 44. 



530 



^nhex 



Tahoma, Indian name for Mt. 
Rainier, 120. 

Tahoma Glaciers, 134. 

Tahosa Valley, i86. 

Takakkaw Fall, 257. 

Tehipitee Dome, 102. 

Tenaya Canon, 69. 

Terraces, in Yellowstone Park, 438. 

Teton Mountains, 44. 

Thousand Islands, 261, 262, 520. 

Three Brothers, 68. 

Three Forks, 17, 21. 

Thurston, L. A., 229. 

Timber-line, 340-45; in Rocky 
Mountain National Park, 184, 
185; the regions above, 345-51. 

Tinkham, A. W., 158. 

Tioga Pass, 92. 

Tioga Road, 90, 96. 

Tonto National Monument, 409, 
514- 

Torrey's Peak, 330. 

Trail, the, 388-93. 

Trail Ridge, 180, 187. 

Training of the Human Plant, Tke, 
quoted, 372, 373- 

Trees, of Yellowstone Park, 51, 52; 
of Yosemite Park, 76-79; of Se- 
quoia Park, 104-15; of Mt. 
Rainier, 129, 130; of Crater Lake 
Park, 145; of the Olympic Mts., 
233, 234. See also Forest and 
Timber-line. 

Triple Divide Peak, 156. 

Trumbull, Walter, 5. 

Tueeulala Falls, 86, 89. 

Tumacacori National Monument, 
406, S14. 

Tuolumne Canon, 93. 

Tuolumne Grove, 77- 

Tuolumne Meadows, 88, 90, 92. 

Tuolumne River, 66. 88, 93- 

Tuolumne Valley, 90. 

Twin Lakes, B.C., 412. 

Twin Lakes, Yellowstone Park, 436. 

Twin Sister Peaks, 178, 188. 

Two Ocean Glacier, 156. 

Two Ocean Pass, 36, 155. 

Two Ocean Pond, 36, 37- 



Upper Geyser Basin, 438. 
Usnea, 128. 



Valerian, 124. 

Valley of the Ten Peaks, 412. 

Vcincouver, George, 120, 230. 

Van Dyke, John C, quoted, 209, 
210. 

Van Trump, P. B., 121. 

Van Trump Park, 464. 

Vernal Falls, 85, 86, 453. 

Victoria Glacier, 412. 

Villard, Henry, 121, 122. 

Volcanoes, in Yellowstone Park, 38, 
39. 45. 46, 50; Mt. Rainier a 
sleeping volcano, 117, 126, 127; 
Mt. Mazama, 138-44; Lassen 
Peak, 211-15; Cinder Cone, 216- 
18; Kilauea, 222-24; Mauna Loa, 
222, 224-27; Haleakala, 222, 227, 
228. 

Vulture Peak, 156. 

Wainwright, Alberta, 261. 
Walhalla Plateau, 192, 193. 
Walker, Joseph R., 94. 
Walnut Caiion, 411, 514. 
Wapama Falls, 86, 89. 
Warner Caiicn, 214. 
Washburn, Gen. Henry D., 26. 
Washbum-Doane Expedition, 25, 

26, 58. 
Washington Column, 69, 453. 
Water-ouzel, or dipper, 313. 
Waterton Lake, 149. 
Waterton Lakes Park, description, 

258-60; in table, 413; guide to. 

519. 
Waterton River, 259. 
Wawona tree, 78. 
Waxwings, 312, 313. 
Wheeler National Monument, 410. 

514. 
White, Stewart Edward, quoted, 

273. 274- 
Wickersham, James, 250. 
Widow's Tears Falls, 453. 
Wilbur Mountain, 149. 
Wild Basin, 186. 
Wind, pressure on waterfalls, 87; 

a high wind on Long's Peak, 320- 

22. 
Wind Cave, 242, 243. 
Wind Cave National Park, descrip- 
tion, 242-44; guide to, 508. 



531 



^nhtx 



Winthrop. Theodore, X20; quoted, 

120, 121, 128, 358, 359- 
Winthrop Glacier, 133. 
Wizard Island, 144. I4S. 
Wood, petrified, 4S-S0. 
Woodcraft, suggestions, 335-38. 

Yellowhead Pass, 253. 

Yellowstone Cafion, 38, 39, 41. 

Yellowstone Lake, 36, 40. 

Yellowstone National Park, origin, 
3-8; discoveries and explorations 
of the region, 10-27; Indian names 
for region, 11; geysers and springs, 
28-35, 39; lakes, 36; streams, 36, 
37; greatest attractions, 38; ge- 
ology, 38-50; John Muir on, 42, 
43; petrified forests, 45-50; area, 
51; trees, 51, 52; wild flowers, 52; 
animal life. 53; entrances, 53; 
road-system, 54; administrative 
history, 54-58; experience of 
Truman C. Everts, 58-64; as a 
wild-life sanctuary, 305 ; improper 



feeding of bears in, 315; ship- 
ments of animals from, 315; act 
of dedication, 397-99; in table, 
400; guide to, 433-43- 

Yellowstone River, 38, 41. 

Yoho Park, description, 256-58; in 
table, 412; guide to, 516, 517. 

Yoho Valley, 257. 

Yosemite Creek, 86, 87. 

Yosemite Falls, 69, 85-87, 453. 

Yosemite Flora, A, by H. M. and C. 
C. Hall, quoted, 82, 83. 

Yosemite National Park, area and 
topography, 65; general features, 
65-70; geology, 70-76; trees, 76- 
79; shrubs, 79; wild flowers, 79- 
83; waterfalls, 83-88; what to see 
in, 88-93; history, 93-98; in table, 
401; guide to, 444-54. 

Yosemite Point, 453. 

Yosemite Valley, 67-73. 75, 88, 
94. 95. 97. 100. 

Yosemite Village, 96. 



Abe A)tacr!eli^r fttiif 

CAMBRIDGE . .MASSACHUSETTS 

U . S . A 



31^77-1 



